Amelia’s Magazine | Mark Fast: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Anna Higgie

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Anna Higgie

As I squeezed myself onto the end of a bench, it was impossible to ignore that the hundreds of people inside the space were very, very excited. Besides the increasing numbers of editors, bloggers, and Mark Fast fans, a scrum of photographers were going a bit mad trying to get a picture of front-row attendees. Ten minutes later, after security forced them to disperse, it became clear what the fuss was all about. None other than Mr Kanye West was in the centre of the front row, engaged in conversation but stopping to pose for photographs like he was born doing it. As he is due to show his second collection at Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday the 6th of March, I couldn’t help but wonder if this was like revision for his big fashion exam.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou

This collection was called Questions in a World of Blue, inspired by a scene from the David Lynch film, Fire Walk with Me, promising to deliver ‘a collection of sophisticated grunge’. I still had Mark Fast’s current S/S 2012 collection in my head; sexy, light and inspired by a sand storm. I loved this interpretation of Mark Fast’s signature feminine silhouettes, the review of which can be read here. Mark Fast doing modern-day grunge sounded interesting.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

I think this theme turned out to be exactly where this brand needed to go next. Although beautiful, most of Mark Fast’s previous collections have been extremely body-con, and mostly consisting of dresses. This collection saw the knitwear designer take the casual, layered, easy-going elements of grunge and re-invent them as luxury pieces. Striped crop-tops, wool coats and long knitted skirts in a range of textures added accessible separates to the collection. Anyone would feel comfortable throwing on a luxurious but slouchy cardigan, and feel just as at ease in the more dramatic full-length gowns.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou

Mark Fast makes knitwear so exciting; all you’d want to wear with his pieces are a pair of heels. This designer is in the habit of using Christian Louboutin shoes for catwalk shows, making the ‘effortless and strong’ Mark Fast woman look complete. Hair was erratically plaited, mimicking the intertwined knitwear. Greys, deep blues, and pink-nudes set against black made up a simple colour palette that wouldn’t look out of place on any self-respecting grunger.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Gaarte

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

I really like what Mark Fast has come with for next season; but what I love even more is seeing him develop as a designer. He’s definitely gotten to a place where he doesn’t have to prove himself through show-stopping pieces that only work on the catwalk and celebrities. I found this collection his most complete in terms of a range of pieces, which no doubt will worn by many a lady come winter. Mark Fast only needs to change one thing for his next collection; get a bigger venue. He’s outgrowing the BFC Showspace.

Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou
Mark Fast A/W 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Anna Higgie, ,BFC Showspace, ,Christian Louboutin, ,Claire Kearns, ,David Lynch, ,Feminine, ,Fire Walk with Me, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Grey, ,grunge, ,Kanye West, ,knitwear, ,Layered, ,London Fashion Week A/W 2012, ,Make-up, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Paris Fashion Week, ,plaits, ,Questions in a World of Blue

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jacob Kimmie

Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska
Jacob Kimmie by Marta Spendowska.

I missed the Jacob Kimmie show last season but the fabulous cream and black elegance of his sophisticated collection for A/W 2010 is still etched into my mind.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW SS12 Jacob Kimmie by Kristina Vasiljeva
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Jacob Kimmie‘s new collection was called Rhapsody and featured a huge number of beautifully constructed garments in signature monochrome, seek but this time with variation in the form of a grey dove print that appeared on white and black grounds to equal effect. Flocks of doves spread across skirts or down tiered chiffon dresses. Taking a brave step away from monochrome Jacob Kimmie also showcased the dove print in coy red.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob-Kimmie-(SS-2012)-by-Barb-Royal
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Ah, clinic chiffon. There has been an awful lot of exposed nipple action this LFW and Jacob Kimmie‘s show was no exception. High necked Victorian school marm blouses with slouchy puff sleeves were given the sheer treatment – if only the women likely to afford these garments had such perky boobs. On other blouses bib like ruffles covered the bosom or a dapper rose appeared at the neck. Slim mesh panels up the sides and down the sleeves of long dresses were particularly clever. The contrast of sexiness and primness was emphasised with simple allusions to religion and virginity – a cross around the neck or a barely there netted cape.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

The show closed with an exposed bride, who sashayed down the catwalk under a diaphanous veil with an empty birdcage swinging at her side. The black models from the show posed in a row at the end of the catwalk as Jacob gave his final bow – as ever an incongruous figure, rotund and cheery in baseball cap, casual t-shirt and shorts – the antithesis of his designs.

Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris
Jacob Kimmie S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

Jacob Kimmie is fast building himself a strong brand that is an alluring combination of prim and sexy. Rhapsody S/S 2012 was a beautiful and wearable collection that should appeal to buyers in spades.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Birdcage, ,Bride, ,Chiffon, ,doves, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grey, ,Jacob Kimmie, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Mesh, ,monochrome, ,Nipples, ,Panels, ,print, ,Religious, ,Rhapsody, ,Ruffles, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sheer, ,Veil, ,Victorian

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Lako Bukia

Lako Bukia - London Fashion Week S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Being ushered past the growing queues for Lakio Bukia and presented with the offer to take a seat, approved I’m suddenly transported back to one of my very first catwalk shows and my very first front row experience at London Fashion Week earlier this year. Lako Bukia’s A/W 2011 collection captivated me with its rich use of colour, price flattering fabrics and innovative design and I had thoroughly enjoyed the show (read my review of the Lako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA collection) so I was excited to see the designer’s presentation of her S/S 2012 collection.

Crowd at Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Photography by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Hannah Hope

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Hannah Hope

I’ve read Lako Bukia’s S/S 2012 Preview Interview with Amelia’s Magazine, help so I have an inkling of what to expect, but that hasn’t diluted my interest at all; in fact I’m further intrigued, and eager for the show to commence. The auditorium is filling up rapidly and I observe the melting pot of characters gathered at the Fashion Scout venue. A group of splendidly preened and styled front-row fashionistas chat animatedly from across the room, willing for someone to take their picture. So I do, as one does.

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

The dimming of the lights signals the start of the show and the now crowded arena settles into silence inviting the first model to glide on to the runway. The Lako Bukia ethos promises to create beautiful clothing for all women and I champion Lako’s commitment to continue the upholding of that code. The unrestrictive blouses and sweeping skirts hold the potential to flatter all body shapes.

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Photography by Amelia Gregory

The contentious subject of the sexualisation of femininity is something Lako Bukia isn’t afraid to challenge and I love that about her. Lako attempts to change the attitudes of men and women alike, regarding the two seemingly inextricably entwined identities that are synonymous with figure-hugging and revealing clothing. With her designs, Lako Bukia effectively demonstrates that women can look and feel feminine and sexy in garments that do not simply focus on body shape. In Lako Bukia‘s interview with Amelia, she says ‘the women of the world have forgotten that there is something more exciting in the mystery of garments that do not stress ones body shape’ and I’m inclined to agree.

Lako-Bukia - LFW (SS-2012) by-Barb-Royal

Lako-Bukia - LFW SS-2012 by-Barb-Royal

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

For her spring/summer collection, Lako Bukia has chosen a palette of bold, contrasting colours that reflect her often, kaleidoscopic personality; black, red, white and shades of grey paint the pieces for this season’s crop. The black and white eye make-up adheres to the theme as do the neat and up-do hairstyles.

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Photography by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 LFW by Hannah Hope

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Hannah Hope

It’s the first time Lako Bukia is using print and her hand painted Asian inspired flowers and trees shroud the billowing chiffon and silk pieces. The Asian inspiration is further exposed in the mandarin collars adorning many of the blouses and dresses. My favourite detail is the neat row of tiny fabric covered buttons, reminiscent of the 1930s, placed on a variety of positions, most notably on the structured bodices and on the seams of the Jodhpur like trousers. The gathered waistline is also a trending theme in the collection.

