Dr Noki

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Illustrated Menswear Day Round-Up

by

C/Bruerberg A/W 2011 by Karla Pérez Manrique
C/Bruerberg A/W 2011 by Karla Pérez Manrique.

Four menswear designers in one fell swoop: Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch Men was the first of its kind and my last fashion show of the A/W 2011 season.

C/Bruerberg A/W 2011 by Karla Pérez Manrique
C/Bruerberg A/W 2011 by Karla Pérez Manrique.

C/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryC/Bruerberg A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

C/Bruerberg A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson
C/Bruerberg A/W 2011 by Rebecca Strickson.

My favourite was undoubtedly the first one out and the one collection designed by a girl. C/Bruerberg produces wonderful knitwear – a raggle-taggle collection of clashing materials, what is ed sickness finely executed lace and draped shapes with sheer panels. Her colour palette was a confident mix of browns and greys with bright green and reds. I loved the playful accessorising of dangling head and neckpieces and the digital prints were equally strong. Camilla Bruerberg graduated from the Oslo National Academy of the Arts in 2008 and has collaborated with Royksopp and the Norwegian theatre.

A.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA.Hallucination A/W 2011 by Alison Day
A.Hallucination A/W 2011 by Alison Day.

This season A.Hallucination by Hwan Sun Park and Chung Chung Lee showed their usual blend of well tailored suits and fine detailing, buy more about focusing on contrasting quilted panels and sweet little touches such as bowties and ruffles. Jacket sleeves were rolled up, unhealthy boots slouched. There was also a range of large bags slung across the back – rucksacks are a big emerging trend for men.

Mr Lipop A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMr Lipop A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMr Lipop A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMr Lipop A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMr Lipop A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMr Lipop A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMr Lipop A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMr Lipop A/W 2011 by Jane Young
Mr Lipop A/W 2011 by Jane Young.

Aside from having a rather wonderful/silly name, Mr Lipop produced what was surely the most commercial collection of Ones to Watch, rife with wearable items. Hoods, tailored leather backpacks, loose sheepskin and relaxed suiting was the order of the day. He’s worked as a tailor for Nathan Jenden for several seasons, but maybe a relaxed approach comes from his love of football – not the most obvious choice of hobby for a fashion designer. Bit concerned that was real fur trim though. Naughty step for Mr Pop if so.

Asger Juel Larson A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryAsger Juel Larson A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryAsger Juel Larson A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryAsger Juel Larson A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryAsger Juel Larson A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryAsger Juel Larson A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryAsger Juel Larson A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryAsger Juel Larson A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryAsger Juel Larson A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Asger Juel Larson A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

With his Uncle Sam collection Asger Juel Larson drew the most surprised looks from big retail buyers in the front row – maybe because of the crucifix encrusted top hat? Or the feathered headdress made from two entire wings? Or the amazing holey knitwear encrusted with what looked like deflated balloons, worn over leather hot pants and not much else? Surely these are highly sellable items, non? Asger is a London College of Fashion graduate with some considerable hype to his name since being involved with Turkish luxe label Tween. According to the press release he’s inspired by historic events to create a sharp structured silhouette, though I’d say he owes more to the fantasy of High Gothic films.

Asger Juel Larson A/W 2011 by Sam Parr
Asger Juel Larson A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

When I worked as a stylist I loved styling men far more than women, but because I struggled to find good menswear I invariably ended up using the same brands all the time. So it’s great that the much talked about renaissance in menswear design is finally happening and is getting such great support from Fashion Scout director Martyn Roberts. I look forward to next season with anticipation.


Illustration by Charlotte Hoyle

So yes, help London Fashion Week was yonks ago, for sale and designers are already thinking about their S/S 2012 collections. Soz then, but this has been one hell of a season. Our coverage, if I do say so myself, has been immense. Allow me one last indulgence to tell you about the Fashion East Menswear Installations and London Fashion Week A/W 2011 menswear in general. Here’s a wonderfully photographed and illustrated round-up.

ASTRID ANDERSEN

Illustration by Abby Wright


All photography by Matt Bramford

Astrid Andersen was a bit of a find at the menswear installations… hip-hop sportwear meets luxe fabrics in neons. These poor (but buff) models slumped for four hours. Pity them.

AGI & SAM

Illustration by Faye West



Agi & Sam brought back the nineties this season with acid face paint and 3D fabrics (they even had 3D specs… and it worked). Padded puffa jackets and gilets in all sorts of vibrant colours and patterns stood out in a sea of sharp tailoring. My model-pity continued, but then I realised they’re probably earning a lot more than I am, so quickly got over it.

