Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Showroom Review: EcoLuxe London

'Ecolooks' EcoLuxe London Exhibition LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

‘Ecolooks’ by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

I was hugely excited that during this London Fashion Week I had the opportunity not only to go and see but also exhibit at the EcoLuxe London exhibition that took place in a beautiful space on the ground floor of the Kingsway Hall Hotel almost next to the Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Freemasons’ Hall. Ecoluxe London takes place twice a year during London Fashion Week and is a non-profit platform that promotes fashion related ecoluxury brands and aims to raise awareness of ecological issues with the public. Its organisers, information pills Stamo and Elena Garcia, who are sustainable womenswear designers themselves, featured over 40 brands this year and EcoLuxe London is growing every year – here’s only a few examples that took my fancy!

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Lucy Harvey Ethical Stylist

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Ethical Stylist Lucy Harvey and Hetty Rose

Ethical stylist Lucy Harvey styling shoe designer Hetty Rose with a Plastic Seconds headpiece and necklace.

Upon entering the exhibition visitors were greeted by superbly talented stylist Lucy Harvey and her assistant Charlie Divall, who offered to upstyle them with various pieces from the exhibitors’ tables and then photograph them and tweet about it. I thought in this way Lucy offered a really fun, interactive introduction to the exhibition and a great way of promoting both the designers’ and the visitors’ work.

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Lupe Castro wearing Supported by Rain and Plastic Seconds

Stylist Lupe Castro styled by Lucy Harvey with a Supported by Rain coat and a Plastic Seconds headpiece, photo by Charlie Divall

Walking further into the exhibition the first thing to catch my eye was a series of gloriously colourful raincoats by Maria Ampatielou’s new brand Supported by Rain – seen above. Made of recycled umbrellas and end-of-roll waterproof fabrics, these raincoats are not only beautiful but also cleverly fold into their own pockets or hoods, whose insides have remained dry, so that you can put them back into your bag without any soaked diary dramas!

STAMO EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 by Celine Elliott

By Stamo S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 STAMO belt

By Stamo, which featured in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, is another brand I enjoyed especially because of the theatricality in the designs and the extensive use of found and recycled materials whose original form is often retained – as seen in this bullet belt.

INALA LONDON EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 by Caire Kearns

INALA London S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

My neighbour exhibitor Alani Gibbon of INALA London showed some designs which were a natural hit with me becuase of their bright colours, but they further impressed me with their cleverness and versatility. For example a hooded short dress could be turned around and worn as an all-in-one playsuit! Not to mention the use of pulped eucalyptus fabric which felt amazing to touch.

OUTSIDER Ecoluxe London LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Outsider Fashion S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

I was thrilled to see the brand Outsider winning the JP Selects womenwear award at the end of the show as they stongly promote the notion that ‘ethical’ fashion should just look like very good fashion with their range of classic but very stylish designs.

HEMYCA EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 by Celine Elliott

Hemyca S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott

Hemyca is a multi award winning brand and I was most attracted by this beautifully tailored matching dress and coat.

LFW SS2012 Agnes Valentine Ecoluxe London by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Agnes Valentine S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Along with Hemyca above, whom I was not aware of, it was great to discover my dream swimsuit designer Agnes Valentine! The brand sources fine italian eco fabrics and their designs are minimal and classic but with bold colours and very feminine indeed.

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Hetty Rose shoes

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Hetty Rose shoes worn by Alice Wilby

It was an honour to meet another ACOFI designer Hetty Rose whose fun bespoke shoes are made using vintage Japanese kimono fabrics, Alice Wilby from Futurefrock modelled this pair and did not want to take them off!

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Golden Grass Company clutch

Next to Hetty Rose I found the friendly couple behind the Golden Grass Company who design jewellery and accessories for native artisans in Brazil to make out of a naturally golden, light and durable fibre, which is grown without chemicals or pesticides, under fair trade standards – LOVED this clutch!

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Monique Luttin headpiece

Sharing a table with me was Monique Luttin who makes intriguing headpieces using offcuts or vintage fabrics and found objects – I particularly liked this bird scull one which has a tribal, ritualistic element to it.

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Palstic Seconds printer packaging pendand

And finally a piece from the Plastic Seconds recycled jewellery collection I exhibited made out of the plastic, colourful bits one finds when unpacking a new printer…

As Hannah Bullivant pointed out in a previous post on EcoLuxe London, hopefully sustainable practices in fashion design will become mainstream and the brands that are still termed ‘ethical’ will no longer have to exhibit in separate showrooms and sections such as EcoLuxe or Estethica. Hopefully soon.

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou unless otherwise stated.

