Amelia’s Magazine | Min Wu: Ones to Watch S/S 2015 London Fashion Week Preview

Min Wu by Karolina Burdon
Min Wu A/W 2014 by Karolina Burdon.

I’ve been keeping an eye on Chinese born London College of Fashion alumni Min Wu for some seasons now, ever since I picked out her work at the 2013 LCF MA graduate show, held at the illustrious Royal Opera House. She’s already done a few presentations with Fashion Scout but this season she will be on the catwalk as one of Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. I caught up with her for a quick sneak preview of what to expect this season.

Min Wu AW 2014
Min Wu A/W 2014.

What or who are the biggest influences on your approach to fashion?
My approach has developed with my life experience, alongside the article that I have read or the exhibitions that I have been. I like to keep moving forward.

Where do you get inspiration for your subtle colour combinations from?
I get inspired by photographs and paintings, then use drawings to translate my ideas into my own language. I try many different combinations until I find the best one.


Min Wu S/S 2015 preview
Min Wu S/S 2015 preview
Min Wu S/S 2015 preview.

What can we expect from your new season collection?
I used some light jelly fabric which kind of looks yummy.


You are adept with merging the high tech with the traditional, have you ever encountered any issues with this approach?
Issues aways appears when you try to do something interesting, but up until now I have handled it well. Both high tech and traditional techniques come at a high cost, but I have been trying very hard to work this out.


You’ve been presenting at LFW for a few seasons now, what have you learnt over that period?
Definitely, it is such a precious experience to work with a team members, and I am constantly learning about how to catch the attention of press and also make buyers and customers happy. I am still learning.

Categories ,Chinese, ,Fashion Scout, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London College of Fashion, ,Min Wu, ,Ones To Watch, ,Royal Opera House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Renli Su: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch, London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Renli Su S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns
Renli Su S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Coming up last but by no means least, Chinese designer Renli Su took a very different approach to fashion as one of Ones to Watch. With high aims to create ‘garments that retain physical traces of their past in order to form an intrinsic bond with the wearer‘ her new season collection examined the connection between the lives of working class women in the Victorian era, and the clothes they wore. This translated into a series of earthy toned garments that had more than a touch of the peasant in their boxy shapes, bunched hems, and trailing ribbon ties. The collection was made from a selection of entirely organic fibres, with purposefully loosened hems and distressed seams designed to age appealingly when worn with love over many years. Bonnet inspired headwear, detachable hoods and light weight leg warmers were hand crafted in crochet and knit. This was a sweet collection with some appealing ideas and a big heart at the centre of it all.

Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Renli Su with her fellow Ones to Watch. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Ecofashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Ones To Watch, ,organic, ,Renli Su

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Amelia’s Magazine | Min Wu: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Presentation Review

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Min Wu is yet another of the super talented Chinese designers who are training in London and going on to showcase their collections at London Fashion Week. Min Wu gained an MA at London College of Fashion last year, and her Atmosphere and Automation presentation built on the clean lines and sculptural embellishments of her final MA collection. It also used the same eye catching ombre shading, this time on wool separates and mesh fabric crafted into both boxy and blouson shapes. The models wore their hair in intricate plaits, offset by huge swinging bead earrings.

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Briony Jose

Min Wu A/W 2014 by Briony Jose.

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Min Wu AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Atmosphere and Automation, ,Briony Jose, ,Chinese, ,London College of Fashion, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Min Wu, ,Slowly the Eggs

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Shenzhen Deng Hao

Fashion Shenzhen-Haiping Xie by Phoebe Kirk
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Phoebe Kirk.

There was a palpable sense of energy in the air as I walked into the hall and the lights dimmed for the first of two designers from Fashion Shenzhen. First up: Deng Hao. Special guests included the extravagant performance artist Pandemonia.

Pandemonia Shenzhen Exhibition by Natie Marie
Pandemonia by Natie Marie.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
FASHION SHENHEN_DENG HAO_GEMMATRAVIS
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Gemma Travis.

The music was pumping, information pills the models’ hair slicked back into buns, malady the make-up gold and shimmery with smokey eyeliner. Deng Hao named this collection Flower Devil – GuRan Oriental Scarlet, inspired by Islamic mosques and Chinese temples.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
Fashion_Shenzen_DENG HAO by Caragh_Jackson
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Caragh Jackson.

