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September 19, 2007
London Fashion Week SS08: Aganovich
Vauxhall Fahion Scout, Baden Powell House, Queensgate Terrace, SW7 • 19 September/2007

Shown at the Baden Powell House, Aganovich’s ‘Forces of Victri’ collection was a buzzy event. The champagne helped. And also took the edge off waiting in the foyer. As the PR power pussies in black clutching clipboards moved to guard the doors, they announced 'would rows one to four to please step forward in the line'.

After the most important editor or buyer was finally seated, the lights went down and the Aganovich show began with a recording of a speech filled with political fire about the country’s future prosperity, harking back to the glory days of punk - though these days, true punk is rather dead.

The first model struts out and immediately, the intricate coiffure that tops her outfit is noticed – the hair is lovely. There is a distinctly oriental feel to the first few ensembles on the runway, with many references to the cheong-sam. Traditional oriental style dictates structure, tidiness and grooming and this was reflected but with modern, Westernised sentiments. Skirts sported high side splits with asymmetric hemlines. Aganovich’s designs combined the influence of Japanese samurai armor with a vaguely undone, roughed up sensibility; conveying the air of a battling urban warrior. Aganovich's mission is to constantly rework the two apparently contrary qualities of British design into one unified whole: the two disparate halves of traditional London Saville Row craftsmanship versus the two fingered sartorial salute initiated in the punk era. Aganovich is successful in this; her collection is all rebel-rebel with an old school, samurai sword toting warrior kind of twist.

An uber feminine collection with a decidedly masculine air - Aganovich presented a strong and cohesive Spring Summer 2008.

Written by Christel Escosa | Posted on September 19, 2007 8:24 PM

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