Categories ,Agnes Valentine, ,Alice Wilby, ,By Stamo, ,Celine Elliott, ,Charlie Divall, ,Claire Kearns, ,Classic, ,Coat, ,design, ,designer, ,Dress, ,ecodesign, ,Ecoluxe, ,Elena Garcia, ,estethica, ,Ethical brands, ,fashion, ,Feminine, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Futurefrock, ,Headpiece, ,Hemyca, ,Hetty Rose, ,Inala London, ,jewellery, ,Kingsway Hall Hotel, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy Harvey, ,Lupe Castro, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,minimal, ,Monique Luttin Millinery, ,Outsider, ,Outsider Fashion, ,Plastic Seconds, ,Pulped Eucalyptus, ,Recycled Materials, ,shoes, ,Slow Fashion, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Supported by Rain, ,Swimwear, ,tailoring, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,vintage, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Marie-Louise Vogt: The New Era Knitter

marie-louise 1

Maire-Louise Vogt a designer from Hamburg, sickness has created an up-to-date take on knitting for her Spring/Summer 2010 collection. Her focus on traditional creative methods, pills does not allow – even an inch of – the colloquial, prescription elaborate take on fashion to disappear, complicated and intense designs remain the focal point.

Vogt recently showed at Berlin Fashion Week, whilst also featuring on a number of blogs, including the notorious Style Bubble.

maire louise 3

Her collection incorporates ideas Amelia’s Magazine is renowned for promoting; the use of ethically sound, natural materials, attempting to avoid worldly damage whilst focusing on originality. By using organic-style processes and unconventional textiles, Marie-Louise products hold a handmade appearance and in the main avoid the environmentally destructive idea of mass production.

marie louise 5

The look is quite an unusual one, but Marie-Louise creates something that’s wearable, and quirky in comparison to high street creations.

The Spring/Summer 2010 collection is titled, ‘Hey Gorgeous,’ and encompasses a look that is both boho and modern. There are lots of bright and bold colours, suggesting a playful edge to the pieces. This fits well with the idea of the flower child, which is evident in Vogt’s floral based dresses and accessories.

marie louise 2

A focus on cut-out’s is apparent, while aspects of the lingerie look are present in the dresses see-through sections. Spaces between fabric petals appear in a variety of Vogt’s designs, presenting potential issues regarding wearability – not everyone is comfortable to bare all. However, team these intricate creations with leggings or a light under slip and your problem is solved whilst keeping a splash of sartorial independence.

marie louise 4

Vogt has created beautiful creations that play against the stereotypical look associated with knitting. She has brought a contemporary, stylish flair to her collection, through the use of complex shapes, fresh colours and strong unique designs. Her passion for nature is a clear inspiration in all aspects of her design process, from the techniques she creates her designs from – such as knitting, weaving and crochet – to the ornaments that adorn them and the earthly style shapes Vogt uses.

Belts, cardigans and other accessories bring outfits together and Vogt has designed her own jewellery line. These spectacular, and rather large creations, could be worn instead of her dresses, with a t-shirt and jeans if you want a Marie-Louise piece, but don’t quite suit her unstructured designs. The jewellery replicates her crochet effect and comes in a variety of colours from nude subtleties  to vivid and audacious.

Black, sheer dresses fit snugly, but keep with her typical style through the knitted spiral shapes that embellish the fronts of these designs.

marie louise 6

In comparison with previous collections she has definitely put her focus into a crochet, cut-out style. Although wearing it as the lookbook portrays may be difficult, it is easy enough to develop our own look based on just one of these elaborate pieces, and that is what fashion is all about – an individual approach. Something that Marie-Louise Vogt, with her knitted, handmade and organic style outfits, does so well.

Categories ,Berlin Fashion Week, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Hamburg, ,jewellery, ,knitting, ,Marie Louise Vogt, ,SS10, ,stylebubble

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Amelia’s Magazine | MAWI: Robots Invasion Video Celebrates Iconic Jewellery

MAWI Robot Invasion video model
I love the cute dancing horse and robots in this wonderful animated fashion film to celebrate the cult accessories brand MAWI. Here they describe the making of the video:

Inspired by the prolific animations of Jan Svankmajer, Robots Invasion is a surrealistic yet playfully spirited stop-motion film celebrating the retrospect collections of luxury costume jewellery and accessories brand MAWI. It is the sixth and latest fashion film in MAWI’s retrospective show reel. Created through the famously finicky stop motion technique, Robots Invasion is a psychedelic journey through a treasure chest of MAWI’s classic collections. The protagonist, a mannequin mix of equal parts android and porcelain doll, follows a team of tin toy robots across a surrealistic leafy Parisian garden, tripping with winking rocking horses and twirling ribbons.

