Krystof Strozyna

Aquaponics. ‘Aqua what?’ would be a reasonable response but you may well be hearing this word a lot more. One short answer is ‘promise’: the promise of cultivating delicious, approved organic fish and vegetables with minimal space and effort; the promise of helping humanity take the next great step in agriculture (forwards this time) in which we use our technology to make the most of nature’s intelligence rather than to ride roughshod over it; the promise of future fish’n’chips.

That’s a lot to live up to, search yet we need some big answers to the big questions we face: how do we feed ourselves as we approach 7 billion and likely scarcity of oil and gas? How do we save our precious topsoil and leave some fish in the sea? Where will the water come from?
Could aquaponics grow into one of these big answers?
Fish have been cultivated in captivity for millennia but this ‘aquaculture’ has often struggled with the sludgey problem of poop: fish defecate in their water which needs changed before it kills them – that can mean a LOT of water.
And since the early twentieth century vegetables have been grown in a liquid solution rather than in soil, and while this ‘hydroponics’ can be wonderfully productive it can suffer from high disease vulnerability.
In a lovely example of the much sought ‘win-win’ you can combine these two into aquaponics to cancel out their respective flaws: by growing fish in a tank and cycling their water through plant-filled grow beds you create ideal growing conditions for the plants, which then clean and oxygenate the water ready for its return to the fish.
The result, according to the aquaponics evangelists, is an incredibly productive system. Joel Malcolm, founder of Backyard Aquaponics, reports a six month crop of “50kg of fish and hundreds of kilograms of vegetables” in an 8m by 4m space in his backyard. To put this yield in perspective the U.S corn industry, pushing nature to the limits with fossil energy subsidies (fertilizer) manages around 1kg per square meter.  Joel Malcolm is reporting roughly 3kg of fish and 6kg plus of vegetables.
In fact beyond solving the waste issues, growing fish and vegetables together may be more productive for both than growing them separately.  Aquaponics practitioners report lower incidences of disease in their fish and higher growth rates in their plants than would be expected in separate aquaculture and hydroponics systems.  More research is needed, but these early reports suggest a symbiotic relationship with great promise.
So why have you not heard of aquaponics before? Perhaps it’s potential has languished unexplored for the same reason as many other smart green solutions: cheap oil has made us lazy and foolish. The chorus of voices from climate scientists to oil geologists grows loader by the day: we need to wise up, fast.

I hadn’t heard the term until March when I arrived at the Maya Mountain Research Farm to study permaculture – a design system for sustainable living – full of the big questions and desperate for some answers. Permaculture is about applying ecological principles to human life, so that we can meet our needs without killing ourselves, and although aquaponics wasn’t on the syllabus it perfectly embodies this. 
One night MMRF’s director, Christopher Nesbitt, sat the group down in front of a laptop to watch ‘the aquaponics DVD’, a charming home production from Joel Malcolm. Chris’s enthusiasm was palpable. This was ‘really cool’ he assured us, and through the shaky handycam walk arounds and strangely ‘oscar moment’ piano music, it became clear that it was. There was something to this.

The amateur roots of the system seem fascinating. There is some history of academic research in the field and a few businesses, but it appears that the driving force is now a global community of ‘hobbyists’. A few pioneers, notably Joel Malcolm in Australia (producer of the DVD), have experimented on a shoestring and shared their successes and failures with others around the world.   Aquaponics is growing up from the grassroots.

That’s how Chris became hooked: “When I discovered the website I was up until sunrise” he told me. “What Joel Malcolm has achieved is fantastic”. So Chris has been researching and preparing for a demonstration system at his agroforestry farm and teaching center. 
I decided to return for my fourth visit to help to design and build it.
The elements of an aquaponics system are pretty simple: fish tank; fish; grow beds; gravel; plants; water; water pump; piping; roof. The final, crucial, component brings itself: the bacteria that convert fish poop into plant food in the water (ammonia to nitrites, nitrites to nitrates). Ongoing inputs are fish-food, top-up water and electricity for the pump.
Crucially we are building a system – every part affects every other. We have to think systematically, in the true sense of the word, balancing the sizes of grow beds to fish tanks to available energy from the solar pump, etc.  Systems thinking will be even more important once it is up and running, tweaking the elements until the ecology ‘snaps’ into place.