Lako Bukia - London Fashion Week S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

The catwalk is performed in a unique fashion, which is fantastic for those sitting closer to the end of the runway, but as I’m not, getting a decent photo is a lot to ask for. I do hope the choreography for next year’s shows revert back to a simpler style (or I learn to position myself more strategically).

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Photography by Amelia Gregory

The talented designer has decidedly stated that her new collection will be one that is wearable and saleable and with the beautiful garments swishing past me on the catwalk, I undoubtedly recognise this to be true. The commercial element of fashion has obviously penetrated the creative process, but Lako Bukia’s unique branding has not been diminished. However, I do hope too see a spark of the former eccentricity of the brand in future designs.

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Photography by Akeela Bhattay

As the show comes to an end the sweet Georgian designer takes to the catwalk, to be applauded enthusiastically by her audience.

Watch the show here.

Lako Bukia SS12 Full Show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Article, ,Asian, ,Barb Royal, ,black, ,Blog Post, ,Central Saint Martins, ,CHOXA, ,Dramatic, ,Fashion Scout, ,Felicities PR, ,Femininity, ,Flowers, ,georgia, ,Grey, ,Hand Painted, ,Hannah Hope, ,Images, ,japanese, ,Joana Faria, ,lako bukia, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Photos, ,print, ,Red, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,sexuality, ,Silk, ,trees, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,White

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Lako Bukia

Lako Bukia - London Fashion Week S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Being ushered past the growing queues for Lakio Bukia and presented with the offer to take a seat, approved I’m suddenly transported back to one of my very first catwalk shows and my very first front row experience at London Fashion Week earlier this year. Lako Bukia’s A/W 2011 collection captivated me with its rich use of colour, price flattering fabrics and innovative design and I had thoroughly enjoyed the show (read my review of the Lako Bukia A/W 2011 CHOXA collection) so I was excited to see the designer’s presentation of her S/S 2012 collection.

Crowd at Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Photography by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Hannah Hope

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Hannah Hope

I’ve read Lako Bukia’s S/S 2012 Preview Interview with Amelia’s Magazine, help so I have an inkling of what to expect, but that hasn’t diluted my interest at all; in fact I’m further intrigued, and eager for the show to commence. The auditorium is filling up rapidly and I observe the melting pot of characters gathered at the Fashion Scout venue. A group of splendidly preened and styled front-row fashionistas chat animatedly from across the room, willing for someone to take their picture. So I do, as one does.

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

The dimming of the lights signals the start of the show and the now crowded arena settles into silence inviting the first model to glide on to the runway. The Lako Bukia ethos promises to create beautiful clothing for all women and I champion Lako’s commitment to continue the upholding of that code. The unrestrictive blouses and sweeping skirts hold the potential to flatter all body shapes.

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Photography by Amelia Gregory

The contentious subject of the sexualisation of femininity is something Lako Bukia isn’t afraid to challenge and I love that about her. Lako attempts to change the attitudes of men and women alike, regarding the two seemingly inextricably entwined identities that are synonymous with figure-hugging and revealing clothing. With her designs, Lako Bukia effectively demonstrates that women can look and feel feminine and sexy in garments that do not simply focus on body shape. In Lako Bukia‘s interview with Amelia, she says ‘the women of the world have forgotten that there is something more exciting in the mystery of garments that do not stress ones body shape’ and I’m inclined to agree.

Lako-Bukia - LFW (SS-2012) by-Barb-Royal

Lako-Bukia - LFW SS-2012 by-Barb-Royal

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

For her spring/summer collection, Lako Bukia has chosen a palette of bold, contrasting colours that reflect her often, kaleidoscopic personality; black, red, white and shades of grey paint the pieces for this season’s crop. The black and white eye make-up adheres to the theme as do the neat and up-do hairstyles.

