Amelia’s Magazine | The Golden Thread Awards at Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011: lovers of Raggedy Grunge

Agnieszka Kowalska by Victoria Haynes
Agnieszka Kowalska by Victoria Haynes.

I have learnt that grungey raggedy looks are a great favourite of Polish fashion designers. And so is grey. How they love their greys! No surprise then that this round up includes both of The Golden Thread winners.

Sabina Koryl
Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Sabina Koryl Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Sabina Koryl showed a 90s influenced grunge collection of deconstructed leather and rubberised garments in dark shades, more about accessorised with dangling reflectors and round sunglasses.

Dominka Naziebly
Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Dominika Naziebly Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Dominka Naziebly was all about the distressed denim, mangled knitwear dangling in swishing loops and my favourite piece: a fun squished fabric layered red dress that called to mind the work of Georgia Hardinge. I think the garments might have been made from recycled fabrics, for which she gets massive brownie points.

Gareth A Hopkins Monika Jaworska Golden Thread
Monika Jaworska by Gareth A Hopkins.

Monika Jaworska
Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011Monika Jaworska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011
Monika Jaworska showed a military meets peasant collection with lots of highly wearable frayed louche shapes in beiges and neutrals; a clear commercial favourite that would easily translate into production. She won the Pret a Porter Golden Thread category.

Agnieszka Kowalska
Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 WinnerAgnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
Agnieszka Kowalska presented one of my favourite Golden Thread collections: flamboyant tea stained flounces layered in tattered circus style sent down the catwalk to a soundtrack of traditional hornpipes. Tights and socks were holey and muddy, exposing bony knees, and in the case of one particular man, way too much.

Agnieszka Kowalska Golden Thread Fashion Week Poland AW 2011 Winner
It was all going so incredibly well until he stepped out on the catwalk. No no no, man with chunky thighs in tights not good. Not for Fall/Winter, not ever. Despite this glaring faux pas Agnieszka Kowalska was a worthy winner of the Premiere Vision category.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Agnieszka Kowalska, ,Dominka Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,grunge, ,Lodz, ,Modus Vivendi, ,Monika Jaworska, ,poland, ,Premiere Vision, ,Pret-a-porter, ,Raggedy Grunge, ,recycled, ,Sabina Koryl, ,Szałapot, ,The Golden Thread, ,Victoria Haynes, ,Winner

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Amelia’s Magazine | Georgia Hardinge: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Rebecca Strickson
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

Former Merit Award winner Georgia Hardinge returned to the catwalks once more this season, a now familiar and much anticipated designer on the Fashion Scout catwalk. Inverted was inspired by the work of the iconic inside out artist Rachel Whiteread and confirmed the Centre for Fashion Enterprise mentored designer’s very individual talent.

Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Using magnified and manipulated images taken from Whiteread‘s infamous resin casts Georgia‘s signature prints showcased her typically abstract geometric aesthetic, this time in shades of tigerish orange and blacks, or cream and deep burgundy.

Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Ellen Li
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Ellen Li.

The show opened with a jaunty trouser, blouse and hat combo: navy panels creating a sleek silhouette that was echoed in a standout mustard yellow jacket with squared pocket panels and hidden buttons. This was worn with a pair of oatmeal knitted shorts – part of Georgia Hardinge‘s first foray into knitwear. Other garments included a long loose cardigan and a cropped cowl neck jumper, both with obvious commercial appeal. These were paired with her bold prints, cleverly marrying the saleable with the showpiece to create a highly desirable style.

Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong.

A series of incredibly slender maxi dresses would be suitable for only the skinniest of ladies, but I adored the subtle A-line detailing and layering of sheer fabrics and Melton wool. The show culminated in Georgia‘s finest showpiece, a swooping burgundy and cream patterned dress topped with a layered and squared buttress: the perfect epitome of lady-like power.

Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Georgia Hardinge AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Victoria Haynes
Georgia Hardinge A/W 2012 by Victoria Haynes.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Burgundy, ,Centre for Fashion Enterprise, ,Ellen Li, ,Fashion Scout, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Inverted, ,Janneke de Jong, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,Melton Wool, ,Merit Award, ,Rachel Whiteread, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Sheer, ,Victoria Haynes

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Amelia’s Magazine | Hellen Van Rees: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Preview Interview

Hellen Van Rees
Helen Van Rees A/W 2013 by Claire Kearns

Up-and-coming Dutch fashion and textile designer Hellen van Rees is presenting her independent collection SQUARE3 ANGLE: THE TRANSFORMATION at London Fashion Week A/W 2013 this weekend. Hellen graduated from the MA in Fashion at Central Saint Martins’ back in February 2012 and then packed her suitcase and moved to the Netherlands to start her own fashion label. Her first collection at LFW was pegged as a ‘One to Watch’ by Fashion Scout and Lady Gaga has since been spotted donning her clobber. She’s known for her hand-made tweed fabrics which are created using factory remnants and recycled threads, and her work has 3-dimensional, sculpture-like elements, as well as a futuristic feel. Complete with a brand-spanking new video to promote her new Chanel-inspired collection, it’s likely that her pieces will receive a lot of interest in the coming weeks.

London Fashion Week
Helen Van Rees A/W 2013 by RoshniBA

Hellen Van Rees is still exploring the ideas from her graduate collection which she developed on in her last show Square2: Exploring Excitement. Although you might expect a sprinkling of déjà vu, this collection puts a tangy new twist on her hallmark tweeds. I spoke to Hellen about her shiny new collection and her plans for the future in advance of her (second) London Fashion Week show.


Video collaboration between Hellen van Rees and Evelien Gerrits of EveMedia

What can we expect from your upcoming collection at LFW A/W’13?
Lots of tweed and colours, contrasting black & white rubber and beautiful quality wool and silk; all arty but wearable.

You released a promo video for your show, how did this project come about?
I was trying to think of a way, other than a catwalk show, to present the new collection; to show the collection moving and in a nice atmosphere so the complete image comes across, as well as the details. This seemed like an exciting way to achieve that.

London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week

Hellen Van Rees

London Fashion Week

Photography by Kim Buckard

You started your own label in February 2012, what are your greatest achievements of the last year?
The fact that I was able to show my very first independent collection during London and Paris fashion week; and that I am able to do so again.

Do you have a favourite piece in this show?
I like the pieces with the new multi-coloured tweed a lot: the long dress with shiny black sleeves especially. It’s got strange contrasts but is also very elegant and wearable as well.

Do you wear your own pieces?
Not when I work (because it can get messy!) but for presentations, interviews and special occasions, yes.

Hellen Van Rees
Helen Van Rees A/W 2013 by Victoria Haynes

You’re also exhibiting at Paris Fashion Week; do you think the reactions to your show will differ between London and Paris?
I think it will because it attracts a different crowd. London has lots of bloggers and people who are generally interested in fashion that want to absorb new things, so it’s a very excitable crowd. Paris is more serious business, people there are generally looking for something more specific.

You studied the MA in Fashion at Central Saint Martins; did this prepare you for setting up your own label?
CSM was very good for me, to bring out my strong points and help me develop a clear direction within my designs. It doesn’t really prepare you for the whole business side of how it works, for example, how to sell your clothes, but I’m finding out along the way, which is fine.

Hellen Van Reees

London Fashion Week

Hellen Van Rees

Photography by Kim Buckard

You were chosen to be part of Ones to Watch as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s prestigious platform for new design talent; do you think this has helped you?
Yes it has! It has made it possible for me to show my work in a professional way to large number of professionals and I’ve been supported with advice as well. They’ve done all this again for this season, which is great!

