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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

LFW 09 – David Koma – The Jetsons meets Barbarella

Fashion Scout, Merit Winner, London Fashion Week. Covent Garden

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft

Kicking off with the haunting melody that is Placebo’s cover version of Kate Bush’s Running Up That Hill.

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Aminaka Wilmont were the last to show at Somerset House on Friday evening. (The song’s been around for a while, advice rx but if you haven’t heard it, ed check it out – it’s surprisingly beautiful).

Despite flailing after a punishing run of shows, it was difficult not to be immersed in the ethereal atmosphere of Aminaka Wilmont.

The garments sent down the catwalk celebrated the body. Where as a host of designers at this year’s London Fashion Week had created pieces to exaggerate or enhance the figure, Aminaka Wilmont’s collection did the opposite – fabric was moulded and shaped around the contours of the body for all to see.

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Some pieces were cut on the bias and included nips, flaps and tucks to sit on the body perfectly, creating a dynamic look…

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…While others draped elegantly but still managed to promote the body’s natural silhouette.

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Shorts were short, as were skirts. Subtle, apologetic prints in pale hues complimented the twists and turns of the fabric.

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The palette eased us in with tamed pastille pinks, tempted us with stronger blues and greens, and seduced us with black and silver.

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While the paletter grew more intense, the clothes became more daring. I particularly loved this leather number made from strips, which continued the fluidity of the theme…

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…while J. Smith Esquire produced contrasting head gear, such as this fabulous winged number.

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With smooth fabric engineering, innovative techniques and an obsession for shape and silhouette, Aminaka Wilmont’s debut On-Schedule collection was a fantastic addition to Fashion Week.

Photographs by Matt Bramford
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David Koma blasted Hot Chip ‘do it do it do it now’ as the models strutted along the catwalk attired in the outcome of the Jetson family crossed with Barbarella. The tight body conscious dress hems (a trend still occurring on the majority of catwalks) were adorned with black tubular piping and Deep Space Nine style jewellery. This was fun fun party fashion.

The solar system number was a particular favourite of mine, capsule as a careful balancing act was required in the wearing of the piece. The use of rainbow coloured jewels screamed –definitely a positive point- Fred Butler Fred Butler

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The second half of the collection was the interpretation of the designer’s inspiration, ampoule the painter and sculptor Niki de Saint Phalle.

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These dramatic dresses covered in bold primary colour block certainly grabbed the attention. The variety of materials embellishing the garments added a sense of tactically, whilst retaining a definite Star Trek alien ‘babe’ theme. 

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Sci-fi was a strong running theme at London Fashion Week,  with fembots seen at Blow Presents and  Lousie Goldin S/S collections 2010.

The strapless pink nipple dress was an interpretation of Niki di Saint Phalle’s voluptuous abstract sculptures celebrating decadent femininity. A successful application of the artist’s bold lines and block colours presenting the viewer with an abstract version of the colour block trend reinterpreting the artist’s designs onto the shape of the 60′s (the cut of the dresses celebrating the cuts of Mary Quant and Biba).

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The use of bright colours embellished hips and shoulders blocking and revealing parts of the body at the same time.

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The entire collection continued Koma’s interest in the female silhouette with the tight-tight dresses exaggerating the (fairly non-existant) curves of the models. The show concluded with overt references to the designer’s A/W 09 collection with the exaggerated curving in the construction of the dresses.

All Photographs by Sabrina Morrison

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