CASSETTE PLAYA

Cassette Playa illustrated by Antonia Parker

Cassette Playa was one of my favourite menswear shows this season, with the gold bodies and inspired prints. You can read my full review here and Amelia’s here.

LOU DALTON

Illustration by Izzy Lane

We didn’t get a ticket to see Lou Dalton – AGAIN – but I wasn’t going to let that stop me. Oh no. I borrowed Michael from Anastasia Duck‘s ticket. What I didn’t expect was that the ‘Royal Opera House’ venue advertised was actually one of the tiny rooms off the main entrance, and the show was massively oversubscribed. So that did stop me getting in. Oh, well – at least I made it to Cassette Playa on time. There’s a lovely illustration by Izzy above though, from S/S 2011.

OMAR KASHOURA

Illustration by Matt Thomas

We didn’t get a ticket to Omar Kashoura either – harumph – despite our extensive coverage of his quirky outing last season. You’ll have to make do with Matt’s S/S 2011 illustration above – which, I’m sure you’ll agree, is brilliant anyway.

KTZ

KTZ S/S 2011, illustrated by Sandra Contreras

Unless you’ve been under a rock you’ll know that KTZ was my favourite shows this season – and one of Amelia’s too. Thinking about it leaves me breathless. Read our reviews here and here, and enjoy Sandra’s S/S 2011 illustration above!

MATTHEW MILLER

Illustration by Dan Heffer


Illustration by Sam Tickner

I’ve been fond of Matthew Miller and his collections since I first discovered him a year ago… this season lime green duffel coats fastened with carabiner-style heavy duty locks. Enormous bags also played with this theme, teaming expedition materials with luxe fabrics. Great shoes, too.

NOKI

Illustration by Natsuki Otani

Dr. NOKI was back with his weird and wonderful New Era caps and a new collection of garments made from recycled materials. His model must be the hardest working this season – I’ve seen him everywhere, from here to looking awkward at Jean Pierre Braganza. Read more about Dr Noki in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

E. TAUTZ

Illustration by Gemma Smith

No ticket. Again. Yawn. But a lovely illustration by Gemma, nevertheless!

See more from Antonia Parker, Natsuki Otani, Faye West and Abby Wright in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday March 25th, 2011 4:57 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Abby Wright, ,Agi & Sam, ,Antonia Parker, ,Astrid Andersen, ,Cassette Playa, ,Charlotte Hoyle, ,Dan Heffer, ,Dr Noki, ,E. Tautz, ,Fashion East, ,Faye West, ,Gemma Smith, ,KTZ, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Thomas, ,Matthew Miller, ,menswear, ,Natsuki Otani, ,Omar Kashoura, ,Sam Tickner, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Somerset House, ,Wednesday

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion East and NEWGEN Menswear Installations: London Fashion Week A/W Presentation Review

by


Sibling A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

The Fashion East and NEWGEN installations were a riot of colour, innovation and design again this season. I always have the best intentions on menswear day to see everything – the schedule is quite thin in a morning and leads you into a false sense of security that you can casually amble around taking in every designer in your stride. Serenity soon turns to chaos about 1pm though – the installations open, they’re rammed, and all of a sudden there are back-to-back catwalk shows dotted around town.

So in typical Matt stylee I raced around the installations in between shows, juggling my camera, a glass of plonk and a bunch of handouts in unison. Here’s my whistle-stop tour of both the Fashion East and Newgen designers:

Christopher O’Brien
Christopher O’Brien‘s name wasn’t one I’d heard of before, but I was captivated by his devilishly good looks and, more importantly, his A/W 2012 collection. His innovative crinkled cotton in white, navy and aqua across jackets and shirts really stood out.

Kit Neale

Kit Neale A/W 2012 by Krister Selin

In a separate room, Kit Neale‘s presentation was one of the highlights. A mixture of models stood and sat across wooden platforms, wearing Kit’s weird and wonderful digital-print fabrics. Matching jackets and trousers came in garish patterns, styled with scarves and backpacks. Across the room, a video of models performing karaoke to Elvis hits in front of a sparkly curtain played – one of my favourite digital presentations of this season.

Dr Noki’s NHS
In typical Noki fashion, his two models were adorned in all sorts of recycled materials: back-to-front New Era caps (a Noki staple), faces covered with t-shirts and comic book illustrations, which had my pal Gareth A Hopkins – Amelia’s Magazine contributor and comic perv – proclaiming that he was on trend long before Noki was; a fact I wholeheartedly agree with.

Sebastian Tarek
Lovely, lovely shoes.

