All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Opposite me on the front row the great and the good of sustainable fashion gathered for the opening show at the Freemasons’ Hall: Nicola Woods of Beautiful Soul, Safia Minney of People Tree, Joe Oliver of Bash. It could only be Prophetik.
Prophetik by Chris Morris.
A hooded girl stood bathed in the glow of the spotlight, gazing demurely into the distance as a series of models took to the grassy turf of the catwalk in a collection of beautiful dip dyed gowns and bloomers made from sustainable fabrics. All were dyed with natural plant and earth based dyes made from the likes of indigo, madder root, marigold and cochineal. The men followed in sweet little waistcoats decorated with antique buttons, ruffled shirts and jaunty neckerchiefs.
This was a far more coherent collection than last season’s, and I liked it very much this time around. You’ve got to admire Jeff Garner‘s dedication to sustainability – which undoubtedly goes above and beyond the average fashion designer… but I still feel somewhat uncomfortable that this is all we have in terms of a radical rethinking of fashion. Once again we were given copious gifts; a glass bangle made from a bottle by Smart Glass (love their chandeliers!), some products by Burt’s Bees, seeds, hand balm from Pat&Rub (quite happy about all that), and an Envirosax bag “Encourage impulse purchases by placing the bags as close to the register as possible.” Much as I love them my house is going under in a sea of fabric bags right now – how many more do we need before they themselves become a problem?
Prophetik by Chris Morris.
We were also given an iphone case made in association with Griffin, admirably made by artisans in Jeff’s native Tennessee, but from “reclaimed leather, taken as byproduct from existing manufacturing processes and upcycled for use in the case.” Really?? And how is a lifestyle that gleefully spans two continents sustainable? Jeff Garner is described as “surfing from his second home in Malibu California, and horse-riding in London’s Hyde Park.”
There’s a fine line between trying to create a truly sustainable world and encouraging the consumption of “ecojunk” by creating more products than we actually need. It’s a problem that I struggle with constantly as I try to bridge the worlds of fashion and sustainability. I have so many questions to ask… I really do think that a proper interview is in order soon. Are you up for it Jeff?
- London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Prophetik (by Amelia)
- London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Prophetik (by Matt)
- Prophetik: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review
- London Fashion Week S/S 2011: Fashion Scout
- London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Prophetik