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Top 25 Art Blog - Creative Tourist

LWF 09 – Future Classics S/S2010 – Constructed Jersey

Somerset House, London Fashion Week September 2009

Written by Sabrina Morrison

cmassey1

Imagine what Evelyn Waugh’s Sebastian Flyte might wear if he was a) a man about London town circa now, search and b) a real person and not a tragic fictional character. Well, see I telleth thee, it might just be Carolyn Massey’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection , or bits of it at any rate.

Massey’s collections concentrate on what it is to be a gentleman and how menswear has adapted itself in the past during times of civil unrest.

Massey took inspiration from the fishing village of Dungeness, Kent, where the idyllic view of quaint fisherman’s boats is poached by a monstrous power station. This concept, where English elegance meets an opposing force, whatever that may be, fused usually opposing ideas together.

Lightweight, looses trenches and tops made use of industrial fabrics, such as parachute silk. With drawstring waists and contrasting zippers, these garments are a developing trend for next summer. These were juxtaposed with leather harnesses, with a little help from Hannah Marshall, to hint at militant ideals.

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Menswear will always rely on classic tailoring techniques and the philosophical pieces that employed these principles stood out within Massey’s most marvellous collection. Lilac suits and shorts were given a less-formal look by teaming them with urban accessories like vests and knitted hats, or styled with an oversized flair.

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Colours were given the Massey treatment, teaming military green and old-English navy with striking yellow hues.

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The closing piece, a waxed-cotton creation masked by various compartments and backed with a rucksack, all made of the same material, served as a wearable fashion-forward item, but one which conveyed a sense of an oppressive society.

cmassey

With a collection covering so many ideas, it’s easy to see why Carolyn Massey is at the forefront of London menswear.

Photographs by Matt Bramford

cmassey1

Imagine what Evelyn Waugh’s Sebastian Flyte might wear if he was a) a man about London town circa now, clinic and b) a real person and not a tragic fictional character. Well, what is ed I telleth thee, it might just be Carolyn Massey’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection , or bits of it at any rate.

Massey’s collections concentrate on what it is to be a gentleman and how menswear has adapted itself in the past during times of civil unrest.

Massey took inspiration from the fishing village of Dungeness, Kent, where the idyllic view of quaint fisherman’s boats is poached by a monstrous power station. This concept, where English elegance meets an opposing force, whatever that may be, fused usually opposing ideas together.

Lightweight, looses trenches and tops made use of industrial fabrics, such as parachute silk. With drawstring waists and contrasting zippers, these garments are a developing trend for next summer. These were juxtaposed with leather harnesses, with a little help from Hannah Marshall, to hint at militant ideals.

cmassey2

cmassey3

Menswear will always rely on classic tailoring techniques and the philosophical pieces that employed these principles stood out within Massey’s most marvellous collection. Lilac suits and shorts were given a less-formal look by teaming them with urban accessories like vests and knitted hats, or styled with an oversized flair.

cmassey4

cmassey5

Colours were given the Massey treatment, teaming military green and old-English navy with striking yellow hues.

cmassey6

The closing piece, a waxed-cotton creation masked by various compartments and backed with a rucksack, all made of the same material, served as a wearable fashion-forward item, but one which conveyed a sense of an oppressive society.

cmassey

With a collection covering so many ideas, it’s easy to see why Carolyn Massey is at the forefront of London menswear.

Photographs by Matt Bramford

futureclassics7

Dramatically draping hoods, viagra approved garter-style leggings and a super feminine version of the athletic, check back-crossing, site shoulder pads are just a few of the key elements in Future Classics’ SS/10 catwalk on the breezy second floor of Somerset House. Brilliant draper that she is, designer Julie Wilkins channeled the freedom of movement that defines the comfort of our lazy summer days.

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A grey slouchy playsuit with all its gathers and turned up hems made us want to spend the winter with the heat cranked up (just kidding). We were HUGE fans of the draped hoods that appeared in almost every look (imagine them with sunnies for a touch of poolside femme fatale) although they do beg the question…would they still work when they’re not protecting your coif and are puddling across your chest?

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If the fluid draping of their various silks weren’t enough to turn up raise the mercury, their leggings were a virtual heat stroke! Manifesting in three forms, buttons running up the front and back, lycra garter style with angled stripes (may be for only the most brazen) and this girl’s favorite flavor the two-tone cream leggings with black zips at the front hips and calves.

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When we could be excused for being stoic in the face of yet another rendition of the polka dot, we are presented with a luxurious shorts, jacket, top combo of various sized sheers in big and small polka dots and stripes.

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Some of the fall’s 50′s silhouettes were reworked into full, gathered but super soft shoulders which remained far clear of the pointy tailoring of their last collection.

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What you might not get from the catwalk images are the playful volumes of shirts-on-upside-down elements gaping at the back of simple white dress dress shirts.

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Also not evident in the photos are athletic style football shoulder pads braced across the back of the shoulders. An edgy touch to the liquid femininity of the collection and a gentle nod to the all too common battle ready shoulders this season. Wonder if its removable?

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They were best paired with the swimsuit which was a hand drawn electric print against a black background, begging to be worn as a top with cut off jeans!

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Some of the jersey, full length pieces, with waistcoat were a bit belabored and looked like a bit too much fabric to carry off.

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Least successful were the big-at-the-top, big-at-the-bottom plaid trousers. If they didn’t look good on that leggy model, I shudder to think…

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In an absolutely stunning display of Wilkins’ talents she invokes all the glamour of a 50′s starlet in an ankle length silk dress with peekaboo shoulders and plunging neckline. Clever gathers at the hips hide pockets in this ballroom/boudoir gown. Martinis not included.

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The 50′s hollywood glamour was absent from hair and make up styling of this collection which was practically nude. The clothes made all the necessary statements.

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