Amelia’s Magazine | Environmentally Conscious Style on a Budget- part two

12445-esthetica-rImage courtesy of Esthetica, website information pills sponsored by Monsoon

2009 was quite a year for ethical fashion. Dazed and Confused featured an in-depth interview with fashion icon Vivienne Westwood and leading environmentalist James Lovelock. Vogue devoted a sizable spread to green fashion, medical and London Fashion Week kicked off with Esthetica, a showcase of 28 ethical designers. Ecofashion it would seem edged its way from the periphery into something approaching centre stage. Out were the unshapely, unflattering garments previously seen on only the most hardened of the eco-warriors. In were beautifully crafted clothes with a conscience as a growing number of designers and consumers tackled the prickly issue of clothing, style, and the environment. This momentum seems only likely to gain in strength judging by the numerous events and exhibitions planned for 2010.

Essentially what we are seeing is a growing realisation that while it is absolutely imperative that far more is said on the environmental and human consequences of fast fashion, there is no need to sacrifice a sense of style to take part in this dialogue. Like music and art, fashion is an extension of culture, a manifestation of the changing influences of the society within which it exists. There should be no shame in wanting to take part in this expressive medium, but nor should this interest be at the expense of our planet. However on making the decision to marry an interest in clothing and green issues you may find yourself stumped with where exactly to source reasonably priced stylish garments whose production has not impacted negatively both socially and environmentally. Herein lies something of a problem.

gabmillAlexa Chung in Oxfam Remade campaign, photographed by Kai Z Feng

Ecofashion may now be occupying headlines, but hugely desirable as this clothing may be, cheap it is not. Dressing sustainably and stylishly can come with a considerable price tag. Of course there is a reason for this and the answer is to save and buy responsibly, but at the cost of most ethical lines and my current income I’d average 2 garments a year and shoes every other. The rise of fast fashion is undoubtedly one of the major scourges of our time, and while I can in no way condone its revolving door of trends, neither do I particularly want to spend my year interchanging two outfits. So until I get a wage that affords me a capsule wardrobe of organically grown, naturally dyed, fairly traded wonder garments, you’ll find me in Oxfam.

2482927517_c779706755Image courtesy of Oxfam Boutique

Rethinking the charity shop
The reinvention of the charity shop is long overdue and still a considerable way from anything you could call complete. Currently thanks to the efforts of fashion guru and creative director Jane Shepherdson, Oxfam would appear to be one of the few charities pulling its stores through a major image reworking and providing us with anything approaching a viable option to mainstream buying.

Shepherdson’s vision of the Oxfam Boutique has reinvented recycled fashion, turning on its head any idea you may have about ill-fitting dresses secured with safety pins. In doing so she has firmly established the charity shop as a major resource for the environmentally conscious style seeker on a budget, while bringing to our attention the main reasons behind why choosing to buy donated clothing is one of the easiest ways to reduce our environmental footprint which, where clothing is concerned, is big.
12445-esthetica-rImage courtesy of Esthetica, web sponsored by Monsoon

2009 was quite a year for ethical fashion. Dazed and Confused featured an in-depth interview with fashion icon Vivienne Westwood and leading environmentalist James Lovelock. Vogue devoted a sizable spread to green fashion, drug and London Fashion Week kicked off with Esthetica, a showcase of 28 ethical designers. Ecofashion it would seem edged its way from the periphery into something approaching centre stage. Out were the unshapely, unflattering garments previously seen on only the most hardened of the eco-warriors. In were beautifully crafted clothes with a conscience as a growing number of designers and consumers tackled the prickly issue of clothing, style, and the environment. This momentum seems only likely to gain in strength judging by the numerous events and exhibitions planned for 2010.