MAWI Robot Invasion video ring
MAWI Robot Invasion video horse
MAWI Robot Invasion video eating
MAWI Robot Invasion video apples
Creatively chaotic and marvellously mischievous, Robots Invasion burrows down the rabbit hole and presents the viewer with a crystal clear insight into the weird, whimsical and wonderful world of MAWI.

CREDITS
ART DIRECTOR: Kati Garbuz, DIRECTOR: Masha Vasyukova, STARRING: Lou Gala, MAKE UP ARTIST: Sophie Walker, HAIR: Alice Lewis, COLOUR: GLOSS, DRESS & JACKET: Robert Wun, MUSIC: ‘Jacques Tati’ Cro Magnon, Special Thanks to Evgueni Galperine

Categories ,Horse, ,Jan Svankmajer, ,jewellery, ,Luxury, ,Mawi, ,Robots, ,Robots Invasion

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Amelia’s Magazine | Metric Collective Jewellery Pop Up Exhibition at 94 Columbia Road

Metric Collective show 2011-Myia Bonner
Jewellery by Myia Bonner.

Metric Collective describes itself as a ‘collective of thinkers and doers, troche designers and makers who use co-creativity to engage and empower.’

Metric Collective show 2011-Myia Bonner
Pendant from The Diamond Collection by Myia Bonner.

I went along to the opening event a few weeks back, but the first Metric Collective pop up exhibition runs till 28th August so you still have plenty of time to pop on down. The exhibition has been made possible by Simon, a long time jeweller and owner of the store at 94 Columbia Road, who wants to encourage fresh young talent as well as invigorate interest in his own work. Metric Collective was put together primarily by jewellers Emma Madden and Myia Bonner.

Metric Collective show 2011-Emma Madden and Myia Bonner
Metric Collective creators, Emma Madden and Myia Bonner.

Shimell and Madden are showcasing some delicious gold and silver jewellery that play on the patterns created by gem facets and traditional stone setting skills. Luke Shimell provides the technical diamond cutting brains whilst Emma Madden provides the creative know how – by day she’s a PR for another jeweller in the local area and for the Metric Collective project she brings those skills to the fore.

Shimmell and Madden
Metric Collective show 2011-Emma Madden and Luke Shimmell
Emma Madden and Luke Shimmell.

Myia Bonner graduated from the brilliant Jewellery degree at Middlesex in 2010 and The Diamond Collection is an accomplished series of large diamond inspired cutwork rings and necklaces. Each piece has been hand finished to make it unique. You can also see Myia Bonner at New Designers this weekend.

Metric Collective show 2011-Myia Bonner
Myia Bonner in front of her collection.

As well as jewellery from Shimell and Madden there is also abstract wallpaper and illustrations from Jake Ambridge and a string window installation from Lora Avedian, all based on the geometric theme.

Jake Ambridge Metric Collective
Artwork by Jake Ambridge.

Perhaps most interesting of all are the collaborations – Emma Madden has worked with local school children to come up with some interesting geometric designs which are shown on the wall and the best of which will soon be made up into a piece of jewellery. Metric Collective is also providing a space for work by the Esther Benjamins Trust, set up to help disadvantaged girls in Nepal to make a living.

Metric Collective show 2011-Esther Benjaimins trust
Jewellery by the Esther Benjaimins Trust.

It’s a great idea to pull together creatives from different disciplines so that they can aid and encourage each other in the form of a collective, and it’s one of the first times that I’ve discovered a PR and journalist included in such a line up, their valuable expertise acknowledged for the part they play in promoting small events. You can never have enough help from those who specialise in these subjects, and for those of you still at college it’s well worth bearing in mind – when I teach I always encourage my students to make the most of the varied art and design networks they have available to them at university… contacts that it can be hard to come by once the big bad world beckons.

Metric Collective show 2011-Shimmell and Madden
Metric Collective show 2011

If you find yourself in Columbia Road anytime soon make sure you take a trip down to 94 Columbia Road and check out the talent for yourself. The Metric Collective pop up exhibition runs between 5th June – 28th August 2011. I warn you though… you are likely to want it all. But if you do splash the cash you will be safe in the knowledge that you’ll be supporting some great new talent in the process.

Categories ,Cerise, ,collective, ,Columbia Road, ,craft, ,Diamonds, ,Emma Madden, ,Esther Benjamins Trust, ,Given, ,illustrations, ,installation, ,Jake Ambridge, ,jewellery, ,Lora Avedian, ,Luke Shimmell, ,Metric Collective, ,Myia Bonner, ,New Designers, ,Precious Stones, ,Simon, ,The Diamond Collection, ,Wallpaper

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Amelia’s Magazine | Michelle Lowe-Holder: the ethical designer who is reinventing the fashion accessory

Michelle Lowe-Holder S/S 2011 by Michelle Urvall Nyren
Michelle Lowe-Holder S/S 2011 by Michelle Urvall Nyren.

