Amelia’s Magazine | Youjia Jin AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 9
Everything about the Youjia Jin collection was well considered. Perfect tailoring was given a unique and fanciful twist, deftly playing with usual proportions and stylistic norms. A coat appeared one thing from the front and another from the back, with a swishing cape attached to a smartly tailored jacket. Sheer was combined with wool, cable knit provided detail on a pleated suit dress and gossamer light cascading ruffles adorned skirt waists, sleeves and hems. A traditional single breasted suit collar became the main feature on a coat dress. My favourite piece was a beautiful pinstripe wrap over dress that flared elegantly over a dark underskirt: so flattering and different.

Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 1
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 17
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 38
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 45
Youjia Jin AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 37
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Youjia Jin AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Show report, ,Youjia Jin

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Fashion Scout Ones To Watch S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink
Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

This season Fashion Scout‘s Ones to Watch featured two designers that I spotted some time ago, and two that were new to me. Somewhat impressively, three are also alumni of the London College of Fashion.

Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia GregoryYoujia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

First up Youjia Jin introduced an elegant and sophisticated predominantly monochrome collection that was sent down the catwalk to a backdrop of tribal beats. Draped pleats, belts, flared waists and cable knit were used to spice up an elegant selection of suiting worn with flat two tone shoes. The use of see through voile and steel grey dip dyeing brought further interest to a collection that was very commercially aware.

MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink
MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia GregoryMin Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Next up Min Wu did not disappoint. In fact I think this was definitely my favourite collection of the lot; somehow combining an avante grade use of fabrics and silhouette to create a very wearable and fun collection. Billowy tops were worn with suiting striped shorts, billowing chiffon bounced from hips and trompe l’oeil plastic provided additional interest. As always Min Wu accompanied the collection with marvellous accessories: curlicued headbands, colourful oversize beads and bright buttons.

Keisho Nishiyama_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte .jpg
Keisho Nishiyama by Gaarte.

Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Smoke City’s classic 90s track Underwater Love accompanied the second collection from Keiko Nishiyama. In her preview interview the Japanese designer explained how she was inspired by aquariums and collections of objects. Fluid fabrics were layered with more structured garments, printed tights adding to the busy effect. This collection was as highly patterned as her first; featuring shells, coral and fishes aplenty, but I wild have liked to see a bit more variety in her print designs.

Cassandra verity green_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte
Cassandra Verity Green by Gaarte.

Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Finally, Cassandra Verity went for a clubby feel with body con t-shirt dresses, cut out leggings and a variety of acid knitted textures. Brightly coloured wigs and fluff on collars, stoles and low heeled shoes added to the party atmosphere, with rigid plastic backpacks and clutch bags adding a very 90s air to the catwalk. Patterning was circular and optical in nature. Certainly not a collection for the faint hearted!

Categories ,Cassandra Verity, ,catwalk, ,Dom&Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Keiko Nishiyama, ,knitwear, ,London College of Fashion, ,Min Wu, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,S/S 2015, ,Smoke City, ,SS15, ,Underwater Love, ,Youjia Jin

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion MA Fashion Show 2014, Womenswear: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Mariana Jungmann by Emma Farrarons

Mariana Jungmann by Emma Farrarons.

The London College of Fashion MA show was held in a huge ballroom at the back of the Waldorf Hotel, a fitting location for this highly regarded event. I was late arriving, and managed to squeeze myself in next to the catwalk entrance – not the best place for great photos, but I did my best. Here’s a run down of the hottest new fashion design talent. First up, womenswear.

Barbara Kolasinski AW 2014-heart ruffle

Barbara Kolasinski AW 2014

Barbara Kolasinski AW 2014-purple top

Barbara Kolasinski AW 2014

The show opened with the colourful designs of Barbra Kolasinski, who hand dyes her own textiles in the bath tub. Pale pink and lilac tufts of goats hair were fashioned into huge coats, muffs and handbags, worn with mohair capes and chenille striped lamp skirts. Outsized ruffled tartan heart shirts gave an up-to-date nod to Barbra’s Scottish heritage.

Eun Kyeng Seo AW 2014

Eun Kyeng Seo AW 2014

Eun Kyeng Seo AW 2014

Grunge was an obvious influence in a distressed and heavily layered collection from Eun Kyeng Seo, featuring washed denim, rough exposed seams and plaid.

Mariana Jungmann AW 2014-lace dress

Mariana Jungmann AW 2014

Mariana Jungmann AW 2014-black dress

Brazilian designer Mariana Jungmann showcased her innovative lace making techniques in provocative dresses and a leather laser cut two piece.

Min Kim A/W 2014 by Claire Kearns

Min Kim A/W 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Min Kim AW 2014-leopard

Min Kim AW 2014

Min Kim AW 2014-silver skirt

Min Kim AW 2014-circle dress

Min Kim showcased some innovative circular pattern cutting in a highly wearable collection constructed out of a tantalising combination of metallic leather, mohair and leopard camo print. Think on-trend rounded shoulders, semi circular hemlines and a dramatic dress with a gigantic round wool skirt.

Youjia Jin AW 2014

Youjia Jin created an androgynous silhouette in shades of grey and white, with pleats and ruffles adding an extra dimension to the soft tailoring.

Yuanxi Sun AW 2014

Yuanxi Sun AW 2014

Yuanxi Sun AW 2014

Yuanxi Sun focused on a sporty look inspired by bedtime, with brilliant white elastic cuffed shirts and puffy jackets covered in a bold squared pattern reminiscent of graph paper, all accessorised with laid back baseball caps.

Read my review of the menswear graduates here. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,2014, ,Barbra Kolasinski, ,Claire Kearns, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Eun Kyeng Seo, ,London College of Fashion, ,Mariana Jungmann, ,Min Kim, ,Report, ,review, ,Waldorf Hotel, ,Womenswear, ,Youjia Jin, ,Yuanxi Sun

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