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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

LFW 09 – James Long S/S 2010 – Environmental Disaster Chic

Somerset House, Menswear, Wednesday 23rd September 2009

Written by sally mumby-croft

DSC02220

David Koma blasted Hot Chip ‘do it do it do it now’ as the models strutted along the catwalk attired in the outcome of the Jetson family crossed with Barbarella. The tight body conscious dress hems (a trend still occurring on the majority of catwalks) were adorned with black tubular piping and Deep Space Nine style jewellery. This was fun fun party fashion.

The solar system number was a particular favourite of mine, about it prescription as a careful balancing act was required in the wearing of the piece. The use of rainbow coloured jewels screamed –definitely a positive point- Fred Butler Fred Butler

davidkoma3

The second half of the collection was the interpretation of the designer’s inspiration, approved the painter and sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle.

davidkoma7

davidkoma4

These dramatic dresses covered in bold primary colour block certainly grabbed the attention. The variety of materials embellishing the garments added a sense of tactically, whilst retaining a definite Star Trek alien ‘babe’ theme. 

davidkoma6

Sci-fi was a strong running theme at London Fashion Week,  with fembots seen at Blow Presents and  Lousie Goldin S/S collections 2010.

The strapless pink nipple dress was an interpretation of Niki di Saint Phalle’s voluptuous abstract sculptures celebrating decadent femininity. A successful application of the artist’s bold lines and block colours presenting the viewer with an abstract version of the colour block trend reinterpreting the artist’s designs onto the shape of the 60′s (the cut of the dresses celebrating the cuts of Mary Quant and Biba).

pinknippledress

The use of bright colours embellished hips and shoulders blocking and revealing parts of the body at the same time.

DavidKoma1

 davidkomacutout

The entire collection continued Koma’s interest in the female silhouette with the tight-tight dresses exaggerating the (fairly non-existant) curves of the models. The show concluded with overt references to the designer’s A/W 09 collection with the exaggerated curving in the construction of the dresses.

All Photographs by Sabrina Morrison
DSC02220

David Koma blasted Hot Chip ‘do it do it do it now’ as the models strutted along the catwalk attired in the outcome of the Jetson family crossed with Barbarella. The tight body conscious dress hems (a trend still occurring on the majority of catwalks) were adorned with black tubular piping and Deep Space Nine style jewellery. This was fun fun party fashion.

The solar system number was a particular favourite of mine, pilule as a careful balancing act was required in the wearing of the piece. The use of rainbow coloured jewels screamed –definitely a positive point- Fred Butler Fred Butler

davidkoma3

The second half of the collection was the interpretation of the designer’s inspiration, for sale the painter and sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle.

davidkoma7

davidkoma4

These dramatic dresses covered in bold primary colour block certainly grabbed the attention. The variety of materials embellishing the garments added a sense of tactically, malady whilst retaining a definite Star Trek alien ‘babe’ theme. 

davidkoma6

Sci-fi was a strong running theme at London Fashion Week,  with fembots seen at Blow Presents and  Lousie Goldin S/S collections 2010.

The strapless pink nipple dress was an interpretation of Niki di Saint Phalle’s voluptuous abstract sculptures celebrating decadent femininity. A successful application of the artist’s bold lines and block colours presenting the viewer with an abstract version of the colour block trend reinterpreting the artist’s designs onto the shape of the 60′s (the cut of the dresses celebrating the cuts of Mary Quant and Biba).

pinknippledress

The use of bright colours embellished hips and shoulders blocking and revealing parts of the body at the same time.

DavidKoma1

 davidkomacutout

The entire collection continued Koma’s interest in the female silhouette with the tight-tight dresses exaggerating the (fairly non-existant) curves of the models. The show concluded with overt references to the designer’s A/W 09 collection with the exaggerated curving in the construction of the dresses.

All Photographs by Sabrina Morrison
BBC 5

Do you know any other 15-19 year olds showing their very first collection at London Fashion Week? Through BBC Blast, clinic ten young creatives got an exceptional opportunity to do just this. Here’s your first-hand report from the front row.

Dolly Rockers

The atmosphere of intrigue that surrounded the empty catwalk was met with an explosive performance from the Dolly Rockers, information pills the latest girlband trio to hit London, singing their new single, ‘Boys Will Be Boys’. This was followed by an exciting range of asymmetric layering, soft lines, and neutral block colours alongside splashes of graphic florals.

BBC 6

Our first impressions of this debut collection were that the standard was primarily high. The fabrics were simple but composed in an innovative conduct, with manipulated jersey combined with cutaway denim and drapes of neon. Plus, it would appear that these budding young fashionistas have created looks that are bang-on trend, seen at some of the big Somerset House shows such as Topshop Unique. Impressive, considering the team had a timescale of just 5-6 months in which, according to project manager (Aindrea Emelife), they had to fit in meetings around the other commitments of a typical teen.

BBC 2

Many cameras remained firmly focused on the intricately designed shoes, from flowery wedges to ‘bling’ brogues, kindly supplied by Irregular Choice. The main aura of the collection was definitely urban meets ‘Best of British’. Union jack bags and ‘LONDON’ waistcoats, apparently influenced by ‘the vintage feel of Brick Lane,’ featured alongside loose-fitting sportswear updated with customised t-shirts (a personal favourite of ours). Menswear comprised of this look plus a tongue-in-cheek pre-school element including dungarees!