Essentially what we are seeing is a growing realisation that while it is absolutely imperative that far more is said on the environmental and human consequences of fast fashion, there is no need to sacrifice a sense of style to take part in this dialogue. Like music and art, fashion is an extension of culture, a manifestation of the changing influences of the society within which it exists. There should be no shame in wanting to take part in this expressive medium, but nor should this interest be at the expense of our planet. However on making the decision to marry an interest in clothing and green issues you may find yourself stumped with where exactly to source reasonably priced stylish garments whose production has not impacted negatively both socially and environmentally. Herein lies something of a problem.

gabmillAlexa Chung in Oxfam Remade campaign, photographed by Kai Z Feng

Ecofashion may now be occupying headlines, but hugely desirable as this clothing may be, cheap it is not. Dressing sustainably and stylishly can come with a considerable price tag. Of course there is a reason for this and the answer is to save and buy responsibly, but at the cost of most ethical lines and my current income I’d average 2 garments a year and shoes every other. The rise of fast fashion is undoubtedly one of the major scourges of our time, and while I can in no way condone its revolving door of trends, neither do I particularly want to spend my year interchanging two outfits. So until I get a wage that affords me a capsule wardrobe of organically grown, naturally dyed, fairly traded wonder garments, you’ll find me in Oxfam.

2482927517_c779706755Image courtesy of Oxfam Boutique

Rethinking the charity shop
The reinvention of the charity shop is long overdue and still a considerable way from anything you could call complete. Currently thanks to the efforts of fashion guru and creative director Jane Shepherdson, Oxfam would appear to be one of the few charities pulling its stores through a major image reworking and providing us with anything approaching a viable option to mainstream buying.

Shepherdson’s vision of the Oxfam Boutique has reinvented recycled fashion, turning on its head any idea you may have about ill-fitting dresses secured with safety pins. In doing so she has firmly established the charity shop as a major resource for the environmentally conscious style seeker on a budget, while bringing to our attention the main reasons behind why choosing to buy donated clothing is one of the easiest ways to reduce our environmental footprint which, where clothing is concerned, is big.

Stay tuned for part two this afternoon…
This morning Sisi King commented about what a great year 2009 was for ethical fashion. This afternoon she discusses how we can be eco-conscious in our fashion choices for 2010…

The environmental impact of clothing
According to DEFRA an estimated 8000 chemicals are used in turning a raw material into the finished product. There’s the bleaching and dying, page the use of petrochemicals and heavy metals, not to mention the demand on water. The manufacture of synthetic fabrics such as polyester has no less of an impact being hugely energy intensive and dependent on large amounts of crude oil. Keeping clothing in circulation and out of the landfill bypasses this process, saving energy and resources while reducing the pressures of finding the space to dump all our discarded garments.

Oxfam_clothing_and_shoe_bankImage courtesy of Oxfam- who accept clothing donations both in store and at clothes banks (above) nationwide.

Greening your style on a budget
Consumerism has become an integral part of our economy, but the recent crisis has forced many to reassess this status quo. Now is the time for those concerned about the ramifications of intensive fashion to demonstrate that a sustainable version is every bit as stylish and need not break the bank. So for those of us who are hard up and concerned about the impact of our shopping practices, I’d recommend beefing out your no doubt sparse but worthy wardrobes by making a beeline for an Oxfam Boutique near you. Not in the metropolis? Here’s some handy tips to get your average charity shop clobber looking bang on trend.

P1142266Image courtesy of Rachael Oku. Clothing can also be donated in designated bins (above) in TRAID stores nationwide.

Transforming that charity dress:
Charity shop dresses. I know. Odd sizes, odd shapes, dubious sleeves. Solution? Belt high, chop short, detach offending sleeves. Voila. On trend.

Men’s as Women’s:
Androgyny is never far out of the fashion eye and charity shops can certainly deliver on this one. Oversized men’s shirts and jumpers will look great belted over skinny jeans or leggings. Grab a tweed jacket for the much loved boyfriend blazer and scrunch up the sleeves, or turn up the bottoms on a pair of man trousers and wear with brogues or statement heals.

Mix it up:
Charity shops are a source extraordinaire for vintage finds which look great when styled with something modern.

Eveningwear as Daywear:
Sequined dresses circa 1989? Floor length velvet? Who says it’s not to be seen in the daytime. Cut short and team with a wooly jumper/blazer and converse or Victorian style booties.

