Amelia’s Magazine | Oliver Spencer: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Menswear Catwalk Review


Oliver Spencer A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

I hadn’t spent much time this London Fashion Week at the main show space at Somerset House – the big tent they plonk in the centre of that beautiful courtyard. I’d forgotten what a celebfest it was. As I queued, clutching my printed ticket to my breast, I stood amongst the melee of fashionistas waving their tickets in the air as celebrities were ushered inside, except for the gentlemanly Rick Edwards who politely told the PR girl batting her eyelids that he would queue like everybody else. Swoon.


Oliver Spencer A/W 2012 by Krister Selin

Inside, a frenzy of photographers took pictures of front-rowers and I couldn’t tell who anybody was, apart from remarking to Gareth that I thought I saw a glimpse of Alex Reid. We LOL’d as the show started.

Oliver Spencer is a bit of a maestro when it comes to exquisite tailoring. I’ve been a fan for a while but this was the first show I’d seen. Myself and Gareth had secured goodish seats at the beginning of the catwalk, and despite my reservations, we had a pretty good view of the action.


Oliver Spencer A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

Spencer had taken his inspiration this season from 1970s art-house and the iconic persona of a young Lucien Freud. A wide spectrum of models appeared in the show, from tattooed hipsters to mature gents, each with their own cool kudos.

The show began with said tattooed hipster, who wore a deep red and grey luxury varsity-style jacket with contrast sleeves – a sartorial version of the current trend. Quintessential, English, well-tailored, an effortless fit – buzz words associated with the Oliver Spencer brand.

Next came more cropped wool coats in blues and greys, teamed with tapered trousers and capped-toe oxford shoes. I’m a huge fan of Spencer’s knitwear and this collection came up with the goods. Chunky rollnecks and big scarves worn over the shoulders had a hip retro feel without being fancy dress.

More jackets appeared, and one in particular – a sort of contemporary Fair Isle pattern in navy and white cut above the hip had me swooning more than I did at Rick Edwards‘ courteous approach to queuing. The tattooed hipster modelled it, and I wouldn’t be surprised if there were a few miffed models backstage because he seemed to have been selected to wear the most achingly cool outfits.

A selection of olive and brown jackets came towards the end with a more athletic look about them, worn with looser-fitting trousers. A plaid jacket, buttoned at the top only, was worn over a vibrant red shirt. Some jackets came with cross-over lapels in contrasting colours, worn with camel-coloured trousers. More varsity-style jackets appeared: it seems we’ll all be wearing contrast sleeves come September.


All photography by Matt Bramford

You’ll see from my previous menswear day posts that there are many designers pushing the boundaries of menswear with much whackier collections, but Spencer’s hip appeal with a strong British essence was a welcome break and one that will have sartorial gents begging for more.

Categories ,1970s, ,A/W 2012, ,Alex Reid, ,Athletic, ,AW12, ,british, ,English, ,Fair Isle, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,knitwear, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucien Freud, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Oliver Spencer, ,Rick Edwards, ,Rollnecks, ,Somerset House, ,tailoring, ,Tattoos, ,turban

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ong-Oaj Pairam: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Preview Interview

ONG-OAJ PAIRAM by Gaarte
ONG-OAJ PAIRAM S/S 2014 preview by Gaarte.

Thai born designer Ong-Oaj Pairam takes to the catwalk this season as part of Fashion Scout at the Freemasons’ Hall. Having trained with the likes of Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret, he combines precise tailoring with an eye for decorative detail. I caught up with Ong-Oaj for an exclusive preview of the new collection.

Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

You studied at Brighton University (so did I!) What is the best thing about the course these days?
I found the course really tough, and found I had a hard time just keeping my head down. The beauty of studying in Brighton is the ability to escape from it all when you need to switch off. You are surrounded by the beautiful countryside and the sea. The aftercare I have got from my tutors has been really valuable and they have been really supportive of me launching my own brand. The friends I made at uni are friends for life: many are taking the day of work for me and chipping in backstage to help with the show.

What three words best describe your style?
Confident, elegant, fun.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

What did you learn from working at Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret?
Proenza Schouler was only a small company when I started with them so I had to adapt very quickly to various roles. I would be pattern cutting, managing a runway show and running sales all in the same week. I was very lucky that Jack and Lazaro exposed me to everything. New York is also great place for people watching, and because I saw people making really brave yet sophisticated choices in what to wear it helped me develop my own style. Roland Mouret helped me refine my pattern cutting skills: he is a master at the body conscious dress. I learnt that simpler design is often harder to achieve yet just as impactful.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Spring Summer '14 Preview Collection by Rose Crees
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 Preview by Rose Crees.

How have you translated the idea of Drew Barrymore’s character in ET into a fashion collection? It sounds most intriguing. 
Haha, inspiration comes in the most extraordinary forms. Gertie (Drew Barrymore’s character) inspired me in many ways. Initially I emulated her childish curiosity in the creative process, exaggerating what is exciting and removing all the usual rules. She’s one tough cookie, despite her age, and I admired her strength. Without giving too much away, there are lots of cues to her character in the collection, including fabric choices, patterns, colour and perspectives. (Although there’s no gingham cowgirl uniforms or cut out bed sheet in this collection… yet…)
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013 by Zoe Gotts
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 preview by Zoe Gotts.

Why is it so important to you to print on British textiles, and where do you get this done?
We have so many skilled factories and teams in Britain and there is so much talent, yet it’s very easy to get work done overseas to save on cost. You miss out on a wealth of local talent, craft and inspiration if you save a few pennies by getting work done abroad. All the textiles in this collection were sourced and printed in Britain, and all my embroidery and my shoes have been manufactured here. It’s nice building a relationship with the companies and you learn so much more from the people. 
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

Embroidery was all done by Jenny King and her team, her studio is a five minute walk from my studio and she has a huge portfolio of spectacular embroidered pieces. My shoes were manufactured by Thomas Murphy, who is an incredible designer and has a small workshop in London. The textiles come from various factories, unfortunately they are mainly in Yorkshire so a bit too far for me to bribe them with cup-cakes. Printing is done through the Silk Bureau.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

How has your Thai heritage affected your approach to design? 
My Thai background has mainly affected my approach to business and my work ethic. My parents grew a successful (food) industry from nothing and inspired me to work very hard and achieve my dreams. Always start with the end in mind and keep focussed. They are also good at making sure I keep my business head on.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Brighton University, ,Drew Barrymore, ,ET, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gertie, ,interview, ,Jenny King, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ong-Oaj Pairam, ,Pop PR, ,preview, ,Proenza Schouler, ,Roland Mouret, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Silk Bureau, ,Thai, ,Thomas Murphy, ,Zoe Gotts

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Kingston MA

Amelia_LFW1_Yasmin Siddiqui, gaarte
Yasmin Siddiqui opens the Kingston MA show. Illustration by Gaarte.

Sometimes it’s hard to be heard amongst all the chatter and noise of LFW so it’s either very foolish (who’s got time to come?) or very inspired (you’ve got a ready made captive audience) to hold your MA show at the same time. I suspect Kingston University leaned the latter way, thinking why not jump on the fashion week bandwagon? They’d even secured a slot in the hallowed Freemasons’ Hall.

Kingston MA by Katherine Tromans Helen Taylor
Helen Taylor by Katherine Tromans.

Kingston MA by Katherine Tromans Alison Firth
Kingston MA by Katherine Tromans Alison Firth
Alison Firth by Katherine Tromans.

But it was late in the day, those of us who had been trogging around all day were pretty bloody knackered. Then the show was running behind and it was bloody hot in the hall… and we didn’t even have seated tickets. It seemed those had gone to the copious quantities of friends and relatives brought along by so many participants. Note to PRs – if you give us shit tickets you’ll probably get shit photos – I was hardly able to snap anything decent from my vantage point. And if you desperately want to be heard it really does pay to get the press on your side. With pretty pics.

Abby_Wright_Kingston_show Stacey Grant
Judy Zhang by Abby Wright.

Luckily we’ve got a crack team of illustrators who can make a proverbial silk purse out of a sow’s ear, or a beautiful image out of… well… not very much to look at, (which is just as well). But still, I like to have the option of good photos too. Pick ‘n’ mix and all that.

Amelia_LFW2_gaarte Yasmin Siddiqui,
Yasmin Siddiqui by Gaarte.

Amelia_LFW3_gaarte Faraz Hussain
Faraz Hussain by Gaarte.

And then the show went on… and on… Okay, so there’s a bonus to seeing several designers at once – when they’re of a very high calibre and you haven’t got a million other things to see and do. But I have to say, Kingston Uni, that this wasn’t up to the standard that London Fashion Week has become accustomed to. People were sneaking off all around me. Which leads me to my second piece of advice. Only go up against the best of what London design has to offer if you’re sure you can match it!

LFW-KingstonMA-Gemma-Milly Victor Chan
Victor Chan by Gemma Milly.

