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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

London Fashion Week A/W10 Catwalk Review – Anne-Sofie Back

Anne-Sofie Back returns with her own vision of grey hued stripper avatars and trailing tulle

Written by Sabrina Morrison

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. So far so very extravagant. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, website like this approved they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime!

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, page but then I was recognised the instant I arrived in the hall which is always slightly unnerving. Whilst the show took forever to start, health Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I mention ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Of course I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit hypocritical in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” a refrain that I sing around the camp fire with friends.

I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

The clothes? Well I was going to be quite rude about them, but then I met the PR who invited me, and read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. And then I met the PR again in the queue for a show the next day, and this time was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner. Aiee!! So I will be a little nicer.

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. So far so very extravagant. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, purchase they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime!

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, more about but then I was recognised the instant I arrived in the hall which is always slightly unnerving. Whilst the show took forever to start, rx Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I mention ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Of course I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit hypocritical in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” a refrain that I sing around the camp fire with friends.

I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

The clothes? Well I was going to be quite rude about them, but then I met the PR who invited me, and read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. And then I met the PR again in the queue for a show the next day, and this time was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner. Aiee!! So I will be a little nicer.

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. So far so very extravagant. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, pilule they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime!

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, cure but then I was recognised the instant I arrived in the hall which is always slightly unnerving. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I mention ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Of course I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit hypocritical in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” a refrain that I sing around the camp fire with friends.

I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

The clothes? Well I was going to be quite rude about them, but then I met the PR who invited me, and read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. And then I met the PR again in the queue for a show the next day, and this time was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner. Aiee!! So I will be a little nicer.

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Video games aren’t just a boy’s toy, sildenafil even if all the girls in them seem to end up looking like one. Anne-Sofie Back’s A/W10 collection drew inspiration from her own hours logged in as an unsuccessful stripper in alternative online world “Second Life”. Back, page whose inspiration often comes from pop culture and body image issues translated what she saw as a conformity of ideals as most players chose to customize their avatars into “page 3 models and uninspired versions of reality TV contestants”.

Anne-Sofie Back A/W10 Illustration by katie Harnett
Anne-Sofie Back A/W10 Illustration by Katie Harnett

What we got were jeans with the waist cutout topped with super cropped matching jean jackets sprouting gashes of pink and white tulle and cutout bodystockings. Her avatar seems to have been the high street customizing type, a cross between avant garde and russian bride.
In the urban basement of The Flower Cellars, shouting punk music turned pop and the cloudy cement haze was the perfect canvas for Anne-Sofie Back’s typically cool color palette. Colorless greys gave way to lavender leathers in one very wantable boxy cropped motorcycle jacket.

cutout waistbands and cropped jean tops with tulle. apparently not for everyone, check out the expressions on the faces in the crowd.
Cutout waistbands and cropped jean tops with tulle. apparently not for everyone, check out the expressions on the faces in the crowd

This is Anne Sofie back’s 5th year showing and the designer was recently appointed creative director of Cheap Monday after taking a year off and moving back to her native Sweden to start a family. Taking cues from hot or not columns and other pop culture fodder Back once sent models down the runway with the black pen markings of cosmetic surgery and others with bulging breast pockets and wrapped in swollen tubes.

black slashed bodystocking with grey wing armature
Black slashed bodystocking with grey wing armature

But this collection’s body image issue took form as muscle shirts. In devore jersey paired with dyed denim and again in tulle applique tracing abs and pec and often trailing lengths if the gauzy material. The tulle skirts and leggings had some issues with unflattering placement at times with cones of the stuff pouring out of butt cheeks and crotches.

White tulle sprouts from the most unlikely places
White tulle sprouts from the most unlikely places

There’s an undeniably home made attitude to her collection but where last Fall was helped along with tailored trousers and knit dresses this collection veered into gauzy georgette skirts and cutout body stockings. Only one actual coat came down the runway but in its terry cloth texture, belted volume and eggshell color it had the unfortunate effect of looking like it should be hanging on a peg in the bathroom.

one coat in the collection, although white terry cloth may not have been the best fabric choice
one coat in the collection, although white terry cloth may not have been the best fabric choice

At times her textural melange was truly beautiful. A laddered-effect boucle wool in thunderstorm colors with bits of lurex reappeared several times as did a fantastic jaquard white jumper. A cropped motorcycle jacket in buttery thin matte leather was exceedingly wantable and her signature batwing sleeves were beautifully balanced with a button up georgette shirt.

Gauze shirts with laddering boucle trousers
Gauze shirts with laddering boucle trousers

This may not be a collection whose pieces are immediately absorbed into your closet but Anne Sofie Back’s collections continue to question the dubious world we are slowly creating around us and in moments of inspired design has managed to subvert it into something quite beautiful.

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