BBC 1

The collection’s manifesto stated ‘Conformity does not interest us’. Something which was clearly noticeable in the individuality and pioneering nature of man meets woman, youth meets maturity. Furthermore, the collection definitely encouraged playful experimentation on the conventional silhouette. We took preference to the more signature garments, such as the floor length hooded dress and the navy polka dot harem trousers. The clothes were original and, as suggested by Satu Fox, it is really fresh and inspiring to see a designer’s work at the potential start of their career.

BBC 3

This special evening concluded with a drinks reception, where the audience had a chance to congratulate team members on their impressive creations. Although there has been criticism, it cannot be denied that blogging has become a vital component of fashion journalism – and it was good to see many fresh, young writers in amongst the crowds.

BBC 4

The 1.Wo/Man team’s future in fashion already looks set to continue as there will be a diffusion line of graphic tees online shortly in aid of Children In Need. They are bound to be a sell-out at just ten pounds each. Attention will certainly be drawn to the collection as the BBC is airing a small feature film in the coming months, showing the team’s journey from interviews right up to the catwalk.

We’re pondering on the likelihood of seeing some of the 1.Wo/Man team at Somerset House in the near future. Besides, they’re already half way there!
BBC 5

Do you know any other 15-19 year olds showing their very first collection at London Fashion Week? Through BBC Blast, viagra ten young creatives got an exceptional opportunity to do just this. Here’s your first-hand report from the front row.

Dolly Rockers

The atmosphere of intrigue that surrounded the empty catwalk was met with an explosive performance from the Dolly Rockers, this site the latest girlband trio to hit London, singing their new single, ‘Boys Will Be Boys’. This was followed by an exciting range of asymmetric layering, soft lines, and neutral block colours alongside splashes of graphic florals.

BBC 6

Our first impressions of this debut collection were that the standard was primarily high. The fabrics were simple but composed in an innovative conduct, with manipulated jersey combined with cutaway denim and drapes of neon. Plus, it would appear that these budding young fashionistas have created looks that are bang-on trend, seen at some of the big Somerset House shows such as Topshop Unique. Impressive, considering the team had a timescale of just 5-6 months in which, according to project manager (Aindrea Emelife), they had to fit in meetings around the other commitments of a typical teen.

BBC 2

Many cameras remained firmly focused on the intricately designed shoes, from flowery wedges to ‘bling’ brogues, kindly supplied by Irregular Choice. The main aura of the collection was definitely urban meets ‘Best of British’. Union jack bags and ‘LONDON’ waistcoats, apparently influenced by ‘the vintage feel of Brick Lane,’ featured alongside loose-fitting sportswear updated with customised t-shirts (a personal favourite of ours). Menswear comprised of this look plus a tongue-in-cheek pre-school element including dungarees!

BBC 1

The collection’s manifesto stated ‘Conformity does not interest us’. Something which was clearly noticeable in the individuality and pioneering nature of man meets woman, youth meets maturity. Furthermore, the collection definitely encouraged playful experimentation on the conventional silhouette. We took preference to the more signature garments, such as the floor length hooded dress and the navy polka dot harem trousers. The clothes were original and, as suggested by Satu Fox, it is really fresh and inspiring to see a designer’s work at the potential start of their career.

BBC 3

This special evening concluded with a drinks reception, where the audience had a chance to congratulate team members on their impressive creations. Although there has been criticism, it cannot be denied that blogging has become a vital component of fashion journalism – and it was good to see many fresh, young writers in amongst the crowds.

BBC 4

The 1.Wo/Man team’s future in fashion already looks set to continue as there will be a diffusion line of graphic tees online shortly in aid of Children In Need. They are bound to be a sell-out at just ten pounds each. Attention will certainly be drawn to the collection as the BBC is airing a small feature film in the coming months, showing the team’s journey from interviews right up to the catwalk.

We’re pondering on the likelihood of seeing some of the 1.Wo/Man team at Somerset House in the near future. Besides, they’re already half way there!

Follow BBC Blast to find out more about this exciting initiative.
jameslong1

James Long presented us with the Leather action Man or Man as pilot. The collection represented an idea about what one (or Man) would wear if caught in an apocalypse. The catwalk swarmed with clothes with the ability to function as protection against environmental disaster whilst remaining damn sexy.

jameslong6

The bug eyed sunglasses containing super reflective black lenses were reminiscent of second world war pilots or ‘hero’s as described in JG Ballard’s Empire of the Sun.

jameslong8

This was a collection for the fine cut man saving the world in style.
jamelong4

jameslong3

Big knits adorned the body creating an incredibly textured collection whilst contrasting the plastic reflective-protective gear covering the legs. These trousers were easily adaptable for the utilitarian action man ready for a chance to drive planes and motorbikes, physician in order to save the world.

jamesong9

The glinting sunglasses conjured images of another Ballard story “The Drowned World” where Man’s wars have wrought massive environmental damage upon the surface (sound familiar? Sadly this story was written in the 70’s and still we destroy the planet) of the earth. Man has retreated into the arctic and a few scientists have been left to monitor the flooded cities, capsule the ruined sunlight glares across their military issue sunglasses.

jameslong10

This is James Long’s Man. Scouring the earth in environmental clothing and pounding the ground in DM’s through restrictive territory. Eventually if we carry on emitting the way we are now, we’ll need more designers to design functional protective garments to protect us from the harsh environmental disasters we have created.

jameslong7

The December sees the Copenhagen Climate Change conference (or most likely a discussion) Ideally these summits need to stop being discussions and plans for the future and start being proactive. Today’s Guardian talks about Redd (Reducing Emissions from Deforestation and Degradation), a procedure that will not be enforced -if Copenhagen agree- until 2013. This is far too late. Deforestation needs to stop now or soon we will inhabit the drowned world, a place where cities lie at the bottom of giant lakes.

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