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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

Fyodor Golan: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Fyodor Golan worked with cult brand Smiley to produce a stunning new A/W 2013 couture collection, showcased at The Savoy Hotel on Friday 15th February 2013.

Written by Amelia Gregory

Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Jacqueline Valencia
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Jacqueline Valencia.

This season design duo Fyodor Golan put on a circular catwalk show in a stately ballroom of The Savoy Hotel. It was a typically clever collection that combined unusual references and brilliant technical talent with a dose of their inimitable wit.

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Models wore dark lips and simple slicked back hair to showcase a series elegant leather two piece suits and gorgeous baroque dresses befitting the ornate venue, austere throat ties the only nod to jewellery. Gothic black shapes appeared like the imprint of strange creatures on the creamy silk opening dress, and across the peplum of a maxi skirt: paired with a sheer top to ensure a good photo opportunity. Many garments featured wings of fabric that fanned out in front of the chest like the frills found on exotic lizards. A sparkling black mini coat dress with big sleeves was cinched in with a wide waisted belt to give an alternative curvaceous silhouette.

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Gaarte.
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

It took until I viewed one of the illustrations I commissioned from photos to realise that Fyodor Golan had cleverly adapted the iconic Smiley face logo for their golden couture minidress, so subtle was the use, with eyes and mouth melding perfectly into a circular design that fell flatteringly around the hips. Smiley may not have been an obvious choice of brand for the designers to work with but as they explain in their press release ‘Music, like fashion, is an expressive form of creativity. It frees the mind and sets a tone.‘ The familiar icon also appeared embossed onto a big collared leather dress suit, and on giant neon badges that were gifted to front row attendees.

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

As the show progressed the colours took a fiery turn, with a series of pleated and folded silk dresses in syrupy orange and bright red amongst my favourite looks. One knee length number featured wrist grazing sleeves and bare shoulders, pleats slit from collarbone to waist and up to the crotch; it was a perfect example of how demure and sexy work best when they exist side by side.

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Interspersed with these was an unusual toffee coloured chequerboard dress with bulging sleeves and another frilled mini dress bearing a striking blue floral pattern that was echoed on a giant decorated plastic plate worn over the face – a cross between a collapsed wide brimmed hat and a gimp mask. It may have seemed an oddly out of place interlude to those unfamiliar with Fydor Golan‘s idiosyncratic catwalk shows, but remember this is the couple who sent out a woman entirely covered in green glitter a few seasons ago. And of course it made for the second great photo opportunity that all catwalk photographers live for (myself included).

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
There were a couple of points where the collection seemed to take off on a wild tangent (a burnt orange short sleeve knit paired with a glossy skirt seemed somewhat out of place in such glamourous company) but overall this confirmed Fyodor Golan as a talent to watch.

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