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Amelia’s Magazine | Ashish: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Ashish S/S 2014 by Gabriel Ayala

I’m probably not the first person to tell you that the main catwalk space at Somerset House has been remodelled for the S/S 2014 season. Instead of the archetypal singular catwalk, a horseshoe shape has taken its place. If you’re in the cheap seats, as I inexplicably (!) was, then you only see the models disappear through the second door, leaving you with the glorious sights of shoulder blades and arses. The models only walk past you once. I now realise why a catwalk is a catwalk. Not all pieces are symmetrical, are they? Imagine seeing one side of a frock and thinking ‘yep, that’ll sell. I’ll take 100 please’ only to get it in store to find the other side is smeared in dog shit, or has ‘TWAT’ written up the side, or something. YES I know you’d see a look book or view it in a showroom, but that’s beside the point.

Ashish S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman

Anyway, the set up wasn’t going to stop me enjoying Ashish‘s outing on Saturday. A rare, hedonistic atmosphere filled the air as techno music warmed up the crowds. Inspiration this season came from the off license and tribes, with emphasis on a sportier aesthetic compared to A/W 2013′s smocks and floor-length dresses. Sequins were aplenty as per, but this time appearing on ripped denims, cropped vests and polo-shirt shapes.

Ashish S/S 2014 by Gabriel Ayala

All photography by Matt Bramford

Ashish S/S 2014 by Marina Muun

A riot of patterns appeared across various pieces: zebra, tiger, angular lines, tartans, stripes; no design facet was left unturned. Shoppers, modelled as carrier bags but fashioned in fabrics and sequins, mocked various retail outlets – the ‘Tesco‘ version left attendees in fits of laughter, while the Marks and Spencer-inspired ‘S&M’ brought whoops and cheers. Tribal jewellery and headpieces complimented certain looks and every model was visually stimulating. Ashish‘s is a unique aesthetic that doesn’t appeal to everybody, but certainly appeals to me and my camera.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday September 18th, 2013 1:26 pm

Categories ,Ashish, ,catwalk, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Laura Hickman, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,review, ,Sequins, ,SS14, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Belle Sauvage: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Preview Interview

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

The Belle Sauvage label was launched in 2008 by design duo Virginia Ferreira and Chris Neuman, who are based between London and Luxemboug. Combining avant-garde silhouettes with intricate digital prints, their signature look is sleek, sophisticated and feminine. I caught up with the designers in advance of their London Fashion Week catwalk show next week.

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Harry Williams.

You’re known for your amazing digital prints: what training do you have?
Virginia studied Fashion Design (Diploma course) at the London College of Fashion and Chris has an B.A in Media Design and an M.A in Arts (Filmmaking).

How did you both meet and decide to work together, and what is the process behind the creation of each collection?
We met in Argentina and them moved to London to finish our studies. The initial idea was to combine both of our talents and interests. Apart form the designing, Chris goes on drawing the artwork for all of our labels and both designers now create four collections a year. Next to our two labels we also provide design concepts and artwork through our third line Vicious East mainly sold in Japan and China.

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Karina Järv.

As we work on so many collections a year the design process is quite organised. We always start on the main line Belle Sauvage. It has the least compromises regarding design as it is high end Ready To Wear and targets fashion forward thinking individuals. We then adapt the design to the diffusion lines, keeping the markets, audience and budgets in mind.

How do you work between London and Luxembourg?
We do all our professional work in London. This goes from sales meetings to sampling. As we manufacture in Spain and Portugal apart from the U.K we have to move around quite a bit and find it great to have a relaxing home in Luxembourg to calm down form time to time.

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Sara Gelfgren.

What made you decide to present your collection in London?
We started the brand in 2008 in London and were grounded in the new upcoming designers. We had our first press agency in London and that is really where everything started. London Fashion Week is really not that important in terms of sales but it is a good place to present your new collection. London is really about the crowd. We love the fashion people in the city, and are happy to be part of it.

For A/W 2013 you have drawn inspiration from the gothic to the baroque to the renaissance, including motifs of tigers and dragons: where did you look for imagery and ideas?
You can find both motifs in Asian philosophy. They are opposite symbols and we liked the idea behind it as we love both creatures. As we have baroque influences in the line, we see it as the Asian counterpart of our western world.

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Trims are an important part of your designs: how do they fit in with your more tailored and sleek fitting aesthetic and how do you recommend that customers wear/style your designs?
Fur and trims have a decorative element, which is very persistent in baroque aesthetics. The A/W 2013 line has a very wearable approach. We truly believe that the current lines in fashion look for a minimal approach and actually work with the body shapes instead of imposing too much volume or construction. We use fake fur apart from sheep.

It’s been awhile since I went to a Belle Sauvage catwalk show: what can we expect from the new season?
You saw our A/W 2010 collection. The collection is of course different but the spirit and attitude is the same. We have a very clear image on the Belle Sauvage woman. The style changes but the attitude stays consistent.