In the model we have chosen the water gravity-feeds from an overflow in the fish tank, down through the grow-beds, and then drains into a sump tank, from where it is pumped back at intervals to the fish tank, causing the process to start again. Instead of pumping constantly the system will cycle on and off – an important energy-saver as we will be relying on solar PV for the pump. 
I arrived in late August to find ground prepared by James and Herminio, long time MMRF employees and the real construction experts. It is impressive what these two achieve in a day. The roofing, to protect the system from tropical downpours, went up quickly, a solid wooden frame bolted to concrete.  With a history of hurricanes and no shortage of wood, triangulation is the name of the game at MMRF and the buildings have a solid, chunky elegance. 
With the frame completed we spent a day in the blistering sun painting it in burnt oil (courtesy of the local car mechanic) to help ward off hungry termites, blackening like derrick workers in a big strike. 
Now we await delivery of our custom made tanks. We had ordered them in Spanish Lookout, a Menonite town four hours drive north – Iowa with palm trees as Chris describes it.  It is Belize’s hub for agricultural supply and we were confident we could find what we needed. Having looked at premolded plastic feeding troughs it was as cheap – and far more satisfying – to order bespoke tanks from Mr Penner, of Penner Metalworks Ltd. They will be sexy, shiney and crafted by hand.
So we are getting there. Three weeks into the project we are almost roofed and ready to wire and plumb. This will be the really fun part, piping the tanks together and installing the solar system. Watch this space to see how we get on.
Aquaponics. ‘Aqua what?’ would be a reasonable response but you may well be hearing this word a lot more. One short answer is ‘promise’: the promise of cultivating delicious, thumb organic fish and vegetables with minimal space and effort; the promise of helping humanity take the next great step in agriculture (forwards this time) in which we use our technology to make the most of nature’s intelligence rather than to ride roughshod over it; the promise of future fish’n’chips.

That’s a lot to live up to, yet we need some big answers to the big questions we face: how do we feed ourselves as we approach 7 billion and likely scarcity of oil and gas? How do we save our precious topsoil and leave some fish in the sea? Where will the water come from?
Could aquaponics grow into one of these big answers?
Fish have been cultivated in captivity for millennia but this ‘aquaculture’ has often struggled with the sludgey problem of poop: fish defecate in their water which needs changed before it kills them – that can mean a LOT of water.
And since the early twentieth century vegetables have been grown in a liquid solution rather than in soil, and while this ‘hydroponics’ can be wonderfully productive it can suffer from high disease vulnerability.
In a lovely example of the much sought ‘win-win’ you can combine these two into aquaponics to cancel out their respective flaws: by growing fish in a tank and cycling their water through plant-filled grow beds you create ideal growing conditions for the plants, which then clean and oxygenate the water ready for its return to the fish.
The result, according to the aquaponics evangelists, is an incredibly productive system. Joel Malcolm, founder of Backyard Aquaponics, reports a six month crop of “50kg of fish and hundreds of kilograms of vegetables” in an 8m by 4m space in his backyard. To put this yield in perspective the U.S corn industry, pushing nature to the limits with fossil energy subsidies (fertilizer) manages around 1kg per square meter.  Joel Malcolm is reporting roughly 3kg of fish and 6kg plus of vegetables.
In fact beyond solving the waste issues, growing fish and vegetables together may be more productive for both than growing them separately.  Aquaponics practitioners report lower incidences of disease in their fish and higher growth rates in their plants than would be expected in separate aquaculture and hydroponics systems.  More research is needed, but these early reports suggest a symbiotic relationship with great promise.
So why have you not heard of aquaponics before? Perhaps it’s potential has languished unexplored for the same reason as many other smart green solutions: cheap oil has made us lazy and foolish. The chorus of voices from climate scientists to oil geologists grows loader by the day: we need to wise up, fast.