Hellen van Rees LFW
Helen Van Rees A/W 2013 by Maya Beus

You’re known for your use of tweed and sustainable materials: is this something you’ve always been interested in?
Sustainability is very important to me because I think it makes sense. I make high-end handmade garments; it makes sense that not only the outside is nice looking, but also that the story behind it is strong. The tweed and the weaving method is something I developed about a year and a half ago, but I keep getting new ideas for it so I’ll keep going with it for a while.

3D shapes are a big part of your work, where do you get your inspiration?
Contemporary art installations mostly, like the cube installations by Rachel Whiteread.

London Fashion Week
Helen Van Rees A/W 2013 by BlackEyed Jack

What is the process behind each of your collections?
I continue with the previous collection, reinterpret it, change colours, look at art and pictures, make fabrics and then make garments. I don’t really sketch; I just start making one thing and from it comes another new idea. Halfway through I do a fitting see what I have and what’s missing. I make more, and in the end there’s suddenly a collection

LFW aside, is there anything else in the year ahead that you’re really looking forward to?
Yes! I’m doing a TED talk in March at TEDx Zwolle.

London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week

Hellen Van Rees

Hellen Van Rees’ collection can be seen in the Fashion Scout London & Paris Showroom. London 15.02 -19.02 & Freemasons Hall, 60 Great Queen Street. Paris 28.02 – 05.03, 23 Rue du Roi de Sicile, Paris. You can buy her pieces at her store here

Categories ,3D, ,A/W’13, ,BlackEyed Jack, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Claire Kearns, ,collection, ,CSM, ,designer, ,Eve Media, ,Futuristic, ,Hellen van Rees, ,interview, ,Jessica Cook, ,Kim Buckard, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maya Beus, ,Ones To Watch, ,OwlandAccordion, ,Paris Fashion Week, ,recycled, ,RoshniBA, ,sculpture, ,Square2: Exploring Excitement, ,SQUARE3 ANGLE: THE TRANSFORMATION, ,sustainable, ,TED, ,Tweed, ,University of Arts London, ,vauxhall, ,Victoria Haynes

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review, the winners

Flaminia Saccucci by Laura Warecki
Flaminia Saccucci by Laura Warecki.

Central Saint Martins showed for the last time at York Hall on Tuesday 31st May. I sat next to someone from L’Oreal – the principle course sponsors who fund the yearly awards show. There’s no wonder that Central Saint Martins fashion students are able to put on a professional standard graduate show, case what with the huge amount of monetary help that the course attracts. But there’s a reason why Central Saint Martins attracts the cash – the standard of design on show for 2011 was unremittingly high and in the next few blog posts I’ll pick out my favourites from an extremely talented bunch. First up, malady though – the winners.

Momo Wang by Karolina Burdon
Momo Wang by Karolina Burdon.

Momo Wang was the very deserving joint second runner up in an awards ceremony presented by Hilary Alexander and delivered by Meadham Kirchhoff and Sarah Burton. Or as Hilary put it: “You know Sarah; wedding dress, Pippa Middleton’s bum, need I say more?

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Momo Wang. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Her playful print presentation featured smiling girls with pigtails and balloons, bubble machines, dragon headgear and a mish mash of tribal influences thrown together in a unique and inspiring way. Super talented and with a refreshing take on the typical catwalk show.

Ivan Curia Nunes by Gareth A Hopkins
Ivan Curia Nunes by Gareth A Hopkins.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ivan Curia Nunes. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Ivan Curia Nunes.

Ivan Curia Nunes also came joint second, with his stylish sandy menswear, definitely one of the most instantly wearable collections on the catwalk.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia GregoryNicholas-Aburn-by-Victoria-Haynes
Nicholas Aburn by Victoria Haynes.

I hadn’t been so impressed with the cutting in Nicholas Aburn‘s collection, but maybe the first runner up was just unlucky enough to have been lumbered with the most gargantuan models in the show.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Nicholas Aburn. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Nicholas Aburn.

