Amelia’s Magazine | Tabernacle Twins: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon
Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon.

Tabernacle Twins was a new brand to me, but having visited the website my interest was piqued. The label is described as an exploration of fashion, textiles and illustration by designer Vibe Lundemark, a graduate of the RCA now relocated home to Denmark.

Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Rose Crees
Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Rose Crees.

The show began with the appearance of the ‘Tabernacle Twins‘ who, as Vibe Lundemark‘s creative muses, take fictional journeys through surreal landscapes. This season the scene was set for a Cobra Casablanca, with our handouts describing a desert quest to search for a magic cobra, meeting fortune tellers, jesters and street magicians along the way. These ideas were translated into colourful abstract illustrations that crept and curled across large panels of fabric on dresses and blowsy shirts. Vibe Lundemark used a bold colour palette of lilac, purple, peach and ochre which was lightened by plentiful white across this relaxed collection. Girls with bright matte orange lips swung talismans from their wrists and paced the catwalk in patent white DMs with ankle socks. Alongside blouson shapes that were the perfect canvas for prints there were tailored details that included cowl necks, a crop top covered in pointy scales and a lacey matching shorts suit. A marbled chequerboard in deep purple on white created an arresting all over effect.

Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

It seemed odd that the girls chosen as twins were barely alike, and not even the same height, but that aside the twins were an appealing visual concept, who cropped up several times on the runway wearing key pieces. I liked the use of narrative to drive ideas behind the collection and look forward to seeing more from the Tabernacle Twins on future Fashion Scout runways.

Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,catwalk, ,Cobra Casablanca, ,copenhagen, ,Danish, ,Denmark, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,rca, ,review, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Tabernacle Twins, ,Vibe Lundemark

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch Trine Lindegaard

Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Ones to Watch menswear once again took place during a very busy menswear Wednesday afternoon. There was as ever an eager crowd in attendance, page bar a few smart suited buyers sitting across from each other in the front row, who smirked at each other across the catwalk for most of the proceedings.

Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Dennis Brix
Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Dennis Brix.

Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory

Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by HoBoJoBo
Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by HoBoJoBo.

First out was a colourful display from Danish born designer Trine Lindegaard. She received an MA in menswear from the RCA in 2010 and began selling on ASOS marketplace in early 2011 but this was Trine Lindegaard‘s first full collection with mentoring from Fashion Scout. It featured a playful range of garments in a scrumptious colour range of fruity maroon, lime yellow and navy. Heads were adorned in flapping material caps that seemed to emulate a cartoon like bowl haircut, and garments sported plenty of texture with appliqued crosses, layered fringing and subtle ribbon stripes. Whilst certainly at the more adventurous end of the menswear spectrum this collection should appeal to avante garde types who are happy to experiment with curious but appealing colour combinations. Garments included shirts, polo necks, baggy pants, relaxed shorts and boxy shouldered overcoats. Definitely One to Watch.

Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia GregoryOnes to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Trine Lindegaard SS 2012 review-Photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Trine Lindegaard S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_TrineLindegaard_MattBramford
All photography by Matt Bramford.

Categories ,ASOS, ,Casual, ,Danish, ,Dennis Brix, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,HoBoJoBo, ,Marketplace, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Ones To Watch, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Trine Lindegaard

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: best of On/Off static stands

Carmen Secareanu On/Off by jenny robins
Illustration by Jenny Robins.

I didn’t make manage to take in the whole of On/Off exhibition this year because I was inevitably racing between shows when I passed through. And I always forget that it finishes a day before the other static shows. But here is the best of what I saw…

Iris Serban by Chris Morris
Iris Serban by Chris Morris.

Cecile Bahnsen
Two designers that I really warmed to were graduates of the RCA that we’ve already covered. Cecile Bahnsen is a Danish designer who works with complex textile combinations inspired by modernism and resulting in delicate laser cut dresses and geometric shapes galore. I loved the batwing oversized coats, apparently a reference to her teenage years in the 90s.

Cecile Bahnsen photo by Amelia Gregory
Cecile Bahnsen photo by Amelia Gregory
Cecile Bahnsen photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Cecilie Bahnsen by Ella Masters
Cecilie Bahnsen by Ella Masters.

Frances Conteh
Frances Conteh could be found next door – delightfully colourful in the face of so much tasteful monochrome. Another RCA graduate who specialises in beautiful knitwear, she produced a range of slim fitting graphic dresses, massive mohair cardigans and oversized patterned coats in a yummy palate of citrus flavours. Stunning stuff.

Frances Conteh photo by Amelia Gregory
Frances Conteh photo by Amelia Gregory
Frances Conteh photo by Amelia Gregory
frances conteh - lfw - ss11 - jenny robins
Frances Conteh by Jenny Robins.

Carmen Secareanu
Hailing from Romania Carmen Secareanu creates strangely shaped garments inspired by “angels or birds”. Her stand was buzzing when I passed, with lots of people trying on her bulbous big shouldered black jacket replete with massive over-sized cuffs. Do garments get larger as models get slimmer, I wonder?

Carmen Secareanau photo by Amelia Gregory
Carmen Secareanu- lfw - ss11 - jenny robins
Carmen Secareanu by Jenny Robins.