I hadn’t heard the term until March when I arrived at the Maya Mountain Research Farm to study permaculture – a design system for sustainable living – full of the big questions and desperate for some answers. Permaculture is about applying ecological principles to human life, so that we can meet our needs without killing ourselves, and although aquaponics wasn’t on the syllabus it perfectly embodies this. 
One night MMRF’s director, Christopher Nesbitt, sat the group down in front of a laptop to watch ‘the aquaponics DVD’, a charming home production from Joel Malcolm. Chris’s enthusiasm was palpable. This was ‘really cool’ he assured us, and through the shaky handycam walk arounds and strangely ‘oscar moment’ piano music, it became clear that it was. There was something to this.

The amateur roots of the system seem fascinating. There is some history of academic research in the field and a few businesses, but it appears that the driving force is now a global community of ‘hobbyists’. A few pioneers, notably Joel Malcolm in Australia (producer of the DVD), have experimented on a shoestring and shared their successes and failures with others around the world.   Aquaponics is growing up from the grassroots.

That’s how Chris became hooked: “When I discovered the website I was up until sunrise” he told me. “What Joel Malcolm has achieved is fantastic”. So Chris has been researching and preparing for a demonstration system at his agroforestry farm and teaching center. 
I decided to return for my fourth visit to help to design and build it.
The elements of an aquaponics system are pretty simple: fish tank; fish; grow beds; gravel; plants; water; water pump; piping; roof. The final, crucial, component brings itself: the bacteria that convert fish poop into plant food in the water (ammonia to nitrites, nitrites to nitrates). Ongoing inputs are fish-food, top-up water and electricity for the pump.
Crucially we are building a system – every part affects every other. We have to think systematically, in the true sense of the word, balancing the sizes of grow beds to fish tanks to available energy from the solar pump, etc.  Systems thinking will be even more important once it is up and running, tweaking the elements until the ecology ‘snaps’ into place.

In the model we have chosen the water gravity-feeds from an overflow in the fish tank, down through the grow-beds, and then drains into a sump tank, from where it is pumped back at intervals to the fish tank, causing the process to start again. Instead of pumping constantly the system will cycle on and off – an important energy-saver as we will be relying on solar PV for the pump. 
I arrived in late August to find ground prepared by James and Herminio, long time MMRF employees and the real construction experts. It is impressive what these two achieve in a day. The roofing, to protect the system from tropical downpours, went up quickly, a solid wooden frame bolted to concrete.  With a history of hurricanes and no shortage of wood, triangulation is the name of the game at MMRF and the buildings have a solid, chunky elegance. 
With the frame completed we spent a day in the blistering sun painting it in burnt oil (courtesy of the local car mechanic) to help ward off hungry termites, blackening like derrick workers in a big strike. 
Now we await delivery of our custom made tanks. We had ordered them in Spanish Lookout, a Menonite town four hours drive north – Iowa with palm trees as Chris describes it.  It is Belize’s hub for agricultural supply and we were confident we could find what we needed. Having looked at premolded plastic feeding troughs it was as cheap – and far more satisfying – to order bespoke tanks from Mr Penner, of Penner Metalworks Ltd. They will be sexy, shiney and crafted by hand.
So we are getting there. Three weeks into the project we are almost roofed and ready to wire and plumb. This will be the really fun part, piping the tanks together and installing the solar system. Watch this space to see how we get on.
Aquaponics. ‘Aqua what?’ would be a reasonable response but you may well be hearing this word a lot more. One short answer is ‘promise’: the promise of cultivating delicious, advice organic fish and vegetables with minimal space and effort; the promise of helping humanity take the next great step in agriculture (forwards this time) in which we use our technology to make the most of nature’s intelligence rather than to ride roughshod over it; the promise of future fish’n’chips.