He completely won me over by the time he had walked to the end of the catwalk, smiling like a little imp as the models towered over him in their 80s influenced tailored striping and printed outfits, topped off with some eye-catching wide rimmed hats.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryFlaminia-Saccucci-by-Rebecca-Elves
Flaminia Saccucci by Rebecca Elves.

First prize went to Flaminia Saccucci, who showed an extremely confident and unusual latex printed floral collection in shades of pink, green and yellow featuring tyre printed legs that continued racing over waistlines and across bosoms.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Flaminia Saccucci. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Flaminia Saccucci.

Sadly none of these students appears to have a website. Since this is a gripe that I fear I may have to repeat far too often over the next few weeks I’ll say it just this once during my reports from the Central Saint Martins show. Pffffff.

My next blog will be online soon because there was plenty more to get excited about from 40 graduating students.

Categories ,80s, ,Awards, ,Central Saint Martins, ,CSM, ,Flaminia Saccucci, ,florals, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,Graduate Shows, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Ivan Curia Nunes, ,Karolina Burdon, ,L’Oreal, ,Laura Warecki, ,Meadham Kirchhoff, ,Meadham Kirchoff, ,menswear, ,Momo Wang, ,Pippa Middleton, ,print, ,Rebecca Elves, ,Sarah Burton, ,Tribal, ,Victoria Haynes, ,York Hall

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear tailoring.

Tracey Wong  CSM by Laura Frame
Tracey Wong by Laura Frame.

Womenswear tailoring at Central Saint Martins centred around a classical monochrome base exemplified by James Nolan, malady who opened the whole show with a high collared nanny wielding a giant old fashioned pram. Models with pin rolled hair were lent a strict air with shiny tight leather gloves.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-James Nolan photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-James Nolan photography by Amelia Gregory
James Nolan. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Mathilde le Gagneur showed a floaty commercial collection of tie-waisted garments to traditional church music. I liked the twirly number at the end.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia Gregory
Mathilde le Gagneur.

Li Wai Yin was all about the block coloured tailoring. Pointy hats and overlong sleeves emphasised the strong minimalist shapes.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Li Wai Yin photography by Amelia Gregory
Li Wai Yin.

Khrystyna Fomenko presented a strong and highly wearable collection based on golden and pastel shades with wide palazzo trousers and multi height hem lines. We did an interview with Khrystyna Fomenko back in 2009 – why not take a gander and see just how much her style has changed since then!

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia Gregory
Khrystyna Fomenko.

Hannah Barr showed flouncy pleated and backless numbers in lacy blues and coppery knits.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia Gregory
Hannah Barr.

Tracey Wong incorporated jutting beaded ornamental panels onto pastel and black dresses of intriguing proportions.

Tracey Wong by Laura Frame
Tracey Wong by Laura Frame.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia Gregory
Tracey Wong.

Christopher Tai’s collection was a bizarre ensemble of loose fitting pieces and unflattering wired accessories that curled up the arm.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Christopher Tai photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Christopher Tai photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Tai.

Satoshi Kuwata did ruched and draped pastels with interesting hem lines and button detailing. A very strong collection.

Satoshi Kuwata by Casey Otremba
Satoshi Kuwata by Casey Otremba.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Satoshi Kuwata photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Satoshi Kuwata photography by Amelia Gregory
Satoshi Kuwata. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Casey Otremba, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Christopher Tai, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hannah Barr, ,James Nolan, ,Khrystyna Fomenko, ,Laura Frame, ,Li Wai Yin, ,Mathilde le Gagneur, ,Satoshi Kuwata, ,tailoring, ,Tracey Wong, ,Womenswear, ,York Hall

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Nenukko

Nenukko-Lodz-by-Victoria-Haynes
Nenukko A/W 2011 by Victoria Haynes.

Darkness Requires White Spots was the enigmatic name for a by turns commercial and fun collection from Nenukko, ambulance which was opened by a very small person in Japanese wooden flip flops which did barely anything to raise her height to anything approaching catwalk level.

Nenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia Gregory

There was plenty of capacious hoods, visit this site nappy trousers and panda prints on leggings but I wasn’t so convinced by some of the oversized garments. More mussy hair with plaits in long hair for women, and an oversized tweed print. Crimped hair for men, grey hair and more grey jersey. Yet again it was all about the red, grey, white, black… I don’t really understand the obsession with this narrow colour range, but maybe it’s what the Polish fashion market loves? The models returned for a final stroll barefoot… aside from the little one.

Nenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia GregoryNenukko ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography Amelia Gregory
Nenukko A/W 2011. All photography Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,black, ,Darkness Requires White Spots, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Geta, ,Grey, ,japanese, ,jersey, ,Lodz, ,Nenukko, ,Panda, ,Red, ,Victoria Haynes, ,White

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Konrad Parol

Konrad-Parol-by-Victoria-Haynes
Konrad Parol A/W 2011 by Victoria Haynes.

Konrad Parol had a slot upstairs in the beautiful old power plant hall, side effects with colourful vaulted windows more suited to a church than an industrial plant. This was an edgy Parisian/Belgium look that featured lots of black – it clearly has commercial potential. In the UK Konrad Parol is in fact stocked by Not Just a Label. To the sounds of an industrial gothic medieval soundtrack boys emerged two at a time with slicked back hair and pale skin. There was some clever touches – orange highlights and flashes of tartan underlining on a girl’s cape and on the back of a boy’s jacket, symptoms DMs with bristle tops. The laced top for a boy was a bit questionable but there were some interesting corsetry features on a mini cape for girls. A crusader-esque face covering capelet ended the show on a surreal note.

Konrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryKonrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Konrad Parol A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Bielnik and Elektrownia, ,black, ,corsetry, ,DMs, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,gothic, ,Industrial, ,Konrad Parol, ,Lodz, ,medieval, ,Not Just a Label, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Parisian, ,Podsiadło Ksiezy Mlyn, ,Tartan, ,Victoria Haynes

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Marcin Podsiadło

Marcin-Podsiadlo-by-Victoria-Haynes
Marcin Podsiad?o by Victoria Haynes.

One feature of the Off Out Of Schedule shows at Fashion Week Poland was that no one checked tickets on the door and there was no one to usher in guests, what is ed meaning that seating was a free for all. I was a little late getting to this show as I’d been upstairs to check out the fashion photography exhibition (more on that later as I discovered some very good stuff) so I had to stand in a poor position, a bit exasperating when you’ve come all the way from London and it turns out that a good position is critical to capture the collection adequately. Marcin Podsiad?o showed black fabric geometric headpieces that completely dominated the all black outfits, meaning that in fact I couldn’t really tell you much about them. Far more successful, as styling goes, were the black blocked lips.

Marcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory

I am sure there were some lovely and very wearable shapes in this show, but in general I always struggle with all black collections, especially when they are shown in such low lighting levels that it’s nearly impossible to make out any detail. I was most interested to discover that Marcin Podsiad?o studied at the University of the Creative Arts and I think he’s actually based in the UK. I wonder if he was roaming the corridors when I taught there?

Marcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia GregoryMarcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory
Marcin Podsiad?o A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,black, ,geometric, ,headpieces, ,Marcin Podsiadło, ,Not Just a Label, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,UCA, ,University of the Creative Arts, ,Victoria Haynes

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Jewellery Designer Rosita Bonita

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<strong><a target=Rowenna Harrison portrait by Laura Gill

Working under the name Rosita Bonita, Camberwell illustration graduate Rowenna Harrison makes beautiful jewellery that would be at home in any trinket lovers dressing-up box. Her pieces celebrate all things vintage glamour and have a whole host of other influences from the mythical to the historical. We’ve mentioned Rosita Bonita before as Amelia stumbled across her work at Wilderness Festival 2011 and her stuff is still just as inspiring.