Sibling

Sibling A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

On menswear day I find myself desperate to see what Sibling will present each season. Last year’s fairground-inspired collection bowled me over. This ‘Marked Man‘ collection drew inspiration from ‘the relationship between a protective matriarch and her beloved – but wayward – son’. Queue glittery knits, tattoo imagery, a bleeding heart motif – this design trio certainly know how to interpret a theme. My favourite pieces were those that carried the leopard print knits – just incredible. To accompany their presentation, Sibling produced a stunning video installation that featured three models behind bars. Three screens acted as contemporary prison windows, where guests could sit opposite, listen to white noise down phone lines, and generally absorb the atmosphere. It was pretty affecting stuff. The three screens worked as a whole, with models moving between windows and animations occurring at the same time. Even visiting children enjoyed it.

T.Lipop
I’m a big fan of T.Lipop‘s contemporary sartorial splendour and this season was no exception. A fashion expedition – models wore contemporary tailoring and were styled with ice-cold beards and eyebrows. There’s a full review of the T.Lipop catwalk show to come soon…

William Richard Green
Last but not least, William Richard Green gave the modern man more ways to mix up his wardrobe. Jackets displayed expert craftsmanship, adorned with large white buttons, reworking classic staple items into statements for A/W 2012. An inimitable mix of wearable pieces and conceptual items (overcoats teamed with polkadot trousers and New Balance trainers), garments in this collection are sure to become future classics and I’d gladly wear any of it.

It was pretty exhausting – not least because one had to manoeuvre around Champagne gluggers like an assassin just to take a photograph – but it’s always worth it.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday February 28th, 2012 9:58 am

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,AW12, ,Christopher O’Brien, ,Dr Noki, ,Fashion East, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Kit Neale, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marked Man, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Newgen, ,NHS, ,Sebastian Tarek, ,Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,t.lipop, ,William Richard Green

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Amelia’s Magazine | 123 Bethnal Green Road: An interview with Ross Barry and Michelle Goggi

by

Gareth A Hopkins 123 SS2011
Tallest man on earth by Avril Kelly

Illustration by Avril Kelly

So it started on January 3rd, visit web I was in a bad mood. Well, it’s that whole palaver of taking the (now miserable) tree down, thinking about the enormity of work that needs to be done and the poor, defenseless body. It needs some very tender loving care. This day of January, after bathing in Pukka ‘Cleanse’ tea, going for a brisk walk on the Downs by my house and bemoaning the lack of vitamin D for my eyeballs, I cracked on the Mac. I had recently purchased The Tallest Man On Earth album, Wild Hunt (Dead Oceans). I was in need of something new to form some (wahoo 2011) fresh associations with. Whilst I mused about the flat, now was the time I decided, to dedicate to the giant man. Hopefully this would culminate in reaching up and putting my arms around his shoulders, prancing around the room, rather than immersing myself in 2010 nostalgia. Oh the perils of memory boxes, scrap books and photo archives.

thetallestmanonearthpress

Picture Source

Click and Bob Dylan growls came out. This was all very lovely, I had linked that before though and was waiting to get actually into The Tallest Man on Earth, rather than just wonder about the Dylan. Then Love Is All came on. Oh hello. This is BEAUTIFUL. The Tallest Man On Earth’s heart appeared to be unashamedly open to my grump self. I turned it up and continued to listen. Sometimes painfully honest in his thoughts, loves and admissions, he gently strums next to his musings. Akk, this was so bitingly raw, the crackling voice and simple notes, it was almost uncomfortably perfect.

Despite his Texan American country sounds, Kristian Matsson is from Dalarna, Sweden. And although he is called: The Tallest Man On Earth, Matsson in fact stands below the Swedish male average (nearly five foot eleven), at five foot five. The tallest person in medical history was Robert Pershing Wadlow, from Illonois, USA, who was eight foot and eleven inches tall.

robert-wadlow

Robert Pershing Wadlow; d.1940 Picture Source

The (slightly smaller than) Tallest Man On Earth plays the guitar, banjo and piano and has released two albums, Shallow Grave (Dead Oceans) and The Wild Hunt. He has also released two EPs, Sometimes The Blues Is Just A Passing Bird and self titled. The latter holds the song; Walk The Line, a foot -tapping, spindly, defiant number “you bring me down…I aint gonna walk the line”. It’s a mixture of nature’s thunderous activities, humans, animals and emotion; “all tomorrows parties will dance before my eyes”.

