Amelia’s Magazine | Irving Penn: Portraits

NPG_IrvingPenn_Portraits

‘A good photograph is one that communicates a fact, touches the heart, and leaves the viewer a changed person for having seen it. It is, in a word, effective.’

These famous words, uttered by Irving Penn himself, pretty much sum up the experience of the Irving Penn: Portraits major exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery. Running until 6 June, this landmark offering marks one of fashion’s greatest photographers’ passing in October of last year, and is the first exhibition of his work in the UK for 25 years.

Here are a few reasons why you should see this restrospective of one of the world’s greatest photographers:

Celebrate a master
In the 1940s when Penn began his career shooting for Vogue magazine, opulent interiors and lavish settings were de rigeur for these magazines. Penn shook things up with his minimal, austere settings (often in stark studios with floors covered in fag butts). It was this style that he is most famous for, and which has influenced countless artists and photographers since.

Marvel at unique composition
While many photographers employed narratives in their work, removing personal elements, Penn’s focus was on keeping settings neutral and resisting these storytelling fantasies. His were studies of the face; he rarely photographed his subjects at full length, often severely chopping off the tops of heads with his crop. This was extraordinary at the time, and looking at these timeless images now, it still is. Glancing at the iconic portrait of his wife Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn in her harlequin number and then looking at a contemporary portrait of Nicole Kidman from as little ago as 2003, it is only by recognition of the subjects that we can differentiate the era; the ageless elegance of these photographs is truly astonishing.

NPG_IrvingPennPortraits_2

See REAL celebrities
Penn was one of the few photographers who documented the stars of the 1940s and 1950s, and in an age where getting your tits out on TV makes you a celebrity, be delighted amongst the faces of those with endurable star quality and immeasurable talent –  Rudolph Nureyev, Edith Piaf, Elsa Schiaparelli, Marlene Dietrich and Cecil Beaton to name a few.

Revel at the beauty of gelatin prints
All of Penn’s prints use the vintage silver gelatin process, which gives uncompromising quality and incredible contrast. Looking at the photographs makes a recent batch of DSLR prints I paid a fortune for look like a bad job by Snappy Snaps.

For more information or to book tickets, click here.

Categories ,Cecil Beaton, ,Edith Piaf, ,Elsa Schiaparelli, ,Fashion Photography, ,Irving Penn, ,Lisa Fonssagrives, ,london, ,Marlene Dietrich, ,national portrait gallery, ,Portraiture

Similar Posts:





Amelia’s Magazine | 10 eco designers to watch out for in SS10: Part One

Loads of actions and demonstrations will be taking place this week and next in Copenhagen to protest against COP15 and to demand real effective solutions to the climate crisis…

climateaction
Image courtesy of Climate Justice Action

Monday 7th December: Climate Justice Fast! Hunger strikes have been taking place since the 6th of November in the UK, store US, drugs India, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, South Africa, Honduras, Bhutan and Copenhagen to raise awareness for the urgent need for action on climate change. Over 60 activists are already involved, and the 7th of December is an international day of fasting.

Wednesday 9th December: A large meeting will be held to spread the word on the upcoming actions and demonstrations this week in Copenhagen.
19:00 – 21:00 Ragnhildgade 1.

Friday 11th December: Don’t Buy the Lie. A day of anti-corporate action, because there is no such thing as green capitalism! 14:00.

Click here for more information

Saturday 12th December: Global Day of Action. Synchronised international demonstrations to call on world leaders to take urgent action on climate change.
To help build for these demonstrations go to www.globalclimatecampaign.org

Saturday 12th December: Flood for Climate Justice! A ‘flood’ organised by Friends of the Earth, in which people will flood through the streets of Copenhagen with their demands for climate justice.

Click here for more information and to find out how to get involved

Sunday 13th December: Hit the production! A day encouraging groups to take action on our economic system, in Copenhagen and abroad. On Saturday morning a group will shut down Copenhagen Harbor with a mass blockade.

Click here for more information

borders
Image courtesy of Climate Justice Action

Monday 14th December: No Border Day of Action. March to the Ministry of Defense from Radhuspladsen at 11am.

