Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Ellen Li
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Ellen Li.

The much anticipated Nova Chiu collection took the finale spot with Ones to Watch this season. We were of course very excited to see the progress of this label, which was much lauded at the LCF graduate shows last summer, and which we covered in a preview just last week. This time around Nova Chiu comprises of the design duo of Nova Chiu and designer Jeff Archer, whom she met whilst interning with Anna Sui in New York.

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones_to_Watch_Nova_Chiu_by_Barb_Royal
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

This was an expectedly colourful collection of clashing fabrics and colours that drew on tribal and peasant influences and cheerfully married them with the modern – witness brightly patterned leggings, dangling tassel earrings, intense strips of embroidery, triangular pleated waist peplums, furry all in one suits and zany oversized earmuffs. It certainly proved that Nova Chiu have a signature style to watch, and cemented their place as a fashion label much beloved of illustrators. We can’t wait to see what next season brings.

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
NOVA CHIU AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Nicola Ellen.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Nova_Chiu_by_Barb_Royal
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

Don’t forget to read our preview blog post about Nova Chiu.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Anna Sui, ,Barb Royal, ,Claire Jones, ,Ellen Li, ,Fashion Scout, ,Jeff Archer, ,lfw, ,new york, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nova Chiu, ,Ones To Watch

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Ones to Watch Preview

Nova Chiu S/S 2012 by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu S/S 2012 by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu’s creations look like they’ve leapt straight off the pages of ancient fairytales. Strong, architecturally inspired silhouettes burst with colour, texture, beads and print. Her LCF graduate collection was a case of Art reflecting reality, as Nova drew inspiration from her birthplace, the Yunnan province of China, also known as the ‘mystical, earthly paradise’ that is Shangri-La. The aptly named Shangri-Ladida collection mixed traditional Chinese and contemporary dressmaking methods, winning the prestigious Collection of The Year award and creating a buzz of interest around what the designer will do next.

Nova Chiu by Cassandra Mayers

All photography courtesy of Nova Chiu

Chiu will be starting as a brand-new designer this London Fashion Week, but that doesn’t mean she’s new to fashion. Nova has worked for big-name designers such as Anna Sui, Richard Nicoll, and Matthew Williamson, who are all known for their use of colour, texture and shape.

Nova Chiu by Abi Hall

Nova Chiu by Abi Hall

For her graduate collection, Nova Chui drew inspiration from China for more reasons than it being her birthplace. Feeling that although China produces most of the clothes sold around the world, not much is known about traditional and contemporary Chinese fashion. Nova decided she wanted to unveil unknown Chinese culture through her work, mixing traditional and contemporary techniques together in a collection fit for a modern-day princess.

Nova Chiu by Dark Lens

Nova Chiu by Dark Lens

Nova’s background in Surface Textiles is evident in her choice of modern and traditional prints, embellishments, and fabrics. I love her use of different textiles and creativity with red and yellow faux fur, which she embroidered into or pressed prints onto. Not many people could whip up a traditional Chinese ‘ink and wash’ painting method and place it on cotton and nylon to such a fresh effect. Jade and wooden beads poke through faux fur and run along edges as decoration. Sequins and different types of bells were also embedded in the fabric, meaning a girl wearing Nova Chiu will most definitely be seen and heard.

Nova Chiu by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu by Dana Bocai

The beauty of a graduate collection, and Nova’s in particular, is that burst of energy from the pages of a student sketchbook into a catwalk collection. With her sketchbook lovingly displayed on her website, visitors get a sneak peak at the work that went into her attention-grabbing graduate collection. The illustrator in me loves the detailed, feminine and surreal drawings Nova creates. This designer spends a lot of time illustrating.

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Cassandra Mayers

This London Fashion Week, I truly cannot wait to see what Nova has in store. Will it be a development of the graduate collection or a complete change? I think we can predict more fascinating displays of her expertise and playfulness with surface textiles. I know I want to see more of her beaded and embellished faux fur; seeing shimmering stones poking out from candy-coloured fur reminds me of some type of fairytale animal. Whatever colour, inspiration, shape or customer she chooses to create for, I’m sure this London Fashion Week will be heaven on earth for Nova Chiu.

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu will be debuting her A/W 2012 collection this London Fashion Week on Friday the 17th of February at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch show

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Abi Hall, ,Alia Gargum, ,Anna Sui, ,China, ,colour, ,Dana Bocai, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Faux Fur, ,Jo Ley, ,london, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Nova Chiu, ,Ones To Watch, ,Richard Nicholl, ,Shangri-Ladida, ,surface design, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

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