That’s a lot to live up to, nurse yet we need some big answers to the big questions we face: how do we feed ourselves as we approach 7 billion and likely scarcity of oil and gas? How do we save our precious topsoil and leave some fish in the sea? Where will the water come from?
Could aquaponics grow into one of these big answers?
Fish have been cultivated in captivity for millennia but this ‘aquaculture’ has often struggled with the sludgey problem of poop: fish defecate in their water which needs changed before it kills them – that can mean a LOT of water.
And since the early twentieth century vegetables have been grown in a liquid solution rather than in soil, purchase and while this ‘hydroponics’ can be wonderfully productive it can suffer from high disease vulnerability.
In a lovely example of the much sought ‘win-win’ you can combine these two into aquaponics to cancel out their respective flaws: by growing fish in a tank and cycling their water through plant-filled grow beds you create ideal growing conditions for the plants, which then clean and oxygenate the water ready for its return to the fish.
The result, according to the aquaponics evangelists, is an incredibly productive system. Joel Malcolm, founder of Backyard Aquaponics, reports a six month crop of “50kg of fish and hundreds of kilograms of vegetables” in an 8m by 4m space in his backyard. To put this yield in perspective the U.S corn industry, pushing nature to the limits with fossil energy subsidies (fertilizer) manages around 1kg per square meter.  Joel Malcolm is reporting roughly 3kg of fish and 6kg plus of vegetables.
In fact beyond solving the waste issues, growing fish and vegetables together may be more productive for both than growing them separately.  Aquaponics practitioners report lower incidences of disease in their fish and higher growth rates in their plants than would be expected in separate aquaculture and hydroponics systems.  More research is needed, but these early reports suggest a symbiotic relationship with great promise.
So why have you not heard of aquaponics before? Perhaps it’s potential has languished unexplored for the same reason as many other smart green solutions: cheap oil has made us lazy and foolish. The chorus of voices from climate scientists to oil geologists grows loader by the day: we need to wise up, fast.

I hadn’t heard the term until March when I arrived at the Maya Mountain Research Farm to study permaculture – a design system for sustainable living – full of the big questions and desperate for some answers. Permaculture is about applying ecological principles to human life, so that we can meet our needs without killing ourselves, and although aquaponics wasn’t on the syllabus it perfectly embodies this. 
One night MMRF’s director, Christopher Nesbitt, sat the group down in front of a laptop to watch ‘the aquaponics DVD’, a charming home production from Joel Malcolm. Chris’s enthusiasm was palpable. This was ‘really cool’ he assured us, and through the shaky handycam walk arounds and strangely ‘oscar moment’ piano music, it became clear that it was. There was something to this.

The amateur roots of the system seem fascinating. There is some history of academic research in the field and a few businesses, but it appears that the driving force is now a global community of ‘hobbyists’. A few pioneers, notably Joel Malcolm in Australia (producer of the DVD), have experimented on a shoestring and shared their successes and failures with others around the world.   Aquaponics is growing up from the grassroots.

That’s how Chris became hooked: “When I discovered the website I was up until sunrise” he told me. “What Joel Malcolm has achieved is fantastic”. So Chris has been researching and preparing for a demonstration system at his agroforestry farm and teaching center. 
I decided to return for my fourth visit to help to design and build it.
The elements of an aquaponics system are pretty simple: fish tank; fish; grow beds; gravel; plants; water; water pump; piping; roof. The final, crucial, component brings itself: the bacteria that convert fish poop into plant food in the water (ammonia to nitrites, nitrites to nitrates). Ongoing inputs are fish-food, top-up water and electricity for the pump.
Crucially we are building a system – every part affects every other. We have to think systematically, in the true sense of the word, balancing the sizes of grow beds to fish tanks to available energy from the solar pump, etc.  Systems thinking will be even more important once it is up and running, tweaking the elements until the ecology ‘snaps’ into place.

