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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: KTZ

Could one of my favourite labels top their A/W 2011 outing? KTZ sought inspiration from Africa this season, showing as part of the Menswear line-up at Somerset House on Wednesday 21 September.

Written by Matt Bramford


KTZ S/S 2012 by Krister Selin

So this is my final fashion week post, more about for this season at least. If you’ve read all my others (of course you have) you might have picked up that I’m no big fan of monstrous queues and the hoo-hah that is mandatory before any show can start. Well there were plenty of both at this KTZ show. Christ, thumb the queue was dreadful – so many coloured dots and so many ‘do-you-know-who-I-ams’. I’m pretty certain that some attendees do a Ryman raid a week before and smuggle as many options in their oversized handbags as possible.


KTZ S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

But, order I shan’t go on about the queue (too much) this time, for that’s not what I’ll remember this breathtaking KTZ outing for. Last season, their Pop Art/Mondrian/Memphis collection blew me away; it was going to be an enormous challenge for Koji Maruyama, Sasko Bezovski and Marjan Pejoski to better that this time around.


Photography by Matt Bramford

This season’s inspiration came from Africa, and in particular, Maasai, infused with punk. A bit of a difference to A/W 2011 I’m sure you’ll agree, but an interesting step nonetheless. The opening bars of the Chemical BrothersIT BEGAN IN AFRIIKKKA blasted from the sound system as a gorgeous model appeared from the entrance, above which a hand-carved KTZ logo had been erected. The first portion of the collection featured oversized organza bows in an 80s black/pink tone, afixed onto slim-fitting trousers and short dresses, evoking thoughts of 1980s bridesmaids meringues in the best possible way.


Photography by Amelia Gregory

The jewellery was phenomenal: Nilotic beading constructed into large hoops and long horizontal pieces draped from ears, while necklines of dresses were hidden with row after row of beaded necklaces in bright colours.


KTZ S/S 2012 by Krister Selin

As the collection progressed, the sex factor increased to levels normally associated with films bought in brown paper bags, with intricate harnesses created in leather that began as accessories and morphed into full ensembles, enveloping bodies in a futuristic fashion. Gents wore these with large sunglasses and little else, solely for the purpose of showing off their muscular bodies. For the ladies, these leather creations had been teamed with lace veils with exotic gold embellishments to an ethereal end.


KTZ S/S 2012 by Naomi Law

As was last season, the womenswear stood out the most, but after a sea of suits and classic tailoring, KTZ are a welcome feature of the menswear schedule and long may it continue. The menswear feels like a bit of an add-on, influenced by the already existing womenswear. This is not to say that it’s any less interesting or creative, mind. Elements of hip-hop in baseball caps and teddy jackets referenced more black culture, worn with combat shorts and intricate leather sandals.


Photography by Matt Bramford

Maasai geometric prints in wheat and coral colours provided a wearable aspect to this daring collection, and shown anywhere else would no doubt go down well, but there was so much more on offer.


KTZ S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

The finale, an a-line frock embellished with a million coloured beads, was sure to affirm KTZ as one of the most creative fashion labels, should any member of the audience had doubted it before now.


Photography by Amelia Gregory

I can’t say I enjoyed it as much as last season, and the PR girl wearing one of my favourite pieces (an almost floor-length monochrome striped jacket with an enormous red plastic cuff) reminded me of the genius of that A/W 2011 outing. But then, I’m not sure anything will top that spectacle. This was still an exciting progression, and one of my favourite shows this season by a fashion mile.


Photography by Matt Bramford

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