I’m sure many of the Kingston MA students are very talented, but I’m struggling to remember anything that stood out, and that is a bad thing. A lot of it was very similar in feel, nondescript in colouring with draping, oversize accessories and protrusions everywhere (they seem to be very much du jour) And I’m sorry, but a load of polygonally moulded leathers do not a fashion designer make.

LFW-KingstonMA2-Gemma-Milly Raine Hodgson
Raine Hodgson by Gemma Milly.

Stand outs, if I’m pushed? Obviously the first piece, courtesy of Yasmin Siddiqui, was a great piece of statement jewellery. There was some strong colouring combinations in the menswear from Faraz Hussain and Helen Taylor’s male jumpsuit was fun, as was her styling with wooden head frames. Generally I had a strong sense of shapelessness going on. But hey! I’ll let you make up your minds for yourselves, and in the meantime I think you’ll agree that my illustrators have done sterling work.

Kingston MA Yasmin Siddiqui photo by Amelia Gregory
Kingston MA Yasmin Siddiqui photo by Amelia Gregory
Yasmin Siddiqui. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Kingston MA Stacey Grant photo by Amelia Gregory
Stacey Grant

Kingston MA Faraz Hussain photo by Amelia Gregory
Faraz Hussain

Kingston MA Judy Zhang photo by Amelia Gregory
Kingston MA Judy Zhang photo by Amelia Gregory
Judy Zhang

Kingston MA Alison Firth photo by Amelia Gregory
Alison Firth

Kingston MA Helen Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Kingston MA Helen Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory
Helen Taylor

Kingston MA Victor Chan photo by Amelia Gregory
Victor Chan

Kingston MA Patricia Osbahr photo by Amelia Gregory
Patricia Osbahr

Categories ,Abby Wright, ,Alison Firth, ,Faraz Hussain, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gemma Milly, ,Graduate Show, ,Helen Taylor, ,Judy Zhang, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Kingston MA. LFW, ,London Fashion Week, ,Patricia Osbahr, ,Raine Hodgson, ,Stacey Grant, ,Victor Chan, ,Yasmin Siddiqui

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Preview: Menswear Day


Wintle, viagra order A/W 2010, illustrated by Antonia Parker

So it’s the last day of womenswear today, which means no more frocks and no more tits and arse. This is good. The womenswear press will jet off to Milan but London Fashion Week isn’t over – it’s MENSWEAR DAY tomorrow!

To celebrate, I’ve put together a list of the best of the best that we’ll be looking out for. This is by no means exclusive, because menswear day is usually pretty wonderful from start to finish. I pretty much like everything. I haven’t even touched on Matthew Miller, Morgan Allen Oliver, Christopher Shannon, KTZ, Hardy Amies, Tim Soar or Mr Hare. But, here we go anyway. In no particular order:

Carolyn Massey

Illustration by Paolo Caravello

I was hoping by now to have interviewed Carolyn Massey, but it’s a testament to her success that I haven’t managed to pin her down as yet. She only works around the sodding corner from my gaff, but it’s proven impossible in the run up to fashion week, so hopefully I’ll catch up with her when things slow down a bit (Oh my, how I’m looking forward to things slowing down a bit!)
Carolyn is easily one of my favourite menswear designers and she has an unparalleled approach to how men dress with her discrete military references and intelligent cuts. She describes a Carolyn Massey man as ‘someone with excellent taste, of course.’

E. Tautz

Illustration by Gabriel Alaya

E. Tautz, under the direction of Patrick Grant, is the epitome of Saville Row tailoring. His collections transport us to the golden age of tailoring’s most famous avenue; his cutting is second to none, his styling is extraordinary and he combines, with ease, classic English dressing with wit. Last year’s double-breasted jackets and three-piece suits had the menswear press practically falling over themselves.

Lou Dalton

Illustration by Kellie Black

I first saw Lou Dalton‘s work exactly a year ago at her salon show in the Portico Rooms, and what jolly good fun I had viewing her diminutive models sporting jazzed-up tricornes and luxurious knitwear. Last season saw Lou produce a more mature collection, featuring more great knitwear and exquisite tailored suits in vibrant tartan. Oh, I wish I’d bought that suit, I could swan around in it tomorrow. Damn.

Omar Kashoura

Illustration by Naomi Law

Omar Kashoura first caught my attention when Amelia and I caught his fantastic presentation last year in a swanky bar off the Strand. It was a superb setting in which his tailoring slotted in perfectly – dynamic suits with an exotic twist in all sorts of lovely pastel colours made for great photographs and an even better wardrobe. He’s quite rightly received NEWGEN sponsorship this year, so I am sure he’ll dazzle us again.

JW Anderson

Illustration by Chris Morris

JW Anderson has gone from strength to strength since his debut, er, whenever it was. He’s launched womenswear this year, which I haven’t seen yet, but his collections for men have been the highlight of menswear day for the past two seasons. Last season’s punk-inspired collection avoided being cheesy and instead showcased JW’s eye for styling and a fashion-forward aesthetic. The collection had it all – tartans, knits, bombers, love hearts, the lot. I can’t wait to see what he’ll come up with this year.

Sibling

Illustration by Rob Wallace

I’m sure you’re all familiar with Sibling. They really do make the most amazing knits, don’t they? Last year’s quirky striped numbers with hypnotic cartoon eyes were presented as part of the MAN installations and were by far the most enjoyable. This will be their fifth collection, and if last year’s contrasting graphic patterns and vibrant greens are anything to go by, we’re in for a treat this time around. It’s fun, it’s progressive, and it’s inspired by Frankenstein and zombies. What more could you want?

Wintle
It appears that Wintle isn’t showing this season, well not in London anyway. Bit of a shame, but last year I commissioned these beautiful illustrations by our Antonia Parker. I didn’t manage to post them last year, and I’ve been guilt ridden ever since. I’ve been worried sick and I haven’t slept. So, to quash my anxiety, I’m posting them now. Enjoy!

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Antonia Parker, ,Carolyn Massey, ,Chris Morris, ,Christopher Shannon, ,E. Tautz, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hardy Amies, ,JW Anderson, ,Kellie Black, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lou Dalton, ,Man, ,Matthew Miller, ,menswear, ,Morgan Allen Oliver, ,Mr Hare, ,Naomi Law, ,Omar Kashoura, ,Paolo Caravello, ,preview, ,Rob Wallace, ,S/S 2011, ,Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,tailoring, ,Tim Soar, ,Wintle

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Bernard Chandran


Bernard Chandran S/S 2012, capsule illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

I feel like myself and Bernard Chandran are good pals. He’d probably see it differently, but the first show I ever saw during a fashion week was his, and since then I haven’t missed a single one. I almost did this time – cruelly his show clashed with one of my other favourites, Jean Pierre Braganza. I was worried sick – who would I choose? In the end, the Amelia’s Magazine team had got JPB more than covered and I decided that I couldn’t miss Bernard after all.


Bernard Chandran S/S 2012, illustrated by Cruz

It’s a bloody good job I was so desperate to see it, because his show was at the Il Bottaccio venue on Grosvenor Place. If this doesn’t mean anything to you, it’s basically a 20 minute cycle by Boris from Somerset House, fashion week’s epicentre. It might not sound much, but when you’ve got less than twenty minutes to get there, it’s boiling hot on the Strand and rammed with buses churning emissions in your face and you’re prone to perspiration, it’s less than entirely ideal.






All photography by Matt Bramford

I arrived at the venue in a complete state. Perspiring, thirsty, hungry and miserable, I just wanted to get inside and get it over with. Luckily entrance was a breeze, and I found a good seat on which to waft my invite frantically and avoid glares from immaculate fashionos free of any perspiration. I sat next to Lida from The First To Know – I’ve spoken to her electronically a few times, and it was great to finally meet her. We chatted about a recent article of hers for the Ecologist where she speaks to Chandran about the lack of available craftsmanship in our country, and it’s definitely worth a read.


Bernard Chandran S/S 2012, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Bernard’s invite featured a duplicated picture of a glamorous woman from the 1950s. I had already guessed (naturally, as myself and Bernard are so friendly) that it was his mother. She had the same delicate bone structure and exotic appeal. It turns out that these two subjects – the 1950s and the matriarch of the Chandran dynasty – where Bernard’s inspiration this season.





The show featured many of Bernard’s now signature styles, but this time he’d cranked up the glamour factor and it really suited his unique dedication to sculpture and proportion.


Bernard Chandran S/S 2012, illustrated by Cruz

Look after look brought glamour, sophistication, elegant craftsmanship and a unique approach to dynamic cutting. Floor-length silk numbers, beautifully simple, sat happily with futuristic blazers with angular oversized lapels and a-line dresses with feather panels. The colour palette was a varied as it could be – pale pinks and blues, gold, silver, and vivid cobalt and fuchsia. Chandran’s evident bravery in his use of colour was a dominant feature once again.

It was quite a mix, and that’s what I quite like about Chandran; you can’t label his collections with this season’s buzz words and you could try to squeeze him into a box but he’ll burst out of it, wearing feathers and glittered fabrics and assymetric cuts (metapohrically speaking, of course).





