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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Exhibition Review – part 2

Jenny Robins made her way round the LFW Exhibitions with sketchbook in hand, and free coffee in other hand.

Written by Jenny Robins

This is part two of my exhibition sketch blog, for part one, including very very very exciting shoes, click here

jenny robins - amelias magazine - lfwss13 -  sketch blog - christopher raeburn

Having made my way round the main showrooms on the ground floor of Somerset House, I crossed the corridor into New Gen territory. I had to sketch one of Christopher Raeburn’s plush owls, having heard about how each of his collections feature a creature made from offcuts and left over materials. He has a bunch of practical and elegant sporty wear but he knows it’s all about the map print. Only used on a handful of pieces, but it clearly steals the show. These were made from original 1950′s maps used by pilots, they lend a subtle hint of depth to the slightly clinical adventuresome clothing.

MODERN LOVE-SPRING SUMMER-13-IMAGES

The Modern Love work is another incidence of me being seduced by colour. I just don’t get excited by minimalist tailoring, you can tell I’m not a real fashionista. Also my other favourite thing of ever, being birds, featured heavily. I recognised the Hyacinth Macaws because of having painted a mural with some in a few weeks ago. They are amazing birds, and feature in various ways and sizes all across the collection, from hints of tiny feather to novelty oversized heads printed across dresses. A collaboration between illustrator Sarah Arnett and fashion editor Kim Hunt, the label makes sumptuous flowing garments in intoxicatingly colourful prints.

jenny robins - amelias magazine - lfwss13 -  sketch blog - fyoder golan sketch

In stark contrast, this substantial tailored dress by Fyoder Golan had a very concrete presence, for all its white and blue and feathers. If you caught the live feed this is the dress that was with that ridiculously huge blue glass mushroom hat.

There’s just something timelessly appealing about the combination of strong blues and whites, which I saw a lot of at the S/S13 exhibitions. Maybe it makes me think about Wedgewood and tiles in Lisbon and oriental prints, or maybe it’s as basic as white clouds on summer sky.

jenny robins - amelias magazine - lfwss13 -  sketch blog - fyoder golan
This is another of their blue and white creations that I love.

I remember Fannie Schaivoni from S/S12 with the chainmail harness jewellery, a little harsh and gothic, though it caught my eye then too. The latest incarnation has taken this into a brilliantly whimsical space by adding reflective clear pvc pieces to the chainmail to catch the light, and most brilliantly of all, the addition of baroque patterns stitched onto a plastic breastplate in pink cross-stitch.

jenny robins - amelias magazine - lfwss13 -  sketch blog - holly fulton
Holly Fulton has been a favourite of mine for a while, and this year’s collection with the blue roses and all is no exception. I’d seen the catwalk highlights so was excited to get a closer look. The blue roses sweatshirt I especially coveted also comes in that minty toothpaste colour that was everywhere this year already, which is joyful. I prefer the printed roses to those hand constructed out of sequins to be honest, although these are more striking. I sketched this clearly iconic pink and blue plastic dress in the exhibition, then had to paint it as well.

jenny robins - amelias magazine - lfwss13 - holly fulton

jenny robins - amelias magazine - lfwss13 -  sketch blog - alain quilici

Here is a shoe with a greyhound (I assume, not massive on dogs, possibly a whippet? The PR lady was eating her lunch, I didn’t like to interrupt) for a heel, by Alain Quilici for David Koma

jenny robins - amelias magazine - lfwss13 -  sketch blog - junky styling Deconstructed trench coat by Junky Styling

After a break for my first free coffee (I went on to have far too many of these and a big caffeine crash) I moved on to the Estethica showroom, where the most worthy fashion hangs out. I love love love this deconstructed trench coat by Junky Styling. It’s a skirt and little jacket. But it looks like a trench coat. Love.

Their repurposed clothing is definitively weather proof, and should see you through any global warming related wardrobe dilemmas.

jenny robins - amelias magazine - lfwss13 -  sketch blog - hayes ward - jordan askill

From Estethica, I wandered into the ‘Rock Vault’. It’s called that because it is full of blingy sparkly rocks in jewellery. not music with guitars. I liked some of Jo Hayes Ward’s intricate geological looking jewellery in cold colours. A strange line between organic and geometric shapes. I then got talking to Jordan Askill about his bird jewellery, more Macaws here, Lear’s Macaws this time, and swallows. His birds are captured in motion in precious metals and take a second look, I think his work is stunning.

jenny robins - amelias magazine - lfwss13 -  sketch blog - husamel odeh

I was struck by Husamel Odeh’s anti-watches; bracelets shaped like classic wrist watches, but again like the Renaissance Life’s necklace, there’s no mechanism or digital display. There’s no time here.

The designer didn’t seem to have time for me either, first refusing to explain the reason for the pieces then just stating ‘we don’t need watches anymore, we have phones, it’s just a bracelet, so…’ he tailed off. Unsatisfying. I might be tempted to read something about desperate denial of aging, or the constant crystallising of a moment that is fashion into this coincidence.

But like the pen lid earrings, it’s just people trying to be obtuse isn’t it? I prefer the deconstructed mac.

see part three of my sketch blog, covering my Vauxhal Fashion Scout Highlights, and favourite nice people, here

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