Alison Clemency-Buddenhagen’s first independent label, ‘Clemency’ is now set for its second season. Launched last year and already rubbing shoulders with avid Knightsbridge shoppers in Harvey Nichols, ‘Clemency’ has been tipped as a label to look out for this year.
To say the designer’s CV is impressive would be an understatement and the woman behind the label could certainly inspire a whole other article. Alison Clemency-Buddenhagen graduated with a BA Honours degree in Design from Central St Martin’s School of Art and Design. Whilst studying she worked for the ethical designer and eco campaigner, Katharine Hamnett. Amid the bustling competition of London’s fashion breeding ground, her degree show earned Alison positive coverage from the press including front-page coverage from the International Herald Tribune. A delightful fashion/art amalgamation ensued, when one of the pieces from this collection was shown alongside the work of a fledgling Damien Hirst.
In a career that has seen Clemency-Buddenhagen secure design posts for Armani, Trussardi, Calvin Klein and Burberry, to name but a few, it is no surprise that her first independent label reflects a well mastered skill and appreciation of fabric and cut. Alison also worked as a music journalist and has interviewed a diverse mix of artists, such as Radiohead, Nirvana, Massive Attack and Janet Jackson.
‘Clemency’ actualises the designer’s artistic musings and well-honed skills, in a cleverly understated manner. The Spring Summer 2010 collection, recently launched in Montaigne Market, is effortlessly feminine with an edge. There is a nod to swinging London and her ladylike Parisian sister, with a faint streak of street savvy New Yorker running through the collection.
Dainty feminine frills sit prettily alongside studded leather. The colour palette is muted dove grey, ivory, fawn… with the detailing and accessories doing the talking. Leather biker caps punctuate silk ruffled dresses. Spotting the little details in the collection is a joy, from the hand embroidered borders to the tattered edges and fraying hemlines. The embellishments are rusted and antique looking, giving the garments a vintage mood. The Brigitte Bardot influence on the collection is striking; the felt signature hats and tousled ruffles along hems instantly evoke images of that famous nude coloured pout.
The iconic Joy Division album artwork for ‘Unknown Pleasures’ also proved to be an inspiration for the collection.
The artwork depicting white linear topography over a stark black background generated the idea behind the beautifully engineered dresses. The origami folds create a jagged silhouette, feminized by a carefully constructed cut.
The collection has an atmospheric quality. Inspired by effortlessly chic Jane Birkin, the garments hang with the same spirit of cool nonchalance. From sheer gloves to bare arm to military influenced leather jackets with embellished lapels. Outfits playfully twirl from Boudoir inspired chiffon pleats, to cheeky piquet polos and silk couture shorts. These pieces are at odds with the idea of a one-dimensional woman. The fabrics give the wearer permission to be feminine and sexy, comfortable and edgy, designer clad and decadently vintage.
Alison Clemency-Buddhagen’s humbling experience in the fashion world has obviously helped her to hone her skills and the collection is technically striking. The wide range of influences and moods evoked by the collection reveal a deep seated knowledge of art and culture.
Autumn Winter 2010 proves to be equally interesting. With whispers of next season’s collection including a flash of David Bowie for inspiration, it makes any fashion enthusiast with a penchant for music weak at the knees.
Tags:
Alison Clemency-Buddenhagen, Becca Kitson, Brigitte Bardot, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Central St Martins, Clemency, David Bowie, fashion, Harvey Nichols, Jane Birkin, Janet Jackson, joy division, Massive Attack, S/S 2010
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