Canadian Michelle Lowe-Holder completed an MA in knitwear at Central Saint Martins and launched her eponymous collection in 2001. She has always included sustainable elements in her collections, patient pills but having children made her think more deeply about her long-term impact. Being mentored by the Centre for Sustainable Fashion was hugely influential in persuading her to work in a fully ethical manner.

Michelle quickly realised that she had always been most interested in the details, patient so she decided to concentrate on designing accessories in heritage craft styles from all the offcuts that had accumulated in her studio over the years. She has collaborated with photographer Polly Penrose to showcase her new accessories collections through images of unusual beauty…

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Michelle Lowe-Holder’s accessories in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, remedy alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

Categories ,accessories, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Canadian, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Eco fashion, ,Ethical Fashion, ,Heritage, ,jewellery, ,Michelle Lowe-Holder, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén

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Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2012 Jewellery Graduates and One Year On

New Designers part one 2012 -Cassandra Pittaway
Sadly I was unable to make it to the main stands showcasing the graduate jewellery collections (Snarfle got fed up and we had to leave) but I did manage to find a few gems (hur hur) amongst the craft displays, and there were plenty of jewellers displaying their new work in the One Year On section. Here’s what I found…

New Designers part one 2012 -Cassandra Pittaway
Ceramic and metal neckpieces by Cassandra Pittaway were inspired by cars and fairgrounds. Loved those big bold shapes and colours… reminiscent of automobile style designs in Prada’s S/S 2012 collection.

New Designers part one 2012 -Hannah May Chapman
Intriguing crochet jewellery by Hannah May Chapman echoed body parts and coral forms.

New Designers part one 2012 -Mayra Cunningham
At Kensington and Chelsea College I was drawn towards enamelled acorn jewellery by Mayra Cunningham.

New Designers part one 2012 -Filipa Oliveira
New Designers part one 2012 -Filipa Oliveira
In the One Year On section a host of jewellery designers were displaying their latest designs. Bee inspiration is big in design, as seen in these honeycomb filigree designs by Filipa Oliveira.

New Designers part one 2012 -Nicola Crawford
One for typography lovers: decorative balls by Nicola Crawford revealed a seething mass of letters on closer inspection.

New Designers part one 2012 -Harriet Knightley
Harriet Knightley‘s colourful anodised rings were inspired by 60s colours and shapes.

New Designers part one 2012 -Amy Logan Jewellery
Deceptively delicate designs by Amy Logan Jewellery are inspired by the drawn line.

New Designers part one 2012 -Alexandra Tosto
Alexandra Tosto‘s colourful hexagon pipes make appealing pendants, part of the Honeycomb Dream Collection.

New Designers part one 2012 -Kate Gilliland
New Designers part one 2012 -Kate Gilliland
Kate Gilliland‘s dead animals make curiously beautiful jewellery, especially tiny jaw and spine earrings.

Next: best picks from New Designers 2012 part two: including illustration and product design.

Categories ,2012, ,Alexandra Tosto, ,Amy Logan Jewellery, ,Cabbage is King, ,Cassandra Pittaway, ,Filipa Oliveira, ,Gin Durham, ,graduate, ,Hannah May Chapman, ,Harriet Knightley, ,Hayley Dix, ,Honeycomb Dream Collection, ,jewellery, ,Kate Gilliland, ,Kensington and Chelsea College, ,Mayra Cunningham, ,New Designers, ,Nicola Crawford, ,One Year On, ,review

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Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2013 Jewellery: The Best Graduate Designers

Annie Lucilla wearing her etched earrings
New Designers show 2013-Annabelle Lucilla
I always discover a huge number of brilliant new jewellery designers at the New Designers exhibition, and this year was no exception. Firstly, at the One Year On section I was blown away by a wonderful display from Annabelle Lucilla, who recognised me from twitter – always a strange but rather lovely thing when it happens! This multiple award winning jewellery designer is currently a resident of Cockpit Arts, thanks to a recent bursary. I love the way that she uses her own illustrations to create unique statement pieces; here she is wearing a pair of her beautiful etched dangly earrings in front of an illustration that features in one of her pieces.

Silicone jewels by Isabelle Busnell in oneyearon
I was also drawn to this beautiful display by Isabelle Busnell, who recreates traditional designs such as cameos in deceptively flexible silicone.

beaded knitted fringed necklaces by HannaBalloo
At Central Saint Martins Hannah Newell, who designs under the name Hanna Baloo, created these immensely cute beaded, knitted and fringed necklaces featuring ghostly letters.

