David Koma A/W 2013 by Krister Selin
David Koma is a previous NEWGEN winner and continues to attract much attention with his sculptural pieces that push the boundaries of future fashion. It comes as no surprise, then, that Koma is again a worthy recipient of the Fashion Forward award.
These Saturday night shows are always massively oversubscribed, and after an epic cycle from Bow to Somerset House I was in no mood for the bunfight that would no doubt ensue. I managed to get a fairly decent spot on the end of the second row, but a woman stood right in the gap blocking any chance of taking a decent picture. When I asked politely if she planned to spend the duration of the show there, she looked as if I’d asked her if she wouldn’t mind getting her tits out.
There were bodies everywhere. Burly security guards patrolled up and down, barking orders at people with standing tickets to squash in as tightly as possible. As I patiently waited for some show action in the hope there wouldn’t be any nasty accidents, I surveyed the crowd and noticed these three hot blondes (above). Who are they? One of The Saturdays? All of The Saturdays? They garnered lots of media attention as audience photographers clambered over themselves to get a shot, creaming their proverbial drawers in the process.
All photography by Matt Bramford
The invite – my favourite this A/W 2013 season – was a black rectangle with a spot-laminate finish to look like vinyl. I imagined that this a gave clue to Koma‘s inspiration for this particular collection, but had no idea how literally he would take things…
David Koma A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
While Koma has never strayed away from a futuristic direction, there was definitely a more progressive feel to this collection. Koma‘s angular lines that have become his signature were scarce, this time the beautiful form of 12″ vinyl was replicated across every single garment. Circular leathers encased models around the neck and waist, provided structure for bell-shaped skirts, supplied interest in sexy skintight pieces and formed high-gloss shapes across busts and bottoms. Zips joined garments together, providing even more cyclical shapes.
David Koma A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Juxtaposing fabrics were married together – another Koma signature – with high-gloss leathers mixed with rich wools and cottons. Laser-cut leather, flock print, organza and quilting were all fused together in harmony.
David Koma A/W 2013 by Krister Selin
Koma‘s relationship with the colour black isn’t in any danger, with the opening looks relying entirely on fashion’s favourite colour. This season, though, welcome blasts of nude, bright red (my favourite pieces), teal and deep blue allowed for a linear colour palette that worked effortlessly almost to the point of unnoticeable. Models were styled with simple centre partings, long, thin ponytails and vertiginous heels, in collaboration once again with Alain Quilici.
David Koma A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
It takes a talented designer to take such ephemeral inspiration and produce a cohesive and exciting collection without verging on pantomime. David Koma is the nuts.
Categories ,12″, ,A/W 2013, ,A/W’13, ,british fashion council, ,catwalk, ,David Koma, ,fashion, ,Fashion-forward, ,Krister Selin, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Newgen, ,review, ,Somerset House, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Vinyl
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