Iris Serban
Another Romanian designer, Iris Serban plays with subtle broken prints, beading and tasteful cream and beige ruffled textures like the carefully laid out pages of a very old book.

Iris Serban photo by Amelia Gregory
iris serban by chris morris
Iris Serban by Chris Morris.

Laura Theiss
My fifth and final On/Off tip is the work of Lithuanian born Laura Theiss, who first trained in business so she should be good at this fashion malarkey. She’s another knitwear designer and graduate of Central Saint Martins, and divides herself between the UK and Germany. She specialises in the combination of different yarns and colours to create unusual textures and feeling.

Laura Theiss by Ella Masters
Laura Theiss by Ella Masters.

I’m sure I may have missed other talent, but hey, if you close a day before everyone else what do you expect?

Categories ,Carmen Secareanu, ,Cecile Bahnsen, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Chris Morris, ,Danish, ,Ella Masters, ,Frances Conteh, ,Iris Serban, ,Jenny Robins, ,Laura Theiss, ,Lithuanian, ,onoff, ,Romanian, ,Royal College of Art, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Aminaka Wilmont

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

The title Changeling on the poster-sized invitation to Aminaka Wilmont’s show – the last womenswear show in the BFC show space at Somerset House during this London Fashion Week’s season – already prepared me, cost before actually seeing the collection, illness for some allusions to legends and folklore. Of course the designers behind the Aminaka Wilmont, Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont have a wealth of such otherworldly inspiration to draw from their Swedish, Japanese and Danish cultural backgrounds.

Aminaka Wlimont LFW SS12 by MattBramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Kristina Vasiljeva

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva

The first thing that struck me when the show begun was the way the models had their hair styled with a mid-parting and straight bands of hair placed hanging in front of their ears, which immediately reminded me of Neyriti’s hairstyle in the movie Avatar.

Aminaka Willmont show LFW SS12 by Gemma Sheldrake

Aminaka Willmont S/S 2012 by Gemma Sheldrake

Interestingly, afterwards I read that Aminaka Wilmont were partly inspired for their Spring Summer 2012 collection by Ori Gersht’s photographs of dark landscapes and high mountains which look very much like Pandora’s Hallelujah Mountains in Avatar. The dove grey tones we saw in a lot of the outfits evoked the colour of karst limestone formations found in some of Gersht’s work and on the chinese Huang Shan Mountains which inspired the Hallelujah Mountains.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Perhaps following this line of thought, the designers had placed white orchids – which often grow under geological conditions such as those described above – on the front row seats while the pure white colour, and innocence of the flower was reflected in a number of simple white chiffon dresses.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Vasare Nar

Aminaka Wilmont S/S 2012 by Vasare Nar

Violets and shades of brown dominated in abstract floral prints where again one could see Ori Gersht’s influence. Jersey assymetrical dresses featured cut out panels and custom-made Merve Tuna shoes came in mermaid blues and greens that alluded to creatures of an ambiguous identity. I really enjoyed the chain vial necklaces that contained something which looked like a magic potion in various bright colours.

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

In line with this ambiguity of the theme of the Changeling was also the duality expressed through the use of leather in the jackets versus sheer chiffon in the dresses and skirts as well as through some bottom halves that were pants-length versus long trains hanging at the back. Indeed here I should add that I felt one should really own an otherworldly pair of legs or simply be a fairy to be able to sport some of the shorter pieces…

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Of course the most beautiful and startling contrast was between the masculine/aggressive and feminine which was revealed in the final pieces in the collection; floral printed body armour pieces with 3D flower forms sewn onto them as if the armour was blossoming. Intriguingly the designers cite as an inspiration ‘the Hayflick effect’ or limit – which is the number of times a normal cell population will divide before it stops – and I thought that at times the models looked, walked and had an expression on their faces, especially at the end when they all walked together in a huddle, like they were hopefull warriors or amazons – perhaps determined to survive in a world where the cells do not have that many more times left to divide?

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wilmont show LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

Aminaka Wlimont show LFW SS12 by Matt Bramford

All photography by Matt Bramford and Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Aggressive, ,Aminaka Wilmont, ,Armour, ,Avatar, ,british fashion council, ,Changeling, ,Chiffon, ,collection, ,Danish, ,Dress, ,fairytales, ,fashion, ,Feminine, ,Folklore, ,Gemma Sheldrake, ,Hairstyle, ,Hayflick Limit, ,Jackets, ,japanese, ,jersey, ,Karst limestone, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,leather, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maki Aminaka Lofvander, ,Marcus Wilmont, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masculine, ,Matt Bramford, ,Merve Tuna, ,Necklaces, ,Neytiri, ,Orchids, ,Ori Gersht, ,Swedish, ,Vasare Nar, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Designers Remix (by Amelia)

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Jenny Lloyd
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Jenny Lloyd.

Michael Van Der Ham was held at the New Gen space in Billingsgate, information pills and in the queue I bumped into *name drop alert* Courtney of Forward PR, Jeff Garner of Prophetik, Louisa of Cent Magazine and Jessica of Vogue. Usually I just slink in and out of shows as fast as possible, so it was nice to have a friendly little crew to hang out with as we made the most of free food laid on courtesy of Topshop… glasses of champagne, or juice… and creamy butternut squash risotto served in dinky little pots: quite possibly the best risotto I have ever tasted.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

This was only Michael Van Der Ham‘s second stand alone show, and as we were ushered in to our seats I was left wondering why the hell it had been so hard to get tickets for New Gen shows… the Billingsgate venue is huge, and the PR girls had to hurry standing tickets into seats as the lights went down. It was not exactly busy for either of the shows that I attended here, so it’s a shame that allocation of tickets was so tight.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie HarnettMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie Harnett
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie Harnett.