In the model we have chosen the water gravity-feeds from an overflow in the fish tank, down through the grow-beds, and then drains into a sump tank, from where it is pumped back at intervals to the fish tank, causing the process to start again. Instead of pumping constantly the system will cycle on and off – an important energy-saver as we will be relying on solar PV for the pump. 
I arrived in late August to find ground prepared by James and Herminio, long time MMRF employees and the real construction experts. It is impressive what these two achieve in a day. The roofing, to protect the system from tropical downpours, went up quickly, a solid wooden frame bolted to concrete.  With a history of hurricanes and no shortage of wood, triangulation is the name of the game at MMRF and the buildings have a solid, chunky elegance. 
With the frame completed we spent a day in the blistering sun painting it in burnt oil (courtesy of the local car mechanic) to help ward off hungry termites, blackening like derrick workers in a big strike. 
Now we await delivery of our custom made tanks. We had ordered them in Spanish Lookout, a Menonite town four hours drive north – Iowa with palm trees as Chris describes it.  It is Belize’s hub for agricultural supply and we were confident we could find what we needed. Having looked at premolded plastic feeding troughs it was as cheap – and far more satisfying – to order bespoke tanks from Mr Penner, of Penner Metalworks Ltd. They will be sexy, shiney and crafted by hand.
So we are getting there. Three weeks into the project we are almost roofed and ready to wire and plumb. This will be the really fun part, piping the tanks together and installing the solar system. Watch this space to see how we get on.
Aquaponics. ‘Aqua what?’ would be a reasonable response but you may well be hearing this word a lot more. One short answer is ‘promise’: the promise of cultivating delicious, order organic fish and vegetables with minimal space and effort; the promise of helping humanity take the next great step in agriculture (forwards this time) in which we use our technology to make the most of nature’s intelligence rather than to ride roughshod over it; the promise of future fish’n’chips.

That’s a lot to live up to, tadalafil yet we need some big answers to the big questions we face: how do we feed ourselves as we approach 7 billion and likely scarcity of oil and gas? How do we save our precious topsoil and leave some fish in the sea? Where will the water come from?
Could aquaponics grow into one of these big answers?
Fish have been cultivated in captivity for millennia but this ‘aquaculture’ has often struggled with the sludgey problem of poop: fish defecate in their water which needs changed before it kills them – that can mean a LOT of water.
And since the early twentieth century vegetables have been grown in a liquid solution rather than in soil, and while this ‘hydroponics’ can be wonderfully productive it can suffer from high disease vulnerability.
In a lovely example of the much sought ‘win-win’ you can combine these two into aquaponics to cancel out their respective flaws: by growing fish in a tank and cycling their water through plant-filled grow beds you create ideal growing conditions for the plants, which then clean and oxygenate the water ready for its return to the fish.
The result, according to the aquaponics evangelists, is an incredibly productive system. Joel Malcolm, founder of Backyard Aquaponics, reports a six month crop of “50kg of fish and hundreds of kilograms of vegetables” in an 8m by 4m space in his backyard. To put this yield in perspective the U.S corn industry, pushing nature to the limits with fossil energy subsidies (fertilizer) manages around 1kg per square meter.  Joel Malcolm is reporting roughly 3kg of fish and 6kg plus of vegetables.
In fact beyond solving the waste issues, growing fish and vegetables together may be more productive for both than growing them separately.  Aquaponics practitioners report lower incidences of disease in their fish and higher growth rates in their plants than would be expected in separate aquaculture and hydroponics systems.  More research is needed, but these early reports suggest a symbiotic relationship with great promise.
So why have you not heard of aquaponics before? Perhaps it’s potential has languished unexplored for the same reason as many other smart green solutions: cheap oil has made us lazy and foolish. The chorus of voices from climate scientists to oil geologists grows loader by the day: we need to wise up, fast.

I hadn’t heard the term until March when I arrived at the Maya Mountain Research Farm to study permaculture – a design system for sustainable living – full of the big questions and desperate for some answers. Permaculture is about applying ecological principles to human life, so that we can meet our needs without killing ourselves, and although aquaponics wasn’t on the syllabus it perfectly embodies this. 
One night MMRF’s director, Christopher Nesbitt, sat the group down in front of a laptop to watch ‘the aquaponics DVD’, a charming home production from Joel Malcolm. Chris’s enthusiasm was palpable. This was ‘really cool’ he assured us, and through the shaky handycam walk arounds and strangely ‘oscar moment’ piano music, it became clear that it was. There was something to this.

The amateur roots of the system seem fascinating. There is some history of academic research in the field and a few businesses, but it appears that the driving force is now a global community of ‘hobbyists’. A few pioneers, notably Joel Malcolm in Australia (producer of the DVD), have experimented on a shoestring and shared their successes and failures with others around the world.   Aquaponics is growing up from the grassroots.