Simona Kubertavivacuite - jewellery
New Designers show 2013-Simona Kubertaviciute
This year there were were loads of designs inspired by lifeforms found in the oceans, which seems to be an ongoing trend in jewellery. Simona Kubertaviciute from Bucks New University was inspired by sea creatures that overtake shipwrecks and other underwater manmade structures. She works with brass and Fimo to create peculiarly shaped gems that look oxidised and eroded, as if they have indeed just been hauled out of the ocean.

New Designers show 2013-clio may davies
I’m a sucker for a good dangly earring, and love these organic offerings from the Crustacean Collection by Clio May Davies, a graduate of UCA Rochester.

New Designers show 2013-alma sophia
Alma Sophia was inspired by the tactile feel of jewellery to create her Touch ring collection, which come with convex or concave fronts that are meant to be explored by the thumb.

New Designers show 2013-Kirsty Isla Nicholson oversized rings
Giant white chocolate pearls by Kirsty Isla Nicholson
At the University of Dundee Kirsty Isla Nicholson had created an extremely imaginative collection working in unorthodox materials and unexpected scales: giant white chocolate pearls and oversized rings inspired by the construction of earring backs and jewellery boxes were particularly clever. Her beautifully made 187 rings wall installation asked visitors to donate to the Cystic Fibrosis Trust in exchange for a ring.

New Designers show 2013 fay mcglashan
Fay McGlashan worked in porcelain and metal to create large pendants that mimic the carapaces of mottled and ridged insects.

New Designers show 2013-Mirka Janeckova
The deepwater inspiration continued with the White Collection from Mirka Janeckova, featuring rings that seemed to sprout like exotic corals in all directions.

Oversized gold flock ring by Nadia Deen
This oversized Alien gold and brass flock ring was made by Nadia Deen at The Cass.

Olivia Creber beard jewellery for men
Edinburgh College of Art graduate Olivia Creber‘s Veni, Veci beard jewellery for men was used to style an award winning catwalk show earlier this year. These certainly make an unusual and eye-catching accessory that push the traditional definition of jewellery, so it’s no surprise to discover that she begins an MA at the Royal College of Art this year.

New Designers show 2013-Caitlin Gregory-Thomas
New Designers show 2013-Caitlin Gregory-Thomas flock pins
At the well appointed stand for the Jewellery Futures course in Birmingham Caitlin Gregory-Thomas was inspired by the plight of dairy cows to create this highly unusual collection of pins and bracelets in metal and flock. The centrepiece is a jelly mould character with cow hooves, guaranteed to prompt questions of the wearer. Check out CVGT Jewellery here.

Rosalind Clara Bryan
Over in the stands supporting different disciplines I discovered Rosalind Clara Bryan‘s delicate geometric collection, which is supported by a super professional website.

Karl Robert Gundstrom
On a more conceptual front Karl Robert Gundstrom put together this beautiful display of jewellery made with expanding foam. He will be pursuing his fine art career in Berlin.

I’ve still got 3D wall art, ricrac madness, ceramics and crafts to cover… and that’s just from the first New Designers exhibition…

*Many of these images first appeared on my instagram feed, where you can view my pick of design graduates as I find them.*

Categories ,187 rings, ,2013, ,Alien, ,Alma Sophia, ,Annabelle Lucilla, ,Birmingham, ,Bucks New University, ,Caitlin Gregory-Thomas, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Clio May Davies, ,Cockpit Arts, ,Crustacean Collection, ,CVGT Jewellery, ,Cystic Fibrosis Trust, ,Edinburgh College of Art, ,Fay McGlashan, ,Fimo, ,Hanna Baloo, ,Hannah Newell, ,Isabelle Busnell, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery Futures, ,Karl Robert Gundstrom, ,Kirsty Isla Nicholson, ,Mirka Janeckova, ,Nadia Deen, ,New Designers, ,Olivia Creber, ,One Year On, ,review, ,Rosalind Clara Bryan, ,Royal College of Art, ,Simona Kubertaviciute, ,The Cass, ,Touch, ,UCA Rochester, ,University of Dundee, ,Veni Veci, ,White Collection

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Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2015: The Best Jewellery Design Graduates

New Designers Melissa Martinson 2
New Designers Melissa Martinson
New Designers part one is a jewellery lover’s paradise. First up this fabulous embroidered jewellery by Melissa Martinson of Huddersfield Uni, who has worked with AIDS sufferers in Africa using local techniques to create something wonderful. All the pieces are checked for quality and the workers paid a fair wage. I love the colours and shapes of these statement necklaces!