Matsson is utterly immersed in nature, similes transform him into an eagle, lizard, sparrow and gardener. Whilst his lovers are bluebirds and rivers. Seemingly unlike Britain in a snowfall, he is aware and respects mother nature’s ultimate power over us. He will sit upon the river, dance in the ocean and watch the birds. Honey Won’t You Let Me In; “As I knock your door, from inside once more, how I wish a sudden breeze would let me in, shake my tambourine at your glowing dreams, I said honey won’t you let me in.” The city in contrast, has no distinct sounds for him, and equally his heart leaves him lost, weather beaten and alone at times. Two harsh climes for our protagonist. Tangle In This Trample Wheat; “I get frightened I could never gather birds enough to carry round your heart”. But his soul seems distinctly free, he won’t be found.

tallest MAN on earth 2 by Avril Kelly

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Integrated into nature’s attributes is Matsson’s love of dreaming, and love itself. A Lion’s Heart; “he’s coming down the hills for you”. Accompanied by constant gentle guitar and banjo notes, the listener can not help but be thrust into a pure and new perspective. Importantly, he also makes many references to nature never stopping. And perhaps we need to appreciate this a little bit more ourselves. Indeed the traffic, economy and work never really halts, and 2011’s start may be all New Resolutions (blah), but nature never, EVER takes a break or crash diets suddenly because some poppers went off. Remember, outside, the hills, oceans and mountains are far prettier than flouro lighting (even if that flouro lights up the best dress you’ve ever seen). It also changes in considerably more interesting ways than the prices of your average baked beans can. Step outside. The Dreamer; “I’m just a dreamer, but I’m hanging on, though I am nothing big to offer, I watched the birds how they in then gone, it’s like nothing in this world’s ever still.”

So starting with melancholy, I was risen by eloquent exuberance and now I continue to travel along the mighty (and fast) river of 2011 and life. It’s Janurary 7 and I have barely listened to anything other than The Tallest Man On Earth. Both The Wild Hunt and Shallow Grave on the label Dead Oceans are available now.
Gareth A Hopkins 123 SS2011
123 illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins.

123 Bethnal Green Road recently opened shop after a lengthy renovation of its Victorian corner store in a prime position right at the top of Brick Lane in east London. Hosting three floors of own label designs as well as those of cult designer Noki, more about what exactly is this new fashion brand all about?

“Some people might think it foolhardy to open an eco-fashion concept store in the midst of the dreaded credit crunch, but so far the reception has been great,” says Ross Barry, co-owner with sister Michelle Goggi. Having abandoned their previous careers, in the city and in design and photography respectively, Ross and Michelle are now set to shake up the world of ethical fashion with their ‘sustainable canvas’ concept. “Ethical, sustainable, green and eco are all terms with very specific connotations. We wanted to do something new and exciting.”

With their 123 collection they have created a fresh look, starting with a sustainable (rather than blank) canvas. “Our aim is to make well-made, desirable, British clothing,” says Michelle. “We want to extinguish the belief that reusing and recycling materials is at the bottom of the fashion food chain.” This is a luxury store selling well designed products that just happen to be ethical as well; upcycled from waste garments and produced locally. Using vertical production methods, whereby an item of clothing can be taken from the cutting table to the store within a week, they are able to provide exactly what the customer is keen on; reacting and responding to new trends within a couple of weeks. Vertical production gives them incredible control over every element of the process and ensures a minute carbon footprint. 

LMB Textile Recycling was set up by Ross and Michelle’s father Lawrence, who also designed the ubiquitous green textile recycling banks that populate the streets of major cities. As youngsters Ross and Michelle were soon involved in the family business. “Other children got taken to the park at the weekend. We got taken to the sorting factory where we amused ourselves by jumping around in mountains of second hand clothing.” Their father’s motto was “where possible don’t pay someone else to do something you could do yourself” and this belief has clearly been taken to its natural conclusion with the creation of 123 Bethnal Green Road….

Read the rest of this interview in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

123 Bethnal Green Road host one of their legendary pick ‘n’ mix sales this weekend: full listing info here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday January 7th, 2011 3:16 pm

Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Brick Lane, ,Dr Noki, ,Eco fashion, ,ethical, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,green, ,launch party, ,LMB Textile Recycling, ,Michelle Goggi, ,Noki, ,Noki NHS, ,Ross Barry, ,sustainable, ,Sustainable Canvas

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Amelia’s Magazine | 123 Bethnal Green Road: An interview with Ross Barry and Michelle Goggi – Part 13

by

Gareth A Hopkins 123 SS2011
Tallest man on earth by Avril Kelly

Illustration by Avril Kelly

So it started on January 3rd, visit web I was in a bad mood. Well, it’s that whole palaver of taking the (now miserable) tree down, thinking about the enormity of work that needs to be done and the poor, defenseless body. It needs some very tender loving care. This day of January, after bathing in Pukka ‘Cleanse’ tea, going for a brisk walk on the Downs by my house and bemoaning the lack of vitamin D for my eyeballs, I cracked on the Mac. I had recently purchased The Tallest Man On Earth album, Wild Hunt (Dead Oceans). I was in need of something new to form some (wahoo 2011) fresh associations with. Whilst I mused about the flat, now was the time I decided, to dedicate to the giant man. Hopefully this would culminate in reaching up and putting my arms around his shoulders, prancing around the room, rather than immersing myself in 2010 nostalgia. Oh the perils of memory boxes, scrap books and photo archives.

