Anja Mlakar by Madi
Ones to Watch is always one of my favourite parts of London Fashion Week, four fresh designers, one after another and always packed to the rafters, it’s a really nice way to see contrasting styles. Generally it’s a mixed bag, read last season’s review here. Famous spots in the audience include infamous blogger Susie Bubble and ethical fashion editor Laura Santamaria. The four young designers were profiled ahead of London Fashion Week by Matt, you can read a bit more about their background, influences and style here.
The designer presented a collection of pastels, with cut out and overlap details. In answer to Matt’s pondering in his write up of the designer, she has indeed developed some of the key styles which were seen in her SS11 show, in particular the laser cut detail and the triangle shape of her dresses. This was a fun, pleasantly pastel, colourful collection with plenty to keep the audience interested.
Kirsty Ward by Anne N’Toko
This is definitely a designer to keep your eye on. Part of a growing crop of young graduates who really bring jewellery into their collections, Kirsty Ward’s AW11 offering was brimming with sparkly adornments and beautifully cut clothes. In particular, the use of cut out panels throughout, was very effective. A palette with gold, bronze and brown, the autumnal colours were accented with sudden all-in-white outfits and stunning oversized necklaces. A favourite for me was the mesh bronze dress, which caught the light beautifully as the model walked down the catwalk.
Sara Bro Jorgensen
Definitely my favourite collection out of the four, Sara Bro Jorgensen has a hint of Mark Fast and Laura Theiss about her designs but has added an edgier, rocky feel to knitted yarns.
Sara Bro Jorgensen by Maria Papadimitriou
Mostly black, her collection showcased knitted dresses with lots of hanging threads and beads. There were also some highly covetable leggings with shiny black slivers of PVC running down the middle of the leg. My favourite part of the collection, however, was the cute headgear sported by all the models. Little knitted caps in black and dark blue were worn with nearly every single look. As well as the black, white knitted cardigans and dresses were worn with grey, splatter print swingy trousers and shorts. The black versus white theme was continued with trompe l’oeil printed dresses complete with tuxedo jacket, waistcoat, shirt and bow tiees.
Tze Goh by Joe Turvey
The last of our Ones to Watch is Tze Goh who graduated from Parsons in New York and then completed his masters at Central Saint Martins. Goh’s collection was understated, with clean simple lines in block colours of midnight blue, husky grey and black. The structured coats, dresses and jackets cleverly retained their shape as the models walked and I would love to know what material he uses, but I couldn’t help feeling that more could have been done to make the collection stand out. However, I do applaud how he has retained from over designing his clothes and has kept a minimal aesthetic.
- London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch (by Amelia)
- Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2011 – A Preview
- Kirsty Ward: The London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Preview Interview
- Charlie May: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review
- London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Exhibition Review: Vauxhall Fashion Scout