The finale brought a stunning black model onto the catwalk wearing a red-carpet finest – a dazzling body-con number with a sweetheart neckline and a fishtail train. Delicate petal shapes in a complimentary colour had been applied all over the frock, teamed with high-gloss evening gloves. The model glided past us oozing sex appeal with a look of confidence that only this sort of piece can give.





Bernard, you didn’t let me down. Until next time, pal…

Categories ,1950s, ,Bernard Chandran, ,Boris Bikes, ,catwalk, ,Cruz, ,Feathers, ,First To Know, ,Front Row, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Glamour, ,Glitter, ,Grosvenor Place, ,Il Bottaccio, ,Lida Hujic, ,London Fashion Week, ,Off Schedule, ,Pop PR, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Sweat, ,the ecologist, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Felder Felder

Felder Felder SS 2011 by t.reidy

Felder Felder S/S 2011 by t.reidy.

Felder Felder are identical twin sisters Annette and Daniela Felder, and who studied together at Central Saint Martins (of course). According to the press release their S/S 2012 collection BANG! looked to the ‘bravery and bitten romance‘ of choreographer Pina Bausch, dosage which inspired their ‘modern undone style‘ of the kind preferred by uptown girls such as Jen Brill. Having never heard of Jen Brill I had to go google her: a model and photography agent of Chinese Australian origin she has or is apparently dating Terry Richardson. Which would account for her sudden it-girl infamy.

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Since the twins graduated just a few years ago they have quickly built a reputation for quirky combinations of girly and rock n roll aesthetics: attracting some famous patrons that include Rihanna, website like this Gwyneth Paltrow, and if the front row was anything to go by the ultimate Brit it-girl Peaches Geldof.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

A very gaunt looking Peaches was sat right across from me, her mouth dangling agog through the whole show as if desperate for a good meal. For god’s sake woman, eat! She kept self consciously adjusting her pose but luckily she didn’t distract me for long.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory peaches geldof

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

BANG! began with stunning graphic prints that swirled and splatted across flirty skater skirts paired with loose blouses. Over the top bondage inspired neck collars criss-crossed the chest and joined with belts to give a more hard edged feel. Stunning shoes by Kat Maconie were also given a matching print treatment, whilst metallic jackets, a dress and miniature backpack in glitzy pale blue added pizazz.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Gaarte.

Sheer fabrics were embellished with signature Felder Felder studs, this time offered in dangling bullet shapes on sweeping black dresses and short white frocks. Orange made a sunny appearance on models with slicked back locks and a collaboration with Triumph produced some sexy bikinis: oh to have a body like one of those models. It did at times feel as though there were too many incongruous shapes within one collection: A-line, bodycon, maxi, draped, flirty, they were all there.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal

Felder Felder S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Back at Somerset House I copped a quick feel of the gorgeous fabrics at the Felder Felder stand and quickly understood their appeal: no wonder it-girls, singers and actresses love the pretty yet hard-edged Felder Felder look.

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Felder Felder SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,BANG!, ,Barb Royal, ,BFC Tent, ,bodycon, ,Bullet, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Embellishment, ,Felder Felder, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gwyneth Paltrow, ,it-girl, ,Jen Brill, ,Kat Maconie, ,leather, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Metallic, ,Peaches Geldof, ,Pina Bausch, ,print, ,Rihanna, ,S/S 2012, ,Somerset House, ,Studs, ,t.reidy, ,Tina Reidy, ,Triumph, ,Twins

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jayne Pierson (featuring Pierson Lawlor)


Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, order illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Oof, visit this site I love a new fashion week site. I took a Boris from the action at Somerset House all the way to Old Street to see Jayne Pierson‘s show at the LSO St Luke’s venue. This historic Anglican church is almost three hundred years old, buy information pills and was rescued by the LSO when controversial plans to turn the beauty into offices were proposed. Thank heavens.


Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Tina Reidy

The church is set in a beautiful garden, and as I sweated my way through it, I thought what a romantic setting for a fashion show. These are thoughts I only have when suffering from sleep deprivation and RFSI (Repetitive Fashion Show Injury). Inside, some of the former glory has gone to make way for inevitable modernisations, but the imposing ceiling and cold stone walls still exist. A catwalk had been temporarily constructed where the aisle would once have been, and a film played on loop at the end of a photography shoot starring a rather dishy ballet dancer. It was all very exciting.


Photography by Amelia Gregory

The show eventually started after the mandatory bunfight for seats and flashbulb shower for Pandemonia. A man whose name I didn’t have a chance to write down explained that, this season, Jayne Pierson had worked with the ballet and we were in for a treat. The models were to be ballet dancers. I almost audibly ‘whooped’ at how refreshing it all was.


Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Models appeared cheekily from behind a partition, moving gracefully down the catwalk en pointe. I know this is one of life’s wonders and people train for years to get this right, but it doesn’t half make me cringe (perhaps that’s Black Swan‘s influence, too). I imagine the agony you put your body through to achieve such a graceful poise.


Photography by Matt Bramford

A mixture of male and female models appeared, wearing Jayne Piersons S/S 2012 collection. This was clearly a collection influenced by dance and drama of all kind. They floated past, some faster than others, some acting a little like they might have been drinking, but nonetheless looking equally as beautiful. The theatrics, as splendid as they were, did distract a little from the clothes, and it’s only since I’ve reviewed my pictures that I’ve got a real flavour for what Jayne Pierson has produced this season.


Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Gilly Rochester

Jayne Pierson‘s now statement shapes flooded the catwalk; exaggerated shoulders, tight waists. Corsets in high-gloss leather were playfully applied to looser garments in similar colours. Micro shorts were leather. A muted graphic print was used on a dangerous bikini and a halterneck onesie. Modest pastel vests had been sexed up with black pom-pom like shoulder details. A bodycon dress carried theatrical orange fringing; sophistication, glamour and exquisite craftsmanship evident in every piece.


Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Jayne Pierson‘s clever use of material and colour was as evident as it has been during her five fashion week outings. Leathers, suedes and silks all flow organically throughout this cohesive collection, helped along by a colour palette of stone, taupe, grey, champagne and sand.


Photography by Amelia Gregory

I’m not sure if it was the Royal Ballet dancing element having an influence, but the clothes were very dramatic, and I did wonder what they might look like modelled in the usual fashion. But a finale that brought the dancers pairing up to perform some dramatic lifts really raised eyebrows and audible gasps echoed around St Luke’s. Sitting across from me, it was clear Caryn Franklin loved it. And I did too.


Photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,Amelia, ,ballet, ,Black Swan, ,Caryn Franklin, ,catwalk, ,dance, ,Derek Lawlor, ,drama, ,En Pointe, ,Front Row, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Jayne Pierson, ,leather, ,LSO St Luke’s, ,Matt Bramford, ,Onesie, ,Pandemonia, ,review, ,RFSI, ,Royal Ballet, ,S/S 2012, ,Suede, ,Tina Reidy, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Krystof Strozyna

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

As anyone who attends the shows will know, viagra buy guessing who has priority tickets is always an amusing game. Is it the gold star? Surely double gold star is better? Or maybe this season purple or neon yellow signifies top cat for a certain PR? Jasper Garvida tickets certainly had us guessing – we were sent quite a handful, some with green dots on and all with the exciting words VIP. I made an educated guess that VIP with green dot was the most prestigious bet and I got it wrong – green dot was lesser.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi.

So it was that I found myself twiddling my thumbs as a bunch of friendly bloggers were whisked ahead of me, all gabbling excitedly about the “washing machine cocktail party” that they had just attended courtesy of Miele, who had then popped them straight in a taxi to the Freemasons Hall where they were ushered onto the front row. At the end of the day the best sticker to have wasn’t VIP at all, it simply had the immortal word Miele stamped on it.

Jasper Garvida‘s A/W 2011 collection was titled Le Baiser, meaning The Kiss, and was inspired by a confluence of East and West. It featured feminine tailoring with a distinctly vintage feel that was emphasised by the glamourous neatly swept up hairstyles and crystal drop earrings.

The strong opening outfit was a gorgeous black cylindrical backless dress, followed by a series of elegant grey numbers that featured cutouts to reveal the hips, thighs and back. Shoulders were draped, dropped and covered in armour-like sliced plastic embellishments that swung lazily as the models walked. Colour broke through in the form of a stunning chartreuse one shouldered dress followed by silky Fornasetti inspired circular prints and a bold giant keyhole placement print on rusty silk. Gigantic ruffles provided a key focus, counter-balancing the precise and beautiful tailoring.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Eventually russet gave way to a searing orangey red, quite definitely the colour of the season, but also in this instance noticeably the colour of the large Miele goodie bags under the front row seats. Without so much as a glance at my press release it was obvious to me that these were sponsored garments. Perfect for this season’s trends, but what happens next time round?