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Marianna Madriz.

Belle Sauvage can be bought online at Shop Belle Sauvage. The brand takes to the catwalk on Friday 15th February 2013 at Freemasons’ Hall. Watch out for our review of the show!

Belle Sauvage AW 2013 preview
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 preview image.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 8th, 2013 12:09 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Argentina, ,Belle Sauvage, ,Chris Neuman, ,Fashion Design, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Harry Williams, ,interview, ,Karina Jarv, ,Laura Hickman, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxembourg, ,Marianna Madriz, ,preview, ,Sara Gelfgren, ,Vicious East, ,Virginia Ferreira

Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Mina Tindle and Review of Debut Album Taranta

Mina Tindle 'To Carry Many Small Things' by Gilly Rochester
Mina Tindle ‘To Carry Many Small Things’ by Gilly Rochester.

Mina Tindle Taranta by Chloe Giordano
Mina Tindle’s Taranta by Chloe Giordano.

French folk pop singer Mina Tindle has a deceptively girly voice: sweet and high. But don’t be fooled: the songs on her debut album Taranta come with strong sentiments and instantly hummable melodies whilst videos reveal her to be a saucy minx. From the jaunty tones of To Carry Small Things to the softly rolling guitar pickings of Echo and the minimal chords of Henry, the whole album is a very individual delight. And her story is an inspiring one indeed.

Mina Tindle by Jamie Wignall.

How long have you been singing, and how did it all start? What has your musical journey to this point been?
I have always been singing in a way, because there are some great singers in my family. So I have been surrounded with voices all my life. Then some of my friends had bands, and invited me to sing along with them (Toy Fight, Orouni…). Step by step, I started writing songs of my own and recorded them at home. Then I released in 2009 a 7” with Sauvage Records, a French small and great Indie label. After that, I focused for years in the recording of Taranta, my first LP that just came out.

What do you think of the current contemporary French music scene? Do you feel a part of it or do you think most of your influences come from elsewhere and if so where?
I am not an expert of the current French scene. Still, I really love the work of bands like Francois and the Atlas Mountains, Arlt, Bertrand Belin, Maison Neuve, etc… But I have always been listening to different kinds of music; from American Indie pop to Brazilian music.

Mina Tindle by Nathalie Sanchez.

Mina Tindle by Jamie Wignall.

You also have Spanish roots – how did you come to be in France, and what have you kept of this part of your background?
I was born and raised in France. But a part of my family still lives in Spain. I need to go there to feel at home.

Mina Tindle by Charlie Rallings.

How did living in New York colour your creation of music?
I lived my NYC time under the sign of music: I was living above a bar at that time, where they had 3 concerts a night. I also met some great musicians over there and listened to a lot of music. I love the way American people embrace music. There is something really spontaneous about it.

mina tindle pola yell
You self-produced much of your material, how did you learn to do this and do you have any tips for others going down this route?
I did not have the choice at that time. But I had the chance to have met great people who helpt me out a lot with everything.

Mina Tindle by Adopted-Design
Mina Tindle by Adopted Design.

What else have you been doing over the two years that it has taken to produce Taranta? And what does the title refer to?
Some part-time jobs here and there, but mostly stressing out about the recordings. I also played a bunch of shows, on my own or with friends. Taranta refers to a traditional dance and music from South Italy. People used to say that women had been bitten by spiders and that explained, supposedly, why they needed to dance to make the poison go out of their body. Which was obviously wrong, but I loved what it says about hysteria and creation.

minatindle by Franck Loriou
Mina Tindle by Franck Loriou.

What do you most like to sing about?
I wish I could find some answers in music. And it sometimes happens. So basically, I love singing about something true, whether it is love, people, encounters, intuitions, sadness… It is pretty universal in the end.

mina-tindle-by-catherine-askew
Mina Tindle by Catherine Askew.

How did you come up with the name Mina Tindle?
It is a reference to the great movie Sleuth by Joseph L Mankiewicz, don’t ask me more: It’s a really long and not really interesting story.

mina tindle taranta album cover
What are you most excited about doing this year?
I hope to travel a lot with this record. And I am already thinking about a next one.

Taranta will be released on the 28th May on Believe Digital.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday May 22nd, 2012 5:13 pm

Categories ,Adopted Design, ,album, ,Arlt, ,Believe Digital, ,Bertrand Belin, ,Catherine Askew, ,Charlie Rallings, ,Chloe Giordano, ,Echo, ,folk, ,Franck Loriou, ,Francois and The Atlas Mountains, ,french, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Henry, ,interview, ,Jamie Wignall, ,Joseph L Mankiewicz, ,Maison Neuve, ,Mina Tindle, ,Nathalie Sanchez, ,new york, ,Orouni, ,review, ,Sauvage Records, ,Sleuth, ,Spanish, ,Taranta, ,To Carry Small Things, ,Toy Fight

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