New Designers Natalie Adams
This amazing perspex and woven necklace is by Natalie Adams.

New Designers Maisie Welch
Maisie Welch played with resin shapes at Edinburgh College of Art.

ND Emily Gore
Emily Gore made this extravagant affair.

ND Karolina Baines
Karolina Baines used circular shapes to create this unusual neckpiece.

New Designers jade Stimpson
This organic jewellery by Jade Stimpson at Hereford College of the Arts uses unusual materials such as bone.

New Designers Chesca Dowthwaite
Chesca Dowthwaite created bold silver rings with deep bowls.

New Designers Amelia Hales
Lasercut jewellery by Amelia Hales at Nottingham Trent Uni was ‘inspired by china, made in the U.K.’

New Designers Katie whittaker 2
New Designers Katie whittakerNew Designers Katie whittaker
I absolutely loved this multi media jewellery by Katie Whittaker at Bath School of Art and Design.

New Designers Venice AW
Birmingham City Uni always turns out a selection of brilliant fine jewellery designers: and it is clearly a popular destination for Chinese students wishing to make the most of the burgeoning luxury market at home. This stunning gold necklace is by Venice AW.

New Designers Vanessa Zou
Jewellery by Vanessa Zou takes a more abstract turn.

New Designers Jing Jocelyn He
As does this Blooming collection by Jing Jocelyn He.

New Designers Rachel Codd
New Designers Rachel Codd 2
Ceramic jewellery by Rachel Codd at Cardiff Met is a successful marriage of the beautiful and the surreal. And she was also selling small pendant versions on her stand (available on etsy here), a clever business-savvy move.

New Designers Naoise Fitzgerald
These bright brooches are by Naoise Fitzgerald at the Dublin National College of Art and Design.

New Designers Senak
Resin pendants by Senak at UCA Rochester make a fun statement.

New Designers mary temilola
Mary Temilola made architectural enamelled necklace designs.

New Designers Sinead Toner
I loved the work of Glasgow College of Art students. This is sweetness made bold by Sinead Toner.

New Designers Maisie ford
And a brilliant use of variegated materials by Maisie Ford.

New Designers Maliha Khan
These chunky rings are by Maliha Khan.

ND CHECKIE IEONG
Checkie Ieong showcased delicate and unusual jewellery.

ND Ieva Mikitaite
Ieva Mikitaite was a precious metal award winner for her delicate expanding jewellery. Very clever!

New designers Rachel Blair
Textural jewellery by Rachel Blair featured strange organic shapes.

New designers Chloe Michell
Enamel silver bowls by Chloe Michell at Plymouth University were part of a very strong collection.

ND Megan Maggie Gray
Over at Duncan of Jordanstone I liked these very wearable but unusual rings and earrings by Megan Gray.

New Designers Dione Bowlt
New Designers Dione Bowlt
Clever gold dipped porcelain earrings by Dione Boult are a great way to hang statement jewels without too much pressure on the ear!

ND Leah Orford
It turns out there were a couple of great designers I missed out on with my first review of the Middlesex University jewellery graduate show. Leah Orford makes jewellery that could double as sculpture.

ND Aelita Pluiskyte
Aelita Pluiskyte created an eye-catching display with her silicone necklaces.

ND Elizabeth Gray jewellery
This Elizabeth Gray necklace was inspired by crystals and microscopic sections.

ND nichakan jewellery
Organic shapes are the inspiration behind Nichakan jewellery.

ND kiki tang
At The Cass I liked floral enamel twig earrings by Kiki Tang.

ND Lynn Tunney
And lastly these playful necklaces are by Lynn Tunney.

All of these images first appeared on the New Designers instagram feed (they very kindly asked me to guest post a favourite selection from both part one and part two of the show) or on my own my instagram feed: follow me there to catch my discoveries as I make them!

Categories ,2015, ,Aelita Pluiskyte, ,Amelia Hales, ,Bath School of Art and Design, ,Birmingham City Uni, ,Blooming, ,Cardiff Met, ,Checkie Ieong, ,Chesca Dowthwaite, ,Chloe Michell, ,Dione Boult, ,Duncan of Jordanstone, ,Edinburgh College of Art, ,Elizabeth Gray, ,Emily Gore, ,Glasgow College of Art, ,Hereford College of the Arts, ,Huddersfield Uni, ,Ieva Mikitaite, ,Jade Stimpson, ,jewellery, ,Jing Jocelyn He, ,Karolina Baines, ,Katie Whittaker, ,Kiki Tang, ,Leah Orford, ,Lynn Tunney, ,Maisie Ford, ,Maisie Welch, ,Maliha Khan, ,Mary Temilola, ,Megan Gray, ,Melissa Martinson, ,middlesex university, ,Naoise Fitzgerald, ,Natalie Adams, ,National College of Art and Design, ,New Designers, ,Nichakan, ,Nichakan Jewellery, ,Nottingham Trent Uni, ,Plymouth University, ,Rachel Blair, ,Rachel Codd, ,review, ,Senak, ,Sinead Toner, ,The Cass, ,UCA Rochester, ,Vanessa Zou, ,Venice AW

