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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Michael Van Der Ham

Dutch designer Michael Van Der Ham shows his A/W 2011 collection at Billingsgate, complete with champagne and risotto starters. Yum. Illustration by Artist Andrea!

Written by Jemma Crow

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Those in the business know that I took quite a few years off from attending the shows, medicine but I’ve been gradually creeping back into LFW and this season Amelia’s Magazine really has been out in force. I’ve attended a record number of catwalk shows and presentations, capsule leaving me very little time to actually write or edit photos and commission illustrations. Meanwhile, my wonderful team of contributors have been working their collective butt off. With the result that this is our third blog post about Paul Costelloe… and only my first. And it’s a WEEK since the shows started. Tut tut.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker
Antonia-Parker-A-W-2011-Paul-Costelloe-A
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Last season Paul really cemented his comeback with a well received opener to S/S LFW – which would explain why this show was so much better attended than the last… good words can spread like wildfire in fashion land. This season he did it again, despite rumours swirling around on the day that the label went into receivership recently – a quick google search revealing that a new backer in the form of Calvelex was unveiled on the same day of his A/W show. This time it was not his sons but his towering opera singing red-haired daughter that Paul sent down the catwalk. Does he have anymore offspring squirrelled around somewhere? If not, who will he call on to do the familial duties next season?!

Paul Costelloe A-W 2011-daughter Jessica
Paul’s daughter Jessica opened the show. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Once Amazonian daughter Jessica had left with a cocky smile it was down to business as four pink pyramid-haired ladies strode onto the catwalk en masse, resplendent in emerald and fern green boucle tweed and textured metallic silks swinging coat dresses.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by jenny robins
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

The collection swiftly moved through a spectrum of mustards, oranges and red checks on big collared dresses, boxy crop jackets and mini skater skirts, interspersed by the odd splash of luxurious menswear – my favourite being a sumptuous deep red velvet jacket. Swing shapes, splashy flower prints, cowl necks and big collars were the order of the day. Extremely delish, and very more-ish.

LFW A-W 2011-Paul Costelloe family

I managed to sneak a quick photo of Paul Costelloe as he was leaving Somerset House with his massive brood, Paul himself resplendent in a pair of sparkling white pumps.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Those in the business know that I took quite a few years off from attending the shows, medicine but I’ve been gradually creeping back into LFW and this season Amelia’s Magazine really has been out in force. I’ve attended a record number of catwalk shows and presentations, shop leaving me very little time to actually write or edit photos and commission illustrations. Meanwhile, view my wonderful team of contributors have been working their collective butt off. With the result that this is our third blog post about Paul Costelloe… and only my first. And it’s a WEEK since the shows started. Tut tut.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker
Antonia-Parker-A-W-2011-Paul-Costelloe-A
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Last season Paul really cemented his comeback with a well received opener to S/S LFW – which would explain why this show was so much better attended than the last… good words can spread like wildfire in fashion land. This season he did it again, despite rumours swirling around on the day that the label went into receivership recently – a quick google search revealing that a new backer in the form of Calvelex was unveiled on the same day of his A/W show. This time it was not his sons but his towering opera singing red-haired daughter that Paul sent down the catwalk. Does he have anymore offspring squirrelled around somewhere? If not, who will he call on to do the familial duties next season?!

Paul Costelloe A-W 2011-daughter Jessica
Paul’s daughter Jessica opened the show. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Once Amazonian daughter Jessica had left with a cocky smile it was down to business as four pink pyramid-haired ladies strode onto the catwalk en masse, resplendent in emerald and fern green boucle tweed and textured metallic silks swinging coat dresses.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by jenny robins
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

The collection swiftly moved through a spectrum of mustards, oranges and red checks on big collared dresses, boxy crop jackets and mini skater skirts, interspersed by the odd splash of luxurious menswear – my favourite being a sumptuous deep red velvet jacket. Swing shapes, splashy flower prints, cowl necks and big collars were the order of the day. Extremely delish, and very more-ish.

