There was a buzz around Hannah Marshall’s tri-cornered catwalk at the Fashion Factory situated in the Old Sorting Office on New Oxford Street yesterday, and it wasn’t just the caffeinated drinks talking. Erin O’Connor was the most familiar face walking for the hotly tipped newcomer, who is known for her black leather creations, but the clothes spoke for themselves, or rather shouted in a rather frightening way.
There is an aggressive feel to Marshall’s new collection, with pointed bra tops echoing, of course, Madonna’s famous efforts in that department. It generally felt very much the 80s remix, updated with delicate pieces of sculpture at the crucial points of shoulder and hip. Shoulders were augmented with visible padding while hips received spiny or shell-like additions, creating an exaggerated female form.
Marshall is an expert at working with black and, although the collection is simple and almost monochromatic except for an unexpected shot of purple, the mixture of soft suede, mesh, leather and silk creates texture and depth. The silhouettes are sexy: short and strapless; but the shapes are mostly form-fitting rather than body-con and boxy suits drape over bare skin to get their effect.
Metal and crystal elements like long curved fangs adorned the models’ arms and jutted from parts of the clothes. Along with the horror-movie-monster rills and black and purple colour palette, there is a seriously sinister edge to Marshall’s vision. But despite this it manages to be wearable and very wantable. After all, Marshall persuaded O’Connor to model for her with ten quid and a cheese Panini, so there must be something rather special about her.
Tags:
Hannah Marshall, lfw, lfw09, London Fashion Week
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