On a self proclaimed “mission to print the world” Basso & Brooke’s SS10 collection Neo Pop is as enticing as bubble wrap. Popping it, not wrapping yourself in it of course.
The Neo Pop collection was a vision of cascading silk jersey dresses. The collages of hot pink shatters, linear cobalt striations, and purple swirls clung to the models’ figures. The designs gave a wide berth to the duo’s loose and girlie romp wear from SS09.
The collections’ imagery was inspired by the post modern 80’s artist Jeff Koons and the oiled up figures of legendary 90’s photographer Herb Ritts.
Similar to Hussein Chalayan’s foam moulded, car crash inspired SS09 collection of bright swirling colours, Basso & Brooke pulled and twirled colours like taffy with the occasional appearance of a black and white zigzag.
The designers’ fondness for asymmetrical shoulders, occasionally present in fibrous strips returned with bravado alongside their wonderful application of draped silk to a structured bust. Statements that were not made in the tightly wrapped silk georgette were achieved in cinched organza constructed with a gathered bust.
An ankle length viscose playsuit deceivingly printed with sequins captivated entirely with it’s shimmery effect. Beading appeared as black and white swirls of baguette beads, surrounded by wavy ripples of Technicolor that stood apart from the digital prints hyper realism.
One outfit stirred everyone in their seats. A blinding vision in a golden foil cropped jacket atop black pleated trousers. It was an electrified ode to Futurism, and possibly Jeff Koons’ gargantuan metallic pink balloon animal.
Tailors of a different species, Basso & Brooke (for AW09’s 18th century Baroque inspired collection) bend graphics to their will, using them to cut, shape and illustrate the form on seamless sheaths of fabric. For SS 2009 they loosened the reins and let the imagery spill out across the dresses with wild abandon. In some cases graphics trailed off and nude stretch netting filled in the rest of the garments.
Hair was as slick and stiff as the abs in a Herb Ritts photo and so very very 90’s. Deep burgundy lips kept the show’s edge well balanced with a dark matte feel.
Cubist heels had all the power of a Boccioni sculpture high stepping down the runway in blue suede, black pony hair, gold leather pumps and ankle boots. One shoe in particular with its white backward facing “rudder” made me wonder if it wasn’t inspired by the yacht Jeff Koons painted for a Cypriot art collector…you MUST see this thing.
It’s impossible NOT to remark on the eerie similarity to the rippling high-def prints on Mary Katrantzou’s SS10 catwalk. Saturated hues with a touch of black and white graphics, the fashion newbie also opted to send out bodycon minis and cinched party dresses with Dale Chihuly like fabric undulations embellishing the front.
However all paths lead to Rome, and Amelia’s Magazine are happy to follow the pied pipers of print, Basso & Brooke.
All photographs by Sabrina Morrison
Tags:
90s, Basso & Brooke, Basso & Brooke SS10, grunge, Herb Ritts, Jeff Koons, London Fashion Week 09, Purplelipstick, SS10