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ornella Iannuzzi: an interview with fine art jeweller and ‘Jewellery Oscar’ gold award winner

Ornella Iannuzzi Iris van Gelder
Ornella Iannuzzi by Iris van Gelder.

Ornella Iannuzzi is a fine art jeweller who has trained in both France and the UK. I discovered her unique and unusual designs at the latest edition of London Fashion Week, where she presented a beautiful and playful new collection titled Rock It! as part of the Rock Vault selection. Here she answers a few questions about her process and inspiration.

Ornella Iannuzzi Portrait
You have an Italian name but grew up in the French alps, can you describe a bit more about your childhood, upbringing and influences which have contributed to your style?
My dad is Italian and my mum French and I grew up in a small village in the French Alps surrounded by forests, lakes, and stunning landscapes that witness the geological processes which occurred with the formation of the mountains. So I have been totally immersed in Nature from when I was born. The little hood next to our house was my playground and I could spend hours hidden there, waiting for any wild animals to pop out, or just observing trees, plants and rocks. I loved to go minerals hunting too. I would cherish the crystals I found like a very precious treasure! By growing in such surroundings, I learnt to look at Nature differently, and it has had a significant impact on my work. I feel very closely linked to Nature and I believe people can see this through my jewellery.

Ornella Iannuzzi A l'Ere Glaciere
Ornella Iannuzzi Earrings A l'Ere Glaciaire
Why did you decide to attend the RCA after learning the technical aspects of jewellery making in France, and what did your various studies teach you?
I decided to come to the RCA to do a Master and explore my creativity as France is still a bit restricted in this area. The weight of the tradition is so powerful in France that it leaves very little space for thinking “out of the box”. UK is the right place for this. So I have the best of both eductational systems in the end : The technical skills and high quality craftsmanship from France and daring creativity and originality from UK!

Ornella Iannuzzi Earrings Cage Rock It ! 18KY
Ornella Iannuzzi Rock It ! cage pendant
How did you develop the idea for your caged opal pieces, showcased at London Fashion Week?
I have been working with opal spheres for few years now, including them in various collections, and when I came with my new collection based on the dodecahedron crystallisation, it occured to me that the sphere should be inside the dodecahedron, free to move, and the cage came to my mind consequently.

Ornella-Iannuzzi-Exceptionnelle-Emeraude-ring
Ornella Iannuzzi Cuff l'Exceptionnelle Emeraude
What are your favourite gemstones and metals to work with and why?
Opals for sure! I discovered the Ethiopian opals back in 2009 and it was LOVE at first sight! As mentioned, I have included them in all my collection since then and I even created a whole collection based on them in 2010: Lucy in Wonderland inspired by my trip to Ethiopia to source the rough stones. I have detailed my journey and the inspiration behind each pieces on my Facebook page, in the photo albums section here. And I also love emerald crystals. Then I love yellow and rose gold for their warm colours and they are such great metal to work with, although rose gold is a bit more challenging then yellow…

Ornella Iannuzzi Ring 2 crystals Rock It !
Who commissions your bespoke pieces?
Collectors, art amateurs, business men and women, and mostly ladies who like to stand out in the crowd and make a statement.

Ornella Iannuzzi Cufflinks Rock It!
Ornella Iannuzzi Rock It ! studs
What prompted the move from fine art jewellery into pret-a-porter ranges, and what have been the challenges in translating your luxe designs into everyday wearable pieces at a lower price point?
My Fine Art Jewellery is more special occasion wear and I sell them only direct. As I wanted to start exporting, I have launched my Prêt-à-Porter collections which came also because I wanted to create some jewellery for daily wear, and more affordable too. Adapting my style to a commercial range was a challenge because I am used to make bold and unique pieces, not production work. So I had to think differently when designing. I also had to change my business model in order to enter the trade market and this was a bit of a challenge too since it involved re-branding and review my strategies.

Ornella-Iannuzzi The Uprising ring
You recently won two Gold Awards at the ‘Jewellery Oscars’ – what piece attracted this accolade and how did you get chosen for the awards?
My latest Fine Art Jewellery ring The Uprising (above) – made in 18k rose gold, diamonds and pearls. I enter the piece to the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Awards and the judges made their decision according to the categories criterias.

