London Fashion Week Illustration by teabelle
This September London Fashion Week enters the courtyard of Somerset House for its third season. Over the next week Amelia’s Magazine will be previewing both the on and off schedules, naming the designers to firmly keep your eyes on.
For our first preview we have selected designers who have been showing solo for less than six seasons and have already caused quite a stir within the fashion industry.
You may already be aware of Hannah Marshall’s darkly bold shapes without being aware that you are watching a Hannah Marshall in Florence and the Machine’s music video: The Drumming Song. As an introduction it does not prepare you for the exquisite inkiness of Marshall’s colour palate or embrace of the female figure her clothes propose.
Hannah Marshall by Naomi Law
Watching her S/S 2010 show in an old post office building in Holborn, was breathtaking. As the models stalked through the space, the inky blue effervesced in the dim lighting. Marshall’s A/W 2010 named ‘An Army of Me’ was a continuation of stark cuts along the shoulders, waists enhanced or lost by the cut of jacket alongside bodycon dresses produced in luscious velvet.
Mary Katrantzou has been experimenting with the boundary pushing possibilities of digital print since her A/W show 2009. The occasional harshness of the prints are softened through Katrantzou’s application of the technique to silk.
The collections are a celebration of the decorative and her clothes are littered with references to the excess of the Baroque or the Rocco periods of art and architectural history.
Mary Katrantzou by Meeralee
However it would be a mistake to confuse these prints as a gimmick, Katrantzou’s interest spreads to the cut of the dress, producing a series of structural tailoring which serve embellish the texture of her designs from short frocks to elegant gowns. Amelia’s Magazine welcomes the break from the increasing dominance of minimalism.
Michael van der Ham
Michael Van Der Ham’s described his a/w 2010 collection of dresses as 3D collages, through which multiple fashion references were stated by an insatiable contrast of colours, fabrics and textures. During graduate season earlier this year his design influence could be felt across the catwalks. What will s/s 2011 bring for van der Haam?
Michael van der Ham by Lulu Biazus
Central Saint Martins MA Graduate, Louise Gray was a recipient of Lulu Kennedy’s and Fashion East’s ever on the button talent for spotting innovative designers. Gray showed with Fashion East for three seasons, before staging solo presentations with the support of NewGen.
A Louise Gray exhibition begins life at London Fashion Week almost completely bare, before exploding in riotious colour as the exquisite detritus from her presentations fill the space. The clothes, a combination of traditional stitch and embroidery create intriguing collections.
Louise Gray by Jessica Stokes
Amelia’s Magazine’s are delighted by Gray’s decision to stage the collection on a catwalk at On|Off for S/S 2011.
David Koma and Holly Fulton
For S/S 2011 Holly Fulton and David Koma. will share a catwalk, Amelia’s Magazine have been watching Koma since his debut as Fashion Scout’s merit winner a year ago this September and cannot wait to see what the designer holds in store.
David Koma by Stuart Whitton
Holly Fulton first blasted onto the scene as part of Fashion East for two seasons, before launching her successful solo a/w 10 collection at London Fashion Week in February 2010. Fulton’s monochromatic colour palate was interspersed with a healthy dose of pop art.
Holly Fulton by Francesca Bourne
The clothes structure referenced the Fulton’s interest in off duty/on duty French daywear crossed with the elegance of Dr Zavargo. Amelia’s Magazine found ourselves bewitched by the bold graphic prints bordering on the illustrative that adorned the collection.
For ten incredible years Fashion East have been at the forefront of spotting and supporting graduates who develop into ‘the’ sought-after designers of our generation.
Heikki by Gemma Randall
The excitement of a Fashion East catwalk lies in their ability to reinvent what it is to be feminine and this season is no exception.
For a/w 2010 Heikki Salone presented the tomboy, dressed in black cobwebbed knitwear, that you would wear until it crumbles finished with DM boots. A look -potentially- for fans of Janey from MTV’s hit TV series Daria.
Felicity Brown and Simone Rocha by Gareth A Hopkins
Felicity Brown’s delectable designs are a lesson in vibrant romanticism, a feat not surprising considering her training at Alberta Ferretti, Loewe, Lanvin and Mulberry.
In contrast Simone Rocha’s monochrome MA collection displayed structured modern cuts interspersed with a playful nod towards femininity by her inclusion of netted fuchsia headpieces.
Amelia’s Magazine wait with baited breath to see all of the aforementioned designers collections for s/s 2011.
BFC, David Koma, Fashion East, Felicity Brown, Francesca Bourne, Gareth A Hopkins, Gemma Randall, Hannah Marshall, Heikki Salone, Holly Fulton, Jessica Stokes, lfw, London Fashion Week, Louise Gray, Lulu Biazus, Lulu Kennedy, Mary Katrantzou, Meeralee, Michael van der Ham, Naomi Law, On Schedule, Simone Rocha, Stuart Whitton, Teabell, teabelle
- London Fashion Week A/W 2010: Holly Fulton
- London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton
- London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton (reprise)
- British Fashion Designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia A/W 2011: Louise Gray
- London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Hannah Marshall