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

I left slightly bemused by the tenuous connection between domestic appliances and high fashion, but this was nevertheless a collection to remember. Anyway, as I know only too well, you’ve got to get your sponsorship where you can.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s blog about the same show right here.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

As anyone who attends the shows will know, website guessing who has priority tickets is always an amusing game. Is it the gold star? Surely double gold star is better? Or maybe this season purple or neon yellow signifies top cat for a certain PR? Jasper Garvida tickets certainly had us guessing – we were sent quite a handful, more about some with green dots on and all with the exciting words VIP. I made an educated guess that VIP with green dot was the most prestigious bet and I got it wrong – green dot was lesser.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi.

So it was that I found myself twiddling my thumbs as a bunch of friendly bloggers were whisked ahead of me, viagra buy all gabbling excitedly about the “washing machine cocktail party” that they had just attended courtesy of Miele, who had then popped them straight in a taxi to the Freemasons Hall where they were ushered onto the front row. At the end of the day the best sticker to have wasn’t VIP at all, it simply had the immortal word Miele stamped on it.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Jasper Garvida‘s A/W 2011 collection was titled Le Baiser, meaning The Kiss, and was inspired by a confluence of East and West. It featured feminine tailoring with a distinctly vintage feel that was emphasised by the glamourous neatly swept up hairstyles and crystal drop earrings.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

The strong opening outfit was a gorgeous black cylindrical backless dress, followed by a series of elegant grey numbers that featured cutouts to reveal the hips, thighs and back. Shoulders were draped, dropped and covered in armour-like sliced plastic embellishments that swung lazily as the models walked. Colour broke through in the form of a stunning chartreuse one shouldered dress followed by silky Fornasetti inspired circular prints and a bold giant keyhole placement print on rusty silk. Gigantic ruffles provided a key focus, counter-balancing the precise and beautiful tailoring.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Eventually russet gave way to a searing orangey red, quite definitely the colour of the season, but also in this instance noticeably the colour of the large Miele goodie bags under the front row seats. Without so much as a glance at my press release it was obvious to me that these were sponsored garments. Perfect for this season’s trends, but what happens next time round?

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

I left slightly bemused by the tenuous connection between domestic appliances and high fashion, but this was nevertheless a collection to remember. Anyway, as I know only too well, you’ve got to get your sponsorship where you can.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s blog about the same show right here.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

As anyone who attends the shows will know, dosage guessing who has priority tickets is always an amusing game. Is it the gold star? Surely double gold star is better? Or maybe this season purple or neon yellow signifies top cat for a certain PR? Jasper Garvida tickets certainly had us guessing – we were sent quite a handful, some with green dots on and all with the exciting words VIP. I made an educated guess that VIP with green dot was the most prestigious bet and I got it wrong – green dot was lesser.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi.

So it was that I found myself twiddling my thumbs as a bunch of friendly bloggers were whisked ahead of me, all gabbling excitedly about the “washing machine cocktail party” that they had just attended courtesy of Miele, who had then popped them straight in a taxi to the Freemasons Hall where they were ushered onto the front row. At the end of the day the best sticker to have wasn’t VIP at all, it simply had the immortal word Miele stamped on it.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida‘s A/W 2011 collection was titled Le Baiser, meaning The Kiss, and was inspired by a confluence of East and West. It featured feminine tailoring with a distinctly vintage feel that was emphasised by the glamourous neatly swept up hairstyles and crystal drop earrings.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

The strong opening outfit was a gorgeous black cylindrical backless dress, followed by a series of elegant grey numbers that featured cutouts to reveal the hips, thighs and back. Shoulders were draped, dropped and covered in armour-like sliced plastic embellishments that swung lazily as the models walked. Colour broke through in the form of a stunning chartreuse one shouldered dress followed by silky Fornasetti inspired circular prints and a bold giant keyhole placement print on rusty silk. Gigantic ruffles provided a key focus, counter-balancing the precise and beautiful tailoring.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Eventually russet gave way to a searing orangey red, quite definitely the colour of the season, but also in this instance noticeably the colour of the large Miele goodie bags under the front row seats. Without so much as a glance at my press release it was obvious to me that these were sponsored garments. Perfect for this season’s trends, but what happens next time round?

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I left slightly bemused by the tenuous connection between domestic appliances and high fashion, but this was nevertheless a collection to remember. Anyway, as I know only too well, you’ve got to get your sponsorship where you can.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s blog about the same show right here.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

As anyone who attends the shows will know, this web guessing who has priority tickets is always an amusing game. Is it the gold star? Surely double gold star is better? Or maybe this season purple or neon yellow signifies top cat for a certain PR? Jasper Garvida tickets certainly had us guessing – we were sent quite a handful, some with green dots on and all with the exciting words VIP. I made an educated guess that VIP with green dot was the most prestigious bet and I got it wrong – green dot was lesser.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi.

So it was that I found myself twiddling my thumbs as a bunch of friendly bloggers were whisked ahead of me, all gabbling excitedly about the “washing machine cocktail party” that they had just attended courtesy of Miele, who had then popped them straight in a taxi to the Freemasons Hall where they were ushered onto the front row. At the end of the day the best sticker to have wasn’t VIP at all, it simply had the immortal word Miele stamped on it.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida‘s A/W 2011 collection was titled Le Baiser, meaning The Kiss, and was inspired by a confluence of East and West. It featured feminine tailoring with a distinctly vintage feel that was emphasised by the glamourous neatly swept up hairstyles and crystal drop earrings.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

The strong opening outfit was a gorgeous black cylindrical backless dress, followed by a series of elegant grey numbers that featured cutouts to reveal the hips, thighs and back. Shoulders were draped, dropped and covered in armour-like sliced plastic embellishments that swung lazily as the models walked. Colour broke through in the form of a stunning chartreuse one shouldered dress followed by silky Fornasetti inspired circular prints and a bold giant keyhole placement print on rusty silk. Gigantic ruffles provided a key focus, counter-balancing the precise and beautiful tailoring.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Eventually russet gave way to a searing orangey red, quite definitely the colour of the season, but also in this instance noticeably the colour of the large Miele goodie bags under the front row seats. Without so much as a glance at my press release it was obvious to me that these were sponsored garments. Perfect for this season’s trends, but what happens next time round?

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I left slightly bemused by the tenuous connection between domestic appliances and high fashion, but this was nevertheless a collection to remember. Anyway, as I know only too well, you’ve got to get your sponsorship where you can.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s blog about the same show right here.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

As anyone who attends the shows will know, information pills guessing who has priority tickets is always an amusing game. Is it the gold star? Surely double gold star is better? Or maybe this season purple or neon yellow signifies top cat for a certain PR? Jasper Garvida tickets certainly had us guessing – we were sent quite a handful, some with green dots on and all with the exciting words VIP. I made an educated guess that VIP with green dot was the most prestigious bet and I got it wrong – green dot was lesser.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi.

So it was that I found myself twiddling my thumbs as a bunch of friendly bloggers were whisked ahead of me, all gabbling excitedly about the “washing machine cocktail party” that they had just attended courtesy of Miele, who had then popped them straight in a taxi to the Freemasons Hall where they were ushered onto the front row. At the end of the day the best sticker to have wasn’t VIP at all, it simply had the immortal word Miele stamped on it.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida‘s A/W 2011 collection was titled Le Baiser, meaning The Kiss, and was inspired by a confluence of East and West. It featured feminine tailoring with a distinctly vintage feel that was emphasised by the glamourous neatly swept up hairstyles and crystal drop earrings.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

The strong opening outfit was a gorgeous black cylindrical backless dress, followed by a series of elegant grey numbers that featured cutouts to reveal the hips, thighs and back. Shoulders were draped, dropped and covered in armour-like sliced plastic embellishments that swung lazily as the models walked. Colour broke through in the form of a stunning chartreuse one shouldered dress followed by silky Fornasetti inspired circular prints and a bold giant keyhole placement print on rusty silk. Gigantic ruffles provided a key focus, counter-balancing the precise and beautiful tailoring.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Eventually russet gave way to a searing orangey red, quite definitely the colour of the season, but also in this instance noticeably the colour of the large Miele goodie bags under the front row seats. Without so much as a glance at my press release it was obvious to me that these were sponsored garments. Perfect for this season’s trends, but what happens next time round?

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I left slightly bemused by the tenuous connection between domestic appliances and high fashion, but this was nevertheless a collection to remember. Anyway, as I know only too well, you’ve got to get your sponsorship where you can.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s blog about the same show right here.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

As anyone who attends the shows will know, view guessing who has priority tickets is always an amusing game. Is it the gold star? Surely double gold star is better? Or maybe this season purple or neon yellow signifies top cat for a certain PR? Jasper Garvida tickets certainly had us guessing – we were sent quite a handful, sickness some with green dots on and all with the exciting words VIP. I made an educated guess that VIP with green dot was the most prestigious bet and I got it wrong – green dot was lesser.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Madi.