Accessories:
Quirky jewelry, brilliant bags, scarves, belts, ties worn as belts. Head to a charity shop in a well-to-do area for some real finds.

Customizing:
Jackets, coats and cardies can all be transformed with a new set of buttons. Simple yet effective. Get yours and head down the nearest haberdashery for instant garment rejuvenation.

Grandma Skirts:
Wear as a dress and belt at the waist.

Grandpa Knitwear:
Huge heavy cardigans and sweaters featuring the likes of sheep and autumn leaves can be amazing worn over your mini dress/shorts, legging, jeggings, skinnies, whatever. This is charity shop gold. And as they usually outnumber most other garments 10:1 you can be sure to get your hands one.

Happy Hunting!!

Categories ,defra, ,Eco fashion, ,Oxfam Boutique, ,Sisi King, ,traid

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Amelia’s Magazine | Estethica Press Day: Somerset House, 22 April 2010

Colourful Coffins Lesley Barnes Thereza Rowe Abigail Daker
Colourful Coffins from Lesley Barnes, order Thereza Rowe and Abigail Daker.

A couple of weeks ago, information pills while playing around on twitter, I saw a link posted by Thereza Rowe for a site called www.colourfulcoffins.com. Intrigued (colourful and coffin not usually being words which go together) I took a look. The site featured eco-friendly coffins which had been customized using stock images and Thereza had discovered it when her husband – driving back from Oxford – had spotted a sign saying ‘colourful coffins’ and requested that she google it to see what it was all about.

Kate Slater colourful coffins
A Colourful Coffin by Kate Slater.

A conversation between Thereza, Lesley Barnes and myself then followed which turned into a far more serious discussion about how we would go about creating our own designs. With just a few tweets and a few more emails, the Happy Journey Collective was born. Other artists were invited to participate, given a ‘final destination’ box template to work around and their submissions have been added to the Happy Journey website which was set up by Thereza and features a banner design by Simon Wild. Excitingly, the website launches today!

Colourful Coffins uberkraaft
A Colourful Coffin by uberkraaft.

The great thing about the work submitted to the project so far is that all the contributing artists have created colourful & idiosyncratic pieces. Choosing an appropriate casket is a difficult task for anyone and the aim of the project is to provide a positive and eco-friendly alternative to the more traditional options.
For further information about the project, please contact happyjourneycollective@googlemail.com. This is an ongoing project and new work will be uploaded regularly; to view participating artists work, please check the website.
Colourful Coffins Lesley Barnes Thereza Rowe Abigail Daker
Colourful Coffins from Lesley Barnes, approved Thereza Rowe and Abigail Daker.

A couple of weeks ago, advice while playing around on twitter, I saw a link posted by Thereza Rowe for a site called www.colourfulcoffins.com. Intrigued (colourful and coffin not usually being words which go together) I took a look. The site featured eco-friendly coffins which had been customized using stock images and Thereza had discovered it when her husband – driving back from Oxford – had spotted a sign saying ‘colourful coffins’ and requested that she google it to see what it was all about.

Kate Slater colourful coffins
A Colourful Coffin by Kate Slater.

A conversation between Thereza, Lesley Barnes and myself then followed which turned into a far more serious discussion about how we would go about creating our own designs. With just a few tweets and a few more emails, the Happy Journey Collective was born. Other artists were invited to participate, given a ‘final destination’ box template to work around and their submissions have been added to the Happy Journey website which was set up by Thereza and features a banner design by Simon Wild. Excitingly, the website launches today!

Colourful Coffins uberkraaft
A Colourful Coffin by uberkraaft.

The great thing about the work submitted to the project so far is that all the contributing artists have created colourful & idiosyncratic pieces. Choosing an appropriate casket is a difficult task for anyone and the aim of the project is to provide a positive and eco-friendly alternative to the more traditional options.
For further information about the project, please contact happyjourneycollective@googlemail.com. This is an ongoing project and new work will be uploaded regularly; to view participating artists work, please check the website.
Colourful Coffins Lesley Barnes Thereza Rowe Abigail Daker
Colourful Coffins from Lesley Barnes, hospital Thereza Rowe and Abigail Daker.