The collection featured the finest of woven materials and sheer knitwear, embroidered with gems and jewels in shapes of flowers or diamonds, on the collar, sleeves or sharp shoulders.

Sam_Parr_Shenzhen_Deng Hao_WEB
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Sam Parr.

The influence of Islamic architecture was very subtle, with emblems, repeating patterns and borders of the kind that might be seen in holy places. Such symbols were woven and incorporated into the knitwear or onto sheer materials on panels and skirts.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
Shenzhen Dress Deng Hao by Nicola Ellen
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Nicola Ellen.

The bolero jackets, draped sleeves, flamenco style skirts and mermaid tails with multiple frills were European in influence and there were also skin tight dresses with halter necks or sleeveless, worn with leggings or harem pants to enhance the female silhouette. The pieces were incredibly feminine and flirty but still maintained elements of Chinese heritage; I particularly loved the colourful blend of royal reds and blues with hints of viridian green and maroon.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk
All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

Shenzhen Deng Hao by Nicola Ellen
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Nicola Ellen.

Watch the full video of the Deng Hao catwalk show and see what you think. Next up, Haiping Xie.

Categories ,Bolero, ,Caragh Jackson, ,China, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Deng Hao, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Flamenco, ,florals, ,Gemma Travis, ,Grand Connaught Rooms, ,Haiping Xie, ,Harem, ,illustrators, ,Islamic, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,knitwear, ,Leggings, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Pandemonia, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Sam Parr, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Shenzhen Haiping Xie

Sam_Parr_Haiping Xie_Shenzhen Yellow
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Sam Parr.

Following the catwalk show from Deng Hao there was a brief interlude with a video from the Shenzhen Tourist Board and then I was delighted to see the collection of Haiping Xie in motion. An oriental version of La Vie en Rose played in the background as Xie’s models came out in metallic bronze make-up with their hair styled in blunt bowl cuts covered in printed bandanas.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Fashion_Shenzen_Haiping Xie_by Caragh_Jackson
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Caragh Jackson.

The atmospheric abstract prints were similar to the ones I had seen at the exhibition, buy information pills with an appealing grainy quality. They featured colourful iconography from Chinese mythology and butterflies that enticed us into an Oriental garden on a spring day. There were lots of textures in this collection; exaggerated tiers of ruffles on skirts, price sheer neon yellow underskirts, cheap feather-like shrugs, pure white and cyan tulle, taffeta and rosettes.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Fashion Shenzhen Haiping Xie by Claire Kearns
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhe by Clarie Kearns.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion-Shenzhen-by-Debbie-Ajia
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Debbie Ajia.

As with Deng Hao, traditional garments were juxtaposed with European style dress such as skater skirts, chain halter necks, swing dresses and an exaggerated Spanish flamenco style dress as the main finale. This was a bold, bright and bouncy show but I felt the Shenzhen heritage and mystique was slightly lost underneath the many prints and textures – I preferred the traditional dresses at the exhibition.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk
All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

Nevertheless it was very interesting to see how Deng Hao and Haiping Xie have created their own ways of uniting western and eastern cultures together.

Watch the full video of the catwalk show and see what you think. Don’t forget to check out my review of the Deng Hao show too.

Categories ,Awakening, ,Caragh Jackson, ,China, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Debbie Ajia, ,Deng Hao, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Gemma Travis, ,Haiping Xie, ,illustrators, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,La Vie en Rose, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Pandemonia, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Sam Parr, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Exhibition Review: Fashion Shenzhen

Haiping Xie- Shenzhen Exhibition by Claire Kearns
Haiping Xie at the Fashion Shenzhen Exhibition by Claire Kearns.

I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived at the Grand Connaught Rooms for the Fashion Shenzhen exhibition. When I did arrive, order I found it a far cry from Somerset House. The exhibition consisted of stalls from designers, manufacturing companies and brands from Shenzhen, fashion capital of China.

Shenzhen Exhibition
All Photography by June Chanpoomidole.

With the tweed squared pattern carpet and white banner metallic stalls, it looked and felt like a corporate event. Nevertheless, I found many examples of interesting Chinese design on display.