So it was that I found myself twiddling my thumbs as a bunch of friendly bloggers were whisked ahead of me, all gabbling excitedly about the “washing machine cocktail party” that they had just attended courtesy of Miele, who had then popped them straight in a taxi to the Freemasons Hall where they were ushered onto the front row. At the end of the day the best sticker to have wasn’t VIP at all, it simply had the immortal word Miele stamped on it.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida‘s A/W 2011 collection was titled Le Baiser, meaning The Kiss, and was inspired by a confluence of East and West. It featured feminine tailoring with a distinctly vintage feel that was emphasised by the glamourous neatly swept up hairstyles and crystal drop earrings by Lucas Jack.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Toni Bowater.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

The strong opening outfit was a gorgeous black cylindrical backless dress, followed by a series of elegant grey numbers that featured cutouts to reveal the hips, thighs and back. Shoulders were draped, dropped and covered in armour-like sliced plastic embellishments that swung lazily as the models walked. Colour broke through in the form of a stunning chartreuse one shouldered dress followed by silky Fornasetti inspired circular prints and a bold giant keyhole placement print on rusty silk. Gigantic ruffles provided a key focus, counter-balancing the precise and beautiful tailoring.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Eventually russet gave way to a searing orangey red, quite definitely the colour of the season, but also in this instance noticeably the colour of the large Miele goodie bags under the front row seats. Without so much as a glance at my press release it was obvious to me that these were sponsored garments. Perfect for this season’s trends, but what happens next time round?

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I left slightly bemused by the tenuous connection between domestic appliances and high fashion, but this was nevertheless a collection to remember. Anyway, as I know only too well, you’ve got to get your sponsorship where you can.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryJasper Garvida A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Garvida A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Katie Antoniou’s blog about the same show right here.

Illustration By Artist Andrea

I was very nervous about Jasper’s show, symptoms as I adored his Spring/Summer collection so much that I was worried my expectations would be too high. But I wasn’t disappointed- the sound of rainfall set the mood for the show, order and the slats of the more theatrical pieces replicated this noise as the models walked. One maxi-dress was tied at the waist with a belt hung with oversized keys, information pills which clinked together as she walked. The inclusion of sounds in a catwalk show helps to make it all seem more three dimensional. Reworked, instrumental covers of 90s tunes by the likes of Nirvana also created a great soundtrack.


Whilst a number of the dresses were so ostentatious- and according to reports from friends of mine backstage, so incredibly heavy-that they are unlikely to be worn by the likes of you and me, Jasper cleverly takes the textures of these pieces and works them into accessories like clutch bags and statement ruff-style necklaces that are much easier to integrate into your real-life wardrobe.

Illustration by Artist Andrea

Inspired by the novel ‘Soie’ by Alessandro Baricco about a European man who becomes enchanted with the East, there is a distinct oriental feel to the colour palette and the silhouettes.Lace dresses with thigh-high slits and completely backless, full length evening gowns added to the sensuality of the silk and lace.

Iconic Fornasetti-inspired prints make fantastic statement pieces, as well as a knitted maxi number, the knitwear trend instigated by the likes of Craig Lawrence and Mark Fast showing no sign of dying.The hair was elegantly side-swept in a vintage-inspired up-do; a look complimented by Lucas Jack drop earrings.


Its no coincidence that my favourite shows on Friday, and so far of LFW altogether, are the two that featured lots of colour, a few show-stopping, theatrical pieces, gorgeous vintage-inspired prints, and silhouettes designed for a womanly shape.I’m referring to Prophetik and Jasper Garvida. However, both shows also share the same single criticism from me- these are sexy designs, can you please put them on women with sexier figures?They would look BETTER.Honest.The corsets of Prophetik were desperate for some heaving bosoms a la costume drama, whilst some of Jasper’s models were painfully thin.Its something I noticed at his last show too, and I’ve heard the same feedback from a number of people, even the illustrators I sent my photos to were shocked.Jasper is represented by one of the loveliest, most down-to-earth PR companies around, so I really hope they pass thes comments on to him, as its really the only criticism I have of the show.

Photos by Katie Antoniou


Illustration by Andrea Peterson, recipe aka Artist Andrea.

I was very nervous about Jasper’s show, as I adored his Spring/Summer collection so much that I was worried my expectations would be too high. But I wasn’t disappointed- the sound of rainfall set the mood for the show, and the slats of the more theatrical pieces replicated this noise as the models walked. One maxi-dress was tied at the waist with a belt hung with oversized keys, which clinked together as she walked. The inclusion of sounds in a catwalk show helps to make it all seem more three dimensional. Reworked, instrumental covers of 90s tunes by the likes of Nirvana also created a great soundtrack.

Whilst a number of the dresses were so ostentatious – and according to reports from friends of mine backstage, so incredibly heavy – that they are unlikely to be worn by the likes of you and me, Jasper cleverly takes the textures of these pieces and works them into accessories like clutch bags and statement ruff-style necklaces that are much easier to integrate into your real-life wardrobe.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

Inspired by the novel ‘Soie’ by Alessandro Baricco about a European man who becomes enchanted with the East, there is a distinct oriental feel to the colour palette and the silhouettes.Lace dresses with thigh-high slits and completely backless, full length evening gowns added to the sensuality of the silk and lace.

Iconic Fornasetti-inspired prints make fantastic statement pieces, as well as a knitted maxi number, the knitwear trend instigated by the likes of Craig Lawrence and Mark Fast showing no sign of dying. The hair was elegantly side-swept in a vintage-inspired up-do; a look complimented by Lucas Jack drop earrings.

It’s no coincidence that my favourite shows on Friday, and so far of LFW altogether, are the two that featured lots of colour, a few show-stopping, theatrical pieces, gorgeous vintage-inspired prints, and silhouettes designed for a womanly shape.I’m referring to Prophetik and Jasper Garvida. However, both shows also share the same single criticism from me – these are sexy designs, can you please put them on women with sexier figures? They would look BETTER. Honest. The corsets of Prophetik were desperate for some heaving bosoms a la costume drama, whilst some of Jasper’s models were painfully thin. It’s something I noticed at his last show too, and I’ve heard the same feedback from a number of people, even the illustrators I sent my photos to were shocked. Jasper is represented by one of the loveliest, most down-to-earth PR companies around, so I really hope they pass thes comments on to him, as its really the only criticism I have of the show.

All photography by Katie Antoniou.

You can see more of Andrea Peterson’s work in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Illustrations by Ankolie

Even the invitation to this show had me excited; detail of a vintage toile print on a fabric corset lined with vintage style brass buttons and the byline ‘inspired by the court of Louis XV when art became frivolous’ grabbed my attention.Because all of this is frivolous, viagra order isn’t it?We’re in the middle of a recession and yet here we are, purchase still feeding are obsession with fashion and art because it has become such an integral part of our lives.Combining fashion and music is a big part of my job as a stylist to musicians, drugs so opening the show with Analize Ching on the violin was a big hit with me, followed by wonderful orchestral music that evoked the atmosphere of a French royal court.


I’d been a little underwhelmed by a lot of very drab Autumn/Winter collections, where hues vary only from black,to greys, some cream and back to black. The colours Prophetik used are all natural, with plum shades blended from madder root, rumex, logwood and indigo, and burgundy mixed from madder root, curled dock and gallnut. Adding yet more splashes of colour and prints were the quilted pieces, handed down from Jeff’s grandmother Lola from Tennesse. Hemp, cactus silk and ostrich feathers provided stunning texture and shape to the pieces. Accessories label ‘Dotted Loop’ provided reworked vintage accessories and even the shoes were made from vegetable-tanned leather.


Its rare that I can get at all excited by menswear, but the pieces in this collection spoke to the avid period-drama fan inside me. Military inspired jackets and riding boots?Phwoar.Yes please. Jeff himself appeared at the end showing how the look can be worked, though I’m sure he could probably get a way with wearing pretty much anything and still look like he just finished writing poetry/surfing/horse-riding; all listed as his hobbies.Only someone this comfortable with his masculinity could design coats for men made out of pastel pink quilts.


Corsets, tailored jackets and voluminous skirts; Jeff is very good at designing clothes for real women’s bodies.He recently dressed the lovely Livia Firth for the 2011 Golden Globes, and I can only imagine that his celebrity following will continue to increase.The final dress, ‘Mrs Moulton’ features ostrich feathers that shed naturally twice a year (from the ostrich, not the dress-that would be a high maintenance frock indeed) hand sewn on white silk and organza- I can totally picture this as a celebrity wedding dress.Watch this space.


I’ll leave you with Jeff’s take on Renaissance Art.I think it’s very interesting considering our current pre-occupation with all things vintage.
‘Renaissance art is not a rebirth as one implies, but freedom from the past. Unconcerned with what has been said or done, living in the present with an immediate relation to all things…achievement does not birth beauty but raw effort confessing its own failures and in the confession is the beauty of Art.’

Photos by Katie Antoniou

Illustrations by Ankolie.

Even the invitation to this show had me excited; detail of a vintage toile print on a fabric corset lined with vintage style brass buttons and the byline ‘inspired by the court of Louis XV when art became frivolous’ grabbed my attention.Because all of this is frivolous, isn’t it?We’re in the middle of a recession and yet here we are, pilule still feeding are obsession with fashion and art because it has become such an integral part of our lives.Combining fashion and music is a big part of my job as a stylist to musicians, web so opening the show with Analize Ching on the violin was a big hit with me, followed by wonderful orchestral music that evoked the atmosphere of a French royal court.