LFW A-W 2011-Paul Costelloe family

I managed to sneak a quick photo of Paul Costelloe as he was leaving Somerset House with his massive brood, Paul himself resplendent in a pair of sparkling white pumps.
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more of Antonia Parker and Jenny Robins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Those in the business know that I took quite a few years off from attending the shows, thumb but I’ve been gradually creeping back into LFW and this season Amelia’s Magazine really has been out in force. I’ve attended a record number of catwalk shows and presentations, no rx leaving me very little time to actually write or edit photos and commission illustrations. Meanwhile, rx my wonderful team of contributors have been working their collective butt off. With the result that this is our third blog post about Paul Costelloe… and only my first. And it’s a WEEK since the shows started. Tut tut.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker
Antonia-Parker-A-W-2011-Paul-Costelloe-A
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Last season Paul really cemented his comeback with a well received opener to S/S LFW – which would explain why this show was so much better attended than the last… good words can spread like wildfire in fashion land. This season he did it again, despite rumours swirling around on the day that the label went into receivership recently – a quick google search revealing that a new backer in the form of Calvelex was unveiled on the same day of his A/W show. This time it was not his sons but his towering opera singing red-haired daughter that Paul sent down the catwalk. Does he have anymore offspring squirrelled around somewhere? If not, who will he call on to do the familial duties next season?!

Paul Costelloe A-W 2011-daughter Jessica
Paul’s daughter Jessica opened the show. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Once Amazonian daughter Jessica had left with a cocky smile it was down to business as four pink pyramid-haired ladies strode onto the catwalk en masse, resplendent in emerald and fern green boucle tweed and textured metallic silks swinging coat dresses.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by jenny robins
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

The collection swiftly moved through a spectrum of mustards, oranges and red checks on big collared dresses, boxy crop jackets and mini skater skirts, interspersed by the odd splash of luxurious menswear – my favourite being a sumptuous deep red velvet jacket. Swing shapes, splashy flower prints, cowl necks and big collars were the order of the day. Extremely delish, and very more-ish.

LFW A-W 2011-Paul Costelloe family

I managed to sneak a quick photo of Paul Costelloe as he was leaving Somerset House with his massive brood, Paul himself resplendent in a pair of sparkling white pumps.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Read Matt Bramford’s review of the show here, and Jemma Crow’s review here. You can see more of Antonia Parker and Jenny Robins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Those in the business know that I took quite a few years off from attending the shows, thumb but I’ve been gradually creeping back into LFW and this season Amelia’s Magazine really has been out in force. I’ve attended a record number of catwalk shows and presentations, sales leaving me very little time to actually write or edit photos and commission illustrations. Meanwhile, thumb my wonderful team of contributors have been working their collective butt off. With the result that this is our third blog post about Paul Costelloe… and only my first. And it’s a WEEK since the shows started. Tut tut.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker
Antonia-Parker-A-W-2011-Paul-Costelloe-A
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Last season Paul really cemented his comeback with a well received opener to S/S LFW – which would explain why this show seemed so much better attended than the last… good words can spread like wildfire in fashion land. This season he did it again, despite rumours swirling around on the day that the label went into receivership recently – a quick google search revealing that a new backer in the form of Calvelex was unveiled on the same day of his A/W show. This time it was not his sons but his towering opera singing red-haired daughter that Paul sent down the catwalk. Does he have anymore offspring squirrelled around somewhere? If not, who will he call on to do the familial duties next season?!

Paul Costelloe A-W 2011-daughter Jessica
Paul’s daughter Jessica opened the show. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Once Amazonian daughter Jessica had left with a cocky smile it was down to business as four pink pyramid-haired ladies strode onto the catwalk en masse, resplendent in emerald and fern green boucle tweed and textured metallic silks swinging coat dresses.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by jenny robins
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

The collection swiftly moved through a spectrum of mustards, oranges and red checks on big collared dresses, boxy crop jackets and mini skater skirts, interspersed by the odd splash of luxurious menswear – my favourite being a sumptuous deep red velvet jacket. Swing shapes, splashy flower prints, cowl necks and big collars were the order of the day. Extremely delish, and very more-ish.

