Jasper Garvida SS 2012 illustrated by Emma Block
Some may think that having previewed this Spring/Summer 2012 collection in my recent London Fashion Week interview with Jasper Garvida would have dampened my excitement about the show, as I’d already seen it all, right? Let me tell you, I was more excited than a teenage girl turning up to her first dance (with cute boys and everything). Having chatted to the warm and sensitive Jasper about his collection, learning about the process and inspiration that went into it, I couldn’t wait to see it modelled on the catwalk at the luxurious Bloomsbury Hotel, which was a nice little break from the rush of Somerset House.
All photography by Amelia Gregory
A restricted colour palette of black and white served as the perfect backdrop to what Jasper loves: his intricate hand-embellished details and natural ability to make feminine garments without them being saccharine sweet and over-the-top. For this collection, the silver and gold detailing as well as the circular prints were inspired by a painting that gave the collection it’s name: ‘Autour d’un Point’ by František Kupka.
Jasper Garvida S/S 2012 illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins
Hemlines were either above the knee or down to the floor in a series of futuristic-meets-delicate dresses. Jasper showed off his sense of how to flatter the figure without showing too much (as opposed to recurring the boob and nipple-flashing trend that seemed to emerge this London Fashion Week).
Circular metallic panels made from silver and gold leather created beautiful frames for the shoulders, neckline and hips, as well as sequins cleverly folded and sewn in rows to look like heavy studding without all the extra weight. Perfect for the likes of socialite Lady Victoria Hervey, Katie Melua and MTV presenter Laura Whitmore who all atended the show and would most likely rather not be carrying a ton in studs while presenting the latest Lady Gaga video, attending an event or dancing around on stage. Two pieces that caught my eye (especially as I’d felt how surprisingly butter-soft and light they were in the studio) were the distressed silver and gold raincoat and a black dress with ‘studded’ gold pockets. I could already see many a celebrity stylist clamoring for the attention-grabbing yet wearable collection.
Jasper Garvida S/S 2012 illustrated by Charlotte Hoyle
Fashion editor legend Diana Vreeland was the other main influence for Jasper and his S/S 2012, as he loves her individual sense of style (I’d also recommend watching some of her old interviews online, her bonkers and overly-dramatic way of talking fashion is second-to-none) and passion for the exotic. He was also inspired by her innate way of mixing contrasts, which he explored in this collection, creating garments that are hard yet soft and feminine with a strong silhouette thanks to defined silhouettes which reminded me a little of Jean Paul Gaultier and his strong definition of femininity.
As each model walked past I couldn’t help smiling with pride for Jasper. Details like pockets that stood away and out from the body perfectly aligned with the hips, and the last few dresses completely made from sequins to create a shimmering disco-ball effect got some audible squeals of joy. Sparkle and sequins can go so wrong so easily, but in the hands of Jasper and his team they became wearable and breathtaking without making the models look like they got ready for a New Year’s Eve party months too early. The dresses looked comfortable, and the workmanship shone through as I inspected how well-stitched the sequins were, even catching a glimpse of myself reflected in the dress.
Jasper Garvida S/S 2012 illustrated by Charlotte Hoyle
Jasper is serious about well-made clothes (perhaps a couture line would be appropriate in the future) and it shows. I would however have liked to see the look pushed even further with a shoe or jewellry collaboration to compliment the outfits, imagining how incredible a pair of disco-ball Jasper Garvida shoes would look like with one of his tailored black or white dresses. Although in terms of completing the look, it has to be said that the hair suited the collection perfectly; a modern version of a Diana Vreeland-eque strong and high hairstyle sculpted into place with a lot of backcombing.
The Garvida crowd strike a pose
Our very own contributing writer Akeela Bhattay getting that perfect shot
When the show was over, Laura Whitmore and Lady Victoria Harvey both stayed to congratulate him, gushing over the collection (Laura has been a Jasper Garvida fan for a few seasons). I’m sure Jasper will also be getting more mentions, as the Head of Fashion at the Evening Standard, Maurice Mullen also attended the show, and many a blogger and editor hung around to get a snippet of what went into the collection. In-between socialites and TV presenters and other well-wishers I managed to give the beaming Jasper a quick congratulatory hug, safe in the knowledge that I’d already had the mother of all chats about the collection with him in the studio over a nice cup of tea.
Akeela Bhattay, Alia Gargum, Amelia Gregory, Charlotte Hoyle, Diana Vreeland, Emma Block, Frantisek Kupka, Gareth A Hopkins, jasper garvida, John Paul Gaultier, Katie Melua, Lady Gaga, Lady Victoria Hervey, Laura Whitmore, London Fashion Week, Maurice Mullen, monochrome, MTV, Nipples, pattern, S/S 2012, Sequins, Somerset House, The Bloomsbury Hotel, The Evening Standard, Womenswear
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