Omnialuo-Shenzhen Exhibition by Nicola Ellen
Omnialuo Silk Oriental Handbag by Nicola Ellen.

Omnialuo-Shenzhen Exhibtion by Fuad Ali
Omnialuo by Fuad Ali.

The style of Omnialuo is luxurious, romantic and noble, with a touch of elegance derived from 1940s Shanghai. Green and black silk loose skirts and tops are styled with brush calligraphy. Chinese style tops and an elegant black evening dress feature lotus flower motifs. This is what I dream of seeing in the UK High Street stores.

Nuit Blanche-Shenzhen-Exhibtion
Nuit Blanche-Shenzhen Exhibition by Natie Marie
Nuit Blanche by Natie Marie.

I loved the red felt dress by Nuit Blanche, a Swedish designer who is popular in both Sweden and China.

Awakening-Shenzhen Exhibition Pamplet
Actual Pamphlet given to me at the Exhibition.

I was given a pamphlet by Awakening, which was more like a loving plea to think about where the materials we wear come from, ‘to love Animals and love planet Home.’ The text was endearing without the use of horrific imagery or the need to ram the message home to the reader, which was very effective.

Awakening dress-Shenzhen Exhibition
Sam_Parr_Awakening Shenzhen Exhibition  LFW SS12
Awakening by Sam Parr.

So I had a look at their stall. Their clothing is made of ethically sourced and recycled materials, such as newspapers and polyester. To promote loving, eco friendly fashion, the brand aims to ‘awaken’ people’s consciousness to treasure all kinds of life and to maintain a healthy sustainable lifestyle.

Awakening-LFW Shenzhen Exhibition By Kassie Berry
Awakening by Kassie Berry.

I really loved the cuts and use of recyclable materials, especially the waterfall dress with prints of animals. The designs were made to prompt consideration for our planet Earth, with waterfalls engulfing swans and the cut of the fabric mimicking the shapes of rivers.

MyMo-Shenzhen-Exhibtion
MyMo dress-Shenzhen-Exhibtion
The name of the My Mo brand immediately caught my eye and the manager explained to me that the name is abbreviated from My Moment, as the collection and brand is based around the concept of an office girl, who can customise the look to suit work and play, to shine and have their ‘moment.’ It’s a simple but effective concept for the modern practical women.

MyMo-Shenzhen exhibition-by-Nicola-Rowlands
My Mo by Nicola Rowlands.

The collection had a light, delicate look with sheer, neutral and nude tones, which could easily be customised with a vest top or a tailored jacket. The grey dress with red and white lines and repeat diamond patterns reminded me of the kind of dress that is worn for tennis or running, but the cut and draping was more flattering around the bust and hips. Grey can be dreary during the summer, so a hint of red and white reveals some personality in the office.

HaipingXie-Shenzhen-Exhibtion
I have had such love for traditional Chinese dresses ever since watching Kar Wai Wong’s In the Mood for Love. The prints on Haiping Xie dresses were atmospheric, consisting of dragons’ emblems, lotuses, the moon goddess and even the Great Wall of China. The grainy quality of the prints reminded me of historic daytime Chinese Drama shows I used to see in Thailand. This was a colourful collection of dresses, with strong reds and yellows, which I would love in my wardrobe. I was very happy to see more of Haiping Xie on the catwalk later that day.

Ambassador-Shenzhen Exhibition
There was a surprise visit to the Fashion Shenzhen exhibition from ambassador of China Liu Xiaoming and his wife, Hu Pinghua, who looked incredibly elegant and could definitely give Samantha Cameron a run for her money.

Shenzhen Exhibition-Presentation
Despite the corporate environment I could see beyond it to the real purpose of exhibition. Shenzhen is a young city. Around 32 years ago, it used to be a small fishing village and has now been transformed into an advanced modern metropolis. Shenzhen was the first city in China to open itself up to the outside world, and has ever since been at the forefront of China’s economic reform. Exposed to Western fashion styles, Shenzhen has also absorbed influences and trends from across China. It is within Shenzhen that Chinese fashion has found its feet, so it’s no surprise that the city’s talent is now being shown off to the international community. Xiaoming described Fashion Shenzhen as nurturing both a ’traditional and creative culture,’ and this was definitely apparent in the designs that I saw around the exhibition.