That’s how Chris became hooked: “When I discovered the website I was up until sunrise” he told me. “What Joel Malcolm has achieved is fantastic”. So Chris has been researching and preparing for a demonstration system at his agroforestry farm and teaching center. 
I decided to return for my fourth visit to help to design and build it.
The elements of an aquaponics system are pretty simple: fish tank; fish; grow beds; gravel; plants; water; water pump; piping; roof. The final, crucial, component brings itself: the bacteria that convert fish poop into plant food in the water (ammonia to nitrites, nitrites to nitrates). Ongoing inputs are fish-food, top-up water and electricity for the pump.
Crucially we are building a system – every part affects every other. We have to think systematically, in the true sense of the word, balancing the sizes of grow beds to fish tanks to available energy from the solar pump, etc.  Systems thinking will be even more important once it is up and running, tweaking the elements until the ecology ‘snaps’ into place.

In the model we have chosen the water gravity-feeds from an overflow in the fish tank, down through the grow-beds, and then drains into a sump tank, from where it is pumped back at intervals to the fish tank, causing the process to start again. Instead of pumping constantly the system will cycle on and off – an important energy-saver as we will be relying on solar PV for the pump. 
I arrived in late August to find ground prepared by James and Herminio, long time MMRF employees and the real construction experts. It is impressive what these two achieve in a day. The roofing, to protect the system from tropical downpours, went up quickly, a solid wooden frame bolted to concrete.  With a history of hurricanes and no shortage of wood, triangulation is the name of the game at MMRF and the buildings have a solid, chunky elegance. 
With the frame completed we spent a day in the blistering sun painting it in burnt oil (courtesy of the local car mechanic) to help ward off hungry termites, blackening like derrick workers in a big strike. 
Now we await delivery of our custom made tanks. We had ordered them in Spanish Lookout, a Menonite town four hours drive north – Iowa with palm trees as Chris describes it.  It is Belize’s hub for agricultural supply and we were confident we could find what we needed. Having looked at premolded plastic feeding troughs it was as cheap – and far more satisfying – to order bespoke tanks from Mr Penner, of Penner Metalworks Ltd. They will be sexy, shiney and crafted by hand.
So we are getting there. Three weeks into the project we are almost roofed and ready to wire and plumb. This will be the really fun part, piping the tanks together and installing the solar system. Watch this space to see how we get on.

The Parachute provides stability whilst free-falling in mid air, approved in the work of CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN however, clinic it is not stability that inspires his designs. Conscious of the unpredictable, and even volatile, current conditions of our climate, the garments have been made through the appropriation of old military parachutes. With the Earths sources and materials becoming increasingly scarce, his contemporary designs reform our past’s waste into functional and elegant macs, ponchos and parkas.

Following this thread of transformation, the delicate aesthetic of RAEBURN’s garments is quite a world away from the brutality of the materials original military function. The almost transparent qualities of the garments possess a fragility and odd resemblance to the visuals of a jellyfish.

Bending the lines of the silhouette with the fabrics play on light, the figure becomes fluid and elusive, deceitfully fragile looking when in reality, cleverly protected from day-to-day urban living.

Sustainable clothing’ can’t be just another buzzword that will come and go with the fashions; it is a reaction to a concern and has occurred due to designers having the initiative to take responsibility for the things they produce. Our environment will constantly be changing, and only through sensitive and innovative design will our industries continue.

By unearthing the fragments of our past RAEBURN manages to tailor a present equipped for flux and adventure. Adapting a device that functions as a precaution to a dangerous collision, between the impact of man falling hard down to earth, isn’t only a revealing metaphor for the reality shock of industry resource exploitation, it simultaneously demonstrates the ability to successfully (and stylishly) do something about it. These clothes are a sign of combat, ruthless self-critique and action.

The Parachute provides stability whilst free-falling in mid air, more about in the work of CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN however, sickness it is not stability that inspires his designs. Conscious of the unpredictable, and even volatile, current conditions of our climate, the garments have been made through the appropriation of old military parachutes. With the Earths sources and materials becoming increasingly scarce, his contemporary designs reform our past’s waste into functional and elegant macs, ponchos and parkas.

