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London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Cooperative Designs

The glorious Cooperative Designs take their inspiration this season from Brian Harvey and 90s garage… will illustrations by Joana Faria, Rachel Lewis and Matilde Sazio!

Written by Naomi Law

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

After racing around during the morning, I hotfooted it down to Cooperative Designs presentation at Durham House on The Strand.

A favourite of Amelia’s Magazine, Cooperative Designs was created by Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann who met whilst studying at Central Saint Martins. They have gone on to produce their own collections, collaborate with Hussein Chalayan and consult for other brands and stores.

Illustration by Joana Faria

The collection is inspired by early nineties pop culture, the Drum N’ Bass scene and industrial photography, taking its title from the East 17 song ‘It’s Alright’. Apparently the music in the girls’ studio whilst designing this collection was “classic nineties garage: ‘Sweet Like Chocolate’, ‘Do You Really Like It?’, ‘Re-rewind’ and Oxide and Neutrino ‘Bound 4 Da Reload’.”

Illustration by Rachel Lewis

I went to the basement of Durham House (home of the RSA) for the presentation. The dim lighting, sounds of thundering bass lines, raw exposed brickwork and vaulted ceilings evoked an underground rave, offering the perfect location for the collection. The references were boldly apparent as the models strode through the space. The label’s signature graphic patterns were used in a palette of greys, black, khaki and earthy hues with neon detailing. Trousers were low and baggy with utilitarian combat styling such as oversized pockets; knitwear long and loose, worn with cropped tops.

Heeled boots from German brand Flip Flop were customised with neon laces and worn with striped slouch socks, adding a touch of femininity to the primarily industrial mood. Models wore high beanie hats in chunky knits and square-peaked caps by Noel Stewart – more than a slight nod to East 17.

Scaled barcode-esque stripes resonated with woven flashes of fluro, and sportswear influence presented itself in the form of hoods, drawstrings and contrast stitching.

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

Corrie Williamson supplied plywood jewellery; laser cut figures daubed with neon acrylic paint were worn as pendants (and handed out with the press release) and chunky bangles were layered on the wrist.

Who ever would have thought that fashion owed anything to Brian Harvey?

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2 Responses to “London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Cooperative Designs”

  1. [...] the Úna Burke review, go to Amelia’s Magazine. For Cooperative Design, go there too. [...]

  2. [...] this is my submission for the article about Cooperative Designs AW11 Presentation, by Naomi Law. Very quick, very fun. Tags: aw11 Previous postNew Work: Compound Magazine Next postHomemade [...]

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