There was much expectation and hype around Steve J and Yoni P’s SS08 collection, as they purposely chose not to disclose any hints as to what to expect from the collection: on the recycled paper invite only the print of a carrot and a cabbage. What were we to expect this time from the talented duo?
These two Korean designers have spread their wings: and fast. From their success last collection inspired by Tibetan imagery and street nomads, Steve J and Yoni P managed to come up with a quirky and beautifully made collection full of textural volume and colour contrasts. They drew inspiration from African agriculturalists, but this naturalistic concept was reinterpreted in an innovative and humorous way with the inclusion of contrasting futuristic elements.
The womenswear seemed to take life with organic shapes that metamorphosed from tiny pleats and gathers into twists and turns of fabric flowing rhythmically throughout the fitted silhouettes. Natural cottons and silk on neutral beiges and greens were highlighted by bright yellow and orange details on more plastic textures. Hand sewn details typical of African craftsmanship were included throughout the collection, knitting and embroidery in particular. The accessories are also to look out for: sexy knee-high gladiator sandals on white and bright orange and hats with feathers soaring up to the sky.
The menswear was particularly playful, with relaxed cuts in rich natural fabrics and lots of fun details: huge wooden buttons, parachute straps and plastic buckles all put together in the designers’ typical ‘beautiful chaos’ philosophy. Contrasting colours and textures dissected the top and bottom of many of the suits, with earthy colours and natural textures on the jackets and bright yellows in shiny plastic fabrics on the shorts and trousers. Overall, a delight to watch, I was glad London is still home of some of the more experimental designers.
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Agree.. These are some of the -precious- few designers in London Fashion Week that are actually prioritising free experimentation over the commercial side fashion… Love the menswear!!!