A couple of weeks ago, try while playing around on twitter, cost I saw a link posted by Thereza Rowe for a site called www.colourfulcoffins.com. Intrigued (colourful and coffin not usually being words which go together) I took a look. The site featured eco-friendly coffins which had been customized using stock images and Thereza had discovered it when her husband – driving back from Oxford – had spotted a sign saying ‘colourful coffins’ and requested that she google it to see what it was all about.

Kate Slater colourful coffins
A Colourful Coffin by Kate Slater.

A conversation between Thereza, Lesley Barnes and myself then followed which turned into a far more serious discussion about how we would go about creating our own designs. With just a few tweets and a few more emails, the Happy Journey Collective was born. Other artists were invited to participate, given a ‘final destination’ box template to work around and their submissions have been added to the Happy Journey website which was set up by Thereza and features a banner design by Simon Wild. Excitingly, the website launches today!

Colourful Coffins uberkraaft
A Colourful Coffin by uberkraaft.

The great thing about the work submitted to the project so far is that all the contributing artists have created colourful & idiosyncratic pieces. Choosing an appropriate casket is a difficult task for anyone and the aim of the project is to provide a positive and eco-friendly alternative to the more traditional options.
For further information about the project, please contact happyjourneycollective@googlemail.com. This is an ongoing project and new work will be uploaded regularly; to view participating artists work, please check the website.
robin hood tax - abi daker
Illustration by Abigail Daker.

I’ve always been a huge fan of Robin Hood. When I was younger I had a great cassette tape of all his stories and escapades. These generally seemed to involve taking from the rich and giving to the poor whilst seemingly having absolutely as much fun as possible of course.

I’d all but forgotten about him however, information pills until recently when I heard about the Robin Hood Tax campaign. It aims to put a tiny tax on banks to raise loads of money – billions in fact – to tackle poverty and green issues locally and abroad. What’s great about this idea is that it’s really simple – a small tax of around 0.05% per transaction between banks – but that the difference it could make is enormous. It can help stop cuts in crucial public services in the UK, side effects AND aid the fight against global poverty and climate change. Keeping the Robin Hood spirit alive in this day and age.

Robin Hood Tax

There’s a momentum that’s been building for quite a while now… there are lots of people that agree with my view and think this tax is a great idea – including Sienna Miller, store Jaime Winstone and Bill Nighy – he appeared in a great ad being pounced on by “Robin Hood hoodies” – Check it out! But I know that in order for this campaign to be a success we need to spread the word as much as we can, get all our friends and family on board and campaigning together to make this a reality. Robin Hood never got anywhere without his band of merry men supporting him all the way.

One way I’m getting involved is by taking part in an activity Oxfam are organizing this Sunday 2nd May to raise awareness – the Robin Hood Tax treasure Hunt. Treasure hunts are always a huge amount of fun – I remember around Easter as a kid my older cousins used to set up egg hunts for my sister and me. I loved following the clues, the adventure and the excitement of the unknown. Who says I can’t enjoy a treasure hunt now I’m a little older though – especially when it’s made all the more enjoyable knowing that I’m spreading the word about such as great cause AND an excuse to dress up as the great Robin Hood himself.

robin hood tax - abi daker
Illustration by Abigail Daker.

I’m going to join a group of bandits and merry makers tweeting, blogging, videoing and taking pictures around east London spreading the word and with the opportunity to win tickets to top summer festivals including the fabulous Winterwell Festival, a secret boutique festival in the beautiful rolling hills of Gloucestershire with great music and fancy dress. Oxfam held a similar event in Brighton last week with teams of merry men and women scampering around the city braving challenges such as busking with tambourines and dressing up as a bankers in the Oxfam shop.

