Video games aren’t just a boy’s toy, even if all the girls in them seem to end up looking like one. Anne-Sofie Back’s A/W10 collection drew inspiration from her own hours logged in as an unsuccessful stripper in alternative online world “Second Life”. Back, whose inspiration often comes from pop culture and body image issues translated what she saw as a conformity of ideals as most players chose to customize their avatars into “page 3 models and uninspired versions of reality TV contestants”.
Anne-Sofie Back A/W10 Illustration by Katie Harnett
What we got were jeans with the waist cutout topped with super cropped matching jean jackets sprouting gashes of pink and white tulle and cutout bodystockings. Her avatar seems to have been the high street customizing type, a cross between avant garde and russian bride.
In the urban basement of The Flower Cellars, shouting punk music turned pop and the cloudy cement haze was the perfect canvas for Anne-Sofie Back’s typically cool color palette. Colorless greys gave way to lavender leathers in one very wantable boxy cropped motorcycle jacket.
Cutout waistbands and cropped jean tops with tulle. apparently not for everyone, check out the expressions on the faces in the crowd
This is Anne Sofie back’s 5th year showing and the designer was recently appointed creative director of Cheap Monday after taking a year off and moving back to her native Sweden to start a family. Taking cues from hot or not columns and other pop culture fodder Back once sent models down the runway with the black pen markings of cosmetic surgery and others with bulging breast pockets and wrapped in swollen tubes.
Black slashed bodystocking with grey wing armature
But this collection’s body image issue took form as muscle shirts. In devore jersey paired with dyed denim and again in tulle applique tracing abs and pec and often trailing lengths if the gauzy material. The tulle skirts and leggings had some issues with unflattering placement at times with cones of the stuff pouring out of butt cheeks and crotches.
White tulle sprouts from the most unlikely places
There’s an undeniably home made attitude to her collection but where last Fall was helped along with tailored trousers and knit dresses this collection veered into gauzy georgette skirts and cutout body stockings. Only one actual coat came down the runway but in its terry cloth texture, belted volume and eggshell color it had the unfortunate effect of looking like it should be hanging on a peg in the bathroom.
one coat in the collection, although white terry cloth may not have been the best fabric choice
At times her textural melange was truly beautiful. A laddered-effect boucle wool in thunderstorm colors with bits of lurex reappeared several times as did a fantastic jaquard white jumper. A cropped motorcycle jacket in buttery thin matte leather was exceedingly wantable and her signature batwing sleeves were beautifully balanced with a button up georgette shirt.
Gauze shirts with laddering boucle trousers
This may not be a collection whose pieces are immediately absorbed into your closet but Anne Sofie Back’s collections continue to question the dubious world we are slowly creating around us and in moments of inspired design has managed to subvert it into something quite beautiful.
Categories ,Anne-Sofie Back, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Flower Cellar, ,London Fashion Week, ,swedish designer, ,Womenswear
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