Rosita Bonita

Her pieces are gaining a following and she has recently been shortlisted to win a stand at Treasure Jewellery Show by Professional Jeweller Magazine (you can vote for her here). She’s a busy girl and a few days ago had a stall at the Secret Emporium Pop Up Shop in Boxpark, Shoreditch where she launched her latest collection Siren ’13.

Rosita Bonita by Louise Smith
Rosita Bonita by Gareth A Hopkins Top illustration of Rosita Bonita jewellery by Louise Smith, bottom illustration by Gareth A Hopkins.

More than just pretty pieces, her hand-crafted beauties are keep-sakes rather than regular old fashion knickknacks. I especially love the heart necklaces from her Sweet Black Heart collection, but all of her pieces are real treasures and her latest collection is sure to bring out your inner ’30s pin-up gal as well as rekindling your (my) childhood dreams of one day becoming Ariel the little mermaid. Siren is a collection of necklaces, earrings and more, which explore the sea-side feel from era’s past, as well as hinting at more magical influences. Looking at these treasures, I can’t help but think of the tongue twister we would recite on the playground: “she sells sea shells on the sea shore,” and be reminded of the feel of sand between my wiggling toes on British summer beach vacations.

I spoke to the lovely Ro Harrison, the face behind Rosita Bonita, about the launch of her new collection, her plans for the future and why she switched from illustration to jewellery design.

Rosita Bonita Siren Collection
Rosita Bonita Siren CollectionRosita Bonita Siren Collection Rosita Bonita Siren Collection

How did you decide on the name Rosita Bonita?
The first product I made to sell commercially was pasties (nipple tassels). This came about after making a pair for a friend to replace ones she’d lost at a fancy dress party, then making a few more as birthday presents. They quickly evolved into brooch versions, for those (like me) that don’t tend to have the occasion to wear the originals! I’ve always hated selling my work, so I wanted to create a brand name to create a degree of separation; to make it easier for me to go out and find shops to sell to. I starting experimenting with variations of my name and Rosita Bonita just kind of popped out. I had a vision of her being a ’50s Mexican burlesque dancer, it just felt right!

Rosita Bonita by Victoria Haynes

Illustration of Rosita Bonita jewellery by Victoria Haynes.

What made you choose to take the jump from illustration to jewellery design?
For as long as I can remember I have been drawing and making. I love both and don’t see a huge difference between the two. Illustration and jewellery (for me) are both about decoration, engaging with materials and creating characters and fantastical worlds. After graduating I struggled to find enough work as an illustrator (I was never very good at trying to sell myself), so I spent years working in what were supposed to be temporary jobs, in a cafe and managing a vintage shop. All the time I was drawing and making and waiting to be ‘discovered’. In the end, I had the idea to take my drawings and put them onto a physical product that people would want to buy. I had done a lot of screen-printing at college, and I had made various accessories (jewellery, purses, fascinators) out of leather, so it seemed like the next logical step to combine to two. Leather is so tactile and a joy to work with and it seemed to be a great surface to print on, so I did some tests, liked what happened and out came my first collection (Orchard).

Rosita Bonita Siren Collection

How do the two skills influence each other in your work?
All my pieces begin as drawings, and the pieces are often formed from a combination of separate 2D elements, so assembling them into the finished product is a bit like collage. Having had no training in jewellery, I suppose my whole approach is influenced by image-making; having said that, with each new collection, I am adding more metal elements and playing with different construction techniques. For my next collections I am working on a few more sculptural touches.