LFW A-W 2011-Paul Costelloe family

I managed to sneak a quick photo of Paul Costelloe as he was leaving Somerset House with his massive brood, Paul himself resplendent in a pair of sparkling white pumps.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Read Matt Bramford’s review of the show here, and Jemma Crow’s review here. You can see more of Antonia Parker and Jenny Robins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Those in the business know that I took quite a few years off from attending the shows, viagra dosage but I’ve been gradually creeping back into LFW and this season Amelia’s Magazine really has been out in force. I’ve attended a record number of catwalk shows and presentations, find leaving me very little time to actually write or edit photos and commission illustrations. Meanwhile, my wonderful team of contributors have been working their collective butt off. With the result that this is our third blog post about Paul Costelloe… and only my first. And it’s a WEEK since the shows started. Tut tut.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker
Antonia-Parker-A-W-2011-Paul-Costelloe-A
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Last season Paul really cemented his comeback with a well received opener to S/S LFW – which would explain why this show seemed so much better attended than the last… good words can spread like wildfire in fashion land. This season he did it again, despite rumours swirling around on the day that the label went into receivership recently – a quick google search revealing that a new backer in the form of Calvelex was unveiled on the same day of his A/W show. This time it was not his sons but his towering opera singing red-haired daughter that Paul sent down the catwalk. Does he have anymore offspring squirrelled around somewhere? If not, who will he call on to do the familial duties next season?!

Paul Costelloe A-W 2011-daughter Jessica
Paul’s daughter Jessica opened the show. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Once Amazonian daughter Jessica had left with a cocky smile it was down to business as four pink pyramid-haired ladies strode onto the catwalk en masse, resplendent in emerald and fern green boucle tweed and textured metallic silks swinging coat dresses.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by jenny robins
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

The collection swiftly moved through a spectrum of mustards, oranges and red checks on big collared dresses, boxy crop jackets and mini skater skirts, interspersed by the odd splash of luxurious menswear – my favourite being a sumptuous deep red velvet jacket. Swing shapes, splashy flower prints, cowl necks and big collars were the order of the day. Extremely delish, and very more-ish.

LFW A-W 2011-Paul Costelloe family

I managed to sneak a quick photo of Paul Costelloe as he was leaving Somerset House with his massive brood, Paul himself resplendent in a pair of sparkling white pumps.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Read Matt Bramford’s review of the show here, and Jemma Crow’s review here. You can see more of Antonia Parker and Jenny Robins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Those in the business know that I took quite a few years off from attending the shows, but I’ve been gradually creeping back into LFW and this season Amelia’s Magazine really has been out in force. I’ve attended a record number of catwalk shows and presentations, order leaving me very little time to actually write or edit photos and commission illustrations. Meanwhile, my wonderful team of contributors have been working their collective butt off. With the result that this is our third blog post about Paul Costelloe… and only my first. And it’s a WEEK since the shows started. Tut tut.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker
Antonia-Parker-A-W-2011-Paul-Costelloe-A
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Last season Paul really cemented his comeback with a well received opener to S/S LFW – which would explain why this show seemed so much better attended than the last… good words can spread like wildfire in fashion land. This season he did it again, despite rumours swirling around on the day that the label went into receivership recently – a quick google search revealing that a new backer in the form of Calvelex was unveiled on the same day of his A/W show. This time it was not his sons but his towering opera singing flame-haired daughter that Paul sent down the catwalk. Does he have anymore offspring squirrelled around somewhere? If not, who the hell will do the familial duty next season?

Paul Costelloe A-W 2011-daughter Jessica
Paul’s daughter Jessica opened the show. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Once Amazonian daughter Jessica had left centre stage with a cocky little smile it was down to business as four pink pyramid-haired ladies strode onto the catwalk en masse, resplendent in emerald and fern green boucle tweed and textured metallic silks swinging coat dresses.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by jenny robins
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

The collection swiftly moved through a spectrum of mustards, oranges and red checks on big collared dresses, boxy crop jackets and mini skater skirts, interspersed by the odd splash of luxurious menswear – my favourite being a sumptuous deep red velvet jacket. Swing shapes, splashy flower prints, cowl necks and big collars were the order of the day. Extremely delish, and very more-ish.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.LFW A-W 2011-Paul Costelloe family
I managed to sneak a quick photo of Paul Costelloe as he was leaving Somerset House with his massive brood, Paul himself resplendent in a pair of sparkling white pumps.

