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Ones to Watch Men: Joseph Turvey and Bodybound: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Menswear Catwalk Review

In the second of our Ones to Watch Men reports, check out Joseph Turvey's wonderfully illustrated collection and Bodybound's buff blokes. Hubba hubba! It was a hive of talent at Fashion Scout on Wednesday 22 February…

Written by Matt Bramford

Bodybound A/W 2012 by Tom Colmans

It’s funny – I woke up on London Fashion Week‘s menswear day thinking ‘I would love to see a man in a gold lamé trenchcoat today’. Thank heavens for Kim Choong-Wilkins and his label Bodybound, for my wish came true.

Bodybound A/W 2012, courtesy of Bodybound

All photography by Matt Bramford

Bodybound was part of the line-up for this season’s Ones to Watch Men, and he dazzled the audience with his futuristic collection. Kim took inspiration from Aldous Huxley’s Brave New World, and films including Blade Runner and 2001: A Space Odyssey.

Kim challenges the constraints of a uniform while at the same time producing playful interpretations of what an Orwellian future might hold, fashion-wise. Bodybound‘s collection was one of the most visually stimulating, engaging with fabrics with high-aesthetic appeal. The first model wore aforementioned gold trenchcoat, embossed with an ambiguous chain pattern: his hair slicked back and his eyebrows painted white.

Kim also wants to challenge the ideals of social uniforms – he cites golfing jumpers as an example that have become synonymous with ‘keeping up appearances’. This translated into jumpers with argyle patterns created from metal rivets rather than a weave – the perfect combination of his two concepts. More metallic fabrics followed, with glossy scarves and gold visors. A cropped gold leather jacket could have easily been a suit of armour, and a military-inspired two-piece suit with transparent belt reinterpreted 1984 for the future.

As if that wasn’t futuristic enough, out came a model in a transparent plastic jacket and shorts held up by braces, wearing only grey marl briefs underneath. I think Kim’s a lot further in the future than I am, and if this is what my senior years hold then I am spending the rest of my life in the gym.

This rather unusual form of dress did translate into a trench coat and a poncho – definitely still one for the fashion-forward gent, but wearable in a perverse sort of way. It was an exciting collection, full of fresh ideas, innovation and expert craftsmanship – a collection I won’t forget in a hurry.

Illustration from Joseph Turvey A/W 2012, courtesy of Joseph Turvey

I did a small squeal with excitement when I saw that Amelia’s Magazine contributor and menswear designer Joseph Turvey was part of this season’s Ones to Watch Men line-up. I loved Joe’s BA collection so much that I interviewed him afterwards, so it’s grand to see him on such a prestigious stage, where class acts like Peter Pilotto, William Tempest, Felder Felder and David Koma began their seasonal showcases.

Joe actually closed the show and, without bias, it’s safe to say that the producers had saved the best ’til last. Beyoncé’s Run the World (Girls) played and I knew we were in for a treat. Beginning with what looked like an ordinary (but well-tailored) coral trench, the model turned to reveal a laser-cut translucent back (of the jacket, not the model himself). A brighter orange version followed, with another surprise in store – a Joe Turvey illustrated backpack.

Joe Turvey A/W 2012 by Helen Beeston

I’d seen a few previews of Joe’s illustrated numbers – namely the crisp white shirt with an illustration of a man wearing gingham that continued to the trousers, but I had no idea that he had such a fascination with texture, too. Striped pieces, alternating between neon lace and translucent mesh were some the most innovative pieces I’d seen all week, as were lazer-cut floral blazers in hot pink. I also loved the subtle elegance of another illustrated suit – were a figure looks idly to the side of a t-shirt, the trousers becoming the figure’s upper body.

Models were styled with zingy neon sandals which complimented each outfit exquisitely. You would be forgiven for thinking that Joe had been in the business for seasons – this did not look like a collection from a recent MA graduate. If there was ever One to Watch, it would be Joe.

Illustration from Joseph Turvey A/W 2012, courtesy of Joseph Turvey

All photography by Matt Bramford


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