Rosita Bonita Siren Collection

You worked as part of design duo Dirty Drawers with artist Laura Gill, how did this relationship come about?
My best friend from my Foundation course went on to do a degree at Central Saint Martins and I met Laura there. She’s such an inspirational character. She has tremendous energy, a really positive outlook, a carefree demeanour, and a brilliant imagination, which all come out in her work. Laura met a group of artists who were squatting a big house in Peckham and were turning it into a gallery to show their work. She’d been allocated a room in there to use as a studio and exhibition space, and she asked me if I wanted to show there too. It was all quite short notice and I didn’t have anything prepared, so she gave me some drawings she had been working on and asked me to add to them. We had a pile of books of documentary photography, full of inspiring characters and began drawing from them. The process worked like a game of exquisite corpse (which became the name of the series). We would draw sections and cover them up before swapping and continuing to draw. It was more to amuse ourselves than anything else, but we liked the results and kept working and exhibiting together for years to come.
[Jessica: You can see one of Laura’s illustrations in this article as she provided the beautiful portrait of Rowenna]

Rosita Bonita Siren Collection
Rosita Bonita Siren Collection

Do you feel Camberwell prepared you for entrepreneurship?
One highlight I remember from my course at Camberwell was a talk from Tatty Devine. They didn’t come from a jewellery background and didn’t have financial investment, and seemed like genuinely lovely people, so their success story was (and still is) a huge business inspiration. In my final year I did a number of work placements. The first was a short stint at an Illustration agency (CIA). They kindly took me under their wing and showed me a glimpse of the goings on. Then I was lucky enough to work for my 3 heroes of the time; Marmalade Magazine, Shona Heath (Art Director) and Julie Verhoeven [Jessica: I recently mentioned Julie in a Bath in Fashion 2013 Listing which you can read here] They were all hugely inspirational learning experiences and gave me the opportunity to use my craft skills, and feel valued for them. They also supplied me with bits of freelance work after I graduated. However I still didn’t feel I had the confidence to go out hunting for my own work in the real world. The course itself felt like a bit of a bubble. Because I got a 1st, I just stupidly assumed that people would come to my degree show and offer me work. When I graduated, the bubble popped.

Rosita Bonita Siren Collection

What’s been the biggest challenge so far of setting up shop?
The biggest challenge in setting up shop is money. I started Rosita Bonita when I was still working four days a week managing a vintage shop. I didn’t have much cash (or time) to spare, so I have always made things according to the material costs I could run to and the skills I had to make things myself. It’s really frustrating as I have so many ideas of things I would love to make, but am very limited by costs. As things have been going better and better, these frustrations are highlighted more and more. Ideally I wouldn’t be producing everything myself. I would love to just be designing and making samples, then getting the bulk manufactured, and it would be great to have PR, but this is just not possible yet. The business is growing, but very slowly! The further it goes, the more you realise how much you need money. Designing, manufacturing, selling, promoting, building websites, taking photos, and doing accounts and admin all by yourself is not ideal. I’ve also just had one of my designs copied (by someone who does have money for manufacturing, sales & PR), but I can’t afford to take them to court.

Rosita Bonita Siren CollectionRosita Bonita Siren Collection

What are the main inspirations of your work?
My inspiration comes mainly from the past. I’m obsessed with vintage photography and graphic design, anything from the Victorian era through to the ‘50s. I look a lot at Hollywood studio shots from, particularly from the ‘30s. The sets and costumes are mind-blowing. I love watching movies from that time too. The characters are so glamorous and almost cartoon like. I am always amazed at how little we’ve artistically progressed since then. I’m not excited by realism and the mundane. I also love to look at the history of jewellery and the social meanings attached to it. I want people to put on my pieces and feel like they are becoming a fantastical character, or that the jewellery is bringing them luck or special powers.

