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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

Fyodor Golan: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Fyodor Golan presented Welcome to the Machine in the newly created Embankment Galleries showspace on Friday 17th February 2012. Featuring lots of skater skirts and detailed embellishments inspired by Russian life.

Written by Amelia Gregory

Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Faye West
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Fyodor Golan were first to show in the newly created Embankment Galleries showspace, a long thin strip in Somerset House that previously housed the stands and necessitates registering at the front desk in order to get to. A year ago I was most taken by Fyodor Golan‘s first catwalk show at Fashion Scout, and last season they were deserving winners of the Fashion Fringe competition, so I was eager to see what these fine art graduates would do next.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte.

Welcome to the Machine was inspired by Russian peasantry and aristocratic fashions… marrying tribal styles with extravagant embellishments to great effect. Stepping through a neon pink doorway models wore skater skirted dresses in beetle inspired metallic copper and green, heavy nose rings courtesy of designer Alexandra Druzhinin hanging over their mouths. Insects crawled across the waists of dresses, and the curving lines of their wings were echoed in the finely swept hair slicked to brows. At Fyodor Golan buns were tightly woven into peasant plaits.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte.

These clothes are not for the faint hearted – there were heavy quilted metallic textures and pleated furls, followed by light as a feather lambswool or swinging tasselled skirts in wintery white. Punchy red provided dazzling relief from darker hues in the form of skater dresses, and my favourite look (in red) featured a sheer bodice with narrow strips of pleating curled over the bosom and shoulders.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
The finale was preceded by a model who was somewhat inexplicably covered entirely in emerald green glitter – perhaps a reference to beetles too far… This was followed by a stunning pearlised white showpiece, with a weighty golden crown shrouded in netting that also covered the face.

Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Marta Madaiva Illustrations
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Marta Madaiva Illustrations.

Once again Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman have proved themselves a fashionable proposition to be reckoned with, and I look forward to seeing how their artisanal creativity develops with each new season.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

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