The presentation by the Ambassador was incredibly dignified, after which he guided us to the adjoining building where Vauxhall Fashion Scout is held, ready to see the catwalk show….

Categories ,Awakening, ,China, ,China Liu Xiaoming, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Deng Hao, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Fuad Ali, ,Grand Connaught Rooms, ,Haiping Xie, ,Hu Pinghua, ,illustrators, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Kassie Berry, ,Liu Xiaoming, ,London Fashion Week, ,My Mo, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nuit Blanche, ,Omnialuo, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Huishan Zhang: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink.

New twitter mini film app Vine was embraced by the more social media savvy end of the fashion crowd at London Fashion Week: the six second looping films proving perfect to give an immediate moving idea of the shows that a static picture sometimes struggles to put across. Bright catwalk lights tend to wash out un-metered image creation, so I found Vine worked best at the more inventive presentations that I attended. One such show was that put on by Central Saint Martins graduate Huishan Zhang, a Chinese born designer who has interned within the hallowed atelier of the Dior couturiers. Take a peek below:

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan-Zang-AW-2013-Illustration-by-Shy-Illustrations
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Shy Illustrations.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink.

For A/W 2013 Huishan Zhang melded Eastern and Western influences in a supremely subtle and modern way: Mondrian-esque stripes and colour blocks were merged with delicate overlays of lace and glitter panels to create 60s inspired A-line shift dresses. These shapes echoed the Chinese Mao suit that was worn by everyone in 60s China, but the sparkling addition of Swarovski sponsored panels of crystals made them dinner party desirable for now. High waist tapered trousers felt modern paired with swing back crop jackets, whilst contrasting lace appliqués and peek-a-boo pleats provided additional interest. This was a wonderfully clever collection; definitely one of my new designers to watch.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Categories ,60s, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Chinese, ,Dior, ,Dom & Ink, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Huishan Zhang, ,lace, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mao suit, ,Mondrian, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Swarovski, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Vine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ji Cheng: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Ji Cheng AW 2012 by Geiko Louve

Ji Cheng A/W 2012 by Geiko Louve

Chinese designer Ji Cheng’s first show in London was held at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on Tuesday 21st February, the last day of London Fashion Week’s womenswear. Jumping ahead of the queue I had a chance to examine my front row goody bag – a proper mini version of some of the bags that later appeared on the catwalk designed by Ji Cheng, not a tote! – and to look through the slides projected on the wall at the start of the runway. The slides showed models dressed in Ji Cheng’s designs posing at striking Chinese landscape locations, mixing with traditional Chinese life activities or getting intimate with some sexy Chinese pottery makers in their workshops. Some showed traditional pots at a rough, unfinished stage that made them look more like minimal, contemporary western pottery.

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Ji Cheng A/W 2012 by Love Amelia

Indeed Ji Cheng has a passion for Chinese traditional culture, but her collection, according to her ‘combines the essence of classic Chinese art with modern Western techniques and tailoring’ and she wishes to emphasise through her work ‘the combination of Eastern and Western culture’. For example, Chinese inspired elements such as Kimono wrap dresses, short stand-up collars and thick embroidered belts were on show, but so were some minimal skirts, blouses and shirts fit for a nine-to-five job in the office.

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 by Deborah  Moon

Ji Cheng AW 2012 by Deborah Moon

The designer from Shanghai named her A/W 2012 collection Zen Awakening and one could easily see that some of the smoothly draped overlapping lines on the garments and the loose way in which they fell over the body were influenced by Zen monks’ robes and cassocks. This influence was further evident in the model who opened and closed the show, with a striking shaved head like that of a Zen monk. In the press release Ji Cheng made an effort to explain the title Zen Awakening using some rather heavy zen philosophical phraseology such as ‘thought is not thinking’ and referring to ‘higher states of unity’, which I rather enjoyed reading in relation to a fashion show.

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Somewhat relevant to the above, the colour scheme of the show was presented in groups of colours. It started with a focus on a traditional Chinese vermilion, then it moved on to more earthly, brownish hues, followed by a number of mainly white pieces, then a number of mainly black ones and finishing off with the last two numbers which had an iridescent, silver hue. In that way it was a bit like the clothes were following the developmental stages – represented by the different colour groups – of a soul on its journey towards Zen Awakening. Scattered here and there were flashes of fluorescent green or orange, like little moments of realisation along the way.