thetallestmanonearthpress

Picture Source

Click and Bob Dylan growls came out. This was all very lovely, I had linked that before though and was waiting to get actually into The Tallest Man on Earth, rather than just wonder about the Dylan. Then Love Is All came on. Oh hello. This is BEAUTIFUL. The Tallest Man On Earth’s heart appeared to be unashamedly open to my grump self. I turned it up and continued to listen. Sometimes painfully honest in his thoughts, loves and admissions, he gently strums next to his musings. Akk, this was so bitingly raw, the crackling voice and simple notes, it was almost uncomfortably perfect.

Despite his Texan American country sounds, Kristian Matsson is from Dalarna, Sweden. And although he is called: The Tallest Man On Earth, Matsson in fact stands below the Swedish male average (nearly five foot eleven), at five foot five. The tallest person in medical history was Robert Pershing Wadlow, from Illonois, USA, who was eight foot and eleven inches tall.

robert-wadlow

Robert Pershing Wadlow; d.1940 Picture Source

The (slightly smaller than) Tallest Man On Earth plays the guitar, banjo and piano and has released two albums, Shallow Grave (Dead Oceans) and The Wild Hunt. He has also released two EPs, Sometimes The Blues Is Just A Passing Bird and self titled. The latter holds the song; Walk The Line, a foot -tapping, spindly, defiant number “you bring me down…I aint gonna walk the line”. It’s a mixture of nature’s thunderous activities, humans, animals and emotion; “all tomorrows parties will dance before my eyes”.

Matsson is utterly immersed in nature, similes transform him into an eagle, lizard, sparrow and gardener. Whilst his lovers are bluebirds and rivers. Seemingly unlike Britain in a snowfall, he is aware and respects mother nature’s ultimate power over us. He will sit upon the river, dance in the ocean and watch the birds. Honey Won’t You Let Me In; “As I knock your door, from inside once more, how I wish a sudden breeze would let me in, shake my tambourine at your glowing dreams, I said honey won’t you let me in.” The city in contrast, has no distinct sounds for him, and equally his heart leaves him lost, weather beaten and alone at times. Two harsh climes for our protagonist. Tangle In This Trample Wheat; “I get frightened I could never gather birds enough to carry round your heart”. But his soul seems distinctly free, he won’t be found.

tallest MAN on earth 2 by Avril Kelly

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Integrated into nature’s attributes is Matsson’s love of dreaming, and love itself. A Lion’s Heart; “he’s coming down the hills for you”. Accompanied by constant gentle guitar and banjo notes, the listener can not help but be thrust into a pure and new perspective. Importantly, he also makes many references to nature never stopping. And perhaps we need to appreciate this a little bit more ourselves. Indeed the traffic, economy and work never really halts, and 2011’s start may be all New Resolutions (blah), but nature never, EVER takes a break or crash diets suddenly because some poppers went off. Remember, outside, the hills, oceans and mountains are far prettier than flouro lighting (even if that flouro lights up the best dress you’ve ever seen). It also changes in considerably more interesting ways than the prices of your average baked beans can. Step outside. The Dreamer; “I’m just a dreamer, but I’m hanging on, though I am nothing big to offer, I watched the birds how they in then gone, it’s like nothing in this world’s ever still.”

So starting with melancholy, I was risen by eloquent exuberance and now I continue to travel along the mighty (and fast) river of 2011 and life. It’s Janurary 7 and I have barely listened to anything other than The Tallest Man On Earth. Both The Wild Hunt and Shallow Grave on the label Dead Oceans are available now.
Gareth A Hopkins 123 SS2011
123 illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins.

123 Bethnal Green Road recently opened shop after a lengthy renovation of its Victorian corner store in a prime position right at the top of Brick Lane in east London. Hosting three floors of own label designs as well as those of cult designer Noki, more about what exactly is this new fashion brand all about?

“Some people might think it foolhardy to open an eco-fashion concept store in the midst of the dreaded credit crunch, but so far the reception has been great,” says Ross Barry, co-owner with sister Michelle Goggi. Having abandoned their previous careers, in the city and in design and photography respectively, Ross and Michelle are now set to shake up the world of ethical fashion with their ‘sustainable canvas’ concept. “Ethical, sustainable, green and eco are all terms with very specific connotations. We wanted to do something new and exciting.”