Rosita Bonita Siren Collection

Your new collection Siren has a seaside theme, what made you choose this?
The Siren collection came out of my research into amulets. There was too much material in there for one collection (it’s actually now spawned 3 – Amulet, She’s my witch & Siren). Mermaids and seahorses, as well as certain types of shell, have been used as charms or amulets. I wanted to take these motifs, but treat them in a different way to the previous collection, which was quite dark and magical. They seemed to be perfect for a light summery collection. There is a still from a lost George Méliès film from c1905 which I had photocopied when I was at Camberwell and had always wanted to use somehow. It was a shot of six ‘mermaids’ posing in this great stage set in a star formation, with solid tails. I tend to visualise the photoshoot/video for the collection before I design the actual pieces (usually including which models/friends and which music to use), and knew I wanted something like this, but with a brighter, more ‘30s seaside resort feel to it. I drew my own version of this (which I’ve since printed on framed glass and t shirts), and that became the basis of the collection. I also looked at loads of other mermaid imagery, from ancient myths, fairytales, figureheads, movie stills, tattoo designs and carnival exhibits. I wanted to capture girlhood escapist fantasies of being a mermaid.

Rosita Bonita Siren CollectionRosita Bonita Siren Collection

Your jewellery has been featured in places like Nylon and Elle, how does it feel to see your work in mainstream mags?
It’s very rewarding to see my work in magazines, of any kind. I Google myself every few months and usually find some new mention in a blog or something. It keeps me going. More please!

What plans do you have for the future?
I’m not very good at planning ahead and managing my time. I have the next two collections designed in my head (just need to grab a moment to get them on paper and to develop the samples), but beyond that I’m never sure exactly what is to come. I will be working on finding some new stockists, so more people can discover me. I have three new international ones in the pipelines, which is all very exciting.

How would a reader go about purchasing one of your pieces?
I have a shop on my website . I don’t discontinue previous collections, as I don’t like the disposable nature of fashion, so most pieces are still available to order, if they are not in stock, and certain pieces can be made in custom colours. I’m also open to illustration, design, bespoke accessory/costume commissions and collaborations, so feel free to get in touch!

Rosita Bonita by Maya Beus
Illustration of piece from Rosita Bonita Siren collection by Maya Beus

All unreferenced illustrations and photography were provided by the lovely Rowenna Harrison.

Categories ,50s, ,amulets, ,Camberwell, ,Collaborations, ,Costume, ,custom, ,design, ,designer, ,Dirty Drawers, ,fairytales, ,fashion, ,framed glass, ,graduate, ,graduation, ,illustration, ,interview, ,Jessica Cook, ,jewellery, ,Julie Verhoeven, ,Laura Gill, ,leather, ,Louise Smith, ,magical, ,Mermaids, ,Myths, ,Rosita Bonita, ,Rowenna Harrison, ,seahorses, ,Shell, ,Shona Heath, ,Siren, ,special powers, ,T-shirts, ,Victoria Haynes, ,Victorian era, ,vintage, ,‘30s seaside resort

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Amelia’s Magazine | Belle Sauvage: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Belle Sauvage A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman

Belle Sauvage A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman.

For A/W 2014 Belle Sauvage once again put together a collection that featured their trademark mishmash of quirky prints and youthful sportsluxe. This season they were inspired by the ladies of the night, specifically Paris Cats After Midnight, those iconic French women who did not let the devastation of two World Wars stand in the way of a good time. This was translated into prints, embroideries and trims featuring the ‘feminine weapons’ of choice – chains, lipsticks, necklaces and pearls. On shift dresses symmetrical designs with overlaid bubbles had a distinct Metropolis feel, and overall there was a definite 80s style to this collection, featuring as it did simple black heels, asymmetric style pillar box hats with dangling chains and foxy cut off red gloves. Boxy quilted crop jackets, flared peplums on pencil skirts and bodycon dresses further referenced that most decadent of decades in this super fun collection, which finished with a high octane floor length red dress and coat.

Belle Sauvage A/W 2014 Gaarte

Belle Sauvage A/W 2014 by Gaarte.

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Belle Sauvage AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory. Read more about Belle Sauvage in our review and interview here and here.

Categories ,80s, ,A/W 2014, ,Belle Sauvage, ,bodycon, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Isher Dhiman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Metropolis, ,Paris Cats After Midnight, ,print, ,sportsluxe

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