I’d been a little underwhelmed by a lot of very drab Autumn/Winter collections, where hues vary only from black,to greys, some cream and back to black. The colours Prophetik used are all natural, with plum shades blended from madder root, rumex, logwood and indigo, and burgundy mixed from madder root, curled dock and gallnut. Adding yet more splashes of colour and prints were the quilted pieces, handed down from Jeff’s grandmother Lola from Tennesse. Hemp, cactus silk and ostrich feathers provided stunning texture and shape to the pieces. Accessories label ‘Dotted Loop’ provided reworked vintage accessories and even the shoes were made from vegetable-tanned leather.

It’s rare that I can get at all excited by menswear, but the pieces in this collection spoke to the avid period-drama fan inside me. Military inspired jackets and riding boots?Phwoar.Yes please. Jeff himself appeared at the end showing how the look can be worked, though I’m sure he could probably get a way with wearing pretty much anything and still look like he just finished writing poetry/surfing/horse-riding; all listed as his hobbies.Only someone this comfortable with his masculinity could design coats for men made out of pastel pink quilts.

Corsets, tailored jackets and voluminous skirts; Jeff is very good at designing clothes for real women’s bodies. He recently dressed the lovely Livia Firth for the 2011 Golden Globes, and I can only imagine that his celebrity following will continue to increase. The final dress, ‘Mrs Moulton’ features ostrich feathers that shed naturally twice a year (from the ostrich, not the dress-that would be a high maintenance frock indeed) hand sewn on white silk and organza – I can totally picture this as a celebrity wedding dress. Watch this space.

I’ll leave you with Jeff’s take on Renaissance Art. I think it’s very interesting considering our current pre-occupation with all things vintage:
‘Renaissance art is not a rebirth as one implies, but freedom from the past. Unconcerned with what has been said or done, living in the present with an immediate relation to all things…achievement does not birth beauty but raw effort confessing its own failures and in the confession is the beauty of Art.’


All photography by Katie Antoniou.

Illustrations by Ankolie.

Even the invitation to this show had me excited; detail of a vintage toile print on a fabric corset lined with vintage style brass buttons and the byline ‘inspired by the court of Louis XV when art became frivolous’ grabbed my attention.Because all of this is frivolous, cure isn’t it?We’re in the middle of a recession and yet here we are, generic still feeding are obsession with fashion and art because it has become such an integral part of our lives.Combining fashion and music is a big part of my job as a stylist to musicians, so opening the show with Analize Ching on the violin was a big hit with me, followed by wonderful orchestral music that evoked the atmosphere of a French royal court.

I’d been a little underwhelmed by a lot of very drab Autumn/Winter collections, where hues vary only from black,to greys, some cream and back to black. The colours Prophetik used are all natural, with plum shades blended from madder root, rumex, logwood and indigo, and burgundy mixed from madder root, curled dock and gallnut. Adding yet more splashes of colour and prints were the quilted pieces, handed down from Jeff’s grandmother Lola from Tennesse. Hemp, cactus silk and ostrich feathers provided stunning texture and shape to the pieces. Accessories label ‘Dotted Loop’ provided reworked vintage accessories and even the shoes were made from vegetable-tanned leather.

It’s rare that I can get at all excited by menswear, but the pieces in this collection spoke to the avid period-drama fan inside me. Military inspired jackets and riding boots?Phwoar.Yes please. Jeff himself appeared at the end showing how the look can be worked, though I’m sure he could probably get a way with wearing pretty much anything and still look like he just finished writing poetry/surfing/horse-riding; all listed as his hobbies.Only someone this comfortable with his masculinity could design coats for men made out of pastel pink quilts.

Corsets, tailored jackets and voluminous skirts; Jeff is very good at designing clothes for real women’s bodies. He recently dressed the lovely Livia Firth for the 2011 Golden Globes, and I can only imagine that his celebrity following will continue to increase. The final dress, ‘Mrs Moulton’ features ostrich feathers that shed naturally twice a year (from the ostrich, not the dress-that would be a high maintenance frock indeed) hand sewn on white silk and organza – I can totally picture this as a celebrity wedding dress. Watch this space.

I’ll leave you with Jeff’s take on Renaissance Art. I think it’s very interesting considering our current pre-occupation with all things vintage:
‘Renaissance art is not a rebirth as one implies, but freedom from the past. Unconcerned with what has been said or done, living in the present with an immediate relation to all things…achievement does not birth beauty but raw effort confessing its own failures and in the confession is the beauty of Art.’


All photography by Katie Antoniou.

Illustrations by Ankolie.

Even the invitation to this show had me excited; detail of a vintage toile print on a fabric corset lined with vintage style brass buttons and the byline ‘inspired by the court of Louis XV when art became frivolous’ grabbed my attention. Because all of this is frivolous, health isn’t it? We’re in the middle of a recession and yet here we are, malady still feeding are obsession with fashion and art because it has become such an integral part of our lives. Combining fashion and music is a big part of my job as a stylist to musicians, so opening the show with Analize Ching on the violin was a big hit with me, followed by wonderful orchestral music that evoked the atmosphere of a French royal court.

I’d been a little underwhelmed by a lot of very drab Autumn/Winter collections, where hues vary only from black,to greys, some cream and back to black. The colours Prophetik used are all natural, with plum shades blended from madder root, rumex, logwood and indigo, and burgundy mixed from madder root, curled dock and gallnut. Adding yet more splashes of colour and prints were the quilted pieces, handed down from Jeff’s grandmother Lola from Tennesse. Hemp, cactus silk and ostrich feathers provided stunning texture and shape to the pieces. Accessories label ‘Dotted Loop’ provided reworked vintage accessories and even the shoes were made from vegetable-tanned leather.

It’s rare that I can get at all excited by menswear, but the pieces in this collection spoke to the avid period-drama fan inside me. Military inspired jackets and riding boots? Phwoar. Yes please. Jeff himself appeared at the end showing how the look can be worked, though I’m sure he could probably get a way with wearing pretty much anything and still look like he just finished writing poetry/surfing/horse-riding; all listed as his hobbies. Only someone this comfortable with his masculinity could design coats for men made out of pastel pink quilts.

Corsets, tailored jackets and voluminous skirts; Jeff is very good at designing clothes for real women’s bodies. He recently dressed the lovely Livia Firth for the 2011 Golden Globes, and I can only imagine that his celebrity following will continue to increase. The final dress, ‘Mrs Moulton’ features ostrich feathers that shed naturally twice a year (from the ostrich, not the dress-that would be a high maintenance frock indeed) hand sewn on white silk and organza – I can totally picture this as a celebrity wedding dress. Watch this space.

I’ll leave you with Jeff’s take on Renaissance Art. I think it’s very interesting considering our current pre-occupation with all things vintage:
‘Renaissance art is not a rebirth as one implies, but freedom from the past. Unconcerned with what has been said or done, living in the present with an immediate relation to all things…achievement does not birth beauty but raw effort confessing its own failures and in the confession is the beauty of Art.’


All photography by Katie Antoniou.
Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011 by Gabriel ‘Gaarte’ Ayala.
Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011 by Gabriel ‘Gaarte’ Ayala.

Krystof Strozyna has been on my radar for what seems like forever in fashion… which in practice means a couple of years – ever since we wrote about him in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine, discount shortly after his graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2007. Which makes it all the more annoying that we don’t receive proper tickets to his shows. I hate e-invites, view I really do. I always forget to print them out which usually means I forget to attend the show (I need tickets IN MY HANDS during LFW – there’s just too much to juggle otherwise) and they’re invariably no good for anything better than standing. Basically, they just don’t cut it.

Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011 by Gabriel ‘Gaarte’ Ayala.
Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011 by Gabriel ‘Gaarte’ Ayala.

Luckily my face is so well known around Fashion Scout that I can usually slide into any show with no problem. So it was that I got cajoled in to see Krystof Strozyna‘s A/W collection – well, it didn’t take much to be honest. Apparently Kimberly Walsh was there too, flying the flag for Girls Aloud during a rare break for Nicola Roberts. I can imagine her curves would suit his sexy 80s inspired draped tailoring a little better anyhow.

Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011 by Matilde Sazio
Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011 by Matilde Sazio.

For the most part this collection did not disappoint, featuring tailored black and flesh tones combined with undulating shades of ruched blue chiffon. A little more awkward was a one legged dress – maybe a good idea in practice but somewhat inelegant on the catwalk.

Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011 by Gabriel ‘Gaarte’ Ayala.
Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011 by Gabriel ‘Gaarte’ Ayala.

The winning numbers were undoubtedly Krystof Strozyna‘s gorgeous neon fractal prints, which brought a splash of welcome colour to the ubiquitous Little Black Dress… and a devastating punch delivered by the liberal use of acidic orange. Red may have been the favoured highlight of many an A/W collection but on the strength of this I’m voting for vibrant orange. Yum yum.

Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryKrystof Strozyna A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Krystof Strozyna A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gabriel ‘Gaarte’ Ayala, ,girls aloud, ,Goodley PR, ,Kimberly Walsh, ,Krystof Strozyna, ,Matilde Sazio, ,Nicola Roberts

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Prophetik (by Amelia)

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester.

I will confess now. I may have gone over the top. Yes, nurse physician this blog is positively popping at the seams with illustrations. And it’s the FOURTH, clinic yes the FOURTH one to hit our website. But really it’s no surprise that Prophetik is such a big draw for both writers and illustrators, prostate peddling as he does an uber romantic view of the world that is steeped in a deep love for the natural environment.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson.

For his A/W 2011 Artist Wonderment collection designer Jeff Garner once again referenced times past, this time the “frivolous snobbery” of the court of Louix XV, an epoch that for him epitomises the falsity of impulsive consumption. Having interviewed Jeff Garner for my book, Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration I know how important it is for him to live a fully accountable life, and it seems to me that the title of this collection refers to the purity of artistic vision which he himself attempts to put into practice in everything he does.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Gilly RochesterProphetik A/W 2011 by Gilly RochesterProphetik A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Gilly Rochester.

The show opened in typical Jeff style, with live vocals followed by a madly thrashing classical violinist, who strutted down the catwalk as if her life depended on it.

Analiza Ching by Amelia Gregory
Violinist Analiza Ching by Gabriel 'Gaarte' Ayala
Violinist Analiza Ching by Gabriel ‘Gaarte’ Ayala.

But it was the finer detailing which really stood out as the models swept past me. His ball gowns and corseted dresses were awash with gorgeously constructed patchwork, twirly brocade, gilded buttons and ruffles. At a time when trains, tails, hooped and boned structures of every description have been big across all runways, his is an aesthetic which makes total sense right now.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Danielle Shepherd
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Danielle Shepherd.

For me the absolute stand outs were a couple of stupendous quilted jackets… and by quilted I really do actually mean made out of antique quilts, one of which belonged on his childhood bed that he must surely have baulked at destructing – just a tiny bit. But as his stylist Rebekah Roy pointed out to me later on, it makes absolute sense to refashion a quilt in this way – a quilt that in the very first place was made from fabric remnants.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson.

This approach of continuous upcycling is certainly innovative, and epitomises what I love most about Jeff: his dedication to sustainable practice. All his fabrics are painstakingly hand dyed with a magical potion of herbs in a process that takes many weeks to accomplish – this season’s special plum colour was obtained by mixing up a unique blend of madder root, sorrel, logwood and indigo.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Karina Yarv
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Karina Yarv.

The love he puts into every single part of his work is evident in the outcome, and of anyone on the ethical fashion scene I really feel that Prophetik is pushing the way forward by putting on a ambitious catwalk show that ensures excitement amongst mainstream fashionistas. Prophetik opened Fashion Scout for the third season running and the Freemasons Hall was packed to the rafters, including famous front row attendees in the form of Hilary Alexander and Livia Firth, erstwhile wife of Colin and celebrity advocate of ethical fashion. At the end Jeff took a demure bow dressed in a cream silky ruffled top and powder blue peddle pushers, sporting his trademark swept back ponytail: if there’s one major advocate for dressing this way it’s the ever dapper Jeff Garner himself.

Prophetik A/W 2011 by Farzeen JabbarProphetik A/W 2011 by Farzeen Jabbar
Prophetik A/W 2011 by Farzeen Jabbar.

I can only hope that Jeff’s dedication to the ethical cause will rub off on other members of the fashion industry. Soon.

You can read Matt Bramford’s review here, Helen Martin’s review here and Katie Antoniou’s review here.

Prophetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryProphetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Prophetik A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read more about Jeff Garner‘s design philosophy in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Analiza Ching, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Artist Wonderment, ,Danielle Shepherd, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Farzeen Jabbar, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Jeff Garner, ,Karina Yarv, ,Livia Firth, ,Louix XV, ,Prophetik, ,Quilt, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Upcycling, ,Violinist

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: J.W. Anderson

ACOFI Concrete Hermit
Pick Me Up Paul Blow
Tiger Feet by Paul Blow.

Yesterday 2011′s Pick Me Up once again kicked off in the Embankment Galleries at Somerset House. I went along to the opening night to check out this years talent.

Like last year, cialis 40mg the lower galleries are once again devoted to the young rising stars of graphic design and illustration. This is the section for which I was asked to nominate a selection of Up and Coming illustrators many months ago. None of my suggestions were picked, and on the basis of some artists who were chosen I would question the description. Tom Gauld – an old acquaintance of mine – has surely been at the top of the illustrative game for many years, as have some of the others. At 48 years old American artist Polly Becker is hardly young. Although it’s great to be feted at any time in your career it’s a bit of an oversight to champion well established artists as Ones to Watch. But nonetheless let’s continue with the review: there was much to enjoy in this gallery.

Pick Me Up 2011-Kate Moross
London based designer Kate Moross has quickly established a glowing reputation for her bold psychedelic style.

Pick Me Up NIght & Day by McBess
Pick Me Up NIght & Day by McBess
Matthieu Bessudo, aka McBess, favours a cartoonagraphic style with a surreal edge. Expect naked ladies with ninja faces. I liked the intricate stories in the large scale Night & Day artwork best.

Pick Me Up Seiko Kato
Seiko Kato was a real discovery – this Japanese artist lives in Brighton and produces amazingly detailed collages, filled with colourful flora and fauna. The Funeral is a beautifully surreal large scale work.

Pick Me Up 2011-Andy Rementer
I loved the bold colours and shapes of Andy Rementer.

Pick Me Up 2011-Jules Julien
Jules Julien makes macabre fine line work influenced by the surrealist drawing game Exquisite Corpse.

Pick Me Up 2011-Jessica Hische
Typography is Jessica Hische‘s speciality. Another American, she is a senior designer for Louise Fili Ltd. Beautifully rendered, if a little polished.

Pick Me Up 2011-Clara TernePick Me Up 2011-Clara Terne
Swedish designer Clara Terne is inspired by the deep oceans and outer space, both equally other worldly. Kaleido did pretty much what it said on the tin. Nebuloso was a beautiful piece of digital art.

Pick Me Up 2011-MVM
MVM is a Norwegian and co founder of the Grandpeople design studio. He employs a fluid minimalist form and exhibits huge silk banners – almost Japanese in appearance.

Pick Me Up 2011-Eda Akaltun
Eda Akaltun is a founding member of Nobrow – evident in her distinctive colour palette – and favours a collagey painted approach that is instantly recognisable.

Pick Me Up 2011-Victo Ngai
From Hong Kong but working in London, Victo Ngai graduated from the Rhode Island School of Design. I loved her Japanese influenced drawings, which recall the fine detailing of woodblocks combined with a whimsical touch.

Pick Me Up 2011-James Graham
James Graham favours a simple graphic aesthetic.

Pick Me Up 2011-Revenge is Sweet
Revenge is Sweet shows bold 80s art deco artwork that has obvious advertising applications.

Pick Me Up 2011-Sarah ArnettPick Me Up 2011-Sarah ArnettPick Me Up 2011-Sarah Arnett
Sarah Arnett shows some beautiful digitally created flower artwork, densely created in curious colourways. Her original training as a textile designer is evident in these botanically inspired pieces.

Pick Me Up 2011-Gwenola Carrere
From Belgium, Gwenola Carrere shows some fabulous screenprints. She has published three children’s books to date. I loved her bold playful style.

Nigel Peake, from Ireland, makes lovely delicate abstract work. He has exhibited globally and I’ve always considered him more of a fine artist.

Pick Me Up 2011-Takeru Toyokura
Another Japanese artist, Takeru Toyokura shows amazing felt collages that depict weird faceless figures in surreal situations. Blonde haired children float against grandiose architecture. Strangely wonderful.

Pick Me Up 2011-Otecki
Polish artist Otecki creates black block prints inspired by both traditional iconography and graffitti. Loved his owl.

Pick Me Up 2011-Yoh Nagao
Another Japanese artist: Yoh Nagao is another surrealist collagist (do you sense a bit of a theme yet?)

Annelie Carlstrom uses a propelling pencil to fashion detailed pictures of girls with huge faces and extravagant hair. Quite unsettling.

Pick Me Up 2011-Paul BlowPick Me Up 2011-Paul BlowPick Me Up 2011-Paul Blow
Paul Blow‘s work really caught my eye for it’s strong colours and amusing narratives.

Pick Me Up 2011-Tom Gauld
Tom Gauld creates a weekly cartoon for the Guardian newspaper and you will no doubt be familiar with his unique drawings and quirky ideas – he used to run an independent publishing house with my bessie mate, the super talented Simone Lia.

Pick Me Up 2011-Polly Becker
Polly Becker‘s surrealist illustrations are created through the assemblage of ephemera.

