London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: J. JS Lee

A rather quiet crowd in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House saw Jackie JS Lee's debut salon show on the morning of Sunday 18 September…

Written by Matt Bramford


J. JS Lee S/S 2012, illustrated by Claire Kearns

Korean born J. JS Lee (first J for Jackie) hosted a salon show on the sunny Sunday morning of fashion week in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House. Central Saint Martins alumni, Jackie graduated with an MA in womenswear only last year and has since received the Harrods Award accolade.


J. JS Lee S/S 2012, illustrated by Phoebe Kirk

We were seated on the infamous white benches that had caused outrage at JW Anderson’s show the previous day, when front row fashionistas stood up at the end of his presentation to find their arses covered in white paint that hadn’t had time to dry. Oops. How awful. I did a quick hand test to make sure the same wasn’t going to happen to my jeans. I took a seat right next to the photographer’s ‘pit’ – sparse in comparison to most of the shows. A lady stood so close to me in the pit that I almost offered her the chance to sit in my lap, but thought better of it. It turned out she would be a rather dominant creature, and had a flashbulb the size of my head which made it almost impossible to take pictures myself, the lighting changing so dramatically with every shot. Cheers then!






This was a simple, sophisticated show with clean lines and infinitely wearable pieces. Jackie had drawn inspiration from the 1920s, creating elongated silhouettes with jackets and dresses that were a straight-up-and-down fashion, adding an element of androgyny. The collection launched with crisp all-white pieces, progressing into a cool peach and a rich cobalt blue, breaking up this presentation nicely.

Real care and attention had been invested in the materials – strong cottons were teamed with high-gloss elements and embossed features, giving a strong futuristic aesthetic. The firmness of the fabrics allowed them to be folded like origami, adding a further contemporary element.


J. JS Lee S/S 2012, illustrated by Phoebe Kirk

While this wasn’t mind-blowing, it was refreshing to see such a considered collection. Beautiful choices in both colour and materials suggest a fashionable future for J. JS Lee.

Watch the full show here:

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