Read Matt Bramford’s review of the show here, and Jemma Crow’s review here. You can see more of Antonia Parker and Jenny Robins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Those in the business know that I took quite a few years off from attending the shows, prostate but I’ve been gradually creeping back into LFW and this season Amelia’s Magazine really has been out in force. I’ve attended a record number of catwalk shows and presentations, tadalafil leaving me very little time to actually write or edit photos and commission illustrations. Meanwhile, recipe my wonderful team of contributors have been working their collective butt off. With the result that this is our third blog post about Paul Costelloe… and only my first. And it’s a WEEK since the shows started. Tut tut.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker
Antonia-Parker-A-W-2011-Paul-Costelloe-A
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

Last season Paul really cemented his comeback with a well received opener to S/S LFW – which would explain why this show seemed so much better attended than the last… good words can spread like wildfire in fashion land. This season he did it again, despite rumours swirling around on the day that the label went into receivership recently – a quick google search revealing that a new backer in the form of Calvelex was unveiled on the same day of his A/W show. This time it was not his sons but his towering opera singing flame-haired daughter that Paul sent down the catwalk. Does he have anymore offspring squirrelled around somewhere? If not, who the hell will do the familial duty next season?

Paul Costelloe A-W 2011-daughter Jessica
Paul’s daughter Jessica opened the show. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Once Amazonian daughter Jessica had left centre stage with a cocky little smile it was down to business as four pink pyramid-haired ladies strode onto the catwalk en masse, resplendent in emerald and fern green boucle tweed and textured metallic silks swinging coat dresses.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by jenny robins
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

The collection swiftly moved through a spectrum of mustards, oranges and red checks on big collared dresses, boxy crop jackets and mini skater skirts, interspersed by the odd splash of luxurious menswear – my favourite being a sumptuous deep red velvet jacket. Swing shapes, splashy flower prints, cowl necks and big collars were the order of the day. Extremely delish, and very more-ish.

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe A/W 2011 by Amelia Gregory

Paul Costelloe A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.LFW A-W 2011-Paul Costelloe family
I managed to sneak a quick photo of Paul Costelloe as he was leaving Somerset House with his massive brood; Paul resplendent in a pair of sparkling new white pumps.

Read Matt Bramford’s review of the show here, and Jemma Crow’s review here. You can see more of Antonia Parker and Jenny Robins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

I spent London Fashion Week staying at my parent’s house. My childhood home with a new kitchen, buy information pills dog ‘brother’, central heating that works and a bath. I’m not going to lie, I enjoyed having my porridge made in the morning. Maple syrup on the side, and a herbal tea, packed lunch filled with snacks. That’s right, I lapped it up. Although Charlie is an excellent boy/man, there is nothing quite like the mother. However they live a few miles outside of Brighton, in a village. Thus the trek to London, the long days and write ups – intense. All because I LOVE it. I deliberated with coming to London for ONE show. But I have in my mind, ‘NO HELS! SAY NOT TO NOTHING!’ at all times. I’m following my writing dream after all. This causes me great pleasures and enormous pains. So, of course, one show or not, I was on that train to London Victoria. And am I glad I made the effort for Fashion Mode?

YES.

Three shows; three excellent shows. I’m going to split Fashion Mode into three posts, because each designer deserves the love. So we will start with Floriet Jayet. Initially I was slightly terrified and in awe of the models coming out. Nothing different to every show you might say. But, this was different, because the models had metal contraptions of their heads that made them look like a cross between special aliens and orthodontic patients. Four strips of silver metal came over their heads from the back, to touch their faces, with an enormous roller at the back. After my initial fear, I decided that they looked cool, as inevitably happens at LFW. See: ‘Urg… ahhh.. yah, I totally get that now. I want one.’ Although I’m not sure I would wear one of these creations, I would certainly consider wearing the dresses, which the metal complimented perfectly. Wiggle space lady, that’s what you are. With lasers from your eyes and hips.

