Autumn Winter 10 appeared to be garments for the restless designed by slightly angry designers, upon arrival the viewer was greeted with a press release bordering on a strop as Komakino laid out the accusations that their designs are irrelevant.
Their answer was to produce a collection which seethed down the catwalk, the models were angry young men with dip dyed hair scowling as they swept past the audience. A sinister show, the feeling of unease emphatically encouraged through the choice of track.
Disputes aside, Kimakino produced an unsettling collection. Whilst potentially made for a particular demographic, elements could filter down into the more nervous wardrobe. The currently popular aviator (when looking for heroes – why do they always come from War?) theme appeared in a few jackets (I’m interested in the new film about Amelia Earhart the first female pilot who disappeared attempting to fly solo around the world), whilst Komakino’s take on knitwear appeared long and stretched rather than stopping at the mealy oversized.
Their update on the suit consisted of thoughtful tailoring, including subtle leather application provided an alternative for those keen on not losing their identity. A nod to the days of the mod, the teddy boy and the rise of what is now known as smart casual (see the TV programme British Style Genius for excellent coverage on these style ‘tribes’).
There were connotations of James Dean in the collection, the reference being in the use of leather and it’s connotations to ideas of rebellion.
I am apprehensive to write the following, seeing how it has been bandied about so frequently of late. However as the photographs illustrate the Komakino Man was clearly – from the dip dyed hair to the aforementioned stretched knitwear – influenced by the 90’s.
The press release does not make clear the political (or non political) connotations of the prints of 1st World War child soldiers appearing on the backs of jackets and the fronts of t-shirts, Katharine Hamnett spelt out her thoughts quite clearly – but if the designers are disagreeing – how is this made clear through a print? Are these young men meant to connect (through being the same age) as the young men who were or still are being sent to war on unjust causes? Or are they bringing the viewers attention to just how young these soldiers were and again, still are?
A beautifully made collection.
Tags:
2010, british fashion council, Komakino, London Fashion Week, menswear
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