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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Fyodor Golan (by Amelia)

Fyodor Golan showed an extremely confident debut catwalk collection at Fashion Scout on Saturday 19th February. Here's my review, following hot on the heels of Matt Bramford's own version...

Written by Amelia Gregory

Fyodor Golan A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai
Fyodor Golan A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai.

I love heading into a show at LFW when I have absolutely no idea what to expect – anything showing at Fashion Scout and PR-ed by Trace Publicity is almost certainly going to be of a high calibre, as was the case with newcomers, the intriguingly named Fyodor Golan.

Fyodor Golan A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Fyodor Golan A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman surely have the most FABULOUS names in fashion. This endearing couple (they held hands when they came out for a bow) are emblematic of the mash up of cultures and nationalities that constitutes London a decade into the new millennium. Between them they have Latvian, Russian, Israeli, Moroccan and German roots but got together here in my hometown of Londinium. Between them they have worked at Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons, Richard Nichol and Issey Miyake – in other words a top selection of fashion designers – and these skills were put to good effect in Pagan Poetry, their first catwalk show.

Fyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Fyodor Golan A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

The result was a super confident collection inspired by the dress of Regency and Renaissance periods and the scarification rituals of tribal cultures. In practice this meant lots of sheer dresses, cut away areas on the waist, sexy exposed backs and highly tooled ridged and bumped leather detailing. Some of the staggered draping reminded me of Masha Ma, seen at it’s most extreme in a powder blue hooded cape on top of a textured see through bodysuit. Backless dresses are big for A/W and one of my favourite Fyodor Golan dresses featured teasingly buckled straps beneath a thick swinging plait. Very sexy.

Fyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan By Lisa Stannard
Fyodor Golan by Lisa Stannard.

A couple of the tighter dresses featured one of the season’s more worrying trends: extremely tight gathered hems which forced the model to move with great care down the catwalk – I’m sure clothing psychologists would have a field day with the meaning behind this latest design feature. The show closed with a deep royal blue dress featuring this season’s favourite red carpet touch: a lengthy train of fabric billowing out behind. I look forward to seeing what this multi cultural twosome produce next.

Fyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan By Lisa Stannard
Fyodor Golan by Lisa Stannard.

You can read Matt Bramford’s rather more amusing blog about this show and the trials and tribulations of sitting next to an *annoying person who leans out to capture every single look on their shitty camera* right here. Oh how I empathise – I had my fair share of camera wielding cretins to cope with over LFW (see above, at this very show). I could see Matt helplessly trying to shoot round his one at the far end of the catwalk and you can probably spot the culprit from the front if you look through my own photos. GRRRRRR.

Fyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryFyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more work by Lisa Stannard in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

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