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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Ones To Watch

Vauxhall Fashion Scout's seasonal platform for new talent was brimming with popularity and, despite some um-ing and ah-ing, delivered a couple of essential names-to-note for the future! Showing on Friday 16th September 2011 at Freemasons Hall.

Written by Georgia Takacs

Phoebe English 2 by Joana Faria Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2011
Phoebe English S/S 2012 by
Joana Faria

The runways rows at Fashion Scout were packed to their peak for Ones To Watch this season. And after a sneaky trip backstage (to use their loo!) and a run-in with a very dismissive blonde girl, I managed to squeeze myself into the front row. Ones To Watch has become an important platform for rising designers to make their way to the international fashion stage. Four new faces – Phoebe English, Alice Lee, Shao Yen and Malene Oddershede Bach – were showcasing their talent in the form of a mini-collection and there was a certain buzz in the air about what these new talents had produced.

Phoebe English by Joana Faria Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2011
Phoebe English S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

First up was Phoebe English. Whatever the opinion on her chosen style, the garments had to have taken eons to produce. Immensely dense, tightly-packed folds of fabric in either cream or black. There was certainly a high level of textile skill involved, yes. But to me, with boxy and unflattering garments that bore no real dress-making credibility, the concept itself seemed lazy. It would be interesting to know what inspired and went into the collection. On face value alone, however, I wasn’t blown away.

Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-010
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-016
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-025
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Strangely enough, the dismissive blonde girl I had dealt with in the backstage loos turned out to be Phoebe English. Yes. I only discovered this when she took to the catwalk to take her bow at the end of her section. Awkward. (Note: There is no link between this and my indifference towards the clothes!)

Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Next was Shao Yen. This Central Saint Martins graduate had gone for a colour choice of gold and black, inspired by ‘the photos of prostitutes that an American photographer took in the 1980s and 90s’ as he told the Central News Agency. Hence the amount of boob flashing, I guess.


Ones to Watch Shao Yen SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Shao Yen SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Shao Yen SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Most looks were slim, elongated blends of different textures – both sheer (for extra boob-revealing action) and covering satin. Different body-parts were sexily revealed in each look – a leg or an arm and shoulder – giving an interesting aesthetic appeal. Some models wore strange big black spindly hats, almost witch-like, and one poor girl struggled to keep hers on as she paced the catwalk.






There was imagination and a certain greatness in Shao Yen‘s conceptualising, showing room for more in years to come. One thing I couldn’t get my head around, however, was the purposeful unfinished look. A layer of gold netting, seemingly gluegunned onto an un-hemmed gold dress? Nuh uh. Not for me.

Alice Lee by Joana Faria Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2011
Alice Lee by Joana Faria 1 London Fashion Week LFW S/S 2012
Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

My complaints die down for the last two Ones to Watch designers – Alice Lee and Malene Oddershede Bach (what a mouthful) – who both shone in terms of innovation, skill and wearability.

Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory

Alice Lee‘s knits were tight-fitting with sexy v-neck cuts and integrated patent chains (which I loved) hence they’re womanly wearibility. Sitting on the front-row, I was close enough to see the garment detail and the quality of the dress-making was undisputed. Models wore circular headpieces that I couldn’t help but match to Princess LeiaStar Wars inspiration? Quite possibly!




Alice Lee by Claire Kearns Ones To Watch London Fashion Week LFW S/S 2012
Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

In Malene Oddershede Bach‘s colour-popping collection stood my favourite outfit of the whole of Day 1. For a designer just starting out, she’d produced a very impressive balance of thematics, individuality and bang-on trends. In her collaboration of intense turquoise and fluoro yello, something very addictive was created. Classic ladylike dresses blended from the yellow to turquoise, top to bottom, delicate snakeskin to full-on circular python print. Outstandingly beautiful. In my opinion, it stood out miles amongst the other desginers, although I stand firm in feeling Alice Lee perhaps looked the more accomplished designer in the group.

Malene Oddershede Bach by Claire Kearns LFW Ones to Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

Malene Oddershede Bach 2 by Phoebe Kirk Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.



Ones to Watch Malene Oddershede Bach SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Malene Oddershede Bach SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Malene Oddershede Bach 1 by Phoebe Kirk Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.


Malene Oddershede Bach 3 by Phoebe Kirk Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk

Ones to Watch Malene Oddershede Bach SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory



With Lee and Oddershede Bach, I feel Ones To Watch was very appropriately named. I won’t be forgetting their names any time soon and I’ll be keeping a firm eye on them for the future. And Malene, I would gladly purchase that strong-shouldered cape and top combination any day. So do contact me if it’s up for sale; I can tell you’re gonna go far!

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  1. [...] Read the article and see all the pictures in Amelia’s Magazine. [...]

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