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

The pure vermilion, so characteristic of Chinese culture, did not only make an appearance on the clothes, but also on the models’ faces, whose make up was a very toned down, western version of the reddish make up applied on actors taking part in Peking Opera productions – a theme which has been an inspiration for a previous collection by Ji Cheng.

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 by Dana Bocai

Ji Cheng A/W 2012 by Dana Bocai

Quite a few of the dresses and blouses featured a very interesting back with cut out panels or huge statement bows. Some of the models carried in their hands really beautifully shaped clutch bags and the shoes had a fabric front, held in place by long ribbons which were tied around the calves in a zigzag fashion. A lot of them left the heel totally exposed, which I thought was not so fit for the modern woman.

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Ji Cheng AW 2012 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

This was a pleasant collection with an interesting philosophy behind it, so I hope to see how Ji Cheng’s brand La Vie develops over the following seasons showing in London.

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Chinese, ,Chinese Fashion, ,Chinese Opera, ,Chinese Pottery, ,Clutch Bags, ,Collars, ,Dana Bocai, ,Deborah Moon, ,Eastern, ,Embroidered, ,Fashion Design, ,Fluorescent, ,Freemason’s Hall, ,Geiko Louve, ,Goody Bag, ,Ji Cheng, ,Kerry Jones, ,Kimono, ,La Vie, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Love Amelia, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,monks, ,Peking Opera, ,Shanghai, ,Silk Blouses, ,Silks, ,Slideshow, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Vermilion, ,Western, ,Wrap Dresses, ,Zen, ,Zen Awakening, ,Zigzag

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Art Fair 2013 Review: 12 Top Picks

London Art Fair 2013 LED art
The London Art Fair hosts a bewildering variety of artist talent under one roof at the Business Design Centre. From the banal (the LED artwork above, almost identical to a gadget in the baby sensory room at my local Sure Start centre) to the dreadful (oh god, bad painting) to the sublime (pretty much anything below) to the derivative (copycat Damian Hirst Skulls-R-Us) – you can expect to find it all here. I negotiated the thronging crowds at the 2013 London Art Fair with boyfriend and baby in tow – here are my most interesting discoveries.

London Art Fair sarah woodfine
At Danielle Arnaud Sarah Woodfine had constructed an installation from MDF and cardboard. Like many of the artists that catch my eye these days she ‘explores the imaginary worlds that border the familiar and the fantastical.’ Fine pencil drawings decorate 3D shapes reminiscent of vessels.

London Art Fair 2013 Klari Reis Hypochondria installation
Klari Reis (showing with Cynthia Corbett) hails from San Francisco, where she creates wall installations from colourful epoxy polymers. Her current Hypochondria series features patterned groupings of petri dishes that appeal to my love of all things bright.

London Art Fair 2013 Nadav Kander Bodies
It was great to see one of Nadav Kander‘s Bodies photographs up close: an un-airbrushed version of the feminine that proves you can be true to reality and still utterly beautiful. You can see the whole series in his current exhibition, listing here.

London Art Fair Chris Wood
Installation artist Chris Wood works with glass and light to create enchanting works of art that caught my eye last year and again this time around.

London Art Fair 2013 Sweettoof
London Art Fair 2013 Sweettoof
I have only ever encountered Sweet Toof artworks on the walls around East London but like most contemporary street artists he also creates pieces with the fine art world in mind. His Dark Horse series features a host of scurrilous street scenes, skeletons jousting with gummy grins. His website explains that he ‘masterfully blends urban detritus with bygone decadence,’ and the results call to mind works by Jake and Dinos Chapman, especially their cheerful defamation of prized Goya drawings.

London Art Fair 2013 Ye Hongxing Scream Fine Art Utopia
I first saw works by Chinese artist Ye Hongxing at Scream late last year and was immediately drawn in by her kaleidoscopic use of kitsch stickers, used in their thousands to create Modern Utopian landscapes featuring wild animals (such as the zebra in this detail). Her work is a reaction to the swift changes taking place in Chinese culture.

