Charles Anastase’s S/S 2010 and tenth collection found it’s setting in the Baroque and slightly sinister surroundings of Finsbury Town Hall. The ever- flashing press light bulbs momentarily brightened the foreboding atmosphere exaggerated by the mysterious classical music pounding through the speakers. The crowd’s excitement was palable and fission sparked across the room.
The collection was as described a lesson in the “Colour Block – Something more abstract” Garments were constructed from one or two colours, the structure of which became increasingly abstracted by nurtured theatricality. Dresses and coats became wider and wider as if situated over 17th century hoops whilst muslin dresses were draped over layers and layers of tulle.
Assorted pieces included bold coloured dress straps including what can only be described as silk dungarees. Box pleats, tunic shifts and “lazy chignons” escorted A-line skirts. The messed out romantic hair encapsulated the naivety of the models roughed faces'. Voluminous fabric encased the models's body whilst their feet were strapped into Natascha Marrow’s Mary-Jane platforms. An act of dressing that transformed their bodies into a fantasist’s playground.
Dresses inspired potentially by Balenciaga’s (1940’s) sack dresses were voluminous extensions of wrapped fabric hanging from the models shoulder from thick straps. The fabric was prodded, pleated and ruffled creating a sense of controlled spontaneity. Bold orange glowed in the semi darkness at the same time as tulle sprayed dramatically from the backs of dresses and peeked shyly from underskirts.
Towards the end of the show, a billowing pink dress materlalised from backstage gliding down the catwalk. Functionally visually as a bed, the creation was incredibly reminiscent of Victor and Rolf’s characteristic anti fashion niche. Where models are weighed down with yard upon yards of fabric drawing attention to the potential circus of fashion week as they walk around to be consumed by press and buyers alike.
The trench coat added a modern feel, as did the kooky sunglasses of the girl about town. The extensive volume combined with blocked out eyes proposed that the function of clothes is one of disguise and extended personality.
A rather spectacular splash of colour and extended anatomy on London Fashion Week’s second day, I’ll be watching future seasons.
Tags:
25th, Charles Anastase, Finsbury Town Hall, LFW 09, relativemo, Somerset House
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