Emilio de la Morena A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns
Before this show I hadn’t heard of the originally Spanish Central Saint Martin’s graduate, Emilio de la Morena, but knew I was in possession of a hot ticket judging by the scores of fashion editors making their way to the front rows, including one of my favourite editors, Natalie Hartley of In Style Magazine and Sunday Times Style. She has one of the best and most inspiring clothing blogs out there, especially tailored to work for those without a fashion editor budget. I loved her outfit for the day, a little like a romantic grunge-look, which she’s blogged about here. The lights finally dimmed, and as a slower and darker rendition of flamenco music began to play, the first model made her way out.
The press release read that Emilio de la Morena was taking a hiatus from his signature cocktail dresses with this collection, ‘in favour of a darker, more grown-up approach’. He got my attention from the first outfit. Inspired by traditional Spanish dress such as Anso in the Alto Aragon region and their striking head coverings or silhouettes, Emilio de la Morena came up with something unlike anything else I’d seen at London Fashion Week. An incredible hooded cape that was cinched in at the waist and topped off with a leather tie-knot struck the perfect balance between modern and traditional. The next look displayed a cape in white, and as the show continued, it became evident this wasn’t a simple styling trick. All the headpieces were in fact collaboration with a bespoke milliner by the name of J Smith Esquire,.
The beauty of traditional dress is in the details. Knots, pins, and shapes give the clothes character. Emilio de la Morena translated this into his version of ‘sculptural chic’ by treating leather, fabric and wool in new ways. Little leather knots echoed headscarf ties, long length dresses were ‘rigorously tailored’ but cut to move and show off the figure. I immediately wanted one of the floor-length dresses, especially when I saw the patent-leather panelling that reminded me of corsetry. One blogger tweeted: ‘I want everything from this collection, I’d wear the hoods and be like a sexy goth for winter.‘
Emilio de la Morena A/W12 by Gareth A Hopkins
This collection was covered up, but most definitely sexy. Any short dresses I own suddenly felt a bit boring against the mature sensuality of the Emilio de la Morena woman. Oxblood, petrol-blue, pale ivory and pink colours were set against the mainly monochrome collection, including prints made from a photograph of a Spanish forest.
This collection can give anyone a knockout-sexy look while being alluring and not trashy. I love how Emilio de la Morena kept skin covered, but highlighted the figure; framing hips in leather and emphasizing the legs with bias-cuts. A perfect marriage between the traditional and the new for A/W 2012.
All photography by Maria Papadimitriou
Alia Gargum, Blogging, Bows, Central St Martins, Claire Kearns, corsetry, Emilio de la Morena, Fashion blog, Fashion Editor, Forests, Gareth A Hopkins, J Smith Esquire, leather, London Fashion Week A/W 2012, Maria Papadimitriou, monochrome, sculpture, Somerset House, spain, Sunday Times Style, The Gallery, Tweeting
- London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Emilio de la Morena (by Amelia)
- London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Emilio de la Morena (by Helen)
- London Fashion Week: Poltock & Walsh/Emilio de la Morena
- London Fashion Week A/W10 – Esprit de Corps Catwalk Review
- Youjia Jin AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review