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September 18, 2007
London Fashion Week SS/08: Ann-Sofie Back
Topshop New Generation Venue, Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square WC1 • 17 September/07

For her third and final collection sponsored by Topshop, Ann Sofie Back stepped into a boldly daring yet boundlessly commercial new style, as seen yesterday at a packed out Bloomsbury Square.

Swedish born Back, famed for her propensity towards the unexpected and deconstructed, introduced a new shape for S/S '08. Relying heavily on the insertion of shoulder pads, Back has created a simple, angular form which is at once both feminine and austere. Shoulder pads are no longer the reserve of 80’s power-dressing, here, they are used to manipulate body shape in a curious way that steers clear of overt sexiness.

Models took to the catwalk in an assortment of oversized squared-off tops and dresses to a thumping soundtrack of vintage rock. In keeping with previous collections, Back kept to a subdued pallete of grey and ivory - only this time enriching it with intermittent flauntings of hot coral pink and deep purple. Hair was unkempt and free-flowing while faces remained bare and icy-cool.

Embellishment remained a key theme with reflective sunglass lenses covering the front of a black dress or bag, adding movement and facets of light to an otherwise nondescript outfit. Her unwavering commitment to structure and composition places Back at the forefront of futuristic fashion, a bold new world also inhabited by Martin Margiela and Jil Sander, who are clear influences for this collection. She’s in good company.

Written by Joanna McGarry | Posted on September 18, 2007 10:51 AM

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