Following this thread of transformation, the delicate aesthetic of RAEBURN’s garments is quite a world away from the brutality of the materials original military function. The almost transparent qualities of the garments possess a fragility and odd resemblance to the visuals of a jellyfish.

Bending the lines of the silhouette with the fabrics play on light, the figure becomes fluid and elusive, deceitfully fragile looking when in reality, cleverly protected from day-to-day urban living.

Sustainable clothing’ can’t be just another buzzword that will come and go with the fashions; it is a reaction to a concern and has occurred due to designers having the initiative to take responsibility for the things they produce. Our environment will constantly be changing, and only through sensitive and innovative design will our industries continue.

By unearthing the fragments of our past RAEBURN manages to tailor a present equipped for flux and adventure. Adapting a device that functions as a precaution to a dangerous collision, between the impact of man falling hard down to earth, isn’t only a revealing metaphor for the reality shock of industry resource exploitation, it simultaneously demonstrates the ability to successfully (and stylishly) do something about it. These clothes are a sign of combat, ruthless self-critique and action.

The Parachute provides stability whilst free-falling in mid air, stuff in the work of CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN however, it is not stability that inspires his designs. Conscious of the unpredictable, and even volatile, current conditions of our climate, the garments have been made through the appropriation of old military parachutes. With the Earths sources and materials becoming increasingly scarce, his contemporary designs reform our past’s waste into functional and elegant macs, ponchos and parkas.

Following this thread of transformation, the delicate aesthetic of RAEBURN’s garments is quite a world away from the brutality of the materials original military function. The almost transparent qualities of the garments possess a fragility and odd resemblance to the visuals of a jellyfish.

Bending the lines of the silhouette with the fabrics play on light, the figure becomes fluid and elusive, deceitfully fragile looking when in reality, cleverly protected from day-to-day urban living.

Sustainable clothing’ can’t be just another buzzword that will come and go with the fashions; it is a reaction to a concern and has occurred due to designers having the initiative to take responsibility for the things they produce. Our environment will constantly be changing, and only through sensitive and innovative design will our industries continue.

By unearthing the fragments of our past RAEBURN manages to tailor a present equipped for flux and adventure. Adapting a device that functions as a precaution to a dangerous collision, between the impact of man falling hard down to earth, isn’t only a revealing metaphor for the reality shock of industry resource exploitation, it simultaneously demonstrates the ability to successfully (and stylishly) do something about it. These clothes are a sign of combat, ruthless self-critique and action.

The Parachute provides stability whilst free-falling in mid air, visit this in the work of CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN however, order it is not stability that inspires his designs. Conscious of the unpredictable, check and even volatile, current conditions of our climate, the garments have been made through the appropriation of old military parachutes. With the Earths sources and materials becoming increasingly scarce, his contemporary designs reform our past’s waste into functional and elegant macs, ponchos and parkas.

Following this thread of transformation, the delicate aesthetic of RAEBURN’s garments is quite a world away from the brutality of the materials original military function. The almost transparent qualities of the garments possess a fragility and odd resemblance to the visuals of a jellyfish.

Bending the lines of the silhouette with the fabrics play on light, the figure becomes fluid and elusive, deceitfully fragile looking when in reality, cleverly protected from day-to-day urban living.

Sustainable clothing’ can’t be just another buzzword that will come and go with the fashions; it is a reaction to a concern and has occurred due to designers having the initiative to take responsibility for the things they produce. Our environment will constantly be changing, and only through sensitive and innovative design will our industries continue.

By unearthing the fragments of our past RAEBURN manages to tailor a present equipped for flux and adventure. Adapting a device that functions as a precaution to a dangerous collision, between the impact of man falling hard down to earth, isn’t only a revealing metaphor for the reality shock of industry resource exploitation, it simultaneously demonstrates the ability to successfully (and stylishly) do something about it. These clothes are a sign of combat, ruthless self-critique and action.