Click here for more information

agriculture
Image courtesy of Climate Justice Action

Tuesday 15th December: Resistance is ripe! Agriculture Action Day. The current food production system is responsible for over 32% of greenhouse gas emissions whilst farmers lose their land and livelihood, agri-businesses make millions. A day of action demanding an end to the false business solutions of the UNFCCC, No offsets from agriculture, a transition from the world’s capitalist economy toward a people-centered economy where peasants agriculture and local foods play a large role, an end to food waste and over-consumption, support for peasants access to land, support for small scale farming, sustainable agriculture and healthy food for all.

Click here for more information

Wednesday 16th – 18th December: Reclaim Power! Push for Climate Justice! A confrontational mass action of non-violent civil disobedience. In opposition to the false solutions being discussed at the climate summit, the Peoples Assembly will highlight alternatives that provide real just solutions. The Assembly will begin at 12 noon in the main entrance to the Bella Centre inside the UN area.

Click here for more information
Amelia’s magazine did the rounds at the SS10 press days and whilst we were enthralled by so many beautiful brands we’ve thought long and hard about criteria for our summary and there was really only one thing for it– a comprehensive round up of the best environmentally friendly and fair-trade brands we’re predicting great things for in 2010… Brace yourselves guys, viagra approved you’ve got exactly 22 days until we expect the magic to begin!
Yellow and White mac 008Image courtesy of Christopher Raeburn

Christopher Raeburn
A designer whose name is never far from any eco fashion list is that of Christopher Raeburn, who is famed for his high end, innovative and functional fashion created using re-appropriated military fabrics. Sourcing his material from de-commissioned military stock and hot-air balloon canvas among other materials Raeburn both redesigns and manufactures his groundbreaking garments ethically within the UK.

PB121954Image courtesy of Rachael Oku

Of his SS10 collection Christopher says: “This season presents a great opportunity to play with colour, negative space and flowing lines; from its inception I wanted to create an upbeat, fresh and experimental collection.”
With the emphasis on rouching, contrasting geometric panels and colourful taped seams Raeburn utilises laser cutting techniques for the first time introducing repeat patterns of concentric circle cut-outs which are peppered throughout the collection cleverly hidden between panels and layered hoods and sleeves.

Parachute dress

Image courtesy of Christopher Raeburn

What is most striking about Raeburn’s new contemporary collection of dresses, ponchos, skirts and macs is how well his colour palette and themes work together with layer, light and silhouette being the main focuses. With the majority of fabric used being transparent it is Raeburn’s bright accents of colour and playful dots that really inject life into the garments, and are reminiscent of jellyfish.

Purple and White Jacket with matching bag 006

Image courtesy of Christopher Raeburn

Rather excitingly the new collection also features accessories for the first time, with Raeburn fusing woven netting with his trademark parachute fabric and cord to great effect adding to the high impact of this super functional range.

Lu FluxPB121959Image courtesy of Rachael Oku

Another exciting designer who we’re predicting big things for next year is the lovely Lu Flux; who has just launched her debut collection after being named ‘London’s newest one to watch’ at Vauxhall Fashion Scout earlier in the year. What sets Lu’s designs apart is that her work is created using salvaged, vintage and organic fabrics, which she cleverly combines with traditional techniques such as knitting, pleating and patchwork.

PB121960Image courtesy of Rachael Oku

Lu’s witty and playful SS10 collection titled ‘The Eco Life of Riley’ is inspired by the ‘humble bluetit’ which is cleverly juxtaposed with bold jarring graphics throughout the collection. If developing her own eco brand wasn’t enough of a challenge Lu is also busy working on a project called SOKO Kenya to produce her raffia woven products. The idea behind this project is to work in conjunction with local Kenyan tailors who attend the community owned Ukunda Youth Polytechnic, which offers basic vocational training to local residents at a low cost.

!cid_2D1E7675-BCF5-4460-8B57-B855D8816400Image courtesy of SOKO Kenya

This collaboration will see SOKO invest a minimum of 5% gross earnings into the Polytechnic annually in addition to year-round fundraising to help acquire sewing machines and other essential equipment for the students. Additionally SOKO are committed to providing support in the design and running of the Polytechnic’s existing tailoring department and syllabus according to international fair-trade and eco production standards.