Florian Jayet is a graduate in Biology which explains his science appreciative designs. The dresses featured strong shoulders, midi length skirts and padded fabrics. The shape of the woman is celebrated and appreciated as if it is meant to be seen and not covered – raw biology. The models remind me of those in Huxley’s; Brave New World. Perfect, angular and although feminine, are minus the romanticism and emotional sentimentality, that are sometimes conjured by designers. In a sense Jayet’s pieces are actually a mix of old and our vision of future ideologies. The restricted, but beautiful shapes of the 40s have been fused with modern and excessive details; i.e. the shoulders. The contemporary complimenting the past, and particularly French houses; Chanel and Dior. This makes for a very sophisticated and composed look. It made me want to look closer, at every detail, and know more. As opposed to held within the ruffles, the corset and the red heels, everything seemed so wrapped up, with the story inside. It was whimsical in its own way, but also impenetrable. These outfits are those that I would hope to find in the corner of a cafe in Paris, smoking, mysterious, alone – with a steely, but far away look.

I adored the padding details and the shrug wraps. The space lady, dressed for dinner. The long dresses had a Japanese feel to them, geisha like and graceful. Florian Jayet said that the focus is to create; ‘a fetish wardrobe, pieces that a woman can keep forever, bringing them out on special occasions when she needs to be propelled into confidence and strength.’ It’s fair to say that you would feel empowered wearing Jayet’s pieces. The creams and blacks, shoulders, padding and midi length skirts would have me stomping and demanding like a glossy magazine Editor with somewhere to be. However at the moment it’s more probable I would be in the cafe, with a cigarette and eyes reliving or hoping for something. With an unreadable face, it’s unclear as to whether that may or may not, or will ever happen.


Illustration by Artist Andrea

Well well well Michael Van Der Ham, online what a stunningly beautiful show you have. Velvet and sumptuous jewel colours are fast becoming the only thing to be seen in for A/W 2011 and Van Der Ham was no exception. Being his third season, approved the Dutch designer is known for his collaging of fabrics and this show, in the arched Topshop venue in Old Billingsgate, didn’t disappoint. And it was a first for the designer to show outerwear at one of his shows. Exciting times to come.

So the show opener was a vivid red velvet dress; think asymmetric to the extreme. With one sleeve cut long and one bare shoulder, the image was mirrored in the hemline with (you guessed it) one side short and one side longer. The cut detailing of the pieces was really well thought out and only showed how prolific a designer Van Der Ham will become.


Illustration by Artist Andrea

Although this was a collection mostly about the dresses (isn’t it always), there was a distinct presence of trousers. Now this season does seem to be all about the lady but there’s a small section of wider leg trousers coming through in sensual evening fabrics. Van Der Ham showed his in silky ochres and burnt oranges but the more stand out pieces were the fringed ballet pink trousers; delicious and the mad piece of the collection.

I just want to talk about the shoes for a second too. Not that they’re actually part of the designer’s collection but they complimented the pieces so well they’re already on my wish list. And they’re simply a pair of black suede wedge shoe boots but they made the legs look super long (not that they needed to) so a great choice to team with the dresses.

Showing a slightly more muted side the second half of the collection was a montage of (again) ballet pink chiffon skirts, black boiled wool jackets and silky blouses. The outerwear and the knits were the new foray for Van Der Ham which suited him well, definitely something to continue for the seasons to come.

I know I’ve said this before (only sparingly but still….) but this was one of my favourite collections by far this season. Everybody’s got to love a bit of velvet in fashion and when it’s dressed in the sumptuous colours that Michael Van Der Ham showed. And if its good enough for all of Team Guardian and Team Elle (who waltzed straight into the venue) then its good enough for me.

See more of Artist Andrea’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

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