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Photography by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 LFW by Hannah Hope

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Hannah Hope

It’s the first time Lako Bukia is using print and her hand painted Asian inspired flowers and trees shroud the billowing chiffon and silk pieces. The Asian inspiration is further exposed in the mandarin collars adorning many of the blouses and dresses. My favourite detail is the neat row of tiny fabric covered buttons, reminiscent of the 1930s, placed on a variety of positions, most notably on the structured bodices and on the seams of the Jodhpur like trousers. The gathered waistline is also a trending theme in the collection.

Lako Bukia - London Fashion Week S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Lako Bukia S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

The catwalk is performed in a unique fashion, which is fantastic for those sitting closer to the end of the runway, but as I’m not, getting a decent photo is a lot to ask for. I do hope the choreography for next year’s shows revert back to a simpler style (or I learn to position myself more strategically).

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Lako Bukia SS 2012 London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

Photography by Amelia Gregory

The talented designer has decidedly stated that her new collection will be one that is wearable and saleable and with the beautiful garments swishing past me on the catwalk, I undoubtedly recognise this to be true. The commercial element of fashion has obviously penetrated the creative process, but Lako Bukia’s unique branding has not been diminished. However, I do hope too see a spark of the former eccentricity of the brand in future designs.

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Lako Bukia - S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Photography by Akeela Bhattay

As the show comes to an end the sweet Georgian designer takes to the catwalk, to be applauded enthusiastically by her audience.

Watch the show here.

Lako Bukia SS12 Full Show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Article, ,Asian, ,Barb Royal, ,black, ,Blog Post, ,Central Saint Martins, ,CHOXA, ,Dramatic, ,Fashion Scout, ,Felicities PR, ,Femininity, ,Flowers, ,georgia, ,Grey, ,Hand Painted, ,Hannah Hope, ,Images, ,japanese, ,Joana Faria, ,lako bukia, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Photos, ,print, ,Red, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,sexuality, ,Silk, ,trees, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,White

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Georgia Hardinge

Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 by Jane Young
Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012 by Jane Young.

Former One to Watch and Merit Award winner Georgia Hardinge presented her S/S 2012 to an eager audience at Fashion Scout. Cubed was ‘inspired by the dark nature of cubo-futurism‘ – obvious in the multi-layered geometric lines that followed the contours of the female models on sheer blouses, this tight bodycon dresses and swirling capes.

Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012 by Celine Choo
Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012 by Celine Choo.

A predominant colour palette of soft grey was broken with luscious tangerine orange, recipe summery yellow and stark white. With Georgia Hardinge the question has always been how to combine her more avante garde sculptural creations with commercial wearability and if Cubed was anything to go by she has figured this out with the utmost panache: a conversation with an eager buyer confirmed my feelings that this was her most saleable collection yet, especially now that Mary Katrantzou has paved the way for a new generation of extravagantly shaped garments. Even boxy mini skirts with sharpened edges and fold down details on chests were eminently wearable without losing anything of the signature Georgia Hardinge aesthetic.

Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
georgia_hardinge_by_ada_jusic
Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012 by Ada Jusic.

Digital printing has allowed for a revolution in textile design that simply wasn’t possible when I was studying the old methods of screenprinting at university in the 90s. I can’t deny that I sometimes miss the limitations that screenprinting enforced on design but when digital printing is done well the results are wholly unique, as in Georgia Hardinge‘s stunning new collection. In Cubed the complexity and cleverness of Georgia’s print techniques reached its apotheosis in the last dress to float away in a cloud of cubist wonder. A beautiful collection.

Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ada Jusic, ,bodycon, ,Capes, ,Celine Choo, ,Cubism, ,Cubo-Futurism, ,Digital Printing, ,Fashion Scout, ,Futurism, ,geometric, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Grey, ,Jane Young, ,London Kills Me, ,Merit Award, ,Ones To Watch, ,Orange, ,screenprinting, ,Sculptural, ,Sheer

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: MMC Studio Design

MMC Studio Design S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris
MMC Studio Design S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

MMC Studio Design closed Friday night at Fashion Week Poland with a dramatic catwalk show. Things kicked off with a stage hand struggling gleefully down the stage as she held aloft a large amount of helium balloons. As the lights went up she released them towards the ceiling as fake snow began to fall. Except this being a spring/summer show I guess it was supposed to be more like confetti.

MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Out stepped the models in a selection of relaxed white separates paired with heavy white eyelids that blinked again the snowy onslaught. Legs were daubed with lines in place of old fashioned stockings and their feet were clad in white Dr. Martens. For variety there were a few grey garments and the odd bit of swishy transparent chiffon. As the lighting was lowered to ever more dramatic levels the snow – sorry, confetti – continued to fall. The final pieces really maxed up the sportsluxe look with deep crusts of sequins arranged in snowy camouflage patterns. A collection fit for an ice queen, sorry, summer princess. You can read my review of MMC Studio Design‘s A/W 2011 collection here.

MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
YouTube Preview Image
Watch the finale here.

At the end everyone had fun playing with the thick piles of white tissue paper that had descended onto the catwalk.

MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
MMC Studio Design Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Systeme D and Jemima Daisy play in the *snow*

Categories ,Confetti, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Grey, ,Jemima Daisy, ,Lodz, ,MMC Studio Design, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Sequins, ,Snow, ,sportsluxe, ,Systeme D

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2011 Gala Awards Show: Womenswear Knitwear and Tailoring

GFW Charlotte Waters by Claire Kearns
Charlotte Waters by Claire Kearns.

Now for the real meat of the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Awards show… the womenswear on show. Here are those designers who concentrated on tailoring, more about textures and knitwear.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011
Charlotte Waters of Salford showed a dark and moody collection with plenty of texture and knit. Intelligent Evolution was inspired by obsolete technology such as cassettes. Grunge with a modern twist – loved the over sized fibrous shoes.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011
Cindy M Warsono by Hayley Warnham
Cindy M Warsono by Hayley Warnham.

I wasn’t massively keen on La Salle College of the Arts Singapore graduate Cindy M Warsono‘s collection of bulky cream hoodies and tight trousers.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011
Jaskiran Hare of Kingston University showed a monochrome collection based on traditional tailoring turned inside out and back to front.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011
Jungo Kuroiwa of UCA Epsom favoured a very black approach as well: layered tailoring and lace all mixed up together to create interest.

GFW-Rory-Longdon_by_AlisonDay
Rory Longdon by Alison Day.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011
Rory Longdon went for subdued black and silver in his knitwear collection – but even a colour lover like me could admire these beautifully constructed garments – up close they were just amazing. Not for nothing did he win the overall Gala Award. He goes on to study an MA in Fashion Womenswear at the RCA this September.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011
Lyudmila Lane of UCA Rochester stuck to lighter greys and orange in pleated shapes for Endless Sequence, medications inspired by the sculptures of Peter Jansen. The garments didn’t always work – I was much more interested in her intriguing shoes.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011
Rachel Cogley from University of Birmingham must surely have been inspired by Charlie Le Mindu – her fun collection borrowed heavily from his avante garde design aesthetic. Nonetheless I enjoyed her crazy big shouldered plaited hair coats and the poodle bag which matched both wig and coat.

naomi-law-gfw-gala-ume-sacraine
naomi-law-gfw-gala-ume-sacraine
Ume Sacraine by Naomi Law.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011
It was back to black for Ume Sacraine of De Montford University… who started with a panelled mini dress before moving on to a whole range of intriguing fringed, embossed and gnarled textures in a sombre palette.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Won Jee Chung 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Won Jee Chung 2011
Finally, Won Jee Chung showed more monochrome, this time intarsia knit and a strangely unflattering bulky hooded top with sheer palazzo pants.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Charlotte Waters, ,Cindy M Warsono, ,Claire Kearns, ,De Montford University, ,Endless Sequence, ,GFW, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Grey, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Intelligent Evolution, ,Jaskiran Hare, ,Jungo Kuroiwa, ,Kingston University, ,knitwear, ,La Salle College of the Arts, ,Lyudmila Lane, ,monochrome, ,Naomi Law, ,Peter Jansen, ,Rachel Cogley, ,Rory Longdon, ,Singapore, ,tailoring, ,Textures, ,UCA Epsom, ,UCA Rochester, ,Ume Sacraine, ,University of Birmingham, ,Womenswear, ,Won Jee Chung