IMG_3182Image courtesy of SOKO Kenya

PB121961Image courtesy of Rachael Oku depicting SOKO Kenya products

Most importantly both parties are committed to working together to transform the Polytechnic into an eco institution by introducing a rainwater catchment system and working to create solar generated electricity. To find out more about this great project and where to buy SOKO Kenya products head to their website.

Apron Dress and BodysuitImage courtesy of Julia Smith

Julia Smith
Another groundbreaking designer who caught our attention was Julia Smith, a designer who has graced the webpages of Amelia’s magazine a few times previously. Julia’s SS10 collection entitled ‘Nurture Me’ explores the idea of mixing beauty with function. Part inspired by the 1930′s and 1940′s, when loose shapes and function were paramount Julia’s collection also references the concept of underwear as outerwear. Created using tactile fabrics such as soy, bamboo and organic cotton and linen Julia cleverly juxtaposes these with recycled polyester which is made from recycled plastic (PET) bottles.

Lara Jacket and Power BodyImage courtesy of Julia Smith

What really sets Julia apart is her second line aptly titled ‘Julia Smith Made in Africa’, which supports lives in Ghana through the vision of Mrs. Marian Essel, a highly skilled batik printer from Ghana, West Africa. Having worked for the Global Mamas in Cape Coast, Marian and Julia Smith have now formed a co-operative in the suburbs of Accra, Ghana’s capital city, offering employment opportunities to the struggling community.

Made in Africa 1Image courtesy of Julia Smith depicting the Made in Africa collection

With Marian using all the proceeds of her work to employ disadvantaged adults as well as sponsoring children so that they can go to school, this is a fantastic initiative which aims to help everyone within the community get the best educational start in life. The ‘Julia Smith Made in Africa’ collection is stocked in Julia’s new flagship store in Marble Arch’s Connaught Village.

borrato

Matt and Nat
Image courtesy of Matt and Nat

A new brand to Amelia’s magazine which is fast becoming a firm favourite is that of Matt & Nat, a pioneering vegan luxury accessories label who create animal free products for both men and women. Interestingly (which I’m hoping you’ll agree) Matt & Nat is not a design duo as the name would suggest but is instead founded by Inder Bedi who was challenged almost 20 years ago to forgo animal products for 30 days. Ever since he has made a conscious effort to use recycled and greener materials in his work steering clear of leather, wool and animal by-products.

commix

Image courtesy of Matt and Nat

For SS10 Matt & Nat are continuing where they left off last season with their 21 water bottles campaign which sees all the linings in their handbags and wallets created using 100% recycled plastic, with each accessory using an average of 21 bottles.

hendrix blueImage courtesy of Matt and Nat

With the inspirations for their SS10 collection being biker chic and glam rock, each bag has been embellished differently with everything from studs to zip details. Made primarily from eel skin (incidentally the softest type of leather I have ever felt,) the colour palette of fiery scarlet, intense blue and blush pink bring a vintage feel to the pieces.

Henrietta Ludgate
A great designer who has already received quite a bit of media attention in 2009 is Henrietta Ludgate, who won the Ethical Fashion Forum ‘Fashion Innovation Award’ earlier in the year. Creating sustainable and sculptural garments from her studio in the remote Highlands of Scotland, Henrietta stays close to her Scotch roots by working primarily with Scottish linen.

4    Image courtesy of Henrietta Ludgate

With a brand ethos to support both the Scottish and British textile industry as a whole, all fabrics are sourced from within the British Isles with all pieces produced locally.

image15Image courtesy of Henrietta Ludgate

A champion of slow fashion, Henrietta’s minimalist silhouette remains hauntingly elegant and distinctive. For inspiration Henrietta often looks to Elsa Schiaparelli, and her vision of fashion as a type of architecture, and beliefs that clothing should be ‘closely connected to the frame of the body’.

image12Image courtesy of Henrietta Ludgate

With the recent opening of a swanky new showroom in London’s Covent Garden, things are looking bright for 2010.
Stay tuned for the second instalment tomorrow…

