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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Emilio de la Morena (by Amelia)

Emilio de la Morena showed an elegant collection that featured the most wonderful use of this seasons colour: luscious delicious brightest red. At the BFC tent on Tuesday 22nd February.

Written by Amelia Gregory

Emilio de la Morena by Sandra Contreras
Emilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

Emilio de la Morena really took this season’s colour to heart, and then some. His sleekly elegant aesthetic was emphasised by models with loosely scraped back long hair and tomato red lips, their svelte calves encased in mid length dresses with a slight lingerie flavour in the tight ridging, dangling ribbons and sheer panels – proof that sexy doesn’t have to mean revealing. Each individual panel was painstakingly stitched together to create a grid-like design, sometimes bordered with spaghetti thin leather tubing, and then with tiny beads.

Emilio de la Morena by Lisa Stannard
Emilio de la Morena by Lisa Stannard.

Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Emilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

Delightful reds and orange were counter-balanced with the introduction of pale pink, ivory and plum. Swirling zig-zag ribbon details appeared in organza bib panels that layered over calf length skirts. Severe black wool suits were broken with bands of silvery lurex and metallic red threads. Shoes by Charlotte Olympia were particularly delicious: suede platforms tied tightly with silky ribbons, very high and very red.

Emilio de la Morena by Lisa Stannard
Emilio de la Morena by Lisa Stannard.

Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Emilio de la Morena by Lisa Stannard
Emilio de la Morena by Lisa Stannard.

Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Emilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras.

The collection was partly inspired by the tragic photos of Francesca Woodman, who killed herself at the age of 22, but also by the stoic elegance of Victorian ladies on film, which was most revealed in the necks, which were almost ubiquitously high and ruffled.

Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Joana FariaEmilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Emilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

I profiled Emilio de la Morena in issue 08 of Amelia’s Magazine (still available here) many years ago, and this collection reminded me exactly why I had been attracted to him in the first place: he makes beautiful, sexy and wearable clothes with an elegant hand-crafted twist. This was an absolutely stunning collection. If only I were tall and graceful enough to wear such creations myself.

Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryEmilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Emilio de la Morena LFW A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Emilio de la Morena A/W 2011 by Sandra Contreras
Emilio de la Morena by Sandra Contreras.

You can see more of Lisa Stannard and Joana Faria’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion, and read Helen Martin’s rather more eloquent review of this show here.

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