Illustration by Oliver John Quinn
After hanging out with contributor Nick for lunch during Menswear Day, I hot-footed it up to Vauxhall Fashion Scout to check out D.GNAK’s latest offerings. It was the only menswear show I’d see at the Freemasons’ Hall and it was fairly quiet. I’d enjoyed his outing last season and was looking forward to seeing how his quirky Japanese aesthetic would translate for A/W.
Contributor Georgia with Paul Weller
I bumped into contributor Georgia Takacs there and we headed into the venue, sitting on opposite sides so not to get the same pictures. As we sat down, she started FREAKING OUT. ‘Is that Paul Weller? IS THAT PAUL WELLER?!’ she began yelling. It turns out it was, and he was nestled on the front row with his missus and two children. Georgia immediately went over to chat to him and I took a few pictures of them together, grinned nervously at him and thought to myself that his haircut has a lot to answer for.
Illustration by Joana Faria
On with the show. In a bold move from last season’s classic tailoring with contemporary twists, Kang D (the designer behind D.GNAK) had injected strong colours, interesting knits and enormous rucksacks.
All photography by Matt Bramford
The show opened with utilitarian tailoring that you might expect George Orwell’s Winston Smith to wear dark grey baggy trousers with an apron-like upper half was teamed with a luxurious floor-length cable knit cardigan. Next, a rich pea-coat with over-sized lapels and plaid-detail shoulders.
D.GNAK as a label is quickly establishing itself as an expert in materials and textures. Wools, corduroy, tweed and cotton were all on display, spiced up using colours like mustard and burgundy.
Illustration by Rob Wallace
There’s also an eye for the unfinished – that’ll be the Japanese ma influence then – with fraid hems that look a bit like a Savile Row tailor has had the day off – but teamed with polished blazers and expensive-looking coats, this works really well.
Every man is pretty much catered for here. There’s sartorial tailoring in the form of suits and Sherlock Holmes-esque coats for the sharpest dresser; wool blazers with contrasting buttons and vibrant trousers work well for casuals; corduroy onesies will have the more fashion-forward males racing to the shops.
Ace accessories were on offer – oversized patent leather rucksacks with suede details were worn on both shoulders, buckle straps revealed helpful features like an umbrella carrier. I like.
This was a much fresher collection than last time – the same level of craftsmanship was on offer, but it’s interesting to see D-GNAK explore different pieces, experiment with colours and toy with the traditions of sartorial menswear.
See more of Joana Faria’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!
Tags:
A/W 2011, Catwalk review, D.GNAK, Dong Jun Kang, Freemasons' Hall, George Orwell, Joana Faria, KANG.D, London Fashion Week, ma, Menswear Day, Nineteen Eighty Four, Oliver John Quinn, Paul Weller, Rob Wallace, Savile Row, Sherlock Holmes, tailoring, Unfinished, Utilitarian, Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Winston Smith
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