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Nenukko

Nenukko-Lodz-by-Victoria-Haynes
Nenukko A/W 2011 by Victoria Haynes.

Darkness Requires White Spots was the enigmatic name for a by turns commercial and fun collection from Nenukko, ambulance which was opened by a very small person in Japanese wooden flip flops which did barely anything to raise her height to anything approaching catwalk level.

Nenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia Gregory

There was plenty of capacious hoods, visit this site nappy trousers and panda prints on leggings but I wasn’t so convinced by some of the oversized garments. More mussy hair with plaits in long hair for women, and an oversized tweed print. Crimped hair for men, grey hair and more grey jersey. Yet again it was all about the red, grey, white, black… I don’t really understand the obsession with this narrow colour range, but maybe it’s what the Polish fashion market loves? The models returned for a final stroll barefoot… aside from the little one.

Nenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia Gregory
Nenukko A/W 2011. All photography Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,black, ,Darkness Requires White Spots, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Geta, ,Grey, ,japanese, ,jersey, ,Lodz, ,Nenukko, ,Panda, ,Red, ,Victoria Haynes, ,White

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Paprocki and Brzozowski

Gemma Milly-Paprocki Brzozowski ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011
Paprocki Brzozowski A/W 2011 by Gemma Milly.

Paprocki and Brzozowski are the golden boys of Polish fashion who have previously won the coveted Golden Thread Awards, viagra sale and so they were given the pole position as last show on Saturday night. The venue was packed to the rafters and there were even some goodie bags on the front row seats, viagra dosage but any excitement soon died down on discovery of the contents: a fashion magazine (that I already had) and a brochure.

Paprocki Brzozowski ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011- photography by Amelia Gregory
The designers: Paprocki and Brzozowski.

The show began with a cool mini movie of flapping doves, with the wing beats easily mutating into the already familiar melange of church bells, violins and heartbeats… which gradually turned into thumping techno. The models sported metal neck collars and cuffs, garish blood red and black fake tattoos wriggling up their arms – the only edgy part of an otherwise safe collection of black, grey and pewter metallic tailoring and ruffles. Hair was long and crimped, fuzzed out around the face. There were boxy cuts, cascading layers, sequins, lace, and splotchy ink prints. If I’m honest I struggled to see the connection between shapes. And someone please tell me, what is up with Poland’s love of grey?

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Paprocki & Brzozowski A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Church Bells, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,doves, ,Expo, ,Gemma Milly, ,Golden Thread Awards, ,Goodie Bag, ,Grey, ,Heartbeats, ,jersey, ,Lodz, ,Paprocki & Brzozowski, ,Paprocki and Brzozowski, ,poland, ,tailoring, ,Tattoos, ,Techno, ,Violins

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Bohoboco

Bohoboca by Casey Otremba
Bohoboco by Casey Otremba.

Bohoboco featured lots of grey and black yet again. And shades of cream and buttermilk – all very tasteful. There was plenty of draped jersey (again), page cowl necks, back to front collars and maxi dresses in chiffon, the girls swishing their skirts out dramatically. The girls wore spider earring cuffs, and for once the hair was styled up into sideswept ponytails. There were some clever touches and it was all very wearable.

BohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryBohoBoco ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
BohoBoco A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Bohoboco, ,Casey Otremba, ,commercial, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fur, ,Grey, ,Lodz

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