Marvel at more of Ornella Iannuzzi‘s creations on her website here.

Categories ,Dodecahedron, ,french, ,Gold Award, ,Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Awards, ,interview, ,Iris van Gelder, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery Oscars, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy in Wonderland, ,Ornella Iannuzzi, ,Pret-a-porter, ,rca, ,Rock It!, ,Rock Vault, ,Royal College of Art, ,The Uprising

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Amelia’s Magazine | Plastic Seconds creates a wall for Supermarket Sarah

Plastic_Seconds_wall
It’s no secret that I am a big fan of Maria Papadimitriou‘s work. Not only does she produce many wonderful collaged illustrations for Amelia’s Magazine but she also creates the most brilliant recycled jewellery under the Plastic Seconds moniker. It’s not only bold and clever but also fully sustainable, adiposity so I am really happy that people are starting to take notice. Right now she has a wall with Supermarket Sarah, ask where you can buy some beautiful bespoke pieces. I urge you to check it out.

Plastic Seconds Clownish HeadpiecePlastic Seconds Pearls and Bottlenecks Necklace

How did you decide what to make for Supermarket Sarah?
It is absolutely great that Supermarket Sarah often feature one-off items with a lot of personality, which one would perhaps wear to be different or keep as a special fashion object – a few of the gorgeous items they sell come from prop styling and photo shoots. So I wanted most of the Plastic Seconds items for the Supermarket Sarah website to be both unique and larger or more extreme in a fashion sense.

Plastic Seconds British Lids PendantPlastic Seconds Pen Lids Necklace

Can you describe what some of the Plastic Seconds pieces are made from and how you source the materials?
I use a lot of lids – from plastic bottles, glass jars, and other containers. I also love to use one-off finds like the cloakroom tags or the large jigsaw puzzle pieces and other bits from objects that we usually throw away, but their shape and colour is so lovely and fun, especially when used in an unexpected context – examples of this are the pen lids and the sushi soy sauce containers. I have slowly been collecting materials for a few years now from the recycling boxes of the flats I have been living in – and still do. At the moment one of my other main sources is my part-time job where they let me have a Plastic Seconds collection box in the kitchen and where colleagues bring me bags of their collected finds quite regularly – also it is a public space with a lot of visitors and I often do table rounds collecting bottle neck rings from abandoned bottles. Another source is my family in Greece who keep all sorts of bits they can’t recycle in my old desk drawers for me – and I do love sushi…

Plastic Seconds Sushi NecklacePlastic Seconds Plug Necklace

What piece was the most fun to make and why?
They were all quite fun, but as I said above I really enjoyed making the bigger pieces for Supermarket Sarah – like the headpieces – because I really admire people who have a strong sense of personal style or are playful with dressing up and secretly constantly hope people wore colourful big things on all occasions! Also I find it very satisfying that simple, geometric, striking pieces can be made from readily available forms. Other items that were really fun were the ones which were created by combining two different lids by snapping them into each other without using other means to keep them together – I can spend quite a lot of time trying different combinations to see which ones will fit perfectly! And finally pieces that are very satisfying to make are the ones like the big multicharm necklace made out of a thick found chain, discarded key rings collected over some time and ring pulls from soy milk cartons, because every single element – even the clasp –  is a found object and so they are very special.

Plastic Seconds Juggling Balls NecklacePlastic Seconds Make Up Brush Pendant

What next?
I would like to make some even bigger, more complex pieces and perhaps find a way to source materials in a more organised way and a way that might have a wider positive impact. In terms of little things coming up, next week I am taking part in the filming of a new pilot show called Green Screen that introduces environmental thinking in a different light at the National Film and Television School, I am hopefully opening within June my ASOS marketplace boutique in the ethical boutiques section – next to 123 and Goodone! – and in July 29-31st I will be in the Upcycled Market section, curated by the Eco Design Fair, which is part of the Vintage Weekend at the Southbank Centre!

Plastic Seconds Large Lids Headpiece

Maria caught me marvelling at one of her recycled lid pendants at my ACOFI Book Tour evening at Tatty Devine a few weeks ago and has kindly offered to make me a pendant out of my old lids, so I’m busy collecting the most exciting ones. Turning *rubbish* into desirable jewellery, it doesn’t get much better than this!

Categories ,123, ,ASOS, ,Eco Design Fair, ,Ecodesign Fair, ,goodone, ,jewellery, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,National Film and Television School, ,Plastic Seconds, ,recycled, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Southbank centre, ,Upcycled

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