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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

Fashion East: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Presentation Review featuring Alan Crocetti, Marques Almeida, Shuan Samson, Edward Crutchley and Martine Rose

On the upper floor of the Old Sorting Office on Monday 16 June, five of London's freshest menswear designers held presentations as part of Fashion East.

Written by Matt Bramford

Nicci James Edward Crutchley Ss 15 illustration froggy hat
Edward Crutchley S/S 2015 by Nicci James

Fashion East has, for a number of years now, showcased the best in new London menswear talent, and this year was no exception. In a change of venue, the non-profit organisation took over the upper floor of the Old Sorting Office, a cavernous expanse built in the 1960s. Its brutalist interior is the perfect setting for fashion events. Amongst asbestos warnings, concrete columns and cold, hard floors, Alan Crocetti, Edward Crutchley, Marques’Almeida, Martine Rose and Shaun Samson showcased their S/S 2015 collections. Here’s a run down:

ALAN CROCETTI
Alan’s jewellery has already had much attention thanks to collaborations with MAN designer Bobby Abley. His metal mouth guards last season caused a stir and his ‘body-conscious’ pieces are truly unique. This season saw models dressed only in fraid black t-shirts and shorts draped over a scaffolding framework, sporting metalware that had been inspired by injuries and surgery. Cue sinister rhinoplasty-esque nose strips in metal, slim bracelets like surgery pins and elegant hexagonal rings.

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All photography by Matt Bramford

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY
Textile designer Edward is another new addition to the Fashion East line up. After stints at Louis Vuitton Home and Richard Nicoll, Edward combines ancient techniques with modern luxury. His line up of six models wore bandanas tied around their heads (some under baseball caps), sweatshirts, hoods, shorts and skin-tight shrunken jersey trousers. These were all produced in a complex, graphic pattern in deep reds, blues and purple. A metal baseball cap with spikes was a bit of a showstopper.

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Edward Crutchley S/S 2015 by Nicci James

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MARQUES’ALMEIDA
A chipboard background and plentiful plants were the setting for Marques’Almeida’s presentation this season. Male and female models filled the scene, the former wearing fraud, oversized denim tops, jumpers and tapered trousers, the latter wearing enormous fraud denim flares, chunky knitwear and fur scarves.

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Marques’Almeida S/S 2015 by Anastasia Caratzas

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MARTINE ROSE
Martine is a favourite of mine. This year a single model standing on a circular plinth had an eerie presence, with a Greek statue lurking in the background. A heavy leather jacket and oversized trackpants swamped the boyish model; at his feet hundreds of black and white photocopies of homoerotic, Mapplethorpe-esque images on coloured pieces of paper. It was a somewhat confusing but fascinating taster of Martine’s full collection which is due to be released in September.

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SHAUN SAMSON

Surely it can’t be long before Shaun is awarded a full-scale catwalk show, but for SS15 we made do with three boy scout-like models sitting amongst temporary beds and cushions. Vibrant graphic scarves were styled in this boy scout style, placed over wide-sleeved t-shirts, worn over fitted tops. Grey, red and blue colour blocks filled these garments; peaked hats and fur lanyards completed the looks.

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All photography by Matt Bramford

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