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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

Fashion East: London Collections: Men S/S 2014 Presentation Review, featuring Joseph Turvey, Kit Neale, Tom Ryling and Liam Hodges

Fashion East brings together five of London's freshest menswear designers, presented at Mercer Street Studios on Tuesday 18 June…

Written by Matt Bramford


Tom Ryling S/S 2014 – all photography by Matt Bramford

Fashion East has brought the freshest designers to the London fashion catwalks for the last 13 years. It nurtures our newest talent and the likes of Jonathan Saunders, Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab, Christopher Shannon and Lou Dalton have all propelled to success with the help of this non-profit organisation.


Kit Neale S/S 2014

Fashion East during London Collections: Men takes the form of the MAN catwalk show (which I didn’t get tickets for, but am totally non-plussed about that, honest) and static installations. This season, our pal Joseph Turvey, Liam Hodges, Tom Ryling, Marques’Almeida and Kit Neale showcased their collections. Here’s a look:

JOSEPH TURVEY

Joe follows his incredible A/W 13 dalmatian-themed collection (see our interview here) with ‘Collection no.4′. There’s always a central focus and this season is no exception, exploring the story of legendary female NASCAR driver Ethel Mobley. This seemed to suit Joe’s brand perfectly, bringing together his glorious illustrations (this time of cars and flowers) with his unique take on current sportswear. Block colours with an element of Rothko gave the collection cohesion, presented a geometric backdrop created by set designer Tom Bird.

Dreamy pencil drawings of flowers were covered in contrasting block colours, so a crisp white suit carrying the illustrative decorations was merged together with a thick stripe of translucent magenta. A light blue top with a translucent netted panel, Joe’s signature, emerged from under a sharp blazer.

Quilted coats, bomber shapes and jersey shirts all made use of the collections striking patterns, all styled with bright white Adidas Originals and gym socks. I LOVED the striped shorts.

KIT NEALE


Kit is no stranger to daring, graphic prints but I’m confident that this is his best collection to date. Models sat astride enormous KIT NEALE letters in a collection that had me squealing as soon as I entered. Jackets, trousers and shorts that bore a childlike city print reminded me of wheeling cars around those road map carpets, and I read on the press release that Kit grew up with one in Peckham.

Other prints included adventurous trippy patterns in a range of vibrant colours on tight-fit pants and mesh t-shirts. In what is probably another nod to Peckham (or any other London suburb), a ‘Perfectly Fried Chicken‘ embroidered motif had me resisting the urge to undress the models there and then. Instead I’ll be heading straight down to Opening Ceremony with my credit card.

LIAM HODGES


Liam graduated from the RCA only four weeks ago. His collection is for ‘men who don’t drive Volvos‘ and his installation featured a group of rugged guys bunched together on a sofa, necking Red Stripe and surrounded by gratuitous tear sheets from soft porn magazines.

Inspiration came from a variety of sources – Morris dancing, punk, hip-hop and streetwear. Cue graphic hoodies mixing paisley with graffiti, sleeveless denim jackets worn over oversized tees, bucket hats and Adidas sandals worn with socks.

TOM RYLING


Tom’s collection caused quite a stir and Instagram was already going wild with shots of his S/S 2014 offering before I’d even hit the presentation. With a fine art background, Tom’s was a totally unique and conceptual collection, inspired by holidays at the British seaside. Old and new textiles including neoprene, hessian and plastics were manipulated to create boxy shapes. Painted denims completed these forward-thinking looks.

MARQUES’ALMEIDA

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