Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Mode, Florian Jayet

Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West.

I think it was round about show three at Fashion Mode when I was suddenly implored to shunt up into a non existent space so that two more people could be squeezed on to the end of the front row. Now excuse me, cure but if you’re that late to a fashion show, order isn’t it just polite behaviour to hover at the back? That’s certainly what I do when the situation arises.

Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Faye West.

So it was with mild aggravation that I watched the Florian Jayet collection parade in front of me. Jayet is known for his structured outfits befitting of a modern amazonian, viagra and for S/S 2012 he was inspired by the Japanese myth of Yurei, whereby those who are murdered must spend the afterlife seeking their killer in order to free their tormented spirits and finally reach heaven.

Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet by Sarah Jayne Morris
Florian Jayet S/S 2012 by Sarah Jayne Morris.

I think it must have been in the styling that this concept really took hold – models had seriously over the top back-combed hair, as if dragged through an otherworldly mire. Added to this they wore exceptionally dark eye make-up and bloodily smudged lips that gave the impression they had been feasting on something unholy. To top the look off they wore chain headdresses that draped low over their eyes. It was all in all an unappealing look that dominated the clothing far more than was necessary.

Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Florian Jayet S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Far more successful were the smart tailored separates in white: structured skater dresses featuring cut out details and jackets with high waisted peplums and flowing caped sleeves. However printed floral lace panels and bodies were wide off the mark, giving the collection an unnecessarily cheap finish. Let’s hope that next season sees Florian Jayet return to form.

Categories ,Afterlife, ,Fashion Mode, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,Florian Jayet, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,japanese, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Myth, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Yurei

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