If you’re interested in the campaign, a big Robin Hood fan and up for a fun day out, join me and other wannabe Robin Hood’s to take part in the treasure hunt on Sunday. You need to snap up a £2 ticket from Robin Hood game website. All money raised goes directly as a donation to Oxfam and the campaign effort. Just check out the details below of when where and what and I look forward to seeing you there.

The East London treasure hunt is on Sunday 2nd May, from 1-6pm
Start & finish at Richmix, 35-47 Bethnal Green Road, London E1 6LA

Estethica gives the fashion industry another showcase where ethical fashion is the focus; it undoubtedly changes the way we perceive this glittering industry. Their latest press day, about it hosted at Somerset House and coinciding with Earth Day on 22 April, viagra was no mistake.

Arriving at Somerset House, medical you’d be forgiven for thinking that this group of eco fashion designers think and move together as one collective – their goals and ethics are so similar. Their collections, however, are entirely different, and it’s a testament to how rapidly ethical fashion has progressed. Estethica takes fashion and sustainability, as one entity, very seriously.

Orsola De Castro, together with her partner Filippo Ricci, started Estethica in September 2006 as a showcase for labels with ethical and environmental policies. It’s the only sustainable area at London Fashion Week’s vast seasonal exhibition, which De Castro curates and organises with the British Fashion Council. She told me: “Estethica is growing. It’s had positive responses from both the market and the media as well as all the designers hoarded here today. This is our third press day and we will continue to propose initiatives like this which are really important for all the Estethica ethical brands.”


From Somewhere

From Somewhere is De Castro’s own ethical clothing brand, starting with humble beginnings in 1997 and developing into a renowned label over the last ten or so years. “Our last collection made for Tesco has been a great success with all the pieces sold out after the first few weeks,” De Castro revealed.

In the early afternoon I took part in a round table to discuss the promotion and marketing of ethical fashion, with fashion luminaries Baroness Lola Young, Charity Durrant, Laura Bailey, Livia Firth, Vera Budimlija, Yasmin Sewell and Orsola De Castro herself.

The main topic was the future of ethical fashion: how it is evolving, its perspectives for the years to come, and how it deals with a fashion system which still depends so heavily on its seasonality – in many cases up to four collections a year.

Ethical fashion has quality and creativity as its core values more then rapidity, and everybody will readily admit that there’s still a long way to go. Considering fashion’s incredible power and influence, if the values we communicate (as designers) support ethical living, fashion really has the chance to influence consumers’ choices and their sustainable behaviours. In the future experts predict that we will revel in an increase of hybrid brands that more and more embrace ethical causes and processes.

Each designer at Estethica has individual ethical processes and policies. For Ivana Basilotta and her poetic glamour punk dresses, it’s organic peace-silk, aka vegetarian silk, manufactured in a process where silkworms are not killed. This silk is famous for its warmth, therapeutic use and its rareness.


Christopher Raeburn

For Christopher Raeburn, it’s about recycling. He makes use of original fabrics from British army jackets, camouflage ponchos, Swedish snow cotton and battered Italian leather military jackets, creating an original fusion between high-performative fabrics and urban culture.


Maxjenny

When you see Maxjenny’s collection you would never imagine these garments are made from recycled PET bottles, fabric painted with waterbased colour. They are breathable, rainproof and iron-free.

The Estethica press day closed with a performance by Sarah Sarhandi. The sounds of her violin delighted the fashion pack as they tucked into delicious Estethica cupcakes.

Categories ,Baroness Lola Young, ,BFC, ,british fashion council, ,Charity Durrant, ,Christopher Raeburn, ,cupcakes, ,Earth Day, ,environment, ,estethica, ,Ethical Fashion, ,fashion, ,Filippo Ricci, ,From Somewhere, ,Ivana Basilotta, ,Laura Bailey, ,lfw, ,Livia Firth, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maxjenny, ,Organic peace silk, ,Orsola De Castro, ,Press Day, ,recycling, ,Sarah Sarhandi, ,Somerset House, ,Tesco, ,Vegetarian silk, ,Vera Boudmilija, ,Yasmin Sewell

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