Pick Me Up 2011-Stefanie Posavec
My boyfriend was most taken with the work of Stefanie Posavec, a graduate of Colorado State University who has an MA in Communication Design from Central Saint Martins. Her data visualisation is almost autistic in it’s detail.

I would love to see more emphasis on really new talent in this section, or perhaps in another bespoke section. Not to mention more variety in style (surreal, collage…) and a real nod to all the amazing home bred talent that is so prevalent on the blogosphere, in the zine world and elsewhere in the UK. The work shown is of an undoubtedly high standard but I think it’s an opportunity missed.

Pick Me Up 2011-Print Club London
Print Club London.

Nobrow and Ditto Press showcase their innovative independent publishing work on this floor, then above and below this gallery are stationed the collectives who pitched to take part in Pick Me Up. Print Club London is once again holding live screen-printing workshops.

Pick Me Up 2011-Sister Arrow
I particularly liked the print (for sale) by Sister Arrow, who has created an imaginary pygmy super-race simply called Sumo Babies of which I presume Crystal String Dance is one.

Pick Me Up 2011-Margaux Carpentier
I also liked Margaux Carpentier‘s work. Her print is inspired by an Eskimo legend where the first woman meets the wolf-god Amarok.

Pick Me Up 2011-Jaguar Shoes
The JaguarShoes Collective is showing for the first time, with lots of work for sale from a wide variety of loosely associated artists. For Pick Me Up they have created a Campfire wall – featuring over sized marshmallows and flickering tissue flames.

Pick Me Up 2011-Nous Vous
Next door is the minimalist Nous Vous set up.

Pick Me Up 2011-Samuel EsquirePick Me Up 2011-Samuel Esquire
Puck Collective are hosting a busy room that resembles a working studio. I particularly liked the strong graphic work of Samuel Esquire.

Pick Me Up 2011-Evening TweedPick Me Up 2011-Evening Tweed
Evening Tweed‘s exhibition space looks like a trendy aspirational shop in Brick Lane, with artfully arranged mementos lined around the walls. I wish my studio space looked like this!

Pick Me Up 2011-Anthony Burrill
Anthony Burrill is hosting the big central space – he may be an interesting graphic artist but he’s no Rob Ryan when it come to production techniques: expect photocopied collage opportunities and DJ-ing.

Pick Me Up 2011-Anthony Burrill
Pick Me Up Anthony Burrill area.

Suddenly it was closing time so I missed the It’s Nice That section and what looked like an interesting 3D concept from Them Lot – make sure you drop in to be filmed as one of the characters in their cardboard city. Leaving, visitors pass through the Concrete Hermit bookstore, which is much better placed than it was last year. From tomorrow (a bit late in the day I will concede) the shop will stock copies of both my books. Make sure you take a moment to peruse through Amelia’s Anthology of Illustration and Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration – both of which are choc-a-bloc with *brand* new illustration talent.

Pick Me Up 2011-Nous Vous uke
Pick Me Up 2011-Nous Vous uke.

It’s exciting that an event like Pick Me Up exists, but disheartening that it isn’t more wide ranging and ambitious in the scope of its activities. What about the practical use of illustration and graphic art? Evening Tweed features some fabulous gilded Russian dolls, Nous Vous show a bespoke illustrated ukelele and the JaguarShoes Collective offers illustrated objects to buy, but there is very little consideration of how illustration can be applied to products within the exhibition as a whole or in the workshop schedule.

And what about the many different commercial aspects of working as an illustrator today? Where are the children’s book illustrators, the fashion illustrators, the illustrators who tackle sustainability within their work? Where is the discussion of the many many ways in which illustration is utilised within the online world, in animation and in editorial? Aspects of this will hopefully be brought up in workshops but I feel very strongly that there are only so many prints that people can buy for their walls, and an applied context is what differentiates illustration and graphic design from fine art so it really should be talked about in an exhibition such as this.

Pick Me Up 2011-Evening Tweed Russian Dolls
Evening Tweed Russian Dolls.

I also think it would be nice if different collectives and publishing houses were invited to take part in Pick Me Up every year, rather than many of the same ones returning again – I had a strong feeling of Deja Vu. And of course, lastly, I’d like to see more work from TRULY up and coming illustrators. There are so many very great ones out there….

You can read my full listing for Pick Me Up, including recommended events, right here. My review of last year’s Pick Me Up event can be read here. And in case you were wondering I feel it’s only right that I admit that I was actually asked to contribute this year. But we couldn’t agree on the best Amelia’s Magazine presence, which is a shame.

There’s always next year…

Just off Brick Lane, capsule past the curry houses and down a side street, here is where Hinshelwood de Borman have set up their newest pop-up shop. My only complaint after spending an hour leafing through the curiosities of ‘Field Work’ is that this isn’t a permanent shop – because it is absolutely lovely.

The selection by Caitlin de Hinshelwood and Rose de Borman offers steep competition when it comes to picking a favourite, more about but I think the printed textiles from Caitlin de Hinshelwood are the stars of the show. Stacks of cushions are adorned with animal prints – one with giraffes, lions and bears, the next with frogs and snakes, and so on. The patterns are repeated on post cards, purses and on dresses for sale at the back. Soft colours and gorgeous, subtle patterns make for unorthodox and brilliant little outfits – like the dress covered in prints of root vegetables.

Cushions by Caitlin de Hinshelwood

Kitty Farrow Press has created a special range of notebooks for Field Work, all marked with an antlers logo. Continuing the animal theme are spoons cut from antlers by Kirsten Hecktermann – if that sounds like too much the shop also has some carved wooden spoons on offer.

Other treats include some very cute medieval replica pewter brooches, papier-mâché masks, and lovely old-style screwdriver sets from Elementary Design. The taxidermy is the work of Jazmine Miles-Long, an ethical taxidermist who only uses animals that have died from natural causes. Shipping Forecast Knitwear has some fantastic wooly hats on display, made in the UK from Aran wool but bringing to mind windswept isles in Nordic waters.

Neal Jones

Down the stairs is the gallery, and the show is entitled ‘Weird Folk’ with art by Betsy Dadd, Neal Jones and Max Wade. The warm and playful paintings almost beg to be touched, especially the smeared brush-strokes and rough edges of some of the art – which makes me want to start painting again as the artists make it look like so much fun.

Betsy Dadd

Field Work runs between 15th and 20th March in Spitalfields, at 65 Hanbury Street, London E1 5JP. For more information see our listing. If you miss it there’s an online shop here.

Illustration by Natasha Thompson

This write has taken far, information pills far longer than it actually should have, buy more about which is no reflection on the beautiful collection I saw relatively on Wednesday morning several weeks ago. It’s completely down to inertia and mental blocks; utterly rubbish, but there you go. So whilst the womenswear editors and buyers had jetted off to Milan it was left to the rest of us and a Mr Hamish Bowles to enjoy the delights of J.W. Anderson‘s show. It is worth noting that by now the glamour of most fashion shows had dulled a little and I was fast developing the urge to move rows forward to the front. I was no longer just grateful to attend but damn it do they not know who I am? Obviously they did, or rather they knew who I wasn’t and quite rightly plonked me in the fourth row. I quickly moved forward. Shame and modesty is wasted at these shows.  


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

As the lights dimmed the sound of an arctic gale blew through the show space, as if we weren’t chilly enough, before giving way to Nordic house. It was a great soundtrack and set the tone for a multi layered collection that showcased great talent and eye across both formal and casual wear. The palette was primarily navy and charcoal brilliantly punctuated with paisley prints, whites, and olive greens.  


All photography by Matt Bramford

The fact I struggle to define which element of the collection was strongest tells of its strength. In a large collection it is often easy to pick and choose what you like, with only 28 looks each one needs to stand on its own but also within the line up. J.W. Anderson has definitely achieved this with this collection; be it the new and exciting knitwear, the floor length kilts, panelled overcoats or hooded tailoring.  


Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

The knitwear was fresh, jumpers with missing front panels,  Scandinavian-inspired detailing or webbed bands to hold in place. No longer just tied loosely round the waist the bands held the jumper tight in around the knee. Cardigans in a fine gauge knit or latex were layered over each other adding another exciting element.  

A strong trend at fashion week this year has been panelled trenchcoats, both amongst the fashion elite and on the runway, and this was picked up on the Anderson catwalk. Anderson took it a step further creating fantastic midnight blue standalone jackets with printed quilted hoods.  


Illustration by Natasha Thompson

Overall London menswear day is fast becoming a force to be reckoned with. No longer a nominal notion tacked on the end but championing both established and upcoming designers. It’s a shame it still clashes with Milan and as such most of the press have left already. But with British and Irish menswear being championed by the likes of Anderson we have much to look forward to.

See more from Aniela Murphy and Natasha Thompson in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Aniela Murphy, ,AW11, ,Cardigans, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hamish Bowles, ,illustration, ,J.W. Anderson, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Natasha Likes Tea, ,Natasha Thompson, ,Nick Bain, ,Nordic, ,Paisley, ,Scandinavian

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