With their 123 collection they have created a fresh look, starting with a sustainable (rather than blank) canvas. “Our aim is to make well-made, desirable, British clothing,” says Michelle. “We want to extinguish the belief that reusing and recycling materials is at the bottom of the fashion food chain.” This is a luxury store selling well designed products that just happen to be ethical as well; upcycled from waste garments and produced locally. Using vertical production methods, whereby an item of clothing can be taken from the cutting table to the store within a week, they are able to provide exactly what the customer is keen on; reacting and responding to new trends within a couple of weeks. Vertical production gives them incredible control over every element of the process and ensures a minute carbon footprint. 

LMB Textile Recycling was set up by Ross and Michelle’s father Lawrence, who also designed the ubiquitous green textile recycling banks that populate the streets of major cities. As youngsters Ross and Michelle were soon involved in the family business. “Other children got taken to the park at the weekend. We got taken to the sorting factory where we amused ourselves by jumping around in mountains of second hand clothing.” Their father’s motto was “where possible don’t pay someone else to do something you could do yourself” and this belief has clearly been taken to its natural conclusion with the creation of 123 Bethnal Green Road….

Read the rest of this interview in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

123 Bethnal Green Road host one of their legendary pick ‘n’ mix sales this weekend: full listing info here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday January 7th, 2011 3:16 pm

Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Brick Lane, ,Dr Noki, ,Eco fashion, ,ethical, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,green, ,launch party, ,LMB Textile Recycling, ,Michelle Goggi, ,Noki, ,Noki NHS, ,Ross Barry, ,sustainable, ,Sustainable Canvas

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Amelia’s Magazine | 123 Bethnal Green Road: An interview with Ross Barry and Michelle Goggi – Part 2

by

Gareth A Hopkins 123 SS2011
Tallest man on earth by Avril Kelly

Illustration by Avril Kelly

So it started on January 3rd, visit web I was in a bad mood. Well, it’s that whole palaver of taking the (now miserable) tree down, thinking about the enormity of work that needs to be done and the poor, defenseless body. It needs some very tender loving care. This day of January, after bathing in Pukka ‘Cleanse’ tea, going for a brisk walk on the Downs by my house and bemoaning the lack of vitamin D for my eyeballs, I cracked on the Mac. I had recently purchased The Tallest Man On Earth album, Wild Hunt (Dead Oceans). I was in need of something new to form some (wahoo 2011) fresh associations with. Whilst I mused about the flat, now was the time I decided, to dedicate to the giant man. Hopefully this would culminate in reaching up and putting my arms around his shoulders, prancing around the room, rather than immersing myself in 2010 nostalgia. Oh the perils of memory boxes, scrap books and photo archives.

thetallestmanonearthpress

Picture Source

Click and Bob Dylan growls came out. This was all very lovely, I had linked that before though and was waiting to get actually into The Tallest Man on Earth, rather than just wonder about the Dylan. Then Love Is All came on. Oh hello. This is BEAUTIFUL. The Tallest Man On Earth’s heart appeared to be unashamedly open to my grump self. I turned it up and continued to listen. Sometimes painfully honest in his thoughts, loves and admissions, he gently strums next to his musings. Akk, this was so bitingly raw, the crackling voice and simple notes, it was almost uncomfortably perfect.

Despite his Texan American country sounds, Kristian Matsson is from Dalarna, Sweden. And although he is called: The Tallest Man On Earth, Matsson in fact stands below the Swedish male average (nearly five foot eleven), at five foot five. The tallest person in medical history was Robert Pershing Wadlow, from Illonois, USA, who was eight foot and eleven inches tall.

robert-wadlow

Robert Pershing Wadlow; d.1940 Picture Source

The (slightly smaller than) Tallest Man On Earth plays the guitar, banjo and piano and has released two albums, Shallow Grave (Dead Oceans) and The Wild Hunt. He has also released two EPs, Sometimes The Blues Is Just A Passing Bird and self titled. The latter holds the song; Walk The Line, a foot -tapping, spindly, defiant number “you bring me down…I aint gonna walk the line”. It’s a mixture of nature’s thunderous activities, humans, animals and emotion; “all tomorrows parties will dance before my eyes”.