London Art Fair Butch Anthony
Alabama based folk artist Butch Anthony has tapped into our love of all things skeletal; layering his own doodles on top of junk shop finds. You can see more of Butch Anthony‘s work at his new show, Intertwangleism, opening February 8th at Black Rat. ‘Intertwangleism is how I look at people and break them down to the primordial beginnings,’ explains Butch Anthony, who also hosts Doo-Nanny, his very own annual outsider folk art festival. Watch this video to find out more about the intriguing Butch Anthony.

London Art Fair 2013 Yellow Pollen by Simon Allen
The sculptor Simon Allen creates carved, polished, pigmented forms that appeal to all my tactile senses. His pollen series was featured alongside equally captivating carved metallic wooden forms.

London Art Fair 2013 Mel Bochner words
London Art Fair Mel Bochner
We recently visited the Mel Bochner exhibition at the Whitechapel Gallery, so I am familiar with his large scale typographic works. At the London Art Fair his tactile paintings featured extraordinary mounds of screen printed paint. I couldn’t peel my eyes away from the pornographic words.

London Art Fair Shane Bradford
I profiled Shane Bradford many years ago in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine: assorted objects dipped until they are heavily encrusted with glossy paint take on new symbolism and meaning.

London Art Fair Jealous Gallery Adam Dix
I listed Adam Dix‘s 2012 exhibition Programming Myth, which inspired these gorgeous gold leafed screen prints for Jealous Gallery. The images marry old fashioned imagery and a modern day fascination with technology.

London Art Fair Susie Macmurray
Susie Macmurray‘s huge installation bulged from the wall like an overgrown carbuncular growth, unapologetic in it’s vulgarity. A former classical musician, she is well known for her use of unconventional materials such as cling film.

And there you have it: my best bits from this year’s London Art Fair. To see my fave images as I see them follow me on instagram @ameliagregory.

Categories ,2013, ,Adam Dix, ,Alabama, ,art, ,Baby Sensory, ,Black Rat, ,Bodies, ,Business Design Centre, ,Butch Anthony, ,Chinese, ,Chris Wood, ,Cynthia Corbett Gallery, ,Damian Hirst, ,Danielle Arnaud, ,Dark Horse, ,Doo-Nanny, ,East London, ,Folk Art, ,Goya, ,Hypochondria, ,instagram, ,Intertwangleism, ,Islington, ,Jake and Dinos Chapman, ,Jealous Gallery, ,Klari Reis, ,LED, ,London Art Fair, ,Mel Bochner, ,Modern Utopia, ,Nadav Kander, ,Petri dishes, ,Programming Myth, ,review, ,San Francisco, ,Sarah Woodfine, ,Scream, ,Screenprints, ,sculpture, ,Shane Bradford, ,Simon Allen, ,street art, ,Sure Start, ,Susie Macmurray, ,Sweet Toof, ,Whitechapel Gallery, ,Ye Hongxing

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Amelia’s Magazine | Louise Wilkinson Illustrations and Ceramics: an interview with the designer

Louise Wilkinson ceramics- Lemon Tree dinner plate lifestyle

I first encountered Louise Wilkinson’s inimitable ceramics designs at Tent London last September, and instantly fell in love. The likes of Liberty discovered her beautiful bone china early on, and she has more recently created bespoke illustrations for panelling in the shop at the V&A. I caught up with her to find out more about her career to date, where her inspiration comes from and how she set about putting her illustrations onto china.

Louise Wilkinson ceramics- jug lifestyle

I absolutely adore your debut Maple Collection, inspired by English gardens, Oriental china and a love of nature. How did you construct the designs and how long did the process take to apply them to so many different shapes?
I like to draw a few pencil sketches first on scraps of paper and then at a later stage I draw my artworks on the computer with a pen. I love to create intricate artworks with witty details, often with a narrative. The designs are then screen printed and hand decorated in Stoke on Trent. It took many months to consider the shapes and designs together and then to fit the artworks correctly.

How do you pick the colour ways for your designs?
For my Maple Collection, I chose to have navy blue as the main colour with bold, playful, pops of colours for highlights. I often kept to two colours per design, for instance I liked the combination of a citrus yellow accent with navy blue or a coral red with navy blue.

Louise Wilkinson ceramics-Trees plate

What was the best bit about growing up in Yorkshire?
I loved growing up in the counrtyside, being able to spend a lot of time outside. We lived opposite a large field with lots of trees, me and my sister would often play and run around! I have lived in London over 10 years now, so it is nice to have the balance of London life and also visiting my family up north!

Louise Wilkinson Logo peacocks

You have already led a varied design career, studying illustration before moving into print and textiles for fashion. It sounds like the ideal career I never had! What was the highlight of those first years out of college?
I had always wanted to study Illustration so I took an Illustration degree at University. It was great to learn about the different aspects of image making, and after graduating my first job was working as an illustrator designing the prints, patterns and characters for children’s clothes, drawing everything by hand. I moved to London and worked in the fashion industry as a print and textiles designer, whilst also working on freelance book and magazine illustrations. I learnt a lot about working in different styles, techniques and applications to fabrics. It was great to get to know more about the commercial world and seasonal trends. Kids clothing is a fun area to work in!

Louise Wilkinson ceramics-Apple Tree dinner plate lifestyle

Why did you decide to create your own range and how did you effect that move?
I have been an illustrator and print and pattern designer for over a decade but I had always wanted to create my own artworks – to have a little more creative freedom and work for myself, creating timeless, playful and beautiful pieces. I launched my first collection in Liberty after attending the Best of British open day and it went from there!

Like me you are an avid fan of the illustrations found in children’s books, an aesthetic which I think comes through in your designs. Any favourites that you keep returning to?
Yes I do love children’s book illustrations, I always admired the painted collage technique used in the classic tale of The Hungry Caterpillar by Eric Carle, which is a classic. I also love Alain Gree’s cute illustrations and Russian fairy tales. I’m influenced by the traditional decorative arts, nature, exotic dreamlike places and often by different exhibitions I may visit in London. I love art and illustration, including Japanese and Chinese paintings, Matisse, Henri Rousseau, George Lepape….

Louise Wilkinson ceramics-Trees jug

What are your favourite pieces of homeware to design and why, and what is the hardest thing to design?
I love designing all the pieces, especially the plates and the cups and saucers. I like the flat surface area on a plate, which is like a blank canvas for artwork… and I like the little details you can add to cups and saucers. I’d say teapots can be harder to design for, as they are slightly more spherical.

What could we expect to find if we visited your work studio, can you describe it for us?
I am based in South East London where I have a large wooden desk with a Mac monitor and a pen tablet – it’s nice to have lots of surface area. There are lots of things around such as notebooks and pencil sketches, china samples, boxes, packing tape, bubble wrap, brochures, postcards! I have a lot of research in draws and on the walls. I also have lots of magazines and art books because I love looking in books for research rather than always using the internet. Oh and there is always a cup of tea on my desk, I drink too much!

Louise Wilkinson ceramics-Teacups

Why is it important for you to maintain strong relationships with UK suppliers?
I think its great to manufacture as much in the UK wherever possible to support the industry, and it is nice to meet the lovely team in Stoke on Trent who I work with.

When can we expect a new collection from you, and can you share any hints as to what that will be?
I will be selling my exclusive artworks which were created especially for my recent collaboration on the Christmas shop installation at the V&A. I’m also exhibiting at the Modern Show in Dulwich on March 16th 2014. I love this Mid Century design show, which it is local to where I live. I will also be exhibiting at Tent London again, during London Design Week in September.

Louise Wilkinson ceramics-Coral red plates

Do you have any plans to expand into other areas of design and if so what?
I love creating artworks and illustration and this can be applied to many different surface areas. So hopefully new things soon, I have lots of ideas.

Finally, do you have any exciting plans for 2014 – in either business or life – that you can share with us?
Hopefully a few nice trips away, perhaps to Copenhagen or Finland. I may also be getting married this year, which is exciting!

Categories ,Alain Gree, ,Best of British, ,Bone China, ,Ceramic design, ,ceramics, ,Chinese, ,Designer Maker, ,Dulwich, ,Eric Carle, ,George Lepape, ,Henri Rousseau, ,interview, ,japanese, ,liberty, ,London Design Week, ,Louise Wilkinson, ,Maple Collection, ,matisse, ,Mid Century, ,Modern Show, ,Russian, ,Stoke-on-Trent, ,Tent London, ,The Hungry Caterpillar, ,va

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