There are examples of design so sufficient in its function that one finds it difficult to think around (or out) of it. If I look about my house and try to wonder how the objects that fill it came to be there, order I come to realise that if these things were to suddenly fall apart, approved I wouldn’t know how to put them back together. What could replace an object as anonymous and indiscreet as an iron? Why bother spending the time thinking about an alternative, buy more about when the original already exists and de-creases your blouse to perfection? I’m somewhat put at edge by my own passivity.

Good design could be argued to be those objects that become timeless, seamlessly slipping into your life, untouchable to the new ideas of those who propose to alter them. Though as I look at the objects exhibited in the 2009 Design Festival, it isn’t the objects I already depend on, or feel I can’t live without that excites me, it is those that disrupt and ask me to re-think how I live.
The two exhibitions that really addressed these concerns, in fun and imaginative ways, were the KithKin collective and a group of RCA graduates from the ‘Design Interactions’ course. KithKin presented a number of young designers showcasing diverse possibilities in design. Such as, the attempt to propose a reality were objects can speak (Amina Nazari) and jewellery made out of the hair and ashes of deceased loved ones, to facilitate alternative methods of mourning (Anna Schwamborn).

Yan Lu’s ‘Poor Little Fish’, plays with the consumer’s emotions by entangling the ethical implications of water waste, with the additional potential of the distress of a parched fish. Depending on the duration you take getting a glass of purified water, at the same time a different pipe gradually draws out water from the fishes bowl, confronting the consumer with the necessity to consider the amount of water they could potentially waste. –Don’t worry; the fishes’ tank is designed to fill up immediately when it gets too low, so no unnecessary accidents!

The designs by the RCA graduates in the exhibition, ‘Disruptive Thinking’, seek to embed alternate living modes in line with those that are already accepted. Vanessa Harden’s ‘The Subversive Gardener’, subtly re-modifies ordinary work attire into an outfit that conceals gadgets assisting guerrilla gardening. Being a busy business wo/man, who doesn’t have the time to cart gardening tools around the city, no longer provides an excuse not to get those plants back into the urban landscape. Harden’s renovated city bags come with a contraption that discreetly makes a small hole in the grass and uses a conveyor belt to smoothly pot in a plant. All you have to do is put your bag down on the ground, push a button disguised as a handle fastener, and wait a few seconds whilst you take a break to chat on your mobile.

No-one would fault you for claiming the ability to predict a few of the key strokes that appeared in Polish designer’s Krystof Strozyna‘s new collection.

The now familiar lacquered (and occasionally sewn-in) jewellery were accompanied by the eponymous mini ‘n moulded dress contagion -along with exposed zips – that afflicted this season’s catwalks.

Razor-sharp origami folds distorted the digitally printed silks to create totally new compositions, no rx most beautifully applied in minimal slivers on long sleeved and occasionally floor skimming dresses.

The devoutly geometric and symmetrical collection of digitally printed hot desert hues hovered atop their black backgrounds like a velvet painting.
While some pieces possessed the intensity of a fiery oil field, troche most of the tightly tailored pieces shimmered in the tonal pinks of a desert animal’s underbelly.

The slippery chemise dresses were expertly cut as was a multi-paneled jacket with its strong shoulders and drapey viscose tights (the perfect year round friend!).

Krystof Strozyna’s SS 2010 collection was worlds apart from SS 2009, which was all organic, frayed wovens and stiff organzas. And it was far change from the Tron-inspired white on black lines and muted grey palette of his last collection with its roominess and laser cut separates.

The makeup was right in step with a distinct Daryl-Hannah-in-Blade-Runner combo of slick-backed hair and rascal eyes. Seashells, bits of bone?, Whatever the lacquered wood cuffs and navel grazing necklaces were inspired by they were an elegant compliment to the sharp lightness of the slippery clothes.

Inarguably elegant, the collection managed to mix futuristic femme with archeological ornamental. Bravo!

Written by Sabrina Morrison on Friday October 2nd, 2009 8:09 am

Categories ,Krystof Strozyna, ,London Fashion Week, ,Portico Rooms, ,September 2009, ,Somerset House

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