Matsson is utterly immersed in nature, similes transform him into an eagle, lizard, sparrow and gardener. Whilst his lovers are bluebirds and rivers. Seemingly unlike Britain in a snowfall, he is aware and respects mother nature’s ultimate power over us. He will sit upon the river, dance in the ocean and watch the birds. Honey Won’t You Let Me In; “As I knock your door, from inside once more, how I wish a sudden breeze would let me in, shake my tambourine at your glowing dreams, I said honey won’t you let me in.” The city in contrast, has no distinct sounds for him, and equally his heart leaves him lost, weather beaten and alone at times. Two harsh climes for our protagonist. Tangle In This Trample Wheat; “I get frightened I could never gather birds enough to carry round your heart”. But his soul seems distinctly free, he won’t be found.

tallest MAN on earth 2 by Avril Kelly

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Integrated into nature’s attributes is Matsson’s love of dreaming, and love itself. A Lion’s Heart; “he’s coming down the hills for you”. Accompanied by constant gentle guitar and banjo notes, the listener can not help but be thrust into a pure and new perspective. Importantly, he also makes many references to nature never stopping. And perhaps we need to appreciate this a little bit more ourselves. Indeed the traffic, economy and work never really halts, and 2011’s start may be all New Resolutions (blah), but nature never, EVER takes a break or crash diets suddenly because some poppers went off. Remember, outside, the hills, oceans and mountains are far prettier than flouro lighting (even if that flouro lights up the best dress you’ve ever seen). It also changes in considerably more interesting ways than the prices of your average baked beans can. Step outside. The Dreamer; “I’m just a dreamer, but I’m hanging on, though I am nothing big to offer, I watched the birds how they in then gone, it’s like nothing in this world’s ever still.”

So starting with melancholy, I was risen by eloquent exuberance and now I continue to travel along the mighty (and fast) river of 2011 and life. It’s Janurary 7 and I have barely listened to anything other than The Tallest Man On Earth. Both The Wild Hunt and Shallow Grave on the label Dead Oceans are available now.
Gareth A Hopkins 123 SS2011
123 illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins.

123 Bethnal Green Road recently opened shop after a lengthy renovation of its Victorian corner store in a prime position right at the top of Brick Lane in east London. Hosting three floors of own label designs as well as those of cult designer Noki, more about what exactly is this new fashion brand all about?

“Some people might think it foolhardy to open an eco-fashion concept store in the midst of the dreaded credit crunch, but so far the reception has been great,” says Ross Barry, co-owner with sister Michelle Goggi. Having abandoned their previous careers, in the city and in design and photography respectively, Ross and Michelle are now set to shake up the world of ethical fashion with their ‘sustainable canvas’ concept. “Ethical, sustainable, green and eco are all terms with very specific connotations. We wanted to do something new and exciting.”

With their 123 collection they have created a fresh look, starting with a sustainable (rather than blank) canvas. “Our aim is to make well-made, desirable, British clothing,” says Michelle. “We want to extinguish the belief that reusing and recycling materials is at the bottom of the fashion food chain.” This is a luxury store selling well designed products that just happen to be ethical as well; upcycled from waste garments and produced locally. Using vertical production methods, whereby an item of clothing can be taken from the cutting table to the store within a week, they are able to provide exactly what the customer is keen on; reacting and responding to new trends within a couple of weeks. Vertical production gives them incredible control over every element of the process and ensures a minute carbon footprint. 

LMB Textile Recycling was set up by Ross and Michelle’s father Lawrence, who also designed the ubiquitous green textile recycling banks that populate the streets of major cities. As youngsters Ross and Michelle were soon involved in the family business. “Other children got taken to the park at the weekend. We got taken to the sorting factory where we amused ourselves by jumping around in mountains of second hand clothing.” Their father’s motto was “where possible don’t pay someone else to do something you could do yourself” and this belief has clearly been taken to its natural conclusion with the creation of 123 Bethnal Green Road….

Read the rest of this interview in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

123 Bethnal Green Road host one of their legendary pick ‘n’ mix sales this weekend: full listing info here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday January 7th, 2011 3:16 pm

Categories ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Brick Lane, ,Dr Noki, ,Eco fashion, ,ethical, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,green, ,launch party, ,LMB Textile Recycling, ,Michelle Goggi, ,Noki, ,Noki NHS, ,Ross Barry, ,sustainable, ,Sustainable Canvas

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Amelia’s Magazine | 123 Bethnal Green Road – the Sustainable Fashion Concept Store

by

Latitude 2010-Phil Jupitas by Amelia Gregory

Illustration by Paul Shinn

So I popped along to the opening of 123 Bethnal Green Road this week with Amelia, order who I found outside clutching her phone, thumb looking a little anxious, surrounded by Dr Noki‘s entourage of weird and wonderful fashionos. I hadn’t expected this at all – and then remembered that this new store boasted an entire floor of Dr Noki’s fashions. Amelia and I both remarked what an exhausting effort it must be to be part of his clan, which left me wondering what said clan members wear to the supermarket – surely not this rig-out everyday?