Categories ,21 water bottles campaign, ,Christopher Raeburn, ,Elsa Schiaparelli, ,Ethical Fashion Forum, ,Global Mamas, ,Henrietta Ludgate, ,Julia Smith, ,Lu Flux, ,Made in Africa, ,Marble Arch’s Connaught Village, ,Matt & Nat, ,Soko Kenya, ,Ukunda Youth Polytechnic, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | A Review of ILLUMinations at the Arsenale, Venice Biennale 2011: part one

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review
During my recent trip to Venice I had the opportunity to visit the Venice Biennale. Even better, information pills as guests of the primary partner Swatch, erectile we had our own private tour around two major parts of the extensive exhibition. Here’s what I liked at the amazing old army dockyard, otherwise known as the Arsenale. ILLUMinations at the Arsenale was curated by Bice Curiger.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-song dong
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-song dong
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-song dong
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-song dong
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-song dong
Song Dong‘s massive Parapavilion installation greets visitors on entry to the Arsenale exhibition – part old Chinese Hutong, part wardrobe maze: a reference to the cupboards kept on streets in many old areas. An impressive piece to encounter straight away… and I particularly liked looking at all the details of the individual wardrobes, wondering what their previous lives were.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-456
Roman Ondak‘s eery artwork Time Capsule (2011) is focused on a replica of the rescue capsule that was used to evacuate the Chilean miners last year. Viewers approach it in darkness, only realising what it is when they are pressed up close to its narrow confines.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Mai-Thu Perret
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Mai-Thu Perret
Mai-Thu Perret‘s glossy sculpture wears a replica of Elsa Schiaparelli‘s famous Skeleton Dress. Behind it a neon pyramid glows in sputtering layers.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Andro Wekua
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Andro Wekua
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Andro Wekua
Andro Wekua of Georgia now works in Switzerland after he was forced into exile with the outbreak of war. Pink Wave Hunter is the odd title he gives a piece that is built on his recollections of important buildings from the city of his birth.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Rashid Johnson
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Rashid Johnson
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Rashid Johnson
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Rashid Johnson
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Rashid Johnson
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Rashid Johnson
Rashid Johnson examines the culture of the black diaspora in America. A zebra rug is laid on top of a woollen carpet. Artefacts particular to his upbringing, such as a book on childcare by Bill Crosby, are laid out on shattered mirrored wall mounts. Beautiful and affecting.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Birdhead
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Birdhead
Birdhead are a Shanghai collective who collect imagery that captures the lives of the modern Chinese.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Franz West
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-500
Franz West has relocated his kitchen to the gallery for his Parapavilion, complete with artwork from his walls – thereby creating a show within a show. And yes, a photograph proves that his walls are indeed painted in this crazy cross-hatched manner.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Dayanita Singh
Dayanita Singh‘s evocative collection of black and white photographs highlights the many many files sitting on shelves across India, which will soon vanish as the use of computers and hard drives become ever more prevalent.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Elad Lassry
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Elad Lassry
Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Elad Lassry
Elad Lassry shows a video montage of catsuited dancers alongside colourful images of vintage ladies in big hats and pop art-esque mushrooms. No idea what it all means but it was fun.

Venice Biennale 2011 Swatch review-Haroon Mirza
Haroon Mirza has created an eery installation – visitors enter a darkened box with walls covered in sound soaking points of foam. The combination of sound and blinking neon creates a discombobulating effect that leaves everybody giggling.

Next up: more from the ILLUMinations exhibition in part two.

Categories ,54th, ,Andro Wekua, ,Arsenale, ,Bice Curiger, ,Bill Crosby, ,Birdhead, ,Chinese, ,Dayanita Singh, ,Elad Lassry, ,Elsa Schiaparelli, ,Franz West, ,georgia, ,Haroon Mirza, ,Hutong, ,ILLUMinations, ,Mai-Thu Perret, ,Parapavilion, ,Pink Wave Hunter, ,Rashid Johnson, ,Roman Ondak, ,Shanghai, ,Skeleton Dress, ,Song Dong, ,Swatch, ,Switzerland, ,Time Capsule (2011), ,Venice Biennale

Similar Posts: