Grayson Perry was front row at the first stand alone London College of Fashion MA womenswear show, held at the Wallace Collection. He looked fabulous, from his pink cloche hat down to his blue platform shoes.
It felt as if many of the students were reading from the same page, with an ascetic, stripped back peasant like feel to many collections, perhaps a reflection of the fact that the majority of designers were of Far Eastern extraction. Details such as oversized asymmetrical layers, curtain rail ruffles and squared shapes were a common feature,
Lacking show notes I have been trying to access interviews with my favourite designers on the official London College of Fashion Graduate Spotlight blog but unfortunately the server is not responding: they’ve clearly had so much interest in their show that it cannot cope! I’ve done my best to interpret the collections but if you want to know more hopefully the links will be working by the time you read this…
Yutong Jiang combined flouncy babydoll bows with swinging capes and cherry red knitwear to create a lighthearted yet sophisticated collection.
Russian born Maria Piankov played with squares inspired by the iconography of the Space Race, accessorising with perspex cube handbags.
Elly Choi took inspiration from collegiate stripes, subverting the look in blouson shirts and slouchy sweatshirts with stitch details.
Qiwen Wu accessorised crisp tied layers of cotton and suiting in monochrome with extravagant headgear inspired by the Bedouin, tennis and the 1920s.
Just as I was beginning to hope for a bit more sexiness Kelly Cho went for it, with a standout collection of patent black and gold garments featuring oversized handbag details: as if the models were wearing their favourite accessory.
Korean designer Meng Yu’s A line tops and skirts took the curtain theme to heart, with voluminous pastel layers featuring ruffles aplenty and printed splashes. A cute hat topped with a stalk gave one model the appearance of an oversized flower fairy. I am fairly sure this collection would be a favourite with Grayson.
The fantastically named Scottacus Anthony has his own website! Hurrah! He injected a shot of colour, with a citrus bright range of asymmetrical garments inspired by military garb, draped in gold and braids. A pattern of what looked like ancient Roman heads was rendered 3D with a clever bit of quilting on a printed top.
London Fashion Week AW15 has begun, bring it on!
Categories ,Elly Choi, ,Graduate Spotlight, ,Grayson Perry, ,Kelly Cho, ,London College of Fashion, ,Maria Piankov, ,Meng Yu, ,Mushroom Song, ,Qiwen Wu, ,Scottacus Anthony, ,Wallace Collection, ,Yutong Jiang
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