Illustration by Paul Shinn

123 Bethnal Green Road promises to be a ‘sustainable fashion concept store’ and is many years in the making – gosh, that place has been ‘opening soon!’ longer than I’ve been in London. It’s beautiful on both the inside and the outside, though – and a skim of the press release reveals, unsurprisingly, that it’s a listed building – which probably explains the hold up in the opening.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

Brought to you from the people behind Vintage For Sale, these guys know their fashion and the store stocks a range of sustainable goods – from Dr Noki’s somewhat strange NHS range featuring the now ‘iconic’ New Era reworked hats, to vintage finds with the ’123′ label. The latter being more my cup of tea (with no offence to Dr Noki, of course), here there are lots of interesting finds. Reclaimed fabrics have been reworked by the 123 design team, featuring the most covetable cuts – mini skirts, layered tops and ruffles are aplenty, making using of fascinating fabrics with all sorts of colours, patterns and textures.



Illustrations by Natasha Thompson

The store dedicates an entire floor to whacky Dr Noki, described as a ‘fashion rebel’. The doctor (I’d like to see his accreditation, please) is famed for said New-Era re-workings and outlandish creations, including turd necklaces for pregnant women. Yeah, you heard me. His ethos is a good one, though – he’s challenging the corporate giants of the fashion industry and creating one-off art pieces that, for all their nu-rave connotations, are pretty stunning – especially after a few free Salto cachaca cocktails.

…and the evening will remembered for Noki and his harem of followers, who push the fashion boundaries and are aching to be photographed (which suits me fine). Here are some photographs from the event for you to feast your eyes on:


Look at this guy. ACHING to be photographed, I tell ya. Pubis tattoos will be everywhere come SS2011.

All photographs by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday July 23rd, 2010 3:46 pm

Categories ,123, ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,Amelia, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Dr Noki, ,london, ,Matt Bramford, ,Natasha Thompson, ,New Era, ,NHS, ,Paul Shinn, ,Turd necklace, ,Vintage For Sale

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Amelia’s Magazine | 123 Bethnal Green Road – the Sustainable Fashion Concept Store

by


Illustration by Paul Shinn

So I popped along to the opening of 123 Bethnal Green Road this week with Amelia, who I found outside clutching her phone, looking a little anxious, surrounded by Dr Noki’s entourage of weird and wonderful fashionos. I hadn’t expected this at all – and then remembered that this new store boasted an entire floor of Dr Noki’s fashions. Amelia and I both remarked what an exhausting effort it must be to be part of his clan, which left me wondering what said clan members wear to the supermarket – surely not this rig-out everyday?


Illustration by Paul Shinn

123 Bethnal Green Road promises to be a ’sustainable fashion concept store’ and is many years in the making – gosh, that place has been ‘opening soon!’ longer than I’ve been in London. It’s beautiful on both the inside and the outside, though – and a skim of the press release reveals, unsurprisingly, that it’s a listed building – which probably explains the hold up in the opening.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

Brought to you from the people behind Vintage For Sale, these guys know their fashion and the store stocks a range of sustainable goods – from Dr Noki’s somewhat strange NHS range featuring the now ‘iconic’ New Era reworked hats, to vintage finds with the ‘123′ label. The latter being more my cup of tea (with no offence to Dr Noki, of course), here there are lots of interesting finds. Reclaimed fabrics have been reworked by the 123 design team, featuring the most covetable cuts – mini skirts, layered tops and ruffles are aplenty, making using of fascinating fabrics with all sorts of colours, patterns and textures.



Illustrations by Natasha Thompson

The store dedicates an entire floor to whacky Dr Noki, described as a ‘fashion rebel’. The doctor (I’d like to see his accreditation, please) is famed for said New-Era re-workings and outlandish creations, including turd necklaces for pregnant women. Yeah, you heard me. His ethos is a good one, though – he’s challenging the corporate giants of the fashion industry and creating one-off art pieces that, for all their nu-rave connotations, are pretty stunning – especially after a few free Salto cachaca cocktails.

…and the evening will remembered for Noki and his harem of followers, who push the fashion boundaries and are aching to be photographed (which suits me fine). Here are some photographs from the event for you to feast your eyes on:


Look at this guy. ACHING to be photographed, I tell ya. Pubis tattoos will be everywhere come SS2011.

All photographs by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday July 23rd, 2010 3:46 pm

Categories ,123, ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,Amelia, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Dr Noki, ,london, ,Matt Bramford, ,Natasha Thompson, ,New Era, ,NHS, ,Paul Shinn, ,Turd necklace, ,Vintage For Sale

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