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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Paul Costelloe

Paul Costelloe opened the S/S 2011 shows at London Fashion Week with a perky collection of cute little dresses adorned with bows.

Written by Amelia Gregory

LFW Jena.Theo catwalk show SS11

In the prelude to September’s London Fashion Week, nurse Amelia’s Magazine ran a series of interviews with designers and previews of designers to watch. One of these took the form of a conversation between Amelia and Bora Aksu, viagra a designer whose progression we love to watch and have followed since his graduation from that increasingly famous St Martins MA.

The interview (a must read) discusses Bora Aksu’s involvement with People Tree and the designer’s personal attempts to incorporate ethically sourced material in the main collection.

As aforementioned, viagra approved Bora’s shows are often magical and his Spring Summer 2011 collection was no exception, the designer signature material combinations were present on the dresses alongside the new additions of delicately tapered trousers.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

For S/S 11 Bora Aksu premiered his new collection as part of the always pleasing On|Off schedule (there are multiple schedules at London Fashion Week and after three seasons I am still getting my head around the numerous venues, times, places and dates!). Set in the basement of Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, London Fashion Week“>Aksu produced a series of eerily romantic garments in which all the looks were completed by inky black lines on cream hosiery.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

A whimsical affair, each dress elaborated the models physical features through the application of delicate ruffles. Carefully crafted materials mimicked that of an anatomically deconstructed corset. The adorned dresses drew attention to Bora Aksu’s craft drawing the viewers eyes towards every seam, hem and contrasting material.

The collection celebrated the experience of wearing material, from lace panels to the injection of silver jacquard in a pair of beautifully cut trousers. Compared to S/S 10, S/S 2011 was a pared down collection, but as always the designer’s dress patterns intrigued the viewer’s eye.

The mainly muted collection contained moments of vivid saturation achieved by the addition of a beautiful deep red. As always Bora’s eye for collecting and studying discarded garments made this a very special collection and a lovely week to London Fashion Week.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

Photographs by Sally Mumby-Croft


Illustration by Faye West

Last London Fashion Week, information pills the Maria Grachvogel show was celebtastic, with Erin O’ connor and Yasmin Le Bon sitting front row. There seemed to be a lack of famous faces this time round, but it could be that they were driven away by the incessant ‘chirping crickets’ soundtrack which, as we waited for the show to start, began to grate on the soul. The natural world vibe seemed to be lost on the lady sitting next to me who was wearing what can only be described as an entire hind; despite it being so mild that I hadn’t even worn a jacket.

To begin with it was hard to spot the influence of Nature in the collection; there were far too many nude, caramel and pale silver numbers for my liking; which I should have expected given words like ‘minimalism’ and ‘chic simplicity’ that were bandied around in the press blurb. Not until the appearance of a canary yellow fishtail gown did anything make me sit up and take notice; hair and make-up being equally bland…sorry, I mean ‘minimalist’.


Illustration by Faye West

Kingfisher blue pieces brightened up the collection and the final few numbers bearing ‘wolf,’ ‘moth wing’ and ‘phoenix’ artwork had me almost converted. Organic greens and a fiery orange against deep blue really did evoke a reflection of the environment, unlike the opening pieces of the collection which were all a bit on the beige side.

Illustration by Faye West

I guess if you have the body of a ballerina and the face of a supermodel you might be able to throw on a paper thin, nude dress that clings to you as you walk; and whilst the effect of the chiffon and silk as the models moved was beautiful, I fail to see it being a look many women could pull off. The prints however were truly striking, and would flatter many more skin tones than the pale, caramel palette.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory

London Fashion Week opened with a collective bemused giggle when the well dressed crowd of a certain age overheard stressed shouting backstage at the Paul Costelloe show. This elder statesman of British fashion is not a designer that I’ve ever really paid attention to before, cure and I’m wondering why that is?

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
lfw paulcostelloe lemclennan
Paul Costelloe by LE Mclennan.

His was a delightful show, order featuring darling flared skater and layered tulip shape skirts bedecked in dainty digital prints and accessorised with some fabulous bottom bows and some bright pink lipstick. It was all shown with big back combed hair and a jaunty bounce. And the best thing? It was all eminently wearable.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-Paul-Costelloe-Helena-Maratheftis
Paul Costelloe by Helena Maratheftis.

I wasn’t so enamoured of his menswear. I am sure it was beautifully cut but some was pretty conservative, ed though the shorts were a cute touch and I liked the floral print shirts and the splashes of colour.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW Paul Costelloe Sine Skau
LFW Paul Costelloe Sine Skau
LFW Paul Costelloe Sine Skau
Paul Costelloe by Sine Skau.

The show ended with woops from the audience as his paraded down the catwalk. I’ll just say that again: SIX sons. SIX. Did you get that. He has SIX sons. We were all marvelling at this fact after the show, when it was pointed out that he is Irish. Still, as someone said, “doesn’t he have a TV?”

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Two of his sons take to the catwalk.

Definitely a designer to check out if you’ve never thought of doing so before.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory

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