Rabbit – AmeliasMagazine

Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Ellie Sutton.

For this season Peter Jensen was inspired by the force of nature that was Nina Simone, thumb picking on the many facets of her legendary life for inspiration, prescription including her overwhelming devil-may-care attitude. Presented in the Portico Rooms to a backdrop of classical music played live on a grand piano by Maria Marchant, this was a confident collection from a man who is assured of his place in the pantheon of established fashion designers.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Peter-Jensen SS-2012 by-Barb-Royal
Peter Jensen SS-2012 by Barb Royal.

Against the kitsch decor of a gold potted palm tree and signature neon bunny Peter Jensen sent out his girls in rabbit eared shades from Fabris Lane and elegant headscarfs by Bernstock Speirs: broderie anglaise, pan collars, pencil skirts with peplums, big hoop earrings by Erickson Beamon and ankle socks with t-bars all alluded to Nina Simone‘s early days as a good church going Southern girl.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Peter Jensen S/S 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

Then from the 70s Peter Jensen brought us relaxed gold lame jerseywear teamed with swinging gold clasp handbags and bow decorated clutches. Sexy figure hugging scribble leopard print pants were teamed with lightweight gold cable knit jumpers. A colourful block print safari on a slim trench coat and crop-legged suit was inspired by the flickering TV static of constant attention on Nina Simone, from both audience and media.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

A cheeky bi colour repeat parrot print gave a modern edge to a bare-shouldered peplum dress. Flounces running down the shoulders of a denim blue bib dress and frills just below the waist of a full gingham skirt were indicative of the cheeky feel that ran throughout this collection and was equally matched in the relaxed glamour stakes – pure Peter Jensen in other words.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Peter Jensen S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Peter Jensen SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Spotted in the audience, a man with the most amazing twirly beard.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday September 26th, 2011 6:07 pm

Categories ,79s, ,Barb Royal, ,Bernstock Speirs, ,Bunnies, ,Clutch Bags, ,Ellie Sutton, ,Erickson Beamon, ,Fabris Lane, ,Frills, ,Gold, ,Leopard Print, ,lfw, ,live music, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Marchant, ,Nina, ,Nina Simone, ,Pan Collars, ,pencil skirt, ,Peter Jensen, ,piano, ,Portico Rooms, ,Rabbit, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Safari, ,Somerset House, ,Village press

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Peter Jensen by Dana Bocai

The V&A‘s Fashion in Motion programme offers members of the public a rare chance to attend a full-throttle catwalk show, set against the dramatic backdrop of the glorious Raphael Gallery. The production values are the same, if not greater, and there’s the same fashion buzz with people in silly outfits and fights for the front row.

Peter Jensen by Eleanor Shore

All photography by Matt Bramford

The latest FIM celebrated Peter Jensen‘s tenth year in fashion. By the time I arrived at the V&A, an enormous queue had already formed and was spilling over into the grand reception, ready to greet me as I legged it inside. The cavernous Raphael Gallery holds hundreds, though, so I wasn’t too worried about getting a good spot. The room filled up quickly but, as there had already been three shows that day, there was a distinct lack of photographers in the ‘pit’. I took the opportunity to stand there for a change, a view that I don’t often get at fashion shows, and it was a real treat. I tend to avoid this area due to the gruesome cretins that tend to populate it at fashion week, and the shots you get tend to be pretty similar to the other 250 photographers trying to get images. But standing right in the centre, with no elbows blocking your view, you really get a sense for the complete package, that you don’t even get on the front row.

The lights fell and silence descended as a pretty eccentric mix of songs, that had been stitched together, boomed from the stereo and the first model appeared. This was to be a celebration of Jensen’s career so far, and so the ensembles on offer represented Jensen’s recent collections. His playful, upbeat style shone on this dramatic catwalk.

Peter Jensen by Janneke de Jong

Long-term collaborator and stylist Lucy Ewing styled this event and had selected the archival pieces that were on offer. Models wore short, slapstick wigs over the top of their own flowing locks, sometimes in contrasting colours. This linked the collection together nicely. Pieces included Peter’s inimitable rabbit motif emblazoned on translucent dresses, low sweetheart necklines teamed with mini-skirts, crisp tailoring in pastille colours, sheers fabrics embellished with sequins, metallics, madras-esque prints (seen on the catwalk only this September), glittery nipple covers seen through opaque smocks, floral prints and Linda Farrow collaboration rabbit sunglasses.

Peter Jensen by Vicky Smith

Music and fashion were both reflective of Jensen‘s unique style. It was a great show that earned a deserved wave of applause at the end. I couldn’t help feeling a tiny bit disappointed, though. While I admire Peter Jensen and his playful collections, this show lacked the spectacle I’d come to expect from Fashion in Motion – previous shows from Erdem, Osman Yousefzada and KENZO (to name a few) packed a much bigger punch than this one did. But I can think of worse ways to spend a Friday evening, so I shan’t complain.