Michael Van Der Ham has made his name from a unique cut and paste approach to fashion. Last season he mashed up all sorts of clashing fabrics to create something universally lauded but perhaps not wholly wearable. This season he appeared to address the commerciality question, so first out onto the catwalk came a series of eminently desirable velvet outfits in a range of jewel brights. Each one featured his signature asymmetric draped tailoring, but rendered all in one shade: delicious rose, fuchsia, lime, turquoise and orange.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Madi
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Madi.

From then on in we were in more familiar territory: assorted fabric panels and intarsia knitwear inspired by vintage floral paisleys in 70s style shades of purple and orange, complete with accents of lurex. Heavily tasseled trousers were fun for editorial but of questionable taste for the buying public; far more successful were the wide legged high waisted trousers worn with panelled wool crop jackets.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril KellyMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

But for me the standouts were unquestionably the range of sumptuous velvet dresses. Want. One. Experimenting with more wearable concepts suits Michael Van Der Ham well.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

You can read Jemma Crow’s review of this show here and see more of Katie Harnett’s work in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Jenny Lloyd
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Jenny Lloyd.

Michael Van Der Ham was held at the New Gen space in Billingsgate, approved and in the queue I bumped into *name drop alert* Courtney of Forward PR, Jeff Garner of Prophetik, Louisa of Cent Magazine and Jessica of Vogue. Usually I just slink in and out of shows as fast as possible, so it was nice to have a friendly little crew to hang out with as we made the most of free food laid on courtesy of Topshop… glasses of champagne, or juice… and creamy butternut squash risotto served in dinky little pots: quite possibly the best risotto I have ever tasted.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

This was only Michael Van Der Ham‘s second stand alone show, and as we were ushered in to our seats I was left wondering why the hell it had been so hard to get tickets for New Gen shows… the Billingsgate venue is huge, and the PR girls had to hurry standing tickets into seats as the lights went down. It was not exactly busy for either of the shows that I attended here, so it’s a shame that allocation of tickets was so tight.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie HarnettMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie Harnett
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie Harnett.

Michael Van Der Ham has made his name from a unique cut and paste approach to fashion. Last season he mashed up all sorts of clashing fabrics to create something universally lauded but perhaps not wholly wearable. This season he appeared to address the commerciality question, so first out onto the catwalk came a series of eminently desirable velvet outfits in a range of jewel brights. Each one featured his signature asymmetric draped tailoring, but rendered all in one shade: delicious rose, fuchsia, lime, turquoise and orange.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Madi
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Madi.

From then on in we were in more familiar territory: assorted fabric panels and intarsia knitwear inspired by vintage floral paisleys in 70s style shades of purple and orange, complete with accents of lurex. Heavily tasseled trousers were fun for editorial but of questionable taste for the buying public; far more successful were the wide legged high waisted trousers worn with panelled wool crop jackets.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

But for me the standouts were unquestionably the range of sumptuous velvet dresses. Want. One. Experimenting with more wearable concepts suits Michael Van Der Ham well.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

You can read Jemma Crow’s review of this show here and see more of Katie Harnett’s work in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Jenny Lloyd
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Jenny Lloyd.

Michael Van Der Ham was held at the New Gen space in Billingsgate, viagra and in the queue I bumped into *name drop alert* Courtney of Forward PR, medical Jeff Garner of Prophetik, erectile Louisa of Cent Magazine and Jessica of Vogue. Usually I just slink in and out of shows as fast as possible, so it was nice to have a friendly little crew to hang out with as we made the most of free food laid on courtesy of Topshop… glasses of champagne, or juice… and creamy butternut squash risotto served in dinky little pots: quite possibly the best risotto I have ever tasted.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

This was only Michael Van Der Ham‘s second stand alone show, and as we were ushered in to our seats I was left wondering why the hell it had been so hard to get tickets for New Gen shows… the Billingsgate venue is huge, and the PR girls had to hurry standing tickets into seats as the lights went down. It was not exactly busy for either of the shows that I attended here, so it’s a shame that allocation of tickets was so tight.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie HarnettMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie Harnett
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Katie Harnett.

Michael Van Der Ham has made his name from a unique cut and paste approach to fashion. Last season he mashed up all sorts of clashing fabrics to create something universally lauded but perhaps not wholly wearable. This season he appeared to address the commerciality question, so first out onto the catwalk came a series of eminently desirable velvet outfits in a range of jewel brights. Each one featured his signature asymmetric draped tailoring, but rendered all in one shade: delicious rose, fuchsia, lime, turquoise and orange.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Madi
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Madi.

From then on in we were in more familiar territory: assorted fabric panels and intarsia knitwear inspired by vintage floral paisleys in 70s style shades of purple and orange, complete with accents of lurex. Heavily tasseled trousers were fun for editorial but of questionable taste for the buying public; far more successful were the wide legged high waisted trousers worn with panelled wool crop jackets.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

But for me the standouts were unquestionably the range of sumptuous velvet dresses. Want. One. Experimenting with more wearable concepts suits Michael Van Der Ham well.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMichael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly
Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2011 by Avril Kelly.

You can read Jemma Crow’s review of this show here and see more of Katie Harnett’s work in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
Designers Remix by Charlotte Eskildsen. Illustration by Faye West
Designers Remix by Charlotte Eskildsen. Illustration by Faye West.

Designers Remix is a somewhat ridiculous name for the signature brand from Danish designer Charlotte Eskildsen. The press release states that she took as her point of reference the Palais Royal de Paris, ed where architecture by the minimalist Daniel Buren exists alongside traditional buildings and opulent decor. This idea was exemplified in her presentation in the Portico Rooms as Somerset House, mind which featured minimalist clothing worn by models stood against a plain white ground, pilule versus beehived models in curvaceous boned ruffles who posed against painted backgrounds that alluded to the traditional Palais.

Designers Remix A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryDesigners Remix by Charlotte Eskildsen. Illustration by Katherine Tromans
Designers Remix by Charlotte Eskildsen. Illustration by Katherine Tromans.

This duality only became clear on reading the press release: at the show it just came across as two very different collections. Of course, the one which the photographers loved most is not hard to guess. Two models cuddled up against an orange and grey photo-real scene was by far the best presentation idea I’ve seen in some time, and ensured some great images for press – photographers thrusting each other out of the way to get the best faux lesbian picture. Sadly the minimalist crew were not nearly as inspiring… and I felt sorry for the under loved models in their poker straight hair and clean black tailoring.

Designers Remix A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryDesigners Remix A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryDesigners Remix A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Designers Remix A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Read Jemma Crow’s review of Designers Remix here. You can see more work from Faye West and Katherine Troman in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Charlotte Eskildsen, ,Daniel Buren, ,Danish, ,Designers Remix, ,Faye West, ,Jemma Crow, ,Katherine Tromans, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,minimalist, ,Opulent, ,Palais Royal de Paris, ,Portico Rooms, ,Presentation, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Showroom

Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott
Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott.

Time for a quick round up of the best brands that I found in the Showroom at Fashion Week Poland. Held in the industrial sized factory space between the catwalks, this was a chance to catch up with some interesting niche talent from Poland and beyond.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Galadea
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Galadea
First up something a wee bit traditional: Galadea use embroidered folk designs from around Poland as the backbone to a range that includes arm cuffs and colourful belts.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Agata Mocarska
This stand displayed bizarre dolls inspired by famous fashion creatures – in this case Anna Wintour – by designer Agata Mocarska.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
I was delighted to find the work of an intriguing fashion illustrator on display. Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek goes under the name of Maggie Piu, and that’s about all I can tell you as the press release was in Polish. Highly decorative stuff.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Fiszerowa
Pretty beaded necklaces by Fiszerowa.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Shoes were a real winner – I especially liked these upcycled heels with appliqued animal motifs by Kollana.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Lola Ramona
And there were more cute shoes covered in polka dots and bows at Danish brand Lola Ramona. You can buy Lola Ramona shoes in the UK on Zalando.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek
Bartek Witek had a fetching range of mens’ shirting.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Manitic
Perspex necklaces caught my eye at Manitic.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-owl bags
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-owl bags
Loved these hand crafted fabric owl bags. Sadly I’ve lost the business card so can’t tell you who made them, though I do know she makes each one by hand, and they were displayed on a fab gold papermache cow. Update! I know who made them now! They are by Monika Wyłoga.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-ekoista
Over in the section dedicated to recycled and environmentally aware fashion I once again met Ekoista, otherwise known as Ania Rutkowska. She creates astonishing jewellery by bending the plastic waste from used drinks bottles.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Dr. Martens
Lastly, Dr. Martens lent their shoes to many of the catwalk shows. Liking the flowery ones!

Categories ,Agata Mocarska, ,Ania Rutkowska, ,Anna Wintour, ,Appliqué, ,Bartek Witek, ,Belts, ,Bottles, ,Celine Elliott, ,Danish, ,Dr. Martens, ,Ekoista, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fiszerowa, ,Galadea, ,illustration, ,jewellery, ,Kollana, ,Lodz, ,Lola Ramona, ,Maggie Piu, ,Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek, ,Manitic, ,menswear, ,Monika Wyłoga, ,owls, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,Shirting, ,shoes, ,Showroom, ,Upcycled, ,Zalando

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Showroom

Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott
Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott.

Time for a quick round up of the best brands that I found in the Showroom at Fashion Week Poland. Held in the industrial sized factory space between the catwalks, this was a chance to catch up with some interesting niche talent from Poland and beyond.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Galadea
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Galadea
First up something a wee bit traditional: Galadea use embroidered folk designs from around Poland as the backbone to a range that includes arm cuffs and colourful belts.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Agata Mocarska
This stand displayed bizarre dolls inspired by famous fashion creatures – in this case Anna Wintour – by designer Agata Mocarska.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
I was delighted to find the work of an intriguing fashion illustrator on display. Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek goes under the name of Maggie Piu, and that’s about all I can tell you as the press release was in Polish. Highly decorative stuff.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Fiszerowa
Pretty beaded necklaces by Fiszerowa.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Shoes were a real winner – I especially liked these upcycled heels with appliqued animal motifs by Kollana.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Lola Ramona
And there were more cute shoes covered in polka dots and bows at Danish brand Lola Ramona. You can buy Lola Ramona shoes in the UK on Zalando.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek
Bartek Witek had a fetching range of mens’ shirting.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Manitic
Perspex necklaces caught my eye at Manitic.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-owl bags
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-owl bags
Loved these hand crafted fabric owl bags. Sadly I’ve lost the business card so can’t tell you who made them, though I do know she makes each one by hand, and they were displayed on a fab gold papermache cow. Update! I know who made them now! They are by Monika Wyłoga.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-ekoista
Over in the section dedicated to recycled and environmentally aware fashion I once again met Ekoista, otherwise known as Ania Rutkowska. She creates astonishing jewellery by bending the plastic waste from used drinks bottles.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Dr. Martens
Lastly, Dr. Martens lent their shoes to many of the catwalk shows. Liking the flowery ones!

Categories ,Agata Mocarska, ,Ania Rutkowska, ,Anna Wintour, ,Appliqué, ,Bartek Witek, ,Belts, ,Bottles, ,Celine Elliott, ,Danish, ,Dr. Martens, ,Ekoista, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fiszerowa, ,Galadea, ,illustration, ,jewellery, ,Kollana, ,Lodz, ,Lola Ramona, ,Maggie Piu, ,Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek, ,Manitic, ,menswear, ,Monika Wyłoga, ,owls, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,Shirting, ,shoes, ,Showroom, ,Upcycled, ,Zalando

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Amelia’s Magazine | The Very Best Scented Christmas Candles

Willow candle by daria hlazatova
Willow Organic Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova.

I don’t know what it is about candles that gets me so excited. I think it has a lot to do with the fact that I love beautiful smells. My house may be a mess but I quite often spritz my office with a sweetly scented room spray or light a candle to imbue a relaxing mood. I think that this is the nub of what is so brilliant about candles, viagra especially the really high quality ones that contain high quantities of essential oils – they are the simplest way to create a delightfully relaxing and cosy feeling within a space.

willow organics candle

And of course Christmas is all about candles. Since I lived in Sweden as a little girl my family has had a tradition of lighting advent candles during the month of December – and whilst I don’t spend much time at my parent’s home anymore, rx I always look forward to candlelit dinners when I return for Christmas. Candles impart a certain cosiness which the Danish call “hygge” – and during these bitterly cold dark winter months is most sorely appreciated.

Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova
Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova.

This year my favourite discovery is the Willow Organic Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle. It comes beautifully presented in a beribboned fold out box and utilises the naturally healing and calming effects of precious oils that have been synonymous with Christmas since biblical times.

Willow candle box
willow candle box open

From the wonderful scents to the gold leaf that floats glittering in the top of the wax, it doesn’t get more christmassy than this. The Willow Organic shop in Kings Road, Chelsea is open until the 23rd December, so there’s still time to grab a fabulous Christmas candle before the big day.

Cire_Trudon_by_Megan_Piontkowski
Cire Trudon by Megan Piontkowski.

Earlier this year I discovered the French Cire Trudon brand, which has been in operation in various guises since 1643. Alongside very high quality candles presented in beautiful glass pots with heraldic shields, they also produce stunning room sprays in statement bottles and a boxed set containing a room spray, candle and illustrated fairy tale – the idea being to encourage children to enjoy evocative scents from a very young age. Not for the hard up these boxed sets don’t come cheap, but I love the idea and the illustrated booklets are a delight.

Sinbad the Sailor - Fairy Tale Box - Cire Trudon

Recently discovered: the Albam independent menswear clothing store in Spitalfields stocks three yummy varieties of candle, my favourite being the figgy one. When I went in they were also testing out a new scent called Library, which was suitably masculine. Unfortunately I don’t think you can buy these online but it’s definitely worth taking a trip down to this great little store. I have since discovered that these candles are made by ecological candle makers True Grace. You can find a whole host of flavours online for a very reasonable price here.

Spitalfields Candle Co by ellie sutton
Spitalfields Candle Co and Tocca candles by Ellie Sutton.

There is also the Spitalfields Candle Co. which uses sustainably sourced soya wax in all candles. It was hard to choose my favourite from such a yummy range only briefly sniffed in the Inspitalfields gift store, but I think it has to be Lemon Verbena – I just love that clean bright scent.

Diptyque Candle - The Cloud Commission
Diptyque Candle by The Cloud Commission.

Tocca are a high end scent company that stock in Liberty – I particularly like the sound of the Bianca candle which contains Green Tea and Lemon. Each year the Parisian brand Diptyque creates a special Christmas range, in beautifully decorated coloured glass jars. The Orange Epicee sounds yummy, as does the Canelle.

Jo Malone by Gareth A Hopkins
Jo Malone by Gareth A Hopkins.

Lastly but no means least Jo Malone offers incredibly classy scents, all tastefully presented in cream boxes with crisp branding. The limited edition Pine & Eucalyptus Collection sounds glorious, and how about a giant candle with not one but four wicks to make a major statement?

Right, I’m off to get on with my present wrapping by the scent of my Willow Organic candle. Have a glorious Christmas everyone.

Categories ,Advent, ,Albam, ,Beauty, ,candle, ,Christmas, ,Cire Trudon, ,Danish, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,Diptyque, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Essential Oils, ,Fig, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,gifts, ,Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle, ,hygge, ,Jo Malone, ,Kings Road, ,liberty, ,Megan Piontkowski, ,organic, ,Pine & Eucalyptus Collection, ,spitalfields, ,Spitalfields Candle Co., ,sweden, ,The Cloud Commission, ,Tocca, ,True Grace, ,Village Classic Candle, ,Willow Organic

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Amelia’s Magazine | Tent London 2011 Review: Best Surface Design

Kate Usher wallpaper
Wallpaper by Kate Usher Studio.

The printed textile designer in me will always be a sucker for great decorative surface design. Here’s some fabulous stuff that I found at Tent London this year.

Kate Usher Meerkat wallpaper
At the Designed and Made stand I was immediately drawn to Kate Usher‘s marvellous wallpaper designs with names such as Sharkbait and Hang About. She has set out with an admirable mission to shake up the tired old cliches that appear on most children’s bedroom decor, story so expect bold designs, thumb all printed to order on FSC approved base papers… and with the possibility to add a bespoke Swarovski crystal topping. Wow-wee.

Tent London 2012 review -kate usher and sarah blood
Also at Designed and Made I liked the neon Duck lights by Sarah Blood which offer a fun updated version of this kitsch classic.

Tent London 2012 review -flavor paper
Tent London 2012 review -flavor paper
Tent London 2012 review -flavor paper
Brookyln’s Flavor Paper had flown to the UK to showcase their unique wares. What fun! I particularly loved their hot air balloon display and given their provocative name I couldn’t help asking if any of their designs were actually scratch ‘n’ sniff – to my delight I discovered that indeed the cherries were. All their designs are created to buyer specifications, either digitally or via traditional screenprinting.

Tent London 2012 review -bluebellgray
Digital printing was used to great effect by Scottish designer Fi Douglas of Bluebellgray, retaining the feel of pretty hand painted floral watercolour textiles.

Tent London 2012 review -happy happy bows
I am not sure which section these Happy Happy oversized bows fit into since they are essentially an entirely useless bit of decor. Made by RCA trained designer Stephen Johnson, these kitsch creations are intended to bring a bit of happiness into the world.

Tent London 2012 review -3form tiles
Tent London 2012 review -3form tiles
Gorgeous (but very expensive) irridescent sculpted bespoke tiles were on display from 3Form solutions.

Tent London 2012 review -Lisa Grue avantgarden
And then I chanced upon Lisa Grue, who I last met in Copenhagen a year ago. She was taking in part in Tent London with a group of artist/designers working in multiple disciplines under the name avantGarden.

Tent London 2012 review -Lisa Grue avantgarden
Tent London 2012 review -Lisa Grue avantgarden
Tent London 2012 review -Lisa Grue avantgarden
Titled Beautiful Mortality, all of avantGarden‘s work was inspired by the beauty of life, death and decay and all the designs were rendered in a limited colourway of cream and browns – quite a departure from Lisa’s usual colourful work. I loved her moth and fox designs and her huge hand-appliqued wall hanging.

Tent London 2012 review -Meyer-Lavigne
Tent London 2012 review -Meyer-Lavigne
Bulbous painted ceramic plant pots from Meyer-Lavigne were also particularly wonderful.

Tent London 2012 review -Louise Gaarmann
Louise Gaarmann presented some tactile ceramics in imaginative combinations of shapes. Together with textile designer Tina Ratzer she had created Mr.Craftsman, a huge tribal coat in pure wool accessorised with hanging ceramic talismans.

Our Man_ratzermeetsgaarmann mr craftsman
Don’t forget to take a peek at my pick of this years furniture design too.

Categories ,2011, ,3Form, ,avantGarden, ,Beautiful Mortality, ,Bluebellgray, ,brooklyn, ,ceramic, ,copenhagen, ,Danish, ,Designed and Made, ,digital, ,Duck, ,Fi Douglas, ,Flavor Paper, ,Happy Happy, ,kitsch, ,Lisa Grue, ,London Design Festival, ,Louise Gaarmann, ,Meyer-Lavigne, ,Neon Lights, ,rca, ,review, ,Sarah Blood, ,scratch ‘n’ sniff, ,screenprinting, ,Stephen Johnson, ,surface design, ,Swarovski, ,Tent London, ,textiles, ,Tiles, ,Tina Ratzer, ,Underwerket Projects, ,Wallpaper

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Amelia’s Magazine | Hvass&Hannibal Losing The Plot at the Kemistry Gallery, Shoreditch

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-14012010021

Danish designers Sofie Hannibal and Nan Na Hvass (pronounced with a silent H) are in London on the eve of their new exhibition at the Kemistry gallery in Shoreditch, stomach running until 27th February. Having first been invited to put some work together a year ago, salve Losing The Plot was completed in just six weeks. Sparring off each other in that easy way that really really good friends and work partners do, the girls describe the thinking behind their colourful work and how their long relationship with the band Efterklang came about.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-14012010038Hologram (detail)

When did you start working on the exhibition?
S: Well, we left everything to the last minute so the real work only began in November.
Oh no, so did you have to work really hard over the Christmas break?
S: Well, no, Nan Na was in Istanbul for the New Year for five days with her boyfriend Rasmus… who is in the band Efterklang.
Oh, I didn’t realise that was who I was speaking to when he emailed me!
N: It was our 5 year romantic anniversary but I had to pay for it [metaphorically], by working extra hard over Christmas.
S: I left her alone though, I only sent one email.

We’re sitting in the fancy boardroom of the ad agency above the gallery. I think I hear a cat. Nan Na shifts in her swivel chair. Miaow it goes. Hmmm. Not a cat then.

Do you like cats?
S: We have 3 feral cats living in the courtyard of our studio.
N: We’re quite crazy about animals – Sofie used to have a dog.
S: It died.
N: It was a fat barrel shaped one with little thin legs and a triangle head.
S: We did talk about getting another studio dog, but we have a studio elf instead; it’s made of wool and lies all stiff in a hole in the wall.
N: We picked it up in a fleamarket.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-17102009057Spot the aforementioned elf.

What is your studio like?
S: It’s in the basement of an old house and we share it with others.
N: It’s an old building so all the walls are crumbling but it’s a charming area with lots of little shops.

Sometimes their studio is messy. (Not as messy as my house I’ll bet). And for the past four months they have had one full time intern who helps out with research and sewing.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-14012010013

Was there a brief for this exhibition?
N: No, but we decided to base the designs on statistics, data and numbers; taking inspiration from the patterns. At first we wanted to collect our own information from surveys [to turn into designs] but we felt it could be confusing and might tie us down. So we decided it would be more fun to be open ended because it forces you to focus more on the media without getting lost in the content. So there is no real information.
S: It’s a very free translation, so for instance with the pie charts – you can invent yourself what each colour represents.
N: We looked at Edward Tufte, [described as the “Leonardo ad Vinci of data” by the New York Times, fact fans]. He’s done 3 or 4 books where he collects different information and graphics and celebrates their prettiness. For example the diagrams and instructions for dancing steps.
S: We started in earnest on December 1st.
Blimey!
N: No no we started on the screenprints before that, we were thinking about them in mid November, but it’s hard to find a screenprinting place in Copenhagen.
So where did you do them?
S: We can’t actually say where we did them…

At this point dear reader I have been sworn to secrecy. So, my lips are sealed. You’re never going to know. Can I have a free print now please? [I really really want one. It’s so bad when you just want things isn’t it?]

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-14012010008Statistical Insignificance. I’d like this one please. Isn’t it just so gorgeous?

What other mediums did you use?
N: Well, we’ve worked in wood before so it was a bit stupid to do it again because it’s very difficult, but we did… it’s very heavy, then you have to cut, sand, prime and use two layers of paint – so it’s very labour intensive and slow. Our studio is too small so we used Sofie’s basement party room.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-14012010048Hologram (detail)

I hear you met at high school. Tell me the story.
S: We became friends pretty fast.
N: I remember dying your hair when I hadn’t known you very long!
S: Then we went to an after school art class together.
N: It goes to show that you should always draw in public so you can discover that it is a mutual interest!
And weren’t you already working together professionally whilst you were still studying for your Ba in Visual Communications? I can’t imagine many British students being that motivated.
S: Well, there are only two design schools in Copenhagen so you have to be very motivated to get into one in the first place.
N: But in general I was a bit bored at design school…
S: So you seek out other stuff…
N: I started doing Efterklang covers whilst I was still at college.
Where did you meet Rasmus?
N: I met him at a Christmas party – he tried to brag about being in a band but I didn’t know them so it had no effect.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010067The first artwork I remember seeing by Hvass&Hannibal, for the Efterklang album Parades

Funnily enough Sofie’s boyfriend is also in a band, Turboweekend. Soon the girls were painting the walls in nightclubs during their spare time. I always dreamt I’d have the cool boyfriend in a band when I was their age. Didn’t happen though. Pah.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010072An album cover for Turboweekend. You’ve got to love it, it’s bonkers!

What instruments do your boyfriends play?
N: They both play bass.
S: They’re the cool ones!
N: They play squash together sometimes but their music is pretty different…
S: …and we all go on holiday together.

Me, jealous? Never.

What kind of music does Turboweekend make?
N: I’m not sure what you’d call it, intelligent party music? Electropop?
S: I don’t know, I’d have to ask, but it’s pop music of some sort.
N: We listen to music constantly when we are designing, especially the bands we’re designing for. We just did some stuff for Clogs, which is a great band.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010064Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010065New artwork for Clogs. So beautiful.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010066The new Efterklang cover for Magic Chairs.

Your latest cover for Efterklang features ribbons being swirled in a courtyard, how did you design it?
N: We completed it just before we started work on this show. All the fabrics were hand dyed and sewn.
S: Then we practiced waving them around in the yard. (see pic below)
N: We worked on the set designs and costumes for two big Efterklang shows in Denmark last year, which was really fun.
S: Then Efterklang won an award for the best dvd release.
Did you get a mention?
S: *pulls face*

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-14102009056Sofie painting ribbons.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-17102009058Waving the ribbons in the courtyard.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010063Costumes designed by Hvass&Hannibal for the Efterklang concerts.

It’s a bit of a departure from your usual work, I get the sense you don’t really want to describe yourself just as illustrators?
N: We’ve been talking about this a lot lately; the illustrator label doesn’t quite feel right as we do lots of other stuff, but it’s the part of our work that’s been seen the most. We do a lot of spaces and interiors and we’d like to expand and do more art direction.

Hvass&Hannibal-vegaInterior of the Vega Nightclub.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-14012010025In front of the wood panel Let’s Twist Again, a piece that exemplifies Hvass&Hannibal’s approach to colour.

How do you actually work together, in practice?
S: To begin with we used to send digital images back and forth, but now we work much more individually on specific projects and we talk a lot to make sure we agree on certain things like the colours.

Ah. The colours. If there is one thing that makes a Hvass&Hannibal piece so instantly recognisable it is their wonderful use of colour.

How do you come up with your colour schemes?
S: We have favourite combinations of colours
N: You can see this really well on the end wall [of the exhibition]. We have preferences for what works well next to another colour – this is usually a bright colour next to a complimentary but less bright version.
S: We tried to come up with new bold combinations for this show.
N: …I was surprised when I looked back at our work and we could see that even though we’ve tried to make specific choices about colour everything does look a bit similar from a distance.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010073

What about the all white piece you did for the Danish Railways Magazine?
S: It started out as a papercut with lots of colours
N: …but then the drawing told us to do it.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010068For Form Magazine.

And I’d love to see the stuff you did for Form Magazine in Germany. Didn’t you get to showcase some specialist print techniques? As you know I love to fiddle around with such things myself. What was your favourite?
S: We got to do some really nice pearly ones and glow in the dark, by my favourite one to work with was sand.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010070Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010069
What about the food faces? I see you have one as your screensaver on your computer.
N: It was initially planned as a poster for a festival, but they didn’t use it.
Did you eat your creations afterwards?
N: No! But I think we’d like to experiment with mediums more.

I particularly like a few of the other projects you mention on your website [which is very good readers, you really should check it out] – can you tell me a bit more about your Save the Rainforest with Art project?
N: We were asked to do a project with a youth design school and wanted the theme to inspire and then we donated some of the money [from sales] towards saving the rainforest. Maybe we have a bad conscience [about the content of our art]… but we’re driven by aesthetic pleasure, and we just love choosing shapes and patterns.
S: I think you can be political in your everyday life and in how you work. We are very conscious of how we consume in a private kinda way.

Before they can attend their solo private view Sofie and Nan Na are off to the launch night of the If You Could Collaborate exhibition down the road, where they are also exhibiting.

Hvass&Hannibal-Anne-WernerFor If You Could Collaborate, with Anne Werner.

What did you do for If You Could Collaborate?
S: We did a piece with the artist and tailor Anne Werner, sort of an Op Art tapestry.
How on earth did you find time to do that?
N: Luckily she did a lot of the sewing!
S: We need little helpers to help us.

What did you think of what happened in Copenhagen during the Cop15?
S: I think it’s ridiculous. We have a Reclaim the Streets protest every year and I once got caught between the police…
We would call that kettling here.
S: Yes, so I got away somehow but my friend got arrested, as did another one who was just going to get the newspaper. It was so ridiculous that everyone who got arrested was able to sue the police.
Did you attend any of the demos this time?
N: No, it’s quite sad but we were working all through December…
S: It’s strange, I feel we should’ve been participating but we had no time… and I actually got really frightened after the last time [being kettled] and that’s a real problem.
N: So we were just sitting in our basement, isolated from all the news.

Do you find that there peaks and troughs when it comes to earning money?
N: Yes!
S: We’re actually talking about making a long term plan to describe what we are doing and why.
Do you have any plans afoot for the future?
S: We’re going to north China in April to do a lecture at an arts academy who found us through some books.
Do you think you are they well known now?
S: It’s difficult to know… but I think we are, it depends who you ask!
Any other plans?
S: We want to get a webshop and a blog but we’re going to have to wait till the end of January, and then we have a little helper who is going to do the programming.
N: Yes, a young man has offered himself.
Can I have one too? I really need one of those.
S: We’ll sell tote bags, cds that we’ve designed, that kind of thing.
Do you sell anywhere at the moment?
N: You can buy some stuff on artrebels.com.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-21012010071For sale on Art Rebels.

Lastlly, do you ever argue?
S: Yes… sometimes
N: But it’s never very dramatic, not exactly arguments, just that sometimes we just get tired of each other.
S: It’s never physical though!

They both laugh, in that easy way of theirs.

Hvass&Hannibal-2010-14012010037Nan Na and Sofie.

So there you have it, an introduction to the wonderful world of Hvass&Hannibal. Two immensely talented girls who’ve found the perfect foil in each other. Get along to the exhibition if you’re in Shoreditch, buy one of the limited edition prints here or just make sure you visit their lovely website to keep updated on their many projects. As well as being super pretty it is also informative and easy to use – just how every website should be. It’s no wonder Sofie and Nan Na are on a roll.

Categories ,Art Exhibition, ,colour, ,Cop15, ,copenhagen, ,Danish, ,Denmark, ,Hoxton, ,Hvass&Hannibal, ,Kemistry gallery, ,limited edition prints, ,